Nevan

You might try calling Liner & Elsen in Portland: 800-903-WINE. About a year ago I called a few Portland stores to see what they had in the way of BC icewines and was told that there were basically only two labels available in Oregon, one was Inniskillin and I cannot for the life of me remember the other one. When I was recently in BC some producers told me that they have a very hard time getting any wines into the Oregon market. It was never clear to me just quite why. I did bring back a pinot noir icewine, which I haven't tried yet, but am planning to this summer.

Ohhhh . . . that is good! RhOre-a-Gon!! I love it! (I'd put a big laughing emoticon here, but I can't figure out how to do it) And you're right, we're already beginning to see some Rhone-style wines. As well as new Italian varietals and Spanish varietals and even Portugese varietals. Soon we'll be the poster state for vinous diversity!

Many Oregon winemakers like to say in one breath that they're not like Burgundy (Ken Wright makes his wines to be consumed within 3-5 years, very un-Burgundy) but that they are like Burgundy (Ken Wright makes his wines to show the terroir . . . a word he doesn't like to use . . . of each vineyard he buys from, very Burgundy-like). Some of this, IMHO, is a lack of confidence that they can produce AND SELL a purely Oregonian wine, that reflects the nature of this climate and soil and doesn't make any pretense at comparison to Burgundy or anywhere else. Ironically, one winemaker who is very much trying to make wine that reflects purely Oregon aspects is Veronique Drouhin. She can talk more knowledgeably about what makes Oregon pinot different from anywhere else . . . and she rarely tries to compare it to Burgundy (she's also learned to use vineyard and winemaking techniques that work for Oregon and not Burgundy, so she doesn't just transplant her French model here). I say let Oregon be Oregon and who cares how it compares to Burgundy . . . In the "good times" some Oregon winemakers decided they could make a run at Burgundy pricing (and therefore market acceptance/credibility). Patty Green released the first $100 bottle at Torii Mor (1998 Quail Hill, 25 cases), and was quickly followed by Archery Summit et. al. I think the highest release price I ever saw was $125. That was then; this is now. There are still a few--very few--$100 releases, but they are not economic and are done for prestige factors. The ones I've tasted (then and now) are not worth their price at all. And, yes, there is an awful lot of extra juice going begging. New negociant labels are showing up, and just like in France, the quality of the wine is dependent on the quality of the blender/bottler. A to Z is good value, EIEIO is good value, Goosehorn is iffy, etc. This isn't just an Oregon issue, though, it is all part of the same market shift based on excess supply and insufficient demand . . . any wonder there is the Two Buck Chuck phenomenon? And besides negociant labelling, there are also big wineries who have excess wine who are putting out third and fourth labels that disguise their involvement and dump the wine really cheaply to chain stores. And frankly, there are a whole bunch of people who buy wine on price alone, so this tactic moves the juice. And, yes, it means some bad times for Oregon pinot noir, vintages aside . . . at least the high quality stuff that legitimately costs a lot to make and which should carry a premium price. In California alone there are more pinot noir vines going in the ground in the next two years than exist in all of Oregon today. No wonder you see Ken Wright, Lynn Penner-Ash, Argyle, Domaine Serene, Westrey and others starting to make Cabernet sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Meunier, zinfandel, and loads of Syrah. Actually, the best stories in Oregon right now--and some of the best wine values--are in varietals other than pinot noir!

I am no fan of the Spectator for a variety of reasons, but I still say their coverage of Oregon this year gave overdue attention to some good new winemakers. Which is a relief from the contsant market attention on the tried-and-true producers, including Archery Summit--no matter how good and reliable they may be. Not to knock AS. I love their wines and I enjoy the people there. But the "story" in Oregon is elsewhere! Archery Summit is, what can I say, the summit of Pinot noir in Oregon--both in price and quality. They have their detractors (they use gobs of new oak and have a plush style) but for a complex, satisfying, and excellent wine, they are hard to beat (but hard to swallow at the prices they charge). As the Spectator described, when Gary Andrus left (he is back in Oregon, by the way, but not associated with AS), the winemaking duties passed to Sam Tannahill, who had been his assistant. Sam is an extremely knowledeagble and able winemaker who has spent time in burgundy and is great at combining technical knowledge with the craft side of winemaking. He is now working with Bill Hatcher on a value negotiant-style label called A to Z, and has his fingers in a numbner of piess, er, vineyards (Sam is also married to Cheryl Francis who makes the superb wines from Chehalem--I wonder what their dinner conversation is like?). But Sam soon left Archery Summit and after an in-depth search, Anna Matziger became the winemaker. The official story, and it makes sense, is that Anna had unique experience with the estate fruit, and that the other candidates simply didn't "know Oregon" like her. Anna doesn't have quite the depth of experience that some had expected for AS, but she is highly focused and very familiar with every lot in the Archery Summit vineyards. I think she has proven to be a good choice. I've tasted all the 2000s (Sam's wines) and all the 2001s in barrel (Anna's wines) that are now being released. I haven't yet tasted the 2002s in barrel, but am looking forward to it. Despite some carping from the sidelines by a bunch of folks, I don't think the quality has fallen off at all. I did find the 2001s marginally "rougher" than the 2000s, but the Arcus, Estate, Red Hills, and Premier Cuvee releases were still superb (the Renegade Ridge label is rather tannic and too earthy). I've always been a fan of the Red Hills, and I am certain that this wine has not diminshed in quality at all. Great stuff . . . if you can afford it!

Every year 'round about May the Wine Spectator does its little round-up of Oregon's wine scene. Mr. Steiman comes up, tastes and tours, and writes his story. I suspect this year he went out to Argyle (and Ponzi, et.al.) and discovered that, yup, they're still great (even though he gave relative short shrift to the pinots)! But there's not much of a story there; he's already done that. Of course they're still great: they have a vineyard and winemaking team that just have it knocked--they know what they are doing year in and year out. So my guess is that he decided to turn the soil one layer deeper and spread his largess to the generally newer/smaller/younger winemakers working here. Good for him: I think he picked some of the right ones. In the past WS has emphasized DDO, Ken Wright, Ponzi, Argyle, Elk Cove . . . all rather obvious and somewhat easy choices (and all still very worthy). But Scott Shull (to name one of this year's profilees)? Not an obvious or easy choice. . . but a right one! Good for Spectator in bringing some of these folks to a broader audience . . . it's about time! Switching gears somewhat, I need help. The charms of the oft' extolled Sokol Blosser have generally escaped me. They've got a great site, a nice big sign on Hwy 99, an impressive music lineup, and from what I have had, extremely . . . nice . . . wines. I'll admit to having a more spotty tasting history of SB, and so would be interested in learning what wines to try so I can get a better sense of what gets others so excited. Thanks! -nevan

Hi Craig: See if you can get to taste the most recent two vintages of Domaine Serene chardonnay: I think you'll find them very different from 4 years ago. The vines have more age on them, the winemaker is more focused on them, and the character of the chardonnays has taken leaps forward. Domaine Serene's 2000 Etoile Vineyard chard is very good, but I find the Cote Sud Vineyard to be excellent. Strong and flavorful fruit, excellent bright structure, little or no oak, Dijon Clone (which means earlier ripening in the cool Willamette Valley climate--though that hasn't been a problem the last 4 or 5 vintages) and a different flavor set than the older chard clones. I think Domaine Serene is in the top five Oregon wineries producing a whole new generation of chardonnay. I haven't yet had the 2001s, but I am really looking forward to their 2002 chardonnay because the vintage was so great and they were really pleased with the fruit coming into the winery. We'll see!

I'd say keep checking in on Domaine Serene's chardonnays. Winemaker Tony Rynders is part of a small group of other wineries focused on upping the ante in Oregon chard . . . and it isn't just about Dijon clones. By the way, what was the last DS chard you had? As for other excellent Oregon pinots, here's my picks: 2000 Bethel Heights Southeast Block Reserve (big aromas of flowey potpourri and spice cake combined with crushed mixed berries; forceful black cherry fruitiness in the mouth, hints of chocolate ans seeet spice; fine grained tannins) $40 (typical for small lot, hand made, low yield OR pinots, even in this economic climate). For me this was the wine of the vintage (with Cristom Louise, raptor Ridge Murto, and Domaine Drouhin not far behind). Here are a few others. 2000 Coleman Vineyard Reserve (warm spicy aormas of plum, dark cherries, blackberries and coffee; in the moputh lots of black fruit with cola, smoke, tobacco, and anise; nice balance, supple tannins) $34 Patty Green Cellars 2000 Bonshaw (elegant red cherry and raspberry fruit with a sense of warm earth, lilacs, vanilla and even basil . . . wonderfully balanced) $38 Lynn Penner-Ash again made a great pinot in 2000 (as well as 1999) (polished forward black vherry fruit with nuances of white pepper) $45. I could go on (you don't want to get me started). Killer bargain, if you can find any, is from a teensy little winery in the Applegate Valley (yes, the Applegate Valley) called The Academy. 2000 Pinot noir is incredibly clean (little or no oak), deep boysenberry core with blueberries surrounding, big cherry finish. All kinds of fruit . . . a really different pinot some will love some will think weird and turn up their noses. I love it . . . especially for $19. Other good values (low price, high flavor and character for the price, include Witness Tree Estate, Cameron Willamette valley, Benton-Lane . . . all 2000s . . . which is a very good vintage, though I liked 1999 better, and am really looking forward to 2002. Got to go . . . nevan

Hey, always glad to help! A few other quick thoughts that I mailed to Flocko. First, Oregon makes pinot noir best which also means it is expensive. There is a lot of low yield, hand-done growing/making that keeps the prices of the best pinots at $25 and above. Yup, not cheap. It doesn't mean we're all getting ripped off though. These winemakers really do (for the most part) focus on quality and they really do incurr the kind of costs that dictate these high prices (not nearly as many ego-driven extravagantly priced wines in OR as our good friends to the south like to make). Whether these more expensive wines are worth it is up to each individual (in my experience, many ARE worth it--if you've got the bucks, which I have less of now than a few years ago; like most everyone). The higher volume wineries can get the benefits of economies of scale, and can produce good (but rarely brilliant) wines for less money. Examples of good ones to visit are Duck Pond, Sokol Blosser, Willamette Valley Vineyards, and King Estates (further south). For the best VALUES in OR wines, I go to the whites. There are some tremendously good white wines made here right now (especially 2002 vintage), at excellent prices and without the price, pomp, and circumstance accompanying OR pinot. I look for the pinot gris, dry riesling, Dijon Clone chardonnay, and a few select viogniers. Above all, it's just plain fun to taste through what a winery's got . . . no matter what they make! -Nevan

There are no shortage of interesting wineries to visit in the North Willamette Valley, large and small, good and bad. You mentioned you will be in Salem, and you also mentioned Argyle. There's a bit of driving to be done between Salem and Dundee, where Argyle is. Assuming you have a bit of time, and that you are willing, you should try to plan out a tour. First thing to do is get a copy of Vintage Oregon, which is a free booklet put out by the Oregon Wine Advisory Board. It gives maps, opening hours, etc. can can be received by mail thru their website (www.oregonwine.org) or picked up at any winery in the area. Here's a brief run down on some of what I think are the best bets, along with my own thumbnail sketch. In the Salem area, St. Innocent makes excellently priced, high quality wines, particularly single vineyard Pinot noirs. Mark Vlossak is one of the best winemakers in Oregon. I think his Seven Springs Vineyard Pinot is superb (great red fruit character, nice spicy underlay with an earthy edge that reminds me of burgundy), though Shea (polished, velvety) and Temerpance Hill (tighter, less color, more minerals) are consistently good as well. They are usually open on weekends. Call 503-378-1526. The Eola Hills region just to the west of Salem is home to some excellent wineries, and gets you onto Highway 99 which you can take north to the Dundee area (where Argyle is). Two of the best in the Eola Hills are Cristom and Bethel Heights--both specialize in (but are not limited to) pinot. Cristom (503-375-3068) makes wonerful-to-truly-great pinot. Their reserve blend (concentrated red fruits with healthy but not overpowering wood) is one of the best in the state, and often overlooked. It is very consistent and does well with a couple of years bottle age. I love their Jessie Vineyard pinot--great spice, taut fruit--but almost all of them are excellent. 2000 was a superb vintage for pinot here, and they may still have some for you to taste, though I think they are on to 2001, which is more variable region-wide, but when good (and Cristom's are good) can be excellent. Bethel-Heights (503-581-2262) also does superb pinots, though they are known for a more austere, less fruit-bomb style. I personally think their 2000 Southeast Block Reserve was the single best Oregon pinot of 2000 (big dusky aromas, forceful black cherry fruit, chocolate, and sweet spice), but they are probably sold out . . . so maybve they have the 2001 version released? Also look for their Flat Block reserve and Wadensvil cuvees. They also do a decent pinot gris, pinot blanc, and a new Syrah. Witness Tree Vineyards is also located right close by these two, and their pinots can be very good value. If you have the time, stop in (you'll see the signs). Moving north from the Eola Hills on 99W you'll come to McMinnville, and if you continue on you'll reach Dundee. This is where you'll find Argyle. Certainly Argyle (503-538-8520) makes the best sparkling wine in the area (though Soter Vineyards is making some absolutely killer sparkling, but still in very small quantities and doesn't have the range of Argyle . . but if you see a botle of Soter you might pick it up). I personally think Argyle's Blanc de blancs, Julia Lee's Block is quite exceptional, the best in Oregon--check to see if they have any available). Argyle is also one of the wineries focusing on Dijon clone chardonnay and you should check that out at the tasting room (winemaker Rollin Soles is part of a small group focusing on low-to-no oak, crisply structured and forwardly fruity chards, breaking the mold for Oregon chard). And, as if that weren't enough, Rollin also makes four different pinots that are consistently superb (I tend to favor their Nuthouse pinot . . . but that may be because that's where my wife says she found me). When you are done at Argyle you might go across the street to the Ponzi Wine Bar. A young guy named Thomas runs the place for the Ponzi family (one of the oldest winemaking families in Oregon) and he and his staff are extremely knowledgeable and friendly. There is usually a good selection of wines to sample, and some very good food. This is a big hangout for the winemakers (though not usually on weekends, especially in the summer) and if you hang out you can pick up some good gosspi/tips. Also in the immediate Dundee area are a few wineries of note. Erath--a pioneering Oregon label--is up the road from Dundee, in the hills. You pass some famous Oregon vineyards and the view is quite nice (from the top on a clear day you can see Mt. Hood very nicely over the rolling vineyards). I'm not a huge fan of Erath's wines right now, though they are improving, but they do have a good variety and they are well made. There is also the Lange winery (503-538-6476), which you get to by a winding gravel road. They have been making wine here for a long time and are extremely friendly and have a wonderful view of the valley. Don Lange pioneered oak fermented pinot gris (thick, lush, fruity), and that is definietly worth a try. Their Freedom Hill pinot is always good (coffee grounds, earth, dust, black cherry fruit), but usually requires ageing. The drive is worth it, though, for the experience and the variety of wines they offer. There is also the Torii Mor tasting room on the same road. Torii Mor has made some great wines in the past, and their 2000 pinots are pretty good (big-fruited, lots of cherry and blackberry, soft and tasty), though pricey. They make a nice pinot blanc--one of the few that actually seems to have a point to it. Outside of Dundee, but nearby, are two of the biggies in Oregon: Domaine Drouhin Oregon and Archery Summit. Each of these wineries requires a call ahead and a fee to tour . . . but you get to taste some of the best pinot noir around. Archery Summit (800-732-8822) is the more architecturally interesting, and the folks there do a great job on the tour. The pours are generous and the wines are superb, though very expensive (lush red cherry fruit, lots of well integrated oak, great structure, layers of complexity). I like the Red Hills best (additional mineral in the terroir), but most seem to prefer Arcus (forward red fruit married to coffee grounds and toasty wood). Their wines have in the last few years been the standard of quality for many people. DDO (503-864-2700) has recently opened to the public. Scott (general manager) or Tony (hospitality manager) usually give the tours--both great guys who are extremely knowledgeable. Again, you will get superb wines, and wonderful views. The regular DDO pinot (all their pinots are estate fruit) is superb (lean, nicely acidic, blackish fruit), the Laurene is wonderful (bigger, more character--a blend of the best barrels) and if there is still some left, the newly released (something like 75 cases total production) Louise is by far the best pinot of DDOs I've had (except, perhaps one or two of the very first ones) and is only available at the winery. Also try the chardonnay: Dijon clone and quite nicely crisp and fruity (no oak and butter here). If you have time, you also should visit Carlton, a small town a couple of miles from Dundee. There's a slew of wineries in this area. I won't go into more detail since this is already a way-over-the-top post. I will give one pitch, though, and that is for The Tasting Room in Carlton. They carry wines from wineries that aren't open to the public (big names like Beaux Freres, and small newcomers like Bergstrom, Brooks, J. Christopher). The folks are knowledgeable--if eccentric--and it can be a great place to taste (for a fee; it is not a museum) and learn. Oh yeah., there is WillaKenzie too. Nice wines, nice view. You're going to need a map to get there. OK, that's enough said. Almost. You're going at a good time. Some of the 2001s will be released and they should be quite good (though the 2002s in barrel are absolutely killer). Hope this helps!! If you need more, holler.

I just discovered this very serendipitous thread! Yesterday, yes yesterday, I was delivered my two 3-lbs rolls from Pork Roll Xpress and it is only the second time in perhaps 10 years that I have had this wonderful childhood treat. Even the hint that it might be available in the Portland area has my mouth watering. I grew up outside of Chicago, but my parents were from Philly and all my childhood Taylor's Ham, as we called it, was the single most special food treat we could have. And we rarely had it. Wherever I travel I keep my eye open for hints of the plump fabric-covered rolls. Last month I was in Seattle with my wife and saw the most amazing thing: Taylor Pork Roll on display. My excited utterances were greeted with indifference by my wife, who protested when I tried to buy the store's entire remaining stock. In the end I got two 1-lb. (a MEASLY 1-lb) rolls, one for me and one for my sister. Since then I found Pork Roll Xpress and am finally feeling satiated. My wife thinks the stuff is just glorified Spam. I actively encourage her in this belief. Thanks for the great recipies . . . I'll try them, but mostly I'll just savor the stuff by itself, sitting on the back deck in the sun, watching the river flow by . . .

Hello Claude: I'm wondering, do you mean "McKinley?" His wines are certainly hard to find, and in my experience good to great in quality, but distinctively, well, distinctive--he's a bit of a character and so are his wines. I saw that he was at the event Monday night, but I didn't get to his wines in time. Yes, price is a major issue here. As I mentioned in another post, some of it is purely because of the intensive and expensive farming and winemaking that is pretty much the norm--so likely we will always be on the high side, especially because only a precious few wineries here have the economies of scale to bring to market decent quantities of inexpensive wines. But that doesn;t explain all of the pricing. Just like the big national magazines are still full of ads today for Rolex watches and Viking ranges, so some of our wineries continue to markt $65-$100 pinots! Some of our winemakers need a little more of that hubris stuff! Even so, I can tell you for a fact most winemakers here are definitely sensitive about pricing issues. Some producers of great quality have rather reasonable prices: Patricia Green cellars, Broadley (on futures), Cristom, Evesham Wood, Westrey, Bethel Heights all rush to mind. -Nevan

I'm beginning to doubt the wisdom of holding special bottles for special occasions. I bought a bottle of 1974 Heitz Martha's Vineyard at the winery on a post-graduation tour of Napa around 1976. I cherished it in various cellar versions over the years until the greatest of occasions, Millennium night, spending it with my bride of three months. Got it up from the cellar and immediately knew something was wrong when the cork came waaaay too easily. Great vinegar, though. The next bottle was 1972 Diamond Creek Red Rock Terrace, also bought around 1976. Also completely ruined. Finally setted for an Opus One from I-forget-what-vintage, but by that time the specialness had gone and all I was doing was depleting my limited set of "special occasion" wines pretty much for the sake of having a special wine for a special occasion. I've got some nice bottles laying around, but I don't really "save" them like I used to. Still, I've got a 50th coming up in 2 years and my wife is already asking "What wine will you want to drink?" -Nevan

Thank you, Robin! Your comments are helpful, and makes me feel a bit better about a nagging sense I've had in the past that I wasn't quite "getting" everything in the few comparatibe port tastings I've had. I appreciate the recommendations! -Nevan

So, on the issue of port, since, as has been pointed out, young ports tend to be very tannic, what qualities should I look for in young ports that will tell me they have better potential (besides the Parker/Tanzer/Spectator points)? I suppose by definition the declaration of a vintage port year kind of eliminates some degree of vintage variation risk, but even though a declared vintage should be "good" by definition, each producer will have better and worse wine. When tasting the young ones, what should I be looking for? I love port, but have never had that much of it in my cellar--mostly an issue of affording what I like best. Many years ago I found a display of 1970 Dow's at a long gone Liquor Barn in Palo Alto, CA for $17.00 a bottle. Even then a great bargain. I gathered together what loose cash I had and purchased the one remaining case . . . which I am still enjoying. By far the best port I ever had was 1994 Grahams . . . drunk way to young, I know, but it was a gift that needed to be sampled with the giver. I'm about ready to sink some more cash into good port, and the recommendations on this string have been great. But not having enough recent tasing experience am looking for the wisdom of others in helping me understand what I should be detecting when tasting . . . -Nevan

Oohh, big step . . . a total eGullet newbie (this what, my third posting?) and I'm starting a new topic?!? Craig Camp suggested that I post notes from a visit to Vintage Oregon trade/public tasting held in Portland last night. So, OK! And, I thought it might kick-off some Oregon wine discussion . . .? Anybody? While it was no Taste Washington (about 1/10th the size), Vintage Oregon was a congenial affair. Food pairing highlights included Dungeness and Pinot gris and Painted Hills Beef and Pinot noir--though there were at least a dozen other good offerings to be had. About 40 wineries poured . . . some of the biggies were missing, but some of the best quality wines were still there . . . plus a couple of just-getting-started ventures. The whole thing felt like a family affair--which is good and bad. Good because the atmosphere was friendly, but bad because that friendliness was mostly due to the fact that most attendees were trade--there simply weren't enough public attendees and that IS bad. My personal favorite wines were as follows (not in order of preference but in order of tasting). >Hamacher 2000 Chardonnay. WOW! Fruity, flinty, bright and vivacious. Better than his '99. Probably the best of the vintage (and I can say that having just also tasted through about 45 other '00 Chards). One local writer told me it was the closest OR Chard to burgundy he's ever had. Hard to arugue against! >Holloran 2000 Riesling. Best Riesling I've had in awhile from PNW. His '99 was killer too. Best thing about it is it is D-R-Y, and T-A-R-T, but with great fruit and a pleasing weight in the mouth. Minerals and flowers! Beats the underwear off the thin off-dry Rieslings so many folks like to make (I guess because so many folks still like to drink them). Bill Holloran says just wait, he's got some new vineyards producing fruit he thinks is even better (some old vine, some new vine). OR Riesling is today where OR Chards were 7 years ago (i.e., out of fashion, generally high yield and off-dry) . . . but this Riesling is where OR could go in the future. >Broadley '01 Claudia's Choice Pinot noir. Bodacious sweet fruit is clearly focused, with a great floral overlay on the nose and tongue. The wine has a nicely viscous mouth feel with some light cocoa overtones to the plump blackberry fruit. REALLY drinking well right now. It's always been a favorite, but seems even more so now (and the '02 in barrel might even be better). >Torii Mor Pinot blanc (ok, so how can you not jump between reds and whites at an event like this?). Uncutous texture and fruit (ML? Wood?) makes the wine feel heavy, but with some great vanilla and ripe peach flavors. Some OR blancs are finally getting there. For a different style (more austere but still very fruity) I also liked the Amity p. blanc a lot. >Lemelson. All three of the '00 pinot's were really tasty. Thea's Selection is meant for more current drinking. Lots of blue and black fruits with hints of coffee. Soft tannins, but the overall structure and balance were very pleasing. Stermer Vineyard was stouter, with similar fruit character but more acid, and very flavorful (a bit weightier in the mouth). Jerome Reserve was the ageworthy big brother in this batch. Strong tannins, but not out of balance to the big mostly blackberry and plum fruit. Some black pepper and spice, could it be cardamom? >Raptor Ridge. They were carefully pouring their sold-out '00 Murto Vineyard Pinot noir, which is a wonderfully supple and fruit-sweet pinot, but most folks wanted their Shea Vineyard (it's gotten some good ratings and write ups), which was quite elegant, with velvety texture, dark red cherries, earth, and a sense of roses on the nose. >Coleman Vineyard. Their '00 Reserve Pinot noir was one of the best of the vintage (now, they tell me, all gone). The '01 Pinot Reserve was a bit tight, but showed good balance and controlled fruit with some grounding spice notes--needs a bit more time, but seems as if all the good stuff is there. There were lot's of others, but those stood out for me . . . at least last night! One last note. I talked with Steve Vuylsteke, general manager at Erath. He was naturally glad to have the Gaiter & Brecher article pick their Pinot as one of the best in their "under $20" Pinot roundup . . . but he was naturally a bit sad that it was a 1998 they reviewed. "People are calling wanting it," he said, "and of course we don't have it any more!" Apparently, though, some bottle shops do! Anybody else had any good Oregon wines lately?? -Nevan

Ahh, a VERY good question! Ask the Oregon Pinotmakers, and they'll tell you they are selling all the wine they make, thank you very much. Go to the store shelves, however, and you can today find bottles from the most usually-hard-to-get wineries . . . bottles you couldn't possibly find at retail two years ago. Despite the protestations (and believe me, they can be defensive about it) most winemakers here are seeing market resistance for their higher priced Pinots. However, it has ALWAYS been the case that better grape lots, often from single vineyard designated sites, frequently find their way into WV or OR blends. Sometimes the winemaker is going for a particular style with their XYZ Vineyard bottling, and some of the lots don't quite fit, so they go into the blend. Sometimes the quantities don't balance out. There are a lot of reasons, not all of them economic. I think there may be more of this going on today because of the grape glut, but generally I think these folks are still focusing on their top wines and dedicate the top grapes to them. Despite the high prices (or what today seem high) it probably still makes the best economic sense to put as much of the expensive grapes into the expensive bottles as possible, even if it takes two to three times as long to sell it out (luckily, some of the prices are beginning to come down, and a few of the really best producers are now selling their wines quite reasonably . . . at least comapred to two years ago!) -Nevan (Now I'm off to Vintage Oregon in Portland tonight--a 3 hour drive for me--40 wineries pouring, should be fun)

Value in wine is such a moving target that it's difficult to reply easily to what seems like such an easy question. What is good value to one person at $10 is utter dreck to another. In the case of Oregon Pinot noirs two factors are important to consider before I give you my opinionated answer! First, you tend to get what you pay for in Oregon Pinot, grape glut not withstanding. Most producers here incur great costs in the way they farm (frequently organic, often dry, always severely limited yields, usually hand-positioned shoots, etc.) and the way they vinify (keeping individual vineyard lots separate, extended cold soaks, hand punching, new oak, etc.) because their reputation is usually focused on producing the best possible Pinot. When an Oregon Pinot is priced, say, below $20, the winemaker often has to sacrifice some element in the quality regime in order to have a decent quantity to sell at a decent price. Getting that balance right can be tough. Consequently (though, of course, not always) most "value" priced Oregon Pinots will deliver a different wine experience than a "premium" priced Pinot. Where the dividing line is for each person is quite different! And then there's the question of style. Some like big fruit bombs that make you wonder if you're drinking a Pinot or a Syrah, while others like a high-toned elegant style that makes you wonder what kind of food you need to bring out the wine's best character. So which style offers the best value? Who knows? OK, sorry but I felt I had to say all that. Too frequently I have recommended good value Oregon pinot to someone who either 1) compared it to a $45 bottle and was disappointed, or 2) liked a fruit bomb when I recommended an austere wine, and was disappointed! And then there's the whole thing about vintage variation . . . ok, I drone on! Don't EVEN get me started on Oregon pinot . . .! Now, all that being said, I think there are some great value Pinots here (and more and more all the time, thanks to the great grape glut) . . . but again there's the issue that they often aren't easily available in many markets (though they almost always can be bought from the winery, depending on the state you're in(!)). Here's what I tend to drink when I want a good Pinot for, say, under $20 (in no order of preference): Elk Cove Vineyards, Willamette Valley (great fruit, good structure, pretty well distributed usually quite consistent vintage to vintage) A to Z, Willamette Valley (a new negociant-style Pinot that is tasty and well made, though perhaps not yet easy to find, I don't know) EIEIO (another negociant . . . produces 3 different styles (E, I, and O) at different prices points for different palates) Bethel Heights, Willamette Valley (nice structured style, usually with lots of estate and single vineyard fruit; I found it at a Washington DC restaurant one Christmas evening when I was stranded there . . . like a little bit of home!) King Estate, Oregon (good basic Pinot at a good basic price, usualy quite well distributed) Willamette Valley Vineyards Estate Reserve (usually great fruit) Bridgeview, Oregon (always a great price, sometimes a little variable in taste, but usually excellent value) Benton-Lane, Willamette Valley (widely distributed, highly reliable) Cameron, Willamette Valley (smaller producer, great taste) Witness Tree, Willamette Valley (ditto) And yeah, sure, I'd include Erath in that bunch as well! -Nevan

For an Oregonian Pinotphile, the good news of the WSJ Tasting review of Pinots is that the Erath Pinot earned great marks. The bad news is that (in my opinion) the Erath wine is one of the more average Pinots from Oregon--even for the price range--and, as a 1998 vintage (a very low yield, highly concentrated vintage), has been long supplanted by more recent releases. One key thing to keep in mind about the Tastings column is that the wines must be widely available on the east coast. Most Oregon Pinots aren't. Even the more value priced ones are usually made in quantities that, while high for Oregon, seem boutique-sized when compared with California's output. This is too bad because our best wines are usually missed! Gaiter & Brecher make a great point about better quality grapes finding their way into lower priced wines. In Oregon this is especially true. Most Pinot makers here bottle different tiers. When a few lots from their top line don't quite make the cut, they usually get blended into their "Willamette Valley" or "Oregon" blends. The result is that these much better priced wines often contain grapes from single vineyards that are usually only available at high prices. The end result is a better wine for a lesser price. What's not to like? Hey, thanks for the opportunity to make my first post on eGullet!!