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Vojta

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  1. Hello What continuous tempering machine should I buy? It is very difficult to find non biased info. Sales persons just dont know. And I dont know chocolatiers who had experience with multiple machines (and can fairly compare)... Personally I worked with Selmi and Pomati, here are my findings. Pomati big plus for ease of emptying with an emptying spout + reverse pumping function (also prevents chocolate to harden inside). Small pluses, I guess: Night mode can be set with active agitation intervals. You can set the cooling point temperature by yourself (for example 26, 27 °C On the other hand with Selmi you cant set it neither see it). Big minus: Scraper is not heated (enough) and can not be attached under an angle. Frustrating minus: Touch display is a step back Minus (that Selmi might suffer from too?): when I left moulds on the heated vibrating plate for a long time, it melted the chocolate. The whole table gets heated, not just the metal bars. Selmi lacks everything said about Pomati above. Howeve has heated adjustable scraper, buttons. Newer Selmis have removable and washable Archimedes screw. Didn't try it, not sure if it's any useful. I don't have enough experience to value my findings in the long run and would appreciate a little discussion. Also can not compare the longevity, tempering quality etc. In my chocolate bubble everyone uses Selmi though. Bonus Q: for what capacity should I go? 20-30 kg or larger?
  2. I did edit my post. Added (6) - that is a classic dome. For me the difference is that dome (6) has curving sides all the way from the bottom. (3), (4) have a hemisphere sitting on a cylinder with straight (parallel) sides, the curve starts higher up. The wet circle is too big of a issue for me. I have about 15% bonbons stuck in the mould unable to unmold without freezer. Any tips? Yep, exactly. Other way is a depositor if you have the volumes and budget.
  3. No, no: 31€/mould includes the tooling and the 3D modeling. I divaded the fee by 100 pieces and added it. Note it is from 2022. I agree. The 40-cavity molds have no edges and require a piping bag or there is a mess. It could be solved with a depositor though. However I wonder if such a density of cavities doesn't inhibit cooling. I usualy have few bonbons stuck inside CW2207. Maybe could you share photos of all of them. I like that Cabrellon 6024 has one more row, however the weight is probably about 9 g only (comparing Jungsted and CW2483) To the list I add: 1 Hemispheres 9 g for 30 mm diameter, 13 g for 35 mm diameter, 17+ g for 40 mm diameter 2 Pavoni PC5046: 4x6 layout, 10 g, 33 mm diameter x 13 mm tall - it is a 'hemisphere' with a smaller curve, spectacular size 3 CW2483: 4x7 layout, 10.3g, 30 mm diameter x 18 mm tall - it is the same as Jungsted, like hemisphere on a stand, I fancy its standard 30 mm diameter 4 Martellato MA1927: 4x7 layout, 11 g, 26 mm diameter x 23 mm tall - it is a hemisphere with straight cylinder underneath, basically like Jungsted, just much taller 5 Cylinders: 10 g, 29 mm x 14 mm or 12.5 g, 30 mm x 16 mm - I don't know how to mould these, they are always stuck. I guess it is the opposite to your problem? 6 Dome CW2471: 4x7 layout, 15 g, 29 mm diameter x 24 mm tall - dome shape with concave sides, everyone is using this shape I want 11-14 g. I want a hemisphere with slight bottom, because hemispheres tend to flip. I would love something between 2 and 3. My other moulds are 30 mm diameter, so makes sense to keep the size, doesnt it?. I have to say I am tempted by (2) or something with a diameter of 35 mm. That would truly stand out from competitors. And if I could temper like a god, I would go for CW1754 Guys I would be thankful if you could help me to mould (5). It is always stuck (there is a 'wet' circle in the middle). The flat top is too thin. This is great talking haha. Thank you!
  4. Do you think it is a technique or tool worth trying? I believe there has to exist some stamping/stenciling technique that can be actually applied to 50+ molds while being effective. Unfortunately, I didn't find it yet 😅
  5. For everyone: What is all the information on shelf life based on? Everyone is talking about Aw, but how do you know how long can Aw = 0.82 or Aw = 0.88 last? Do you actually measure with Aw meter or just estimate based on calculation? Little explanation. I did some test with Aw meter, actual microbiology tests and others. The Aw vs shelf life tables (general internet, Melissa Coppel, Callebaut) were absolutely off. To me it seems no one really understands. And the term "Aw" became popular in online courses market. @ChristianD congrats. This is amazing and had to take you hundreds of hours. If I can be curious where do you source the information? I have a prototype of the same thing in excel, quite motivating to finish this project
  6. Hey @Jim D., very interesting topic as I am on the search for the best mold atm. Could you write a comparison between these molds and Include chef Jugsted's signiture - I am thinking about this one or its 30 mm alternative from ChocolateWorld. Btw I have the flat CW 2207, I can make some test for you if you want. I purchased it bcs it is the only mold which has 40 cavities/mold (apart from hemisphere). I didnt know about the flat top though and I dont like it. My quote for custom PC molds from ChocolateWorld from 2020 was: 31-38 €/ mold when ordering 100 pieces. It is more difficult to fill the bonbon on the right? Is that the 17g Cabrellon, what are the dimensions please?
  7. Thanks for sharing your experience, it is lovely to see. Wish I could be there and learn too. The candied oranges or flower painting using that weird silicone thing is so interesting. Btw where do you use ? Isn't ganache too viscous for it?
  8. Very important thing, I forgot to say last time! I was made aware of it by my friend after giving free not painted samples: the painted bonbons taste worse than natural ones. I tested it myself and it is true. The coating of CCB gives a waxy/ tasteless feel. Compared to plain chocolate which melts better and testes sweet. Do you observe the same with your bonbons? The CCB is expensive and I was thrifty with it, yet still the downgrade in taste for the sake of appearance is here. Thank you very much @pastrygirl for sharing pictures. Looks colorful even on dark. Thank you @Kerry Beal for taking the time to dig the info for me! According to my calculation, Power flowers are slightly more expensive then making your own CCB, but almost 2x cheaper compared to ready CCB. Very promising. (Based on your post: 16 flowers/200g CB).
  9. Thank you everyone! I finally managed to get great colors. The solution was to use much more coloring in homemade CCB (I tested with Jim D's method) and the second white opaque layer (made with white coloring, not just white CH). I like to hear that. How many flowers do you use per 100 g of CB? I was thinking about buying powerflowers, but couldnt calculate the cost, since idk the dilution. Does it mean Roxy & Rich is opaque enough or do you mix something in? I tried mixing white with green or yellow, to safe time with the white bacground CCB, but it was unsuccessful and I needed to do white 2nd coat anyway. Would love to know because that cuts spraying time in half (I am more concerned about avoiding CB clouds :D).
  10. Hello I struggle with my colors lacking brightness and saturation (unless I mould in white CH). I've read this entire thread and I would like to ask some follow up questions. I will be so happy to hear from your experience. - Is a white coat after color coat necessary? Is there a way how to skip it and half the time spent spraying? - How do I know if my colored cocoa butter is opaque or transparent when shopping for it? - With what do yoi do white base coat with? I tried 1:1 CB:white CH, still dark bonbons. And reccomended titanium dioxide (white coloring) is now banned. Bonus: do you buy or make your own colored CB? Whats the best way how I can give some of my knowledge back? Thanks for having me here
  11. How do you shell 100 molds using a melter (like Mol d'Art)? I am unable to achieve nice continuous work flow when shelling, and I am really unable to shell more than 20-30 molds. How does your workflow look like: Do you pour (drip) back inside the melter?, how often do you reheat/ remelt?, what temp you set your machine on?, how much chocolate/ how many molds?, how many molds you can shell, etc. When shelling, my chocolate is unacceptably more viscous even after 4 molds, making me to stop shelling after 8-12 molds completely. What I tried and didnt work for me: working with 2-3 kg CH adding extra CB setting the machine to 35 °C (95 F) or even 40 °C diluting with untempered CH All helped slightly, but I always end up in a state where I am above the working temp (ie higher than 32 °C (90F) for dark CH), yet still thicker than after tempering. I've managed to survive shelling more than 300 molds like this (over multiple days), but it's so frustrating that I am thinking of pouring out the chocolate outside my melter or stopping to use it. PS: room temp is 20-22 °C (68-36 F); I use Callebaut CH; I don't work slow use a ladle and scraper and its fast; I use CHWorldAntwerp 21 kg model with 6 liters or 13 liters stainless steel insert. PPS: the machine is temperature control is terrible, but I managed to work with 1 thermometer in chocolate and second in the machine
  12. Didn't the bonbons jumped out, tilted or something? I was thinking about piping (filling) on a vibration table, bcs I usually face a little hill in my bonbon. This would allow me to make perfectly thin bottoms :3
  13. Thanks Pete. Would never thought about pouring liquid into a ring. Will give it a try!
  14. Wow manifique job! How did you get soft custard out of mould?
  15. I think it is a risk easily. To cook the custard you need about 83 °C, while most recipes call for baking in a water bath in 160 °C oven. I steam cooked mine (thus the temp was 100 °C) and it was still enough to overcook. Might be just mine mistake though Thanks for letting me know. I need to test the texture differences
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