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jeffj

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Everything posted by jeffj

  1. Here's a quick summary...all of this is was split between the two of us: 1:25PM Sunday: Harold's 1/4 Dark Dinner, Hot Sauce, Pineapple-Passion Soda 3:05PM Sunday: SuperDawg and a Whoopski Dawg, Root-Beer 6:00PM Sunday: Trio TDF 10:10AM Monday: Al's Big Beef-juicy-hot, Fries, Cup of Cheese, Lemonade 11:30AM Monday: Gino's East - Small Spinach Deep Dish, Diet Coke 2:40PM Monday: Johnnie's Beef-Dipped-Sweet, Italian Ice -j
  2. REPOSTING EARLIER MESSAGE: Trio has utilized several iterations of vapor dishes in the past. Esentially, these dishes consist of carefully selected aromatics that surround the edible portion of the dish. In this case, the aromatics were hay, pumpkin, etc. and the actual dish consisted of pheasant with an apple cider nage. When presented at the table, hot water is poured over the aromatics and a wonderful aroma rises from the table. As you eat, the scented vapor should enhance your experience with the food. You don't actually eat any of the aromatics. For both of my TDF meals at Trio, I have left completely full...not uncomfortably so, but very satiated. And I’m a relatively big eater. From my understanding of the description of this dish, I believe you are correct. The trout is slit open before it's ready to spawn. $350 for two TDF menus $200 for two wine pairings $21 for three bottles of water $6 for two coffees $62.50 for tax + the tip of your choice.
  3. So, here's the story...my girlfriend (Alyssa) and I visited Chicago for four days back in May and we really loved many of the distinctive foods of the city. But most of all, we were completely wowed by the art that Grant Achatz is creating in the kitchen of Trio. We found ourselves with little vacation time but a yearning to return and visit the kitchen table at Trio. What would we do? We definitely wanted to make it out before the subfreezing temperatures and snow overtook the city (yes, we're wimpy native Californians). So we decided to try and cram as much as possible into a one-day trip from the Bay Area. In just over 25 hours, not only did we eat the TDF at Trio but we also ate at Harold’s Fried Chicken, Al’s and Johnnie’s Italian Beef, SuperDawg, and Gino’s East. Needless to say that by the end of the trip we were absolutely stuffed. But the focus of this post is Trio...so let's get to it. Upon arrival at 6PM, we were promptly shown to the table, made our water selection, and began one of the great culinary adventures in this country. (We'll step through course by course and I'll throw in some candid shots from the kitchen as we go along.) Sunday, November 16, 2003 Trio Kitchen Table Noilly Prat Dry Vermouth Pear-Eucalyptus-Olive Oil Noilly Prat Dry Vermouth Eucalyptus gelee, Anjou pear poached in white wine, and olive oil. This was a great amuse for a number of reasons. It utilized some intense flavors without being overpowering. And it was successful in opening up the palette. Also, it had proper sizing for an amuse...a small bite that provided immediate satisfaction. I much prefer this small bite style to some of the larger ramekin based amuse presentations which often end up being closer in size to an actual course. What I loved with this was the blending of herbaceous notes with the dominantly sweet flavor. As the consumption progressed the oil began to take over and provide a smooth, velvety finish. Also of note was the outstanding pairing with the Noilly Prat Dry Vermouth. The beverage provided a compelling continuation of flavors from the amuse which was aided by the aroma of a pear garnish. Aubry Brut Champagne with Quady Vya Pacific Sea Urchin Puree of orange rind, licorice, peppers Aubry Brut Champagne with Quady Vya What struck me with this dish was how much the uni played a supporting role, flavor-wise, to the orange puree (an unexpectedly dominant flavor), the licorice foam, and the peppers. Two weeks previous, we had uni with conch at the Fifth Floor in San Francisco and in that dish the uni dominated with a briny ocean flavor. However, in this dish, the sea urchin seemed much lighter and more delicate...its flavor not commanding in the least. So I felt its role was more geared toward providing a rich and creamy texture to the other flavors. However, looking back, perhaps I did not completely "get" this dish. Puree of Chestnuts Quince, bacon, potato ice cream Pojer & Sandri "Palai" Muller Thurgau, Vigneti delle Dolomiti, Italy 2001 This was simply outstanding. It's a dish where many different flavors come together (somewhat unexpectedly) and form a thoroughly dynamic whole. I simply referred to it as a savory ice cream sundae. The chestnuts provided a creamy and earthy base, the bacon consume added a rich smokiness, and the quince provided glimpses of sweetness. The potato ice cream provided a coolness that contrasted well with the other warm components and which provided an additional textural dimension. I think this dish became more and more successful as everything mixed and melted together. It was savory, rich, and sweet all at once. Also included were a small cube of bay gelee and a celery garnish. Very inspiring and creative. Tempura of Rock Shrimp Vanilla, cranberry, Meyer lemon Cusumano "Cubia" Insolia, Sicily 2001 The really unique thing about this dish was the aroma that wafted out of the glass as it was presented at the table…the unmistakable scent of cotton candy. Don't ask me how this was; just take my word for it. The diner is given directions to grasp the vanilla bean from the top and to dangle the entire piece above one's mouth. Then you are asked to consume the tempura ball in a single bite, stripping it off the bean as one might pluck a grape from its vine. It's also recommended that you enjoy the scent of the vanilla bean as you do this. It sounded a little unorthodox but it was an amusing way of engaging the diner. The exterior was crisp and definitely had a freshly fried scent to it. The interior was molten and warm and had a huge punch of tangy lemon flavor that was mildly tempered by the sweetness of the cranberries. While I felt that the lemon was a bit overpowering, Alyssa felt that the rock shrimp held up to the strong flavors and provided a pleasant briny aspect. But we both agreed that the shrimp was perfectly cooked and also added a textural dimension. From our perspective, it was an interesting play on the traditional pairing of fried shrimp and lemon wedges, turning it inward upon itself and including the lemon within the fried casing. Spice Water A small shot of liquid infused with peppercorns, star anise, Thai long peppers, and black truffle that was topped with hazelnut foam. The diner is asked not to shoot this in the traditional sense, but to sip the entire contents in one continuous motion letting the entire beverage wash across your palette. It had a very refreshing effect and was surprisingly mild in flavor. From the description, I had expected that it might be a little more potent. Star anise and pepper flavors were easily identifiable, but I wasn't able to pinpoint the truffle. The hazelnut foam added a bit of richness and earthiness to both the taste and the nose. Black Truffle Explosion Pretty much everything has already been said about this classic. It's about as close as any dish comes to being crowned a signature dish at Trio. Once again it was enjoyable however the truffle flavor was not quite as pronounced as I had previously remembered and the internal temperature of the truffle/black tea infusion may have been a bit cooler. (Though, I will admit that I let it sit on the table for about a minute as I photographed it...so I'm most likely to blame for this.) But in the end, this dish is always an outstanding little bite. Elysian Fields Farm Lamb Chanterelle mushrooms, coffee, catmint Umathum Zweigelt, Burgenland, Austria 2001 Wow, there's a lot going on in this dish and thankfully it was pulled off very well. You are asked to start the dish by enjoying the spoonful of fried onions and coffee crème reduction. This definitely set up the dish and prepared the palette for the richness that was to come. And it also established a call back to the caramel mushroom coffee flan that rested under the lamb slices. The lamb was incredibly tender, pooled in a fabulously sweet yet salty lamb reduction and was especially enjoyable paired with the cippolini onion. The chanterelles added a rich buttery aspect that went a long way toward rounding out the fullness of the dish. And while mint was included in this dish, I failed to taste much trace of this traditional pairing. However, that was of little consequence...the dish was a great success regardless. Tenderloin of Venison Banana, celeriac, malted barley Europvin Falset "Laurona", Monsant, Spain 2000 This venison comes from New Zealand where, evidently, it roams the land without the threat of any predators. In theory, less adrenaline in the animal means more tender and tasty meat. I don't know how much of a roll this played but the meat was very succulent. This dish was another winner. Not being a big fan of celery flavor, I still enjoyed what the celeriac brought to this dish in the form of supporting flavors. I loved the malted barley and I think the earthy aspect paired well conceptually and practically with the venison. The banana introduced a hint of sweetness that was unusual but pleasing. "Cheese 'n Cracker" Again, this course is one of the few other stalwarts on the Trio menu. However, it is now being served later in the menu. Simple yet fun. Had a great crunchy exterior and a liquid interior of sharp Wisconsin cheddar. Alyssa remembered the interior being a bit warmer on our last visit, but it seemed okay to me. "Salad" Red wine vinaigrette We love this dish. It really does epitomize what Chef Achatz's cuisine is all about. It's playful and intriguing and it really gets diners thinking about flavor vehicles and how tried and true flavors can sometimes be reinvigorated by presenting them in new and exciting forms. And it just plain tastes good. (Who knows where the next generation of "salad" may lead…I can't help but envision chefg going "Willy Wonka" on us and concocting "salad" gum.) Pushed Foie Gras Dolga crabapples, honey gelee Bechtolsheimer Petersberg Beerenauslese, Ernst Bertz, Rheinhessen 1999 Amazing dish. My consumption of this encompassed two phases...my first few bites were comprised of the honey gelee and the foie gras alone. And I admit that I loved the pairing so much that I almost didn't want to include the apple sorbet into my next few bites. The insanely rich foie coupled with the naturally sweet honey was such a pure and satisfying flavor combination. Adding the apple into the mix completely transformed the dish into a pseudo apple pie rendition with the foie providing the buttery flavor reminiscent of a real pie. A few salt crystals on top contrasted the sweetness and made the dish that much stronger. An apple crisp and chervil complete as garnish. Mountain Huckleberry Soda Five flavors gelled This was the first of several progression style dishes that Trio loves to serve and that I love to eat. Rather than focusing on a theme as a whole, the concept of these progressions involves the examination of flavor pairings revolving around a core ingredient. In this case a huckleberry soda is to be paired one at a time with five gelees. They included: butternut squash, sage, smoked salt, chocolate, and toasted pine nut. That is the suggested order of consumption (from left to right). These are all very different flavors so it's immediately intriguing that they all pair well with huckleberry. The butternut squash provided a smooth and creamy aspect. The sage was fragrant and herbal. The smoked salt was the most unexpected taste...and for some reason reminded us of pork (probably invoking memories of kalua pork). The chocolate pairing was reminiscent of a chocolate truffle. And the pine nut was kind of hard to taste coming after the more powerful chocolate flavor. None of the pairings stopped me in my tracks but it was enjoyable to experience how sweet, salty, herby, and earthy all inter-relate around a single flavor. Pineapple-Mustard Nice melding of flavors between the two sides of this frozen lozenge as you rotate it in your mouth. I think the critical addition to this course is the few sprinkles of salt that were perched on top. The salt enhanced the flavors of both the pineapple and the mustard and made everything "pop" more. Michigan Brook Trout Roe Ginger, soy, papaya Fukucho "Moon on the Water" Junmai Ginjo Sake, Hiroshima Prefecture This golden trout roe is supplied to the restaurant through a friend of the chef. It's harvested prematurely in order to keep the shell of the roe as soft as possible. Layered from the bottom up were papaya, ginger, soy, and finally the trout roe. The roe was definitely great quality, soft and delicate...bursting with salty goodness. I made sure to eat each bite with the roe side landing downward onto the tongue in order to maximize the flavor perception and enjoyment. I can't help but make note of an incident that occurred midway through this course. I won't go into details because I think that those are between the chef and his staff. But evidently, things were getting a bit loose and a mistake was made in moving some dishes through the kitchen. The normally mild mannered Chef Achatz stepped up and made it perfectly clear to everyone in that kitchen that elementary mistakes such as this were unacceptable. And sure enough, the atmosphere that had been a little buzzy and a little frenetic suddenly became focused and determined. Not to mention the fact, you could hear a pin drop for a long while after that. Eventually as the evening began to wind down, everyone once again loosened up. But the reason I cite this incident is the remarkable fact that at such a relatively young age, Chef Achatz truly does have complete control of the kitchen and also has the utmost respect from his employees. In addition, it illustrates how truly passionate he is about what the kitchen delivers (as he should be.) I think everyone realized that they could have been a bit sharper...and that there's really no other choice in order to remain at the top of the nation's dining scene. If anything, I'm sure they felt terrible for letting the chef down. Puffed Lobster Scrambled & Grated Lobster Coral, Grapefruit, lemongrass After previously reading about this dish, I had expected the grapefruit flavor to be more pronounced that it actually was. Because of its size and texture the chip dominated the dish. But what was really successful was the awesome lobster broth pooled right below the chip. It was sweet, smooth, and salty with the strong essence of lobster. I would suggest pairing each bite of the chip with a sip of the broth. Also, I think that the form and visual aspect to this dish is really top notch. Alba White Truffle Tagliatelle, Parmesan Francois Villard "Contours de DePoncins" Viognier, Rhone 2001 My eyes lit up when I saw this one. It’s truffle season (albeit a relatively poor one this year) and I was hopeful we might get a glimpse of this heavenly tuber. This was an off the menu treat for the kitchen table. Even with the avant-garde philosophy at Trio, when you have a source ingredient of this quality, you owe it to the truffle to showcase it in a straightforward and traditional manner. This was right on the money…a bit of tagliatelle wrapped around the tines of a fork and topped with Parmesan and a couple generous shavings of truffle. As I slid this into my mouth I couldn’t help but close my eyes and revel in exquisite truffle aromas dancing on top of my tongue. It simply doesn’t get better than this. Dungeness Crab Coconut milk, ten bridging garnishes The coconut milk is served in a cylinder that is lifted tableside. The original preparation utilized a spherical ball that contained coconut milk but I forgot to ask why they switched. The garnishes included: cashew, passion fruit, young coconut, lime, fenugreek, avocado and Thai chili, ginger, and green tomato marmalade. Again, this was an opportunity to explore flavor variations. The richness of the coconut milk didn't seem to overpower the crab but rather provided a suitable backdrop to the textures and flavors used in the dish. And it was the milk's fragrance that stood out most. I marveled at the fenugreek pairing and how much it instantly reminded me of Old Bay Seasoning (a natural pairing with crab.) Alyssa felt that the ginger was also successful and invoked thoughts of a Chinese style crab preparation that utilizes ginger and green onion. One could also see a play on Mexican ceviche through the lime pairing. So I think the interesting aspect of this dish was it's "around the world" spin which allowed the diner to compare and contrast traditional and non-traditional crab preparations one right after the other. Sturgeon Pumpkin, pumpkin seeds, matsutake mushroom Mission Hill, Pinot Blanc 2002 A new dish whipped up for the kitchen table...I thought this was fantastic. In flavor and in concept, it's a perfect late-Fall dish. Thin strips of sturgeon were presented bacon-style, brined in maple and juniper and smoked with applewood chips. This fish preparation was interesting in its attempt to mirror aspects of bacon. The succulent and earthy mushrooms balanced well with the woodsy pumpkin seeds and the smoky fish. These flavors together with the pumpkin created a well-rounded, full flavor that clearly epitomizes what fall has to offer. Iowa Pork Figs, truffles, fennel Scarpantoni “School Block”, McLaren Vale, Australia 2001 It's about this point in the meal where you just have to hold back your glee at the sheer scope of the Tour de Force menu. I mean you've already enjoyed so many substantial courses with probably hundreds of ingredients and you still have many more to go! This dish is great because you get several takes on the same ingredient. Featured are a pork loin medallion, pork rillette, and a black truffle steamed pork rib. All were fabulous. The rillette was not overly salty...a problem I've had at other restaurants. The rib meat was meltingly tender and delicious. And the medallion was lean and mild in flavor. The sweetness of the figs was a natural accompaniment and the slice of fennel at the bottom also went well with the meat. What's great with the dish was it showcased pork's different flavors, textures, and degrees of richness. Frozen Digestif Vinegar and Marigolds These frozen discs of German sipping vinegar were brought to the table resting in grooves carved into the top of a large block of ice. The diner is given tongs in order to grab hold of the disc and is asked to immediately place it on one's tongue. It melts quickly and a sweet, delicate vinegar flavor envelops the tongue. It lasts not more than a few seconds but it is pleasing none the least. Breast and Leg of Wisconsin Pheasant Autumnal fragrances Bonny Doon "Le Cigare Volant", California 2000 The latest incarnation of Trio's signature vapor dishes. This time the focus is on autumnal fragrances that include hay, pumpkin, and apple. The arrangement seemed to create two different classes of aroma. The left side of the dish had the earthy, hay smell while the right side was more sweet and fruity smelling. However, in comparison to the "walk through the forest" pine vapor that preceded it, these autumnal smells were much less pronounced. I had to get closer to the dish in order to smell the vapor. The edible portion of this dish included two slices of pheasant breast, some dark meat leg pieces, pole beans, Brussel sprouts, and an apple cider nage. The foam on top had a nice sweet tang to it. I've really bought into this whole vapor thing. I find there to be a really comforting quality to having warm, moist aromas rising from the dish. I think it really enhances the mood and psychology of the presentation. However, the pine vapor with rabbit was one of my all time favorite dishes and unfortunately, while respectable in it's own right, this rendition with pheasant didn't quite live up to my previous experience. Hereford Hop Guinness, onions, fresh yeast Rocha 20 year old Tawny Port, Douro, Portugal Awesome. One of the best composed cheese courses I've had (along with the Manchego Textures we had at Trio back in May). This British cheese is coated with hop blossoms during production. It's somewhat firm yet rich and buttery at the same time. The sharpness and mild bitterness of the various accompaniments successfully play off the flavor of the cheese. Especially good were the two forms of onion: crystallized chip and pickled onion wedges. Also, portion size was right on the money. Many cheese courses I've had at other restaurants seem to have large amounts of cheese that can be a bit too overwhelming late in a meal. Yeah, sure, I could always leave the excess on the plate but I hate feeling like I'm wasting good food. The Hereford Hop was just right. Mango-Olive-Pistachio Similar to the Mango-Yuzu capsule that we had back in May, this dish takes it a step further. This time the dehydrated mango capsule is longer and you are asked to bite off the top and suck out the powder inside. It's the chef's version of a pixie stick. The powder included pistachio, nicoise olive, cayenne pepper, and saffron. While I thought the powder flavors were mildly interesting together, they just didn't do it for Alyssa. But what we both agree on is that the mango capsule was great because of its crisp and delicate preparation. Tapioca of Roses Raspberries, clove, cream Ochs Blaufrankisch Eiswein, Neusiedlersee, Austria 2001 There are many reasons to love this dish. It's visually beautiful, it engages the diner, and it also helps educate you once again about relationship between scent and flavor. Having smelled both the rose and the raspberries, I can confirm that these scents are uncannily similar. Continuing the tubular theme of the last dish, this time the diner picks up a clear tube (cream side up) and sucks contents into one's mouth. Everything slides out remarkably well and the tapioca pearls impart a good textural contrast with the gelee. Of note was the fabulous pairing of the ice wine. The flavors of the wine perfectly mirrored the berry and floral flavors that were present in the dish. Liquid Mijao Parmesan, quinoa, hazelnuts Tamellini Recioto di Soave "Vigna Marogne", Veneto 1999 Featured Venezuelan chocolate with a gelatin outside and a liquid chocolate interior sitting on a quinoa custard base...an ingredient the chef wanted to use because of its essential amino acid content. A very unorthodox dessert but I really liked it. It wasn't overwhelming with the amount of chocolate used and I thought it worked well with the nuts and grapefruit. Overall, the entire dish was not too rich and it provided several different flavors to sample from which I appreciated. Tripod Hibiscus A good ending to a great meal. The hibiscus ice pop was pleasantly flavored and was a joy to eat. The metal tripod legs collapse together to form a single stick to hold. Not only does it look cool but it also provides an invigorating and refreshing end to the meal. Chocolate truffles Conclusion: So after all that, what rose to the top? Well for me the standouts were the Puree of Chestnuts, White Truffle Tagliatelle, Pushed Foie Gras, the Sturgeon, and the Hereford Hop. Probably what intrigues me the most about many of the dishes is the balancing act between savory and sweet. Chef Achatz's seems to revel in the exploration of this relationship and I can happily report that most of the time he is on the money. As would be expected, a clear autumnal theme resonated through the menu with extensive use of nuts, seeds, grains, and other earthy ingredients. Under this direction, many of the dishes showcased a richness and a fullness that was extremely pleasing. In addition, this thematic thread provided the meal with continuity from start to finish. And how did the menu compare to what we received back in May? Well it's always hard to live up to a good first impression, but Trio managed to do it. While the highest highs of the first menu were slightly higher than those this time, I think that overall the menu is now stronger across the board. I commend Chef Achatz for his prolific repriotoire and his desire to keep things fresh and exciting. Did I miss the "walk through the forest" dish this time? Well, somewhat yes, but that was greatly overshadowed by the fact that most of the menu is completely new. And it's not just a different protein or starch switched out here or there. The menu is ever evolving and from a conceptual level it continues to strive for new forms of presentation and consumption. For return visitors such as ourselves, things are always guaranteed to be exciting. In most of my reviews, I spend a few moments discussing service...good and bad. Although some may disagree, I feel that when it comes to dining at the kitchen table, service is not as much of an issue. I could nit pick a few instances where silverware wasn't properly set before the dishes arrived, etc. But at the 'KT', service is really secondary to the whole experience. To put it another way, when you're out in the dining room you have very little choice but to inwardly reflect on your table. And in that case, the manner in which your table is handled is a larger issue. But with the excitement that surrounds you in the kitchen, your attention shifts elsewhere. No longer are you paying as much attention to the mechanics...you're spending your time watching the action and absorbing the overall energy. I found the kitchen table to be a refreshingly real experience lacking any pretentiousness. It was more about the enjoyment of discussing amazingly artistic food and wine with people who are really passionate about what they do. The kitchen table really is what you make it. If you want strict formality, I'm sure they'd give it to you. But for us, we were looking to learn more about the people that comprise the Trio team. We enjoyed the friendly conversations with the chef and his staff and learning about how various people ended up working at the restaurant. The kitchen table allows you to spend time getting to know not only the philosophy behind the food but also about the people who breathe the soul into that same food. After spending a mind blowing six hours meal (boy the time flew by...it felt more like three to me) in the kitchen, I count many of these people as friends who I hope to visit with again in the future.
  4. jeffj

    Fifth Floor

    I probably would not opt for a la carte since three dishes would be about the same price as the tasting menu. I'd much rather have smaller portions of more dishes. A somewhat current list can be found on the Fifth Floor website. Our dinner lasted about 2 hours and 50 minutes. Once we got past the 35 minute wait for a table, the meal ran smoothly and at a good pace. We were never sitting around waiting for the next course.
  5. Nicely put adrober. Your post was refreshing and a really enjoyable read. I'm also relatively young (28) and have dinned at Trotter's as well as many other haute establishments and even though my experiences were more positive overall, I can relate to much of what you voiced. In any case, you're a great writer and I hope you continue to post your thoughts.
  6. jeffj

    Fifth Floor

    Yes, we do take notes as the dinner unfolds. Usually, my girlfriend takes the notes and I shoot the photos. We try to be as detailed as possible but sometimes it's tough getting all the details about wines, etc. And I always write a rough draft of my review the same evening or, at the very least, the next morning so that everything is still fresh in my mind. As to comparing Fifth Floor with The French Laundry...I think it's a really close race when you factor everything in. Atmosphere: I think interior-wise, the Fifth Floor is much more appealing and better decorated. However, in terms of general location, not many places can beat quaint, idyllic Yountville. Service: I would have to give the nod to The French Laundry for more precise and knowledgeable service. But I think the Fifth Floor has warmer more personable service. Food: This is really tough to call. I think it comes down to personal preferences and the menu and performance of the kitchen on the night you happen to be dining. All I can say is that if I had to pick between the two for a dinner next week, I would opt for Fifth Floor. Cost: You'll be able to escape the Fifth Floor with a lot more greenbacks still in your wallet as compared to The French Laundry. Inskillin Ice Wine: I actually enjoyed this a lot. I thought it held up well in terms of sweetness when pairing with the parade of desserts that we enjoyed. I wish I had more info on the particular vintage, etc. but this was one of the wines poured while I was on a bathroom break. And finally, yes, men and women received different amuses but the rest of the menu was the same. Why this is? I have no idea really.
  7. jeffj

    Fifth Floor

    This past weekend my girlfriend and I headed into the city for a dinner at Fifth Floor. What we enjoyed was a stunning meal that places this fine restaurant near the top of the bay area dining scene. However, not everything was flawless. The night got off to a rocky start when we arrived 15 minutes early for our 9:30pm reservation and were told that they were taking "instant reservations" this evening and that we would need to wait in the bar for a table. Now I'm not quite sure what an "instant reservation" is but, whatever it is, it appeared to make my confirmed 9:30pm reservation null and void. This was a unique experience...I've never had to wait for a table at a restaurant of this caliber. Most places are more than accommodating and usually seat us immediately even if we arrive early. So, growing perturbed, we sat at the bar and waited. Thirty-five minutes later we were finally ushered to our table. Neither a single apology, nor any offer of a comped beverage was presented during those thirty-five minutes. Needless to say, I was in foul mood as we reached the table. Fortunately, things really turned for the better from here on out. The service at Fifth Floor was warm and exacting. The staff was obviously knowledgeable about the menu and the particular preparations. And our waiter was extremely generous and helpful with our wine pairings throughout the meal. Belinda Chang stopped by for one pour to touch base and make sure everything was satisfactory. From overhearing her at other tables, I think she presents herself well...very relatable and not stuffy or pretentious in the least. Overall, there was a pleasant absence of major service errors. One issue to note was the fact that on two separate occasions, the wine was presented and poured with only one of us present at the table. Looking back, that should never have happened. Otherwise, things ran rather smoothly. October 31, 2003 Amuse Bouche Soter Beacon Hill Rosé, Willamette Valley 1998 For the men: Bay scallops with avocado and grapefruit Rare, if not raw, scallops in a small sake cup. Light citrus flavor followed by the briny taste of the sea. Filled out by the creaminess of the avocado. It was kept lively by the limey citrus juice on top. For the women: Fluke Single thin slice of fluke accompanied by some sort of light vinaigrette and a frilly green garnish that seemed very similar in taste to shiso leaves. Overall the amuses were okay. Being very mild in flavor, they're obviously meant to prepare the meal for the soft delicate opening dishes. I think the purity of the fluke outshined the more complex scallop dish. Oh Toro Pike’s “Polish Hill” Reserve Riesling, Clare Valley, Australia 2002 Admittedly, I'm no expert on toro...I've had it a handful of times, but this piece was by far the best I've ever had. If there were an oceanic equivalent to Kobe beef, this would be it. Showcased pretty much on it's own (with a bit of Hawaiian salt, lime, and oil) this slice of tuna shined bright. The marbling was outstanding and the consistency of the fat was something I've never seen before. The fish itself was absolutely melt-in-your-mouth tender. There's something so special about indulging in a pure ingredient at this level of quality. So simple, yet so special. Outstanding dish. Conch Chowder With Sea Urchin Domaine Weinbach Cuvée St. Catherine Tokay-Pinot Gris, Alsace 2001 Overall, this dish was not aggressive flavor-wise. It was subtle yet had some complexity to it. First off, the foam had an outstanding aroma and, in my mind, imparted a smoky, bacon-y flavor...but in a very delicate way. The conch was tender and not overly chewy. It was relatively mild in flavor. The uni provided more of a flavor of the ocean but in a restrained way. The briny-ocean and smoky flavors, along with the conch, played off each other very well. This was my girlfriend's favorite dish of the evening. Skate Wing Caramelized, Bordelaise sauce and artichoke Fattoria Pupille Morellino di Scansano 2001 We now begin to move into more assertive flavors. There were many great things going on with this dish. First off, the veal based bordelaise sauce was to die for. Spooned onto the skate tableside, you could just tell that this sauce was going to be special as it hit the plate. What a great and unexpected way to enjoy a piece of seafood. The sauce also bridged over to the wine selection, which was a sangiovese. The skate wing was prepared perfectly...it had a nice crust on it yet it was so moist and tender on the inside. The potato and artichoke puree under the skate rounded out the dish and provided a rich, buttery base for the other flavors to play off of. An absolutely outstanding dish...my favorite of the evening. Foie Gras “Chaud-Froid” Roasted with bee pollen and cured with Buddha’s Hand and Hawaiian salt 2000 Late Harvest Riesling We split this dish as an added supplement to the tasting menu. I first tasted the foie and lemon sauce and was very impressed with the richness and sweetness to it. I think the pairing of lemon with foie throughout the dish was very successful and was a new experience for me. Also appealing was the crust on the actual foie gras...sweet and nutty, it imparted great texture as well as flavor. What didn't really work with this dish was the thin slice of foie terrine that was hidden under the oval shaped lemon gelee. The gelee itself was delightfully sour and tangy yet it seemed to overpower the terrine. Had the slice been a bit bigger I think it would have more successfully contrasted the lemon with a rich fattiness. Overall, a solid dish. Squab Breast With squab and earl gray infused jus, chicken consume and polenta Etude Pinot Noir, Carneros 2001 Finished at the table with the squab and earl gray jus, this was a strong dish. The squab was very moist and on the rare side...prepared very well. Lemon zest in the sauce added another dimension to this dish. One of the better squab dishes I've had. Niman Ranch Pork Belly Poached slowly with black truffles and roasted crispy on the skin, truffle jus Copain “Cailloux & Coccinelle” Syrah, Walla Walla 2000 What an indulgent dish...perfectly crisped pork belly with plenty of tasty fat and a peppery exterior. Once again, this dish was finished off tableside with some truffle jus. Great aromas wafted up as the jus was spooned on. I really enjoyed the flavor play between the pork and the squared piece of apple. There was also some fabulous work done on the potato stacks with the peace symbol shaped design showing through the translucent top. This dish came to the table blisteringly hot. And for good reason...as the pork belly cooled off, it became less pleasurable to eat. Fortunately, I had polished off most of mine so quickly that this was of little consequence. Lime Sorbet With melon soup and figs Straightforward and clean. Nothing revolutionary...yet still pleasurable. Chocolate Guanaja Salad With passion fruit puree Inniskillin Vidal Ice Wine The passion fruit was a superb accompaniment to the chocolate because the tartness cut right into the sweetness of the mousse and kept the flavor fresh and lively. The passion fruit puree included seeds that were crisp and in good condition. Coconut Parfait With roasted pineapple jus Again another pleasurable dessert...but not for the coconut parfait which was only average, but for the tasty slices of pineapple draped over the dish. The pineapple really was the star of this dish and I had no complaints with that. Strawberries and Doughnuts Sautéed strawberries and milk shake, passion fruit doughnuts The passion fruit filled doughnuts were still warm and very fresh. I would have liked a bit more passion fruit in the middle but these were decent. Probably not quite as good as the lilikoi malasadas we recently had at Chef Mavro in Honolulu. The strawberries were fine but uninspiring. The strawberry-guava milk shake was definitely a positive. Its mellow flavor provided a good contrast to the tartness in the other components. Also presented was a Greek style yogurt topped with strawberry jam. Petit Fours Pretty good...and great sizing. Not too big. Conclusion Wow. Fifth Floor is the real deal. What an outstanding menu that presented a multidimensional array of styles. It starts softly and delicately with a purity of flavor and an emphasis on showcased ingredients. And by the end, the menu is presenting a bolder more assertive style of flavor combinations which all worked very well together. I love how the Oh Toro dish was so simplistic in it's spotlighting of a tremendous piece of tuna. And yet I equally enjoyed the cacophony of flavors and textures found in the foie gras course. What's truly impressive is how the more complex dishes managed to stay focused...never straying to a point where you wonder why something's included in a dish. Everything makes sense and every flavor coexists harmoniously. There also a definite interplay between light citrus flavorings and stronger heartier stock based sauces. And those lines even blur occasionally as in the squab dish. These dueling styles add interest to the meal as a whole. Laurent Gras is doing some stellar work in a town where culinary standards are already so high. I'm looking forward to many return trips up to the Fifth Floor.
  8. I can't wait for my TDF meal next month. Full list: 2004 Mobil Five Star Winners
  9. When Alice Waters opened Chez Panisse over thirty years ago, I doubt many people realized what an impact the restaurant would have in defining California cuisine nor how much it would influence restaurant menus across the entire country. By championing local, in-season products from small purveyors, Waters has lead a movement that has not only raised the bar for quality and freshness in dining but, at the same time, has also embraced social responsibility and strengthening of the community that surrounds the restaurant. Even though my girlfriend and I had previously lived in Berkeley for four years and even though we make several trips into Berkeley’s Gourmet Ghetto each month, we had never actually dined at Chez Panisse. Well, I’d finally sat down and decided to block out some time for a trip and here’s the lowdown: October 1, 2003 House-made salami with cornichons If there was any doubt as to the nature of Chez Panisse’s food, it was answered right of the bat with this small starter. Overworked, haute cuisine is no where to be seen...rather, Chez Panisse is all about simple and straightforward, pure flavors. The salami was very tasty and not overly oily. And with our late seating (9:15pm) I was hungry enough to gobble this down rather quickly. Green bean, hazelnut, and autumn fruit salad with garden lettuces and Midnight Moon cheese This was a very enjoyable dish…the quality and freshness of the ingredients stood out. The autumn fruit were grapes and figs and they were at the peak of sweetness. One of the great discoveries of this dish was the Midnight Moon cheese from Cypress Grove. Although there were only a couple shavings on the salad, the cheese stood out for its full, nutty flavor and salty crystalline bits that added some textural interest. I’ll definitely be purchasing some Midnight Moon during my next visit to the Cheese Board (which happens to be located right across the street from Chez Panisse.) Taking a fork full of lettuce with a bit of cheese and a piece of hazelnut and grape provided a tremendously satisfying flavor combination. And following that up with a sip of an Austrian Riesling was really superb. My girlfriend felt that the green beans were possibly a little overcooked, and while I tend to like my vegetables in an al dente, nearly raw state, I felt the preparation of the green beans was great in relation to the other components in the salad. Roasted Chino Ranch yellow pepper and pimento soups Once again, this course illustrated how to distill foods down to the pure essence of their flavor. Both soups were intensely flavored with their respective ingredients. They also played off one another very well…the yellow pepper soup provided a sweetness while the pimento was fierier with a hint of bitterness. Contrasting with the purity of flavor was the oil that was drizzled on top. Taking a spoon full of soup with the oil added an immense richness that warmed the stomach. This was a great autumn soup. Spit-roasted Niman Ranch pork loin with mustard and capers, fresh shell beans, and broccoli rabe Pork isn’t usually at the top of my list of preferred meats but I was very excited to try this dish. My expectation was that Chez Panisse would be able to serve pork in a way that would hopefully open my eyes. And while this dish wasn’t a revelation, it was indeed very strong. The pork loin was very tender and flavorful…the outer portions were infused with some fabulous seasonings. And of course I went all out and ate virtually all of the pork fat that was attached to the slices of meat. So succulent and tender, the fat had an obscene richness that you just can’t find in many dishes (and thankfully so, since I don’t even want to fathom the nutritional facts on what I consumed.) To back up the meat, fresh shell beans added body while broccoli rabe added some bitterness. Both were adequate but nothing to write home about. To accompany this dish we split a glass of house recommended Dolcetto d'Alba. One thing to note about this dish…I don’t know if I’m cursed or what, but I always seem to end up with some sort of foreign object in my food. In this case it was a portion of twine that had been used to tie up the loin. It reminded me of a passage from Michael Ruhlman’s “Soul of a Chef” where he describes a similar incident at the French Laundry. In that case the chef was so passionately angered with himself at such a mistake. I wondered if such a gaffe at Chez Panisse would be viewed with the same self criticism. In any case, the server apologized in a round about way and comped our cheese course and dessert wines. Artisan cheese selection Goat’s Leap Sumi, a sheep’s milk camembert from New York, and a firm cow’s milk cheese from Provence. Straightforward cheese plate with walnut bread. Unfortunately, I failed to note further details of each cheese. The Sumi and the camembert stood out. Apple-Calvados tart with raspberries A very enjoyable dessert. As I have always noted, I love fruit based desserts so this was right up my ally. The raspberries were fresh and still intact within the tart. The tart crust was crisp and flaky…especially around the border. And the sauce and cream added just enough moisture and additional sweetness to the tart. The Muscat wine was a pleasant accompaniment. Mignardises Conclusion: Chez Panisse really has become an icon of California cuisine. And entering the dining room and sitting within its dark wooded, craftsman style interior, you really get the feeling that you’re experiencing the core of what Berkeley is all about. Chez Panisse is full of warmth. It’s accessible, relatable, home-style, comfort food that is expertly prepared but doesn’t exude a shred of pretentiousness. All along, however, you never forget that you’re sampling a cuisine that is historically significant. You’re experiencing the genesis of a movement in the food world. In the end, the restaurant presented a menu that was as I expected…and that’s a positive statement. The spotlight was on fresh, pure flavors that warmed the soul. Yes, the meal did not invoke any cerebral exertion, but its simplicity is its charm. Even with the minor glitches, service overall was attentive and accurate…not many mistakes were made. In a nutshell, I would not hesitate to recommend Chez Panisse to those who are looking to experience California culinary culture…a style of food that makes California a unique place.
  10. Re: the bill The final tab for two was $655. Re: what I do for a crust I'm a web designer who has been fortunate enough to weather layoffs from three different Dot Coms and still be able to find work in the valley. In these tough times, I count my blessings every day. Re: FL vs. Trotters It's funny...I was initially going to write a short section about how I feel that these two restaurants are very similar. Both are obviously icons in the industry and are lead by highly respected chefs. And I think both places offer absolute top quality service without being overly stuffy. As for the food, I think FL definitely has an established style and philosophy. A menu from three years ago would probably not be that much different than a menu served today. I don't have a large historical knowledge of Trotters...but it will be interesting to see the direction that Charlie takes in the coming years (that is if the rumors of the restaurant shutting down are indeed false.) By the recent banishment of foie gras from his menu and his embrace of the raw food movement, Chef Trotter's menu could very well change drastically in the coming years. It's very hard for me to definitively proclaim one restaurant better than the other. They're both outstanding. If I was pressed, I would probably lean towards FL. Re: choices on the tasting menu I think the typical FL chef's menu only has one optional item (the foie course.) However I've seen several instances where there have been expanded options. One in particular was a menu offered during truffle season that had several truffle up-sells. I think that the ingredients available at the time dictate whether "special" items will be offered on the tasting menu. Yes, in my opinion the foie course is worth it...its very delicious. Especially when the other option was the hearts of palm salad which has gotten some negative reviews from people. One thing to note is that since both my girlfriend and I ordered the foie, our server offered to send out two preparations: the terrine and a sautéed preparation. However, we both prefer our foie cold so we politely declined.
  11. As bay area residents, my girlfriend and I are fortunate enough to be able to make day trips to Napa to indulge our food and drink obsession. And there's no better place to do that than at The French Laundry. Having secured lunch reservations through Open Table exactly two months previously, we were ready to have a memorable meal. We arrived in Yountville about thirty minutes early for our 11:15 reservation and took the opportunity to visit the newly opened Bouchon Bakery. As we pulled up I had to do a double take...I almost assuredly saw Chef Keller reading the newspaper on one of the benches outside the bakery. However, by the time we had parked and walked over he was gone so I can’t be sure. At the bakery we purchased a croissant and one of the small rustique loaves. Of course these were to bring home since we weren't about to eat anything before the main event. The croissant turned out to be very tasty but I was rather disappointed with the rustique. The exterior was scorched and thus it had a burned taste. In addition, the loaf was a bit more tough and chewy than the Acme Ciabatta that I love. It's a quaint bakery but I would not go out of my way to return there. With blue skies and moderately warm temperatures, you couldn't ask for better weather. It was a great change from the first time we dined at FL back in February...that day was cold and rainy. We headed over to the Laundry and spent a few minutes walking the grounds and peering into the kitchen. The first thing you notice is how quiet the kitchen is. It's definitely a testament to the polished nature of the FL machine. Efficiency of movement and absolute focused energy are the rules in that kitchen. We leisurely walked into the restaurant and were immediately seated at a two top in the downstairs dining room. WINES I love being able to sample a large assortment of wines that have been paired with particular dishes. While FL doesn't have a wine pairing with their menu, I had hoped to be able to order five or six wines by the glass and then have the pours split between the two of us. This would allow us to taste as many wines as possible without getting too tipsy. However, our server said that they could not accommodate that request for smaller/split pours. I was rather surprised and disappointed that they said "no" to a seemingly easy request. In any event, even though I knew we'd end up drinking too much wine, we went ahead and ordered as our waiter suggested: Two glasses of Sauternes, a half bottle of white, and a half bottle of red. We left the bottle choices to the discretion of the waiter so as to hopefully get the best food/wine pairing possible. In the end, we were also comped two half glasses of champagne and were brought two glasses of dessert wine. The bill was rung up with the two half bottles, one Sauternes, and one dessert wine. Overall, it was much too much wine for us to drink but we had fun drinking it anyways. Summary: 2 half glasses Champagne (unknown) 2 glasses 1997 Chateau Climens Barsac Half bottle 2001 Chassagne-Montrachet Domaine Jean Pillot Half bottle 2000 Chateau Fortia Chateauneuf-du-Pape Rouge 2 glasses 1995 Fonseca Guimaraens Port FOOD Here’s a rundown of the full printed menu: Chef’s Tasting Menu August 10, 2003 Cauliflower "Panna Cotta" Bagaduce Oyster Glaze and Iranian Osetra Caviar -------- Salad of Hawaiian Hearts of Palm With Breakfast Radish, Celery Branch And "Fines Herbes" Vinaigrette Or Poached Moulard Duck "Foie Gras En Terrine", Frisee Lettuce and Black Perigord Truffles, Served with Toasted "Brioche" ($25 Supplement) -------- Grilled Hawaiian Big-Eye Tuna, Forest Mushrooms, Crispy Shallots And a Red Wine Sauce Or "Toro" of Hawaiian Big-Eye Tuna, Served with a Salad of Japanese Sweet Rice, Candied Peanuts, Garden Cucumber and Pickled Red Pearl Onions ($15 Supplement) -------- Sweet Butter Poached Maine Lobster With Caramelized Fennel Bulb, Crystallized Fennel Chip And Sauce "Noilly Prat" -------- "Un Paquet De Rillettes De Lapin", French Green Lentils and Applewood Smoked Bacon "Lardons" -------- Elysian Fields Farm Lamb Saddle "Roti Entier" With Roasted Italian Eggplant, Sultanas, Toasted Almonds Herb-Scented "Panisse" and Madras Curry Oil Or Wolfe Ranch Squab "Cuit En Sous Vide" With "Haricots Verts", Yellow Wax Beans, Fingerling Potatoes And Perigord Truffles (Serves Two) -------- "Abbaye De Belloc" With Sauce "Piperade" and Baby Arugula -------- Maui Pineapple Sorbet With a Toasted Coconut "Financier" -------- "Delice Au Chocolat" With Passion Fruit "Coulis", Chocolate "Dentelle" and Yogurt "Foam" -------- "Mignardises" Summary: Cornets Salmon Tartare with Red Onion Crème Fraiche Obviously everyone's familiar with this amuse. And it truly is a perfect amuse. I tend to agree with my girlfriend when she suggested that a full tray of these cones would be a stupendous meal it it's own right. I can't get enough of these. Cauliflower "Panna Cotta" Bagaduce Oyster Glaze and Iranian Osetra Caviar This was a very subtle yet decadent dish. The cauliflower flavor was very appealing and the combination of champagne and caviar can't be beat. What's intriguing about dishes such as this is the fact that you are tasting a familiar flavor (in this case cauliflower) in a non-traditional form. I love the playfulness. Poached Moulard Duck "Foie Gras En Terrine", Frisee Lettuce and Black Perigord Truffles, Served with Toasted "Brioche" We had this same dish back in February and it was just as outstanding this time. I love cold preparation foie gras. One thing to note is that the first time we had this dish, the wait staff only changed out our Brioche one time whereas on this occasion we were given three plates. That was definitely a nice touch. "Toro" of Hawaiian Big-Eye Tuna, Served with a Salad of Japanese Sweet Rice, Candied Peanuts, Garden Cucumber and Pickled Red Pearl Onions The interesting aspect of this fish course was the fact that on our first visit, the fish course also had an Asian twist to it: Gold Coast Pompano with Stir Fry Vegetables and Sauce "Satay". That dish was not very appealing (due to both the lack of thickness of the fish and the rather average flavoring of the sauce) and we felt it was out of place on the menu. However, this time, the toro dish was a lot more successful. Although the candied peanuts tended to overpower the dish a bit, the cucumbers and onions were a positive accompaniment. The toro was absolutely tender and rich in a fatty way. A near perfect piece of fish. And the wasabi oil provided a great little kick and was a standout due to its fresh wasabi taste. Sweet Butter Poached Maine Lobster With Caramelized Fennel Bulb, Crystallized Fennel Chip And Sauce "Noilly Prat" This dish is absolute perfection. It's another dish that we had the first time and I was so excited to see it on the menu again. This is definitely one of my top three dishes of all time. I wish I knew how to make the Noilly Prat sauce because I'd be pouring it over everything. The flavor combination of fennel and lobster is so delicious. "Un Paquet De Rillettes De Lapin", French Green Lentils and Applewood Smoked Bacon "Lardons" I started by tasting a bit of the sauce and it was very rich and appealing. Unfortunately, the next bite, which included the rabbit, was much too salty. And to top it off, a subsequent bite included a hard tooth shaped object. That was a rather surprising gaffe for such a high quality restaurant. Elysian Fields Farm Lamb Saddle "Roti Entier" With Roasted Italian Eggplant, Sultanas, Toasted Almonds Herb-Scented "Panisse" and Madras Curry Oil The lamb was tender and full of flavor but there was nothing exciting about the dish. "Abbaye De Belloc" With Sauce "Piperade" and Baby Arugula Nothing much to note with this one. However, it did seem like the cheese had sat out at room temperature a bit too long. Maui Pineapple Sorbet With a Toasted Coconut "Financier" This was somewhat disappointing. I love fruit based desserts. Yet once again the financier was too hard and the sorbet was nothing special...it was lacking a strong pineapple flavor. It was especially disappointing when compared to a similar dish we recently had at Charlie Trotters (which was stronger due to the use of ginger, olive oil, and thyme.) "Coffee and Doughnuts" One pleasant surprise was the arrival of a complimentary course of the FL signature dessert "Coffee and Doughnuts." I assume this was to make amends for the hard object I found in my rabbit dish. I was excited since I've read about this dessert many times but had not tasted it yet. It was a very satisfying dish. The doughnuts were warm and very freshly made...freshness is definitely a key to an enjoyable doughnut. The cappuccino semifreddo is a perfect accompaniment. "Delice Au Chocolat" With Passion Fruit "Coulis", Chocolate "Dentelle" and Yogurt "Foam" Pistachio Pot de Crème / Crème Brule "Mignardises" Nothing significant of note with these. CONCULUSION The French Laundry is truly a top tier establishment. After dining there twice this year I feel that I have a good grasp of the food and what the restaurant is all about. The food is obviously outstanding and offers some of the best dishes I've ever tasted. However, I can't help but feel that many of the dishes are a bit too uninspiring for me. I think the menu often starts out with "both guns blazing" but then begins to fizzle as it moves past the seafood. I love dishes such as "Oysters and Pearls", the foie gras terrine, and the butter poached lobster but I think that the heavier dishes and the desserts are not as successful. Good ingredients and good preparation, yes, but they don't present anything that makes me yell out "wow". The age old question is, "Is it worth it?" And my answer is a definitive "yes." It is an absolutely enjoyable meal and the setting of Napa Valley can't be beat. Yet, for my personality and my tastes, the most exciting restaurant right now is still Trio in Evanston, Illinois. Keller protégé, Grant Achatz's TDF menu is an absolute dream. You are able to sample so many different flavor combinations and are presented with such a cerebral culinary experience. Nothing about Trio is safe or traditional...and that's why it's so exciting. The bottom line is that I plan on traveling thousands of miles to visit Trio again before making another trip to The French Laundry. If you'd like to check out more about my previous dinner at Trio, read my Chicago Trip Report.
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