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Posts posted by slkinsey
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Hi raji!
I was probably unclear before. I know they refire the oven a few times a day: before lunch service and before dinner service. It's important, I think, just to make sure that you go as close to that time as possible.
My personal experience is that a lot of the people who don't particularly like Grimaldi's (and there are plenty) are those who tend to go at, say, three o'clock in the afternoon to beat the crowds. Well, this is the worst possible time to go there, since the oven was last stoked sometime around 11:00. This is what I've been saying about the inconsistency. 12:00 or 5:00 will get you a mind-blowing pizza. 3:00 or 8:00. . . a very good pizza, but not in the same league.
I guess I just don't agree with their oven management technique, which seems to be doing two or three big burns a day but otherwise not fueling the oven. This could, of course, be economics. They may have decided that it doesn't make good financial sense to keep the oven at peak heat at three o'clock in the afternoon when they won't be doing all that much business. Still, I've never been to Patsy's East Harlem and had a pizza that seemed to come from an underheated oven.
Great picture of the oven, by the way! It's image DSC_1466 for others who may wish to give it a look. How were they about letting you take pictures? Did you arrange with them beforehand to take pictures? I ask because we were told (fairly rudely, I might add, even by NYC standards) that they did not want us taking pictures of the oven.
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Strangely, Vanilla Pepsi is pretty good. And it's hard to understand why Coke would have made such an artificial-tasting product. Artificial vanilla is usually simply vanillin, which is the main flavor component of vanilla. It's not as complex as the real thing, which has a zillion subtle flavor components, but it doesn't taste all that "artificial."
On the other hand, I read somewhere that a big reason behind the flop of "New Coke" was the substitution of vanillin for vanilla extract.
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The real culprits are cupric sulphate (easy to spot), lead (not so easy) and aluminum (jury still out on this one.)
If you're speaking of the presumed connection between aluminum and Alzheimer's disease , the jury has been in on that one for years. There is no danger from using aluminum cookware. Some quotes:
". . . the current consensus is that aluminum does not play a major role in the development of Alzheimer's disease . . ." - Leonard Berg, professor of neurology at the Washington University School of Medicine and former director of the Alzheimer's Disease Research Center". . . if aluminum plays a role it is most probably a secondary one. The reasoning for this position is based on the fact that aluminum is one of the most abundant and pervasive elements. It is found everywhere . . ." - Zaven S. Khachaturian, director of the Ronald and Nancy Reagan Research Institute
". . . When the tissue was processed using more sophisticated analytical methods, or when more accurate measures of aluminum content in the Alzheimer's-diseased brain were used, no excess aluminum was found. In addition, studies of the total amount of aluminum in the body of patients with Alzheimer's Disease show no increase in aluminum concentrations as compared to healthy individuals. In my opinion, the supposed relation between aluminum and Alzheimer's Disease is a simple case of neuromythology." - Charles DeCarli, director of the Alzheimer's Disease Center at the University of Kansas Medical Center
As for the old stuff, I guess I should have them re-lined just as soon as I can because it would not be good if they contain lead of any kind. I wonder what that costs?I don't think retinning is terribly expensive, but it's not cheap either. Perhaps there is some kind of test for lead you could do? I think there are tests for lead glaze in pottery.
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Berentzen seems to be the apple schnapps of preference among my shaker-wielding fans. Here's another one from Audrey:
Applejack Cobbler2 oz. Lairds Applejack
1 oz. Fresh Cranberry sauce (recipe on ocean spray bag)
3, half-slices of orange (or 3/4 - 1oz fresh orange juice)
1/2 oz Punt e mes
1/2 oz Berentzens Apple Schnapps
1 barspoon Al Wadi Pomegranate Molasses
3 Dashes Angostura Bitters
Garnish: Cape Gooseberry with "onion paper" skin peeled backwards and hooked over the rim of the glass.
Measure all ingredients into a mixing glass. Muddle WELL. Shake hard to at least a 10 second count, and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with gooseberry. The color should be an opaque, ruby red---dark and bloody in effect.
There's also the Apple Core from First as featured in Anthony Giglio's Cocktails in New York (thread here) which is:
Apple Core
1.25 oz : apple vodka
0.75 oz : Berentzen Apfelkorn apple schnapps
0.25 oz : fresh lemon juice
1 tsp : apple cider
Fill cocktail glass 1/3 with apple foam (1 sheet gelatin per cup of fresh apple juice, charged in a charger). Shake with cracked ice and strain into a cocktail glass.
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The bonded applejack is 100 proof and 100% aged apple brandy.
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The original vessel described by bleu may well be safe because there is no note about copper showing through, and no apparent need to re-tin. Some of us think that tin is toxic, but it is still allowed for sale as a copper lining, after testing by my government.
I agree that a tin lining should be safe. The discussion about copper and safety for cooking evolved out of a discussion on "what if" the lining was failing.
When the tin begins to wear through (my French pans lasted several years) I was still able to use them for non acidic foods, without getting sick.Hey, knock yourself out.
It's your own body and you can take your own risks. I will simply point out, however, that it's possible to ingest too much copper (and lead, etc.) without immediately getting "sick" from it. Especially if you're only using it maybe a few times a month. I cook with my copper cookware on a daily basis, and personally I wouldn't use a copper pan for "regular cooking" if the tin lining had failed. I'd get it re-tinned. Plenty of people eat food that's been cooked in lead-glazed pottery every so often, or drink hard booze that's been stored in a lead crystal decanter for years and don't "get sick" every time they do it. . . but that doesn't mean it's not a bad idea.
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What about carnitas which are traditionally fried in an unlined copper vessel?
Certain things, like high fat/neutral pH carnitas or melted sugar, etc. seem to be okay. . . which is to say that they seem like cooking tasks that do not encourage copper to dissolve into the food.
That said, there are a lot of things that are "traditionally" cooked in ways that are poisonous (e.g., cooked in lead-glazed pottery, etc.).
I have a copper pot from France that needs to be retinned (after 3 uses!) but I can't see why I should bother. I just don't use it.This is one of the reasons I always recommend that people buy stainless-lined heavy copper instead of tin-lined. You have to baby tin-lined copper substantially more than even nonstick. No high heat, only soft (wood or thermal plastic) utensils, no scrubbing of any kind, etc. If your pan needs to be retinned after only three uses, it's likely that you either didn't use it gently enough or the pan wasn't tinned particularly well to begin with. It's also the case that a lot of what seems like "bargain priced French copper" is actually not made to be cooked with at all, but is meant for table-side presentation and service (e.g., Mauviel's table service line).
Of course, if you don't use it -- problem solved!
. . . I'm sure that I have consumed more copper as a metalsmith than an average person would by using a copper pot in their kitchen.It's hard to say whether or not that is true. There are several things to consider: You're probably not getting all that much copper into your body via absorption into the skin simply by handling copper with some frequency. So what we're talking about in your case is how much copper you have potentially inhaled in dust form from sanding copper (or perhaps in vapor form?). Unless you're leaving visible drifts of copper dust on your work surface (as, for example, a sculptor who works large pieces of copper might), and unless you're getting this exposure on a daily basis, it's unlikely that you're ingesting a great deal of copper. More than a "regular person," sure. . . but maybe not meaningfully more. From what I have read, it seems highly unlikely that you are being exposed to a copper particulate level in the air (~5,000 ng/m^3) that would make it likely that you would suffer from the various health risks associated with such exposure (metal fever, atrophic changes to nasal mucous membranes, various lung ailments, etc.).
Then there is also the issue of the form of the copper. As I mentioned upthread, the soluble copper compounds (i.e., those that are likely to get into your food from cooking in a copper pan) have a greater impact on human health compared to the forms in the copper dust you might be getting from your work. So, I would guess that cooking in copper on a regular basis puts more copper and more of the worst forms of copper into the human body than working with copper jewelry. Of course, I don't fully appreciate the kind or magnitude of your work. If you're regularly working in an environment where copper dust and vapors are filling the air, you might consider protecting yourself.
[NB. When I say "cooking in copper" here, we're talking about cooking in unlined copper, or in copper cooking vessels in which the lining has substantially failed. I cook in copper all the time, but in stainless lined copper where the food never contacts the copper.]
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There is also Domaine Germain Robin.
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Copper is poisonous.
In what context - and how much? I'm sure EVERYTHING is poisonous to some degree, but as a jeweler, I have been filing and sanding and inhaling copper for 20 years and have never heard this before...
What they said above.
Copper is one of those things that is essential is small amounts and poisonous in larger amounts. Copper poisoning is usually an acute condition, but is is possible that it can build up and have a cumulative effect over time. So, for example, cooking tomato sauce in an unlined copper pan might not make you sick. But eating that tomato sauce 5 times a week for six months would be a very bad idea. This is all the more true because soluble copper compounds are the ones that pose the greatest risk to human health.
If you think you're ingesting a fair amount of copper (I don't know how often you work with copper or how much of it you might ingest on a regular basis), I'd recommend doing something to minimize your exposure (gloves and a mask, for example).
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Interesting drink, Chef Shogun. I think it might do a little better in a Collins glass (tall and narrow) rather than a pint glass, though. That way the gradient will display better, and it's a more elegant drink.
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So if I lined it with parchment paper I won't die of tin poisoning?
Make sure the copper isn't showing through the tin lining. Copper is poisonous.
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The great thing about these places is when you ask about the other items on the menu. For example, here is a conversation I have witnessed a few times:
Fat Guy: "Say, what about this noodle dish here. . ."
Guy behind the counter: "Fried dumpling! Five for dollar!"
Fat Guy: "I see, I see. And how about this congee. . ."
Guy behind the counter: "Fried dumpling! Five for dollar!"
Fat Guy: "Right. Two orders of fried dumplings."
Guy behind the counter: "Fried dumpling! Five for dollar!"
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Um. . . I don't know.
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Your cappucino looks remarkably un-sea-foam-ish. I saw your Silvia on the first page. Do you use some special attachement on the foaming wand? Or as it came from the factory. If so, what is the trick to lining up the hole with the surface. (Our current machine has the holes on the sides which makes life easier, but makes crappy coffee so we are strongly considering the Slivia.)
Kathleen probably won't know the answer to this, so I'll chime in. The steam wand on my Silvia is outfitted with a custom-mod three hole steam tip from 1st-Line Equipment. This means that, instead of a single jet of steam pointed straight down, there are three jets of steam pointing out at an angle in three different directions (the configuration is triangular). This makes it much easier to achieve the crucial "turn over" of the milk that leads to proper microfoam.
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I started a large amount of charcoal with gasoline years ago. Once I got all the burning cinders out of what was left of my hair and clothes, it was a pretty good fire.
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I always laugh when I think about the various liquors and ingredients of which Pegu Club is going through unprecedented amounts. I am quite sure, for example, that they are going through as much Rittenhouse rye, Punt e Mes and Green Chartreuse as the rest of the island of Manhattan combined. And I've got to suspect that they're going through a significant percentage of NYC's Laird's applejack now, too.
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Do T'afia and Noe have distinct bar areas that people go to, or is it more of a tiny little place where people wait for tables at the restaurant?
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(Don't ferretts running around all night impede sleep?)
They usually jump up on my side of the bed. . .
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Off the top of my head, I've seen Rittenhouse, Old Overholt, the Old Potrero bottlings, Wild Turkey, Van Winkle, a couple different kinds of Michter's, and Beam at Pegu. I don't think I've seen Pikesville, but I could be mistaken.
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I am in Houston until November 20 doing some performances. Pretty soon the rehearsal schedule will lighten up, and I thought I might like to try a few places in town with real cocktails. I'm primarily looking for quieter places with adult drinks and an upscale atmosphere. No loud college beer and frozen margarita places or pickup joints. I'd like to taste the best Houston has to offer in mixology.
Suggestions are welcomed.
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2) What do you mean by clove tincture? How numbing should the stuff be? How many cloves to how much vodka aged for how long? Or how many drops of clove oil to how much vodka?
One of the cool things they have going at Pegu is a whole array of single-flavor tinctures behind the bar: clove, cinnamon, grains of paradise, pepper. . . you name it. I've been meaning to make a tincture of Sichuan peppercorns to see how that might work. Could be interesting. . . could suck.
"Tincture" in this context means, more or less, "the volatile parts of a substance, separated by a solvent (alcohol, in this case)." Audrey can probably supply any specifics, but my understanding is that it's something like: one ounce of whole spice toasted, ground up and mixed with vodka for X hours, then filtered.
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Everyone is also getting their response to the announcements out.
From Per Se:
"I am deeply honored to receive this distinction from the Michelin Guide -- a truly legendary recognition," said chef Thomas Keller. "I established Per Se in the spirit of The French Laundry, we strive to give our guests the finest dining experience and I am so blessed to work with an incredibly talented and dedicated team. I share this acknowledgement with Laura Cunningham, who has been with me since the inception of The French Laundry and has supervised the development of per se, chef de cuisine Jonathan Benno, director of operations Eric Lilavois and the entire staff of all of our restaurants."From ADNY:
Alain Ducasse at the Essex House has been honored with three stars by the Michelin Guide New York City 2006 making Alain Ducasse the only chef ever to have three restaurants (the celebrated Alain Ducasse at the Plaza Athénée, Paris, and Louis XV in Monaco are the other two) with three stars each from the prestigious guide. . . . In Alain Ducasse's eyes every guest is a 'star' and he insists on treating each and everyone as such. No matter what day of the week, what country, he believes there is only one criterion for success – quality. To maintain this level of excellence, Alain Ducasse relies heavily on strong teams in whom he has confidence; he gives the tempo and inspires the energy to continue his incessant quest for perfection. Tony Esnault, 34, Executive Chef, has worked with Alain Ducasse for three years in Monaco and has known, traveled and shared the same passionate exploration of cuisine and hospitality for over seven years. Yannis Stanisiere is the restaurant manager and carefully looks after the guests while Andre Compeyre, Chef Sommelier, is responsible for selecting the greatest international wines. -
For those who are interested, here is the complete list of NYC Michelin restaurants:
Manhattan
66
202 Restaurant
21 Club
44 & X Hell's Kitchen
5 Ninth
71 Clinton Fresh Food
Abboccato
Acappella
Acqua Pazza
Aix
Aki
Alain Ducasse [Essex House] -- *** -- 5 couverts red
Alamo
Alcala
Aleo
Alto
AMA
Amuse
Annisa -- * -- 2 couverts black
AOC Bedford
Apizz
Aquagrill
Aquavit
Aroma Kitchen & Wine Bar
Artie's Deli
Artisanal
Asia De Cuba
Asiate
Atlantic Grill
August
Aureole -- * -- 4 couverts black
Avra Estiatorio
Babbo -- * -- 3 couverts black
Balthazar
Banjara
Bar Americian
Bar Masa
Barbetta
Basta Pasta
Bayard's
Bayou
Beacon
Becco
Bellini
Ben Benson's
Beppe
Beyoglu
Bice
Biltmore Room
Bistro 60
Bistro Cassis
Bistro du Vent
BLT Fish -- * -- 3 couverts black
BLT Prime
BLT Steak
Blue Fin [W Hotel]
Blue Hill
Blue Ribbon
Blue Ribbon Bakery
Blue Ribbon Sushi
Blue Water Grill
Boathouse Central Park
Bobby Van' s Steakhouse
Boi
Bolo
Bombay Talkie
Bond Street
Bottega Del Vino
Bouley -- ** -- 4 couverts black
Brasserie
Brasserie 81/2
Bread Tribeca
Bricco
Bridge Café
Bruno
Bryant Park Grill
Bull and Bear [Waldorf Astoria Hotel]
Cabana
Café Boulud -- * -- 3 couverts black
Café Centro
Café de Bruxelles
Café Gray -- * -- 3 couverts red
Café Mogador
Café Sabarsky
Calle Ocho
Canaletto
Candle Café
Capsouto Frères
Casa La Femme North
Casa Mono
Caviar & Banana
Cellini
Cendrillon
Centolire
Cesca
Chanterelle
Chelsea Bistro
China Grill
Cho Dang Gol
Chubo
Cipriani Dolci
Circus
Cité
Compass
Craft -- * -- 3 couverts black
Craftbar
Crispo
Cru -- * -- 4 couverts black
Cube 63
Da Antonio
Da Giacomo
Da Silvano
Da Umberto
Daniel -- ** -- 5 couverts red
Danube -- ** -- 3 couverts red
Davidburke & Donatella
Dawat
DB Bistro Moderne
Del Frisco's
Della Rovere
Devi
Dim Sum Go Go
Diwan
Django
Donguri
Dos Caminos
Downtown Cipriani
Dylan Prime
El Cid
El Faro
Eleven Madison Park
EN Japanese Brasserie
ESCA
Estiatorio Milos
Etats-Unis -- * -- 1 couvert black
Etcetera Etcetera
Extra Virgin
Felidia
Fiamma Osteria -- * -- 3 couverts black
Fig & Olive
Firebird
Five Points
Fives
Fleur de Sel -- * -- 2 couverts black
Flor's Kitchen
Four Seasons
Frankie and Johnnie's
Frederick's Madison
Fresco by Scotto
fresh
Fuleen Seafood
Gabriel's
Gallagher's
Gari
Gascogne
Gavroche
Geisha
Giambelli 50th
Gigino at Wagner Park
Gigino Trattoria
Giorgione
Giovanni
Gnocco
Gobo
Golden Unicorn
Good Enough to Eat
Gotham Bar and Grill -- * -- 3 couverts black
Gramercy Tavern -- * -- 3 couverts black
Grand Central Oyster Bar
Grand Sichuan Eastern
Great N. Y. Noodletown
Hangawi
Harlem Grill
Hasaki
Hearth
HEDEH
Hell's Kitchen
Home
Honmura An
I Coppi
I Trulli
IAN
Ichiro
Ida Mae
Il Buco
Il Cantinori
Il Cortile
Il Menestrello
Il Monello
Il Mulino
Il Nido
Il Palazzo
Il Riccio
Il Tinello
Inagiku
Inoteca
Iron Sushi
Isabella's
Ithaka
Itzocan
Jack's Luxury Oyster Bar
Jane
Jarnac
Jean Claude
Jean-Georges -- *** -- 4 couverts black
Jean-Luc
Jewel Bako -- * -- 1 couvert red
Jewel Bako Makimono
Joe Allen
JoJo -- * -- 2 couverts black
Josephs Citarella
Jubilee
Kai
Keens Steakhouse
Khyber Grill
Kings' Carriage House
Kirara
Kitchen 22
Kitchen 82
Kittichai [60Thompson Hotel]
Koi
Koi
Komegashi
Kurumazushi
La Goulue -- * -- 2 couverts black
La Grenouille
La Mangeoire
La Masseria
La Paella
L'Absinthe
Lan
Land Thai Kitchen
Landmarc
Lavagna
LCB Brasserie
Le Bernardin -- *** -- 5 couverts black
Le Bilboquet
Le Colonial
Le Gigot
Le Perigord
Le Tableau
Le Zie 2000
Le Zinc
L'Ecole
Lenox Room
Les Halles
Les Halles Downtown
Lever House -- * -- 3 couverts black
L'Impero
Lo Scalco -- * -- 3 couverts black
Luca
Lucy
Lupa
Lure Fishbar
Lusardi's
Macelleria
Magnifico
Maloney & Porcelli
Mamlouk
Mandarin Court
March -- * -- 3 couverts black
Markjoseph Steakhouse
Mark's
Marseille
Mary's Fish Camp
MAS
Masa -- ** -- 2 couverts black
Matsuri
Maz Mezcal
Megu
Mercer Kitchen [Mercer Hotel]
Mesa Grill
Metrazur
Mexicana Mamma
Mezzaluna
Mezzogiorno
Michael Jordan's
Michael's
Molyvos
Momofuku Noodle Bar
Montrachet
Morton's
Mosto
Mr. Chow
Nadaman Hakubai
Nam
Nanni
Nebraska Beef
Nello
NEO Sushi
New Leaf Café
New Wonton Garden
Nice Matin
Nice Restaurant
Nick & Stef's Steakhouse
Nick's
Nicole's
Nippon
Nobu -- * 2 -- couverts black
North Square
Nyonya
O Mai
Ocean Grill
Oceana -- * -- 3 couverts black
Odeon
Old Homestead
Olives
One if by land, two if by sea
Ono
Oriental Garden
Orsay
Orso
Osteria Al Doge
Osteria Del Circo
Osteria Laguna
Otto
Ouest
P.J. Clarke's
Palm
Palma
Pampano
Paola's
Paradou
Park Avenue Café
Park Bistro
Park Terrace Bistro
Pastis
Payard
Pearl Oyster Bar
Peasant
Peking Duck House
Pellegrino's
Pepolino
Per Se -- *** -- 5 couverts red
Periyali
Persepolis
Petrosino
Petrossian
Phoenix Garden
Picasso
Piccolo Angolo
Picholine -- * -- 3 couverts black
Pietro's
Ping's Seafood
Pipa
Place, The
Po
Pongal
Pongsri Thai
Porcupine
Post House
Prune
Public
Pure Food and Wine
Quatorze Bis
Raffaele
Raoul's
Red Cat
Remi
Rene Pujol
Riingo
Rocking Horse
Rosa Mexicano
Rothmann's
Roy's New York
Sachiko's on Clinton
Salt
San Domenico NY
San Pietro
Sapa
Sapphire
Sarabeth's
Sardi's
Savore
Savoy
Scaletta
Scalini Fedeli -- * -- 3 couverts black
Schiller's Liquor Bar
Second Avenue Deli
SEO
Sette Mezzo
Sevilla
Shaan of India
Shaburi
Shaffer City
Shanghai Pavilion
Shun Lee Palace
Siam Inn
Silverleaf Tavern
Smith & Wollensky
Snack
Soba Ya
Solo
Sparks Steak House
Spice Market
Spigolo
Spotted Pig -- * -- 1 couvert black
Stanton Social
Strip House
Suba
Suenos
Sugiyama
Sunrise 27
Surya
Sushi Ann
Sushi of Gari
Sushi Seki
Sushi Yasuda
Sushi Zen
Sushiden
Sushiya
Sweet-n-Tart Restaurant
Tabla
Table XII
Tamarind
Tao
Taormina
Taste
Tasting Room
Teodora
Thaiso'n
Thalia
The Capital Grille
The Harrison
The Manhattan Ocean Club
The Mermaid Inn
The Modern -- * -- 3 couverts black
The Sea Grill
The Steakhouse at Monkey Bar
Tocqueville
Tomoe Sushi
Town
Trata Estiatorio
Trattoria Dell' Arte
Triangolo
Tribeca Grill
Trio
Triomphe
Tropica
Turkish Kitchen
Tuscan Square
Union Square Café
V Steakhouse
Va Tutto
Vatan
Vento
Veritas -- * -- 2 couverts black
ViceVersa
Vivolvo
Vong -- * 2 -- couverts black
Wallsé -- * -- 2 couverts black
Water Club
WD-50 -- * -- 2 couverts black
Wolfgang's Steakhouse
Wondee Siam II
Woo Lae Oak
Xing
Yama
Yangpyung Seoul
Zarela
Zebu Grill
Zoë
Zutto
Brooklyn
Al Di La
Applewood
Areo
Banania Café
Blue Ribbon Sushi
Chestnut
DuMont
Elia
Five Front
Garden Café
Henry's End
Locanda Vini & Olii
Noodle Pudding
Osaka
Pearl Room
Peter Luger -- * -- 1 couvert black
Queen
Quercy
River Café
Saul -- * -- 2 couverts black
Savoia
Sea
Stone Park Café
The Grocery
Tuscany Grill
Bronx
Riverdale Garden
Roberto's Restaurant
Queens
718 Restaurant
Bann Thai
Brick Café
Jackson Diner
KumGanSan
Malagueta
Piccola Venezia
Sapori D'Ischia
Sripraphai
Taverna Kyclades
Tournesol
Trattoria L'Incontro
Water's Edge
Staten Island
Aesop's Tables
American Grill
Carol's Café
The Parsonage
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I don't know for sure, but I would be surprised if it is possible to purchase "regular supermarket milk" that hasn't come from cows that have been treated with rBGH.
If one is avoiding rBGH milk (which just so happens to come from industrial megafarms) and also doesn't choose organic simply for the sake of being organic (thus eliminating non-local organic megafarms), that equals a preference for local small farm milk.
Homemade (Infused) Grappa
in Spirits & Cocktails
Posted
Grappa is typically fairly high in alcohol, so you shouldn't have any spoilage problems. Just make sure you take the stuff out of the grappa after achieving the flavor you want (and obviously you can't put in so much watery flavoring ingredients like apples that the alcoholic strength is diluted).
Most infused grappa I've had has been a relatively straightforward herbal infusion, which is the traditional way: rue, licorice root, that sort of thing. If you're going to do something like an apple, vanilla and cinnamon infusion, I think you're wasting your money on grappa (which isn't cheap in the US). Better to do it in a bottle of vodka or overproof rum. Nardini is one of the less expensive brands, for example, and you're still talking 40 bucks a liter.