I apologize in advance for lacking both the eloquence and the experience that the two "Steve's" posses - both of which to whom I am particularily responding. I have sufficiently been moved by the ongoing debate on whether or not Craft is dull and if CraftBar is worth the trip to input my two bits. I am a cook from North Carolina with some (very) limited experience working in New York kitchens and some not so limited experience eating in NYC. On my last trip to the city I took the time to visit both places of current debate. I was, at first, extremely excited by the prospect of Chef Collichio trudging out on his own to open a restaurant. I had appreciated the food from GT on several occasions and have adopted cooking styles and philosophies from Collichio. I found his food at GT to posses a certain amount of "soul". Although crowded, big, and bustling I found GT of top notch concerning food, wine and service. Not challenging but satisfying and generally interesting. So there I was at Craft...excited to be eating Colicchio's food pared down to the minimum. I ate cured arctic char, simply dressed aruguula, and a steamed toffee pudding. All were excellant (if not quite expensive), fresh, and delicious. I, however, couldn't help feeling like I was at Disneyland. There is a certain amount of production of the dining room - the leather tiles, the exposed bulbs, the chain male in the (non-temperature controlled) wine racks...that give the place a sterile feel. It attempts to have tons of character, but it is all highly produced making it, well, dull. I felt that the food was delicious, that I cannot argue with. But it was nothing exciting...there was no edge to it, no grit, no soul. It is commonly agreed that you can hide flaws behind flashy designed food, and a mediocre sauce. But there is nothing to argue with when a plate of lemon juice and olive oil dressed arugula is placed in front of you. There is nothing exciting or paricularily challenging about eating some gravlax cured arctic char. I left feeling not satisfied. Was there something wrong? NO. Could I really complain to the floor manager that my food lacked soul? NO. I just left feeling poor, and uninspired. I understand the concept of Craft. I know that it is supposed to offer pristine ingredients cooked to perfection unadorned and left open to "craft" a meal out of many choices. I think that it succeeds in its mission-it just so happens that its mission is dull. The CraftBar is a bit more exciting, and decidedly more gentle on the bank account. I found the fried oysters, paired with pickeled fennel and preserved lemon to be absolutely delicious and the selection of bruschettas to be quite satisfying. His pared down food works better as "pub grub" than in the arena of fine dining. I would recommend CraftBar over its mother. I am also beginning to wonder if Colicchio feels as though he missed some of the empire building that many of his peers have taken advantage of...GT, Craft, CraftBar, a line of imported Italian goods, and next CraftSteak to open in Las Vegas. Could it all add to dullness and overproduction? Well...now that I have rambled sufficiently please read and comment... Perry
