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merlin

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Everything posted by merlin

  1. tofino: Had not heard that. Too bad...at least for the Wick...as it is my impression that the food and service really improved under his direction.
  2. As far as I am concerned the quality has not suffered. I was in Ottawa for three days last week and had dinner at Beckta twice. I have not been to Ottawa since Beckta opened so as a result, cannot comment on the results of their original chef having moved on but I certainly enjoyed my dinners prepared by the current one. On the night of my arrival I was cold and wind blown having walked up Kent to Nepean from my hotel. I was warmly greeted by the hostess Adrienne and was taken to their bar where I had requested to be seated rather than taking up a table since I was dining solo. I started with a glass of "Steve's Blend", a riesling chosen by sommelier/owner Stephen Beckta from wines produced by Cave Springs who are my favourite Canadian producer of this varietal. My appetizer was an open face ravioli of braised oxtail and escargot with sundried tomatoes, a fine dice of sauteed pears and Ermite blue cheese [from the monastery in Ste Benoit-du-Lac in Quebec's Eastern Townships] fondue. They call it, perhaps not surprisingly, "Snail and Tails". It initially seemed like a "curious" combination but was delicious. The crisp pieces of pear really added to the texture and taste. The only quibble I might have is that the ravioli was not as tender as I might prefer. I think gyoza wrappers may have been used rather than pasta. For my main I was leaning toward the salmon or sablefish but then got "talked into" the chicken by Mark who was bartending while "putting up" with me. I usually do not order chicken in a restaurant but this course reminded me that chicken done simply and well can be outstanding. Mind you, this was not particularly "simple". Pan roasted air-chilled chicken breast served with shaved black truffles over an oyster mushroom and squash risotto. The chicken was just done and the truffles were "intoxicating". With the chicken I had quite a good Russian River pinot noir from the Crane Canyon Vineyard. I really enjoyed my meal. The room itself is quite nice and early on was fairly busy for a Monday night. The staff were very friendly and accomodating in a casual but professional way. On my last night I decided to return. I had not made a reservation but I think I was the first one in that evening and again was seated up at the bar. This time I was served by Lisa. I decided on their house hot smoked salmon served with leeks, pea shoots, pesto and shaved bottarga over gnocchi. I did not know what bottarga was but Lisa explained it to me. Dried salted fish roe. It was quite nice and the dish itself rich. The gnocchi were nice soft "pillows" rather than the heavy kind one can be served elsewhere. My chenin blanc, again from Cave Springs, was delicious with the salmon. Even though I am heading out to Vancouver and Victoria next week-end I opted for the braised Pacific sablefish. It arrived in a delicious braising liquid complemented by pitted Kalamata olives, diced preserved lemon [this was a real nice addition], red onion and saffron over what was originally a crispy lentil cake. It softened up and became more flavourful as it absorbed the liquid. The fish itself was perfectly cooked, moist, flaking easily with its customary gentle flavour. Vancouver's C or Victoria's Brasserie L'Ecole or Cafe Brio will be hard pressed to better Ottawa's Beckta when it comes to this fish. This evening I decided to treat myself and had their cheese course along with a glass of dessert wine, chenin blanc from Vouvray and then some nice, nutty Madeira. I will definitely be returning to Beckta if I am back in the Ottawa area. The other night I tried Whalebone Oyster House up on Bank Street. Where Beckta was all soft colours and clean hardwood floors, Whalebone is positively "industrial". Lots of wood and red brick. Quite small with an open kitchen. I think this is where the chef who opened Beckta [his name escapes me] has resurfaced although he was not cooking this evening. I sat up at its bar and chatted with the owner Josh, who I undersand used to be at Toronto's Rodneys before returning home to Ottawa. I started with a half dozen good oysters from the east coast that were served on ice with lemon and a tray of various condiments including a first for me, a vinegar like shaker of Chivas Regal. There were also a number of west coast oysters but I prefer the flinty, salty taste and texture of those from the Atlantic. Their menu [in paper and on the chalkboard] consists of some raw offerings of salmon and tuna, five or six small plates and four or five big plates. I started with the salmon tartare which was delicious and rather than go the big plate route, opted for fried halibut cheeks and nice green salad with chevre. The other courses I saw go to other diners looked equally good. Fresh seafood with an Asian accent. A decent wine list with a number of good ones by the glass. I started with a Sancerre and finished off with some Chardonnay Musque from Cave Springs. This visit should have been sponsored by Cave Springs. Three good meals all in all.
  3. I thought "Alberta's" Robert Sulatyky had the highest placement for a Canadian chef. He apparently came in 4th in 1999. I know Michael Noble got considerable public acclaim in the original Iron Chef show. Did he compete in Bocuse D'Or as well? I use the term "Alberta's" advisedly given I think he was at Diva at the Met when he competed and is now I think in California, the Beverly Hills Hotel? I met his father, who is a Judge in Alberta, at a legal conference and did not make the connection until mid way through the morning and that was the end of the legal discussion as wine and food and cooking took over....as well they should! [smile] Regardless,well done to Mr. Jaeger. We tried to make reservations to go to the Pear Tree the last time we visited Vancouver but he was in Charlottetown PEI with the kitchen brigade likely competing for this opportunity.
  4. Would need Jamie Maw to sort out the "family trees" of the Fullers and Allards etc involved with various Earls', Joey's, Cactus Club, OPM...etc. Isn't Michael Noble and Earls' involved with the Bocuse D'Or this year? If that is true they too are in the upper echelon of food competitions. Not sure who is Canada's rep. Is it Scott Jaeger of Pear Tree who I assume is an independent? Saw it on one of their menus touting the wood fired boneless breast of chicken "of the month" or something similar. What is the point of this involvement? Who knows? Don't really care. I go to Earls', quite often as it turns out for a decent burger, some chicken wings and a bottle of good wine. Yes I could do better but my local Earls' is pretty good and I know what to expect and out is "suburbia" it is about as good as it gets without a $60 cab [to and from] ride to better restaurants downtown. Is it Casual Fine Dining? Well dining is always casual to me but fine dining, not really. It fills the void and I usually have a pleasant time with the staff. So far it beats their Calgary competitor Moxies. Tried their entree into the higher end steakhouse area, The Chop a few weeks ago. Ok, not great but pretty good. I think that is what one gets in the area of so called CFD.
  5. From what I am assuming is their own or a related web-site, exec chef Chris Mills and a "team" of 19 others from various outlets of Joey's http://joey.gastown.radiant.net/aboutus/awards
  6. Thank you for the link Barolo. I do not disagree with her in some respects. There is no question that the Canadian wine industry have some good PR flaks. If for example Mission Hill wins a Chardonnay competition it certainly does get reported. No question the Canadian wine industry does "trumpet" these successes. But does anyone take the vast majority of these competitions seriously? I sure do not. It is like being impressed by yet another bottle from OZ which is has more medals from winning competitions that a Soviet war veteran. Mind you competitions may be like the way recommendations from Wine Spectator are dealt with. Many reps and merchants "slag" the "Wine Dictator" but if one of their wines is mentioned in WS they let you know. I am not sure that she is correct is using such broad brush strokes in describing purported Canadian defensiveness. I think in large part Canadians are reticent to shill Cdn products and are reticent..understandably...to pay the increasingly higher prices being sought and apparently paid for the better bottles when there is so much competition from offshore. There may be persons in the industry who overstate Canada's importance in the world of wine but I have not met many members of the general public who do. I do agree about the complaint relating to Product of Canada, Bottled in Canada. There should be better labels to make it clear that this is foreign plonk. Mind you I don't buy that wine and do not know many, if any people who try to buy Canadian who do.
  7. After posting my reply to Makanmakan and Sushi Cat within the thread discussing Greek food I thought that rather than hijack that discussion I should repost here with my request for suggestions. We are going to be in Vancouver for the week-end early in March and then head over to Victoria for a few days. We have Victoria pretty well planned due to past favourites and some of the new ones I have noted in the newest edition of EAT which arrived a couple of weeks ago. However, we have not spent a lot of time in Vanouver of late though due to this site and others are pretty familiar with Vancouver dining but not necessarily the locations and proximity to where we will be staying. This is what I wrote and inquired about in the previously mentioned thread: makanmakan: Your comment about the Costa Del Sol reminds me of honeymooning in Portugal. Part of the time we were in Lagos in the Algarve. I can still "smell" those sardines being grilled streetside just off the wharf in little hibatchi's. Served just as described. Sushicat: That is what I had thought given this thread and others. Too bad. I sure wish there was a place to find simple grilled fish even if not Greek. My wife and I are heading out to celebrate a friend's 50th birthday so our first night will be at the Atlantic Trap and Grill in Yaletown. Not my choice but a bunch of us used to live in the Maritimes before heading West in search of fame and fortune...they did...I got debt [smile]....it should be a good "shaker" ..."some good" as they would say [grin] Once I recover from the inevitable hangover that comes from drinking too much dark rum and Moosehead Ale we will be thinking about eating lunch and supper on Saturday and Sunday before heading over to Victoria for a few more days. We thoroughly enjoyed West, Cin Cin, Joe Fortes, Rain City Grill and Cru during our most recent visits. We usually end up in the North Shore with the same folks who are hosting the birthday party so have been to Gusto Corsi, La Regalade, Beachside when it was open and The Beach House at Dundarave Pier. This visit I think we would prefer to stay around where we are. We have never tried the Bins nor the Guu's, Hapa Itzakaya and the like but my wife is not particularly adventuresome when it comes to food. Any suggestions for the area around Seymour and West Hastings? We are staying at the Delta Suites in that area. This post has been edited by merlin: Today, 11:28 AM
  8. makanmakan: Your comment about the Costa Del Sol reminds me of honeymooning in Portugal. Part of the time we were in Lagos in the Algarve. I can still "smell" those sardines being grilled streetside just off the wharf in little hibatchi's. Served just as described. Sushicat: That is what I had thought given this thread and others. Too bad. I sure wish there was a place to find simple grilled fish even if not Greek. My wife and I are heading out to celebrate a friend's 50th birthday so our first night will be at the Atlantic Trap and Grill in Yaletown. Not my choice but a bunch of us used to live in the Maritimes before heading West in search of fame and fortune...they did...I got debt [smile]....it should be a good "shaker" ..."some good" as they would say [grin] Once I recover from the inevitable hangover that comes from drinking too much dark rum and Moosehead Ale we will be thinking about eating lunch and supper on Saturday and Sunday before heading over to Victoria for a few more days. We thoroughly enjoyed West, Cin Cin, Joe Fortes, Rain City Grill and Cru during our most recent visits. We usually end up in the North Shore with the same folks who are hosting the birthday party so have been to Gusto Corsi, La Regalade, Beachside when it was open and The Beach House at Dundarave Pier. This visit I think we would prefer to stay around where we are. We have never tried the Bins nor the Guu's, Hapa Itzakaya and the like but my wife is not particularly adventuresome when it comes to food. Any suggestions for the area around Seymour and West Hastings? We are staying at the Delta Suites in that area.
  9. Steve: Nice to hear from you. Our past two trips to the island we have attempted without success to visit Alderlea. Mind you we did as a result see some beautiful country in and around Maple Bay despite having to brake hard for a couple of beautiful bucks who left into our path. I will have to get better directions for the winery next time. I really enjoy their pinot noir, especially the reserve and their copper hued salmon-berry coloured pinto gris. In fact I prefer the latter my other BC favourite of this type of pinot gris, the Kettle Valley from the Okanagan. Also have enjoyed their Heritage Hearth, one half bottle left stached away in the basmt. How is the pub going in Duncan? We are out in March and may rent a car and drive up.
  10. Is there anything in Vancouver similar to the fish taverna's I remember from Montreal's Park Ave or Avenue de Parc or is it Robert Bourassa?....during my "mispent youth"...cannot keep up with Quebec linguistic politics? I remember good basic meals from the Symposium or Dionysus etc. Milos is currently the "big name" with varying reviews. What I am looking for is fresh fish grilled over charcoal seasoned with olive oil and lemon. Most of the Greek restaurants here in Edmonton tend to be the traditional "western Canadian take" on Greek...souvlaki, lamb shoulder, dolmathes, keftedes, spanokopita, saganaki etc...essentially what you see on Food TV's "Family Restaurant". Hoping that the coast will have more on offer. Am out in early March and any suggestions would be appreciated.
  11. I wholeheartedly endorse the suggestion of Brasserie l'Ecole. It is a regular stop for us during trips to Victoria as is Cafe Brio which I also recommend. At the risk of "offending" [smile] "the real Sparky" who ventures to this list from time to time the only downside is that there are some similarities between the two which is fine for us but you may want something different. The Rosemeade was very good the one time we have gone, just about a year ago. I have heard very complementary things about Paprika but to date despite many visits to the coast have not gone. We find with limited time and wanting to revisit popular favourites our "dining dance card" gets filled up pretty quickly. Let us know what you discover as we'll be heading out that way at the beginning of March.
  12. Nope. Tell them to turn the covered wagon around. Nothing here. It is still campfire beans, cowboy coffee and whatever meat a mishap on the cattle drive delivered.... Just kidding. As a former Montrealer I can attest that things in the culinary world are booming as is everything else in C-Town. I do not live there but visit from time to time and have many friends and some family in the area. It may not have the "history" in the cooking world but it certainly has people who are prepared to invest and take a chance and others prepared to spend on good food. I am astonished on visits to see how busy Calgary bars and restaurants are even early in the week. Yes, you are always going to get those from the East...usually Montreal and Toronto who spend their time complaining that the West is not this or not that or you cannot get this or that...those who stop whining and get out and enjoy themselves usually do. What type of food did your parents enjoy in Montreal? What restaurants? I grew up in the east end so my tastes were a tad more pedestrian than my more "well heeled" friends. Magnon's [road trip], Schwartz', Montreal Pool Room, Slovenia Meat Market, Trattoria dai Baffoni on Dante, Elio's, Rib'n Reef, ...places like that. On a recent trip back "home" I enjoyed Club Chasse et Peche, Au Pied de Cochon, Feireirra's and yes, again, Schwartz'. There are a lot of good places to dine at in Calgary. To name but a few. River Cafe on Prince's Island. Divino Wine and Cheese on Stephen's Avenue and its neighbours Belevedere, Murietta's Grill, Teatro, Centini. Off in Inglewood that Kloom mentioned there is a wonderful Italian restaurant called Capo where chef di Gennaro from Naples is doing an outstanding job after having moved from Il Sogno in Bridgeland. Sorry Kloom, I think Capo may have replaced Istanbul in that same space. Across the river just north of downtown in Kensington I can highly recommend Muse. Hey, head up a few minutes further and they can even get their fill of bagels from "Wayne's Bagels" which are close but admittedly not exactly the same as my favourites from St. Viateur or those the rest of the family preferred from Fairmount. The Living Room and Brava Bistro on 16th Avenue offer upscale eclectic fare in a more lounge like setting. There is a lot of fine dining in Calgary. Let us know what your family are interested in and I am sure that someone will have suggestions although the Calgarian participation here of late has been not as active as certainly Vancouver.
  13. No kidding. Congrats. West will be even more "special" now. Classy move by the folks at the neighboring table.
  14. barolo: I cannot think of anything that I have had during walks [we usually stay at the Delta near the Johnson Street Bridge] to Spinnaker's that stood out apart from the beer which was the primary purpose for going there in the first place. Last trip in November my wife had a monstrous order of natchos...yes, not gastropub while I had a nice plate of smoked fish as I tried to pretend it was still summer with some "heffe-weizen" [sp?] and "tasters" of Averil Creek pinot gris and pinot noir. We have never taken Matt R's advice and eaten downstairs, maybe next time. Usually stick to pretty non-exotic fare like the standard fish and chips and/or ploughman's lunch and the like. But again, the reason we go there is the beer...and now the wine as they do have a very good wine list which surprised me with its size and variety including the quirky and NOT cheap Venturi-Schultz that I know James Kendal features on his wine list and they still do at the Jasper Park Lodge due at least in part to his time there. Have to love that edive salad at Brasserie don't you? Nice combination of vinaigrette, mustard with the drippings from the lardons complemented by the hazelnuts. Marc's wine service is always a treat. We were acquainted with some basic, good valued reds on our last visit including a minervois that we quite enjoyed. However, upon returning to Alberta with our "find" noted that Wine Access was trumpeting the St. Esmeulie as the best French and overall best red in their article on the best wines available in Canada under $20 or $25. Unfortunately, although I tracked down two stores in Calgary that had been ordering it in on a somwhat exclusive basis, they could not be convinced to ship some up north.
  15. This thread is beginning to read like that Bud Light commercial when the fellow orders the "surprise" only to have it "surprise" him all over his face....
  16. wildebeest/Irish Girl: Thank you for the "links"...maybe matters are not as "black and white" or is that "brown and brown and brown" [?] as Ms. Gill's article might suggest...sounds like he has quite the sense of humour Merlin ...now back in cold and snowy Alberta pining for more of Sean Brennan's confit with white beans, braised greens and especially the venison and brandied cherry terrine.
  17. barolo: Although not on the "Empress End" of the inner harbour the Blue Crab at the Coast Hotel offers probably the best view of the inner harbour while dining with all due respects to Spinnaker's and the Ocean Pointe's LURE. It would not be my first or even fourth for that matter suggestion as far as food but it is pretty solid albeit dated. However the view is outstanding, the seating comrortable...I think your relative would enjoy it.
  18. "....your experiences are not without company. HERE is a thread from a few years back. "C", like Feenie, seems to be a favorite whipping-boy around here." Beat me to the "punch" Daddy-A...when I first saw the title I wondered if "Cabrales" was back
  19. and if the food and ambience were not enough check out their wine prices especially with regard to B.C. options like the plain and striped labels from Blue Mountain
  20. Zucchini Mama, thank you very much for the reply and especially for the easy to understand "link". Much obliged.
  21. I just had a quick glance at Panache's menu. Seems to me they are trying to fill the high-end steak house niche a la Gotham and the like. Besides the chophouse in the Marriott does Victoria have competition...or the demand for that matter... in this area? Don't thing the Keg is in the same league. Barclays perhaps? Ever since my in-laws left Victoria...alass no more free "room and board"...we have never gone back there to indulge my father-in-law's Albertan taste for beef rather than fish. Wasn't it a Hy's years ago? Matt, I agree with the comment about the $7 baked spud and peppers but that seems to be the formula everywhere. We have a Ruth's Chris franchise opening up...supposedly, lots of rumours of cost overruns and construction nightmares...in the early fall here in Edmonton. Their menu is even more expensive complete with super-heated "grills", expensive "roasts" and high priced sides. I will be interested to see how it makes out in Edmonton. Personally I do not see it making a go. Not enough money or American business travellers to take advantage of name recognition. I would have thought they would have opened first in Calgary to take on Caesars, Vintage, Smugglers, etc with all the petro-dollars flowing around. The one thing have going for it is that they appearently have hired Brian Welsh who James Kendall and the "Mighty Q" will know...ex- of Claude's "back in the day", The Westin's Carvery and more recently The Hotel Mac to run the front end. He will bring instant credibility and attract all those diners he has served over the years. Personally, I do not think it will work but will likely try it at least the one time. It is just not my idea of dining. The same thing applies to Victoria, if my non -seafood eating wife is so inclined we will likely go to Brasserie or Brio where both of us can get what we want even if she goes back yet again to Marc's/Sean's steak frites. On Panache's menu I did like the suggestion of fennel-horseradish encrusted halibut if they can get the crust crisp without overcooking the fish. What is it about butter poached lobster. It seems to be everywhere nowadays on this type of menu. I have never had it. Boiled, steamed then finished by poaching in butter? How is it prepared?
  22. Thanks for the reminder - time to renew my subscription...cheque is on the way Gary/Shelora
  23. merlin

    Pan

    Paul B. I am really not all that familiar with Indian food apart from the regular options like curries, naan, tandoori meats and the like. What is "pan"? I am curious after reading your description.
  24. In Saskatoon I would recommend Calories in the Broadway area and a poster here, Junior who formerly worked there has opened his own spot and should be able to provide more details. I will let Junior "toot his own horn". Our last trip was straight down Highway 16 from "Edmonchuk" to "Saskabush" to the Veterinary School and hospital with a very sick golden so unfortunately all I wanted to do was get there and get back so cannot assist with good spots en route.
  25. ddueck: We used to go to the Wickanninish Restaurant when we visited the area. Unfortunately now that we usually venture west after Cdn. Thanksgiving it and the adjoining Parks Canada Interpretative Centre are closed. I fondly recollect the beautiful view and eagles. One nite during dinner we saw an eagle plunge into the ocean sinkings its talons into a fish. It was unable to take flight. Good thing the foundation is solid as anyone who was not right up to the windows left there seats and came over to watch. It essentially "swam" over to a rock, pulled its "dinner" up onto the same and ate as we returned to our meals. Our experience was that the dining was very "hit and miss" but pretty good the last couple of times we were there. Mind you, as you suggested the view is spectacular.
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