Florida Jim

August 4, 2003

Jim you decanted the Pommard! What a heretic!

Ture, but I had tasted it several times previous and knew what to expect.

It came 'round nicely.

Penance tomorrrow.

Best, Jim

July 31, 2003

With turkey meat loaf:

1996 Drouhin, Pommard:

initially tight on the nose and acidic on the attack/

with about an hour in the decanter, the nose was black cherry and slate, and the palate echoed it with moderate concentration, solid structure and bright flavors; the finish was of medium length with gradually fading fruit.

This was one of those silly deals where, as the distributor’s rep. brought it into my local retailer I redirected him to my car. The retailer, noting that he had been saved shelf space and the need to hand sell, cut me a nice deal. Right place, right time. About $12, at release.

With bruschetta with melted fresh mozzarella, arugala pesto and olive oil:

1998 Thomas, Pinot Noir:

This producer makes wine that simply is not for everyone. But they are distinctive; they do not mimic any other terroir I am aware of nor are they made to any formula. And sometimes, they miss. But not this time.

The nose on the ’98 opened to the characteristic gunpowder aroma with both red and black fruit and a bit of mineral, backing. On the palate, it tightened up over the period of about two hours open, beginning with light bodied and lacey red fruit and mineral flavors and ending with tannin laden black fruit with some earth tones. The gunpowder of the nose carries lightly to the palate and there is even a hint of it on the medium length, somewhat astringent finish. Quite structured. IMO, this needs another 4-5 years. About $30, delivered on release.

With a summer vegetable casserole with ricotta custard:

1998 Hamacher, Pinot Noir:

Another of my favorite producers from OR, this vintage is at full song. Exquisitely ripe and pure black cherry scents and flavors dominate with hints of spice and earth; everything is nicely integrated and the texture is finished silk. Some complexity, excellent concentration and perfect balance across the palate lead to a very long, powerfully flavored but effortless finish. A deeply flavored wine without a single edge or moment when its structure intrudes upon its fruit.

Just fabulous. About $30, delivered on release.

Best, Jim

July 24, 2003

Jim,
Was this a red wine or a white wine? Cherries and Muscadet cornfused me.

Red.

Best, Jim

July 24, 2003

With pasta in fresh tomato sauce with chicken:

2000 A. et P. de Villaine, Bourgogne Cote Chalonnaise “La Digoine”:

very lightly colored; 12.5% alcohol; floating sediment (a little cheese cloth took care of it)/

a bright cherry, rhubarb nose with a slight scent of fresh fish (not off-putting but very unusual and very similar to the sea-air scents I associate with Muscadet)/

light bodied but still concentrated and intense, becomes more black fruit on the palate with air and some mineral-salty flavors, crisp and almost crunchy acidity, good depth, excellent balance/

medium length, crisp finish.

An unusual nose but a delicious wine. It brought out the sweetness of the tomatoes in the red sauce and was texturally a good match. In league with the 2000, Lafarge, Bourgogne; elegant and flavorful.

Thanks John.

Best, Jim

July 23, 2003

By the way who imports this domaine?

Louis/Dressner

July 23, 2003

Sharp criticism for an old vine Gevrey. I have not tasted these wines - have you have similar experiences before with the domaine(?) or is this unusual?

Craig,

I should emphasize that there was nothing wrong with this wine. It was sound, varietally correct, forward, ripe and not over oaked. It just had no Gevrey character and therefore, I found it boring.

I find the producer inconsistent and given to using too much wood (although not on this wine). Not on my "short list" but not bad.

Best, Jim

July 23, 2003

Aperitif:

2000 Pieropan. Soave La Rocca:

Extremely ripe fruit that makes a full flavored, viscous wine with a fruit sweetness and a long finish. Excellent wine.

With a small green salad, roasted corn on the cob and a grilled sandwich of rosemary, black olive bread; grilled portabello, tomato, fresh mozzarella and arugala pesto:

2000 Sylvie Esmonin, Gevrey-Chambertin VV:

A simple, straight-forward, ripe pinot with no sense of place and little interest. Boring but pleasant. No grip or tannin showing.

2001 A. et P. de Villaine, Mercury Les Montots:

This wine was very lightly corked – and still it was twice the wine of the preceding one. Crunchy cherry and cranberry with nice earth tones and brightness throughout, The mustiness of the cork was noticeable but did not really intrude. A wine with good length, considerable punch and a crisp finish.

Best, Jim

July 22, 2003

With a soup made of chick peas, chicken, onion, carrot, spinach, lemon and tofu:

1999 Salomon, Pfaffenberg Riesling:

bleach-water, honey, flowers, minerals and apple juice on the nose; becomes more tropical with airing/

medium body, starts out quite crisp but smoothes a bit with time open, flavors follow the nose and undergo the same change, concentrated and elegant, lovely balance/

long, balanced finish.

A lovely wine with a graceful nature and clearly Austrian. It will only get better with time in the cellar.

About $15, on sale.

With assorted cheeses:

1990 Sullivan, Cabernet Sauvignon:

decanted off substantial sediment/

cassis and black fruit nose with overtones of pond water and sourwood/

full body, still somewhat tannic, flavors are ripe black fruit with a touch of earthiness, pretty smooth, concentrated and intense, balanced/

long, slightly drying finish.

In 13 years this has dropped a lot of tannin and smoothed out some but it lacks any real complexity or development. Good with the cheese.

About $35, (at release).

Best, Jim

July 15, 2003

I think these 2 examples (92- hard & angular 99 accesible after barely a quarter of an hour) exemplify these change in Ca wine making over the last decade. I read somewhere recently that the average time elapsed between purchase and consumption of a bottle of wine was four hours. So in that context which makes more sense?

And too, consider the new owners at Ravenswood. Joel may still be making, but he's not in charge of policy.

Best, Jim

July 14, 2003

I have some '97 I'm waiting on. Do you have any experience with that vintage of Pickberry?

Nope; 'sorry.

Best, Jim

July 14, 2003

1992 Ravenswood, Pickberry:

(65% merlot, 30% cabernet sauvignon, 5% cabernet franc)

For the last decade, this has been an angry wine. Angular, hard and so tannic it was all but undrinkable. I began to think the good Mr. Peterson had made a bad one.

But of course, that’s why he gets the big money.

Today, this is a wonderful wine.

The nose has a powerful smokey, black fruit aroma that seems a little hard or closed but on the palate this wine is well resolved, integrated, complex, ripe and has the texture of worsted cloth. Some very fine but sweet tannins persist and the finish is long, balanced and fruit filled.

I decanted this off substantial sediment and left it open for about four hours before drinking.

One mighty fine bottle.

About $35, full retail at release.

Best, Jim

July 13, 2003

Jim,
You should have served the Cote Rotie with the steaks and the Bordeaux with the cheese. Why did you buy '94 La Mission, anyway?

Mark,

I was not in charge of the order of service (someone else's home) but the La Mission was quite good albeit a bit woody on the nose. I did not want to give the impression it was bad, just that I did not care for the oaky nose.

It was texturally lovely and delicious on the palate.

But to answer your question, because it was cheap and I have great faith in the producer in almost any vintage.

Best, Jim

July 13, 2003

With bruschetta with tomato, onion, garlic topping:

2001 Henri Bourgeois, Puilly-Fume:

Standard grade sauvignon with no lack of fruit or crisp. Very nice with the dish.

With grilled salmon (for the non-meat eaters) and grilled rib-eye steaks:

1998 Rochioli, Pinot Noir Estate:

Overwhelming oak on the nose and palate when opened; with air the wood dissipates and the sweet, somewhat simple fruit takes over. Nice length and good concentration, but nothing to write home about.

1994 La Mission Haut Brion:

Oaky,dill-ish nose with solid scents of the earth, ripe fruit and nice mineral scents; evolves on the palate to fine mineral, red-fruit, spice and earth tones with good concentration and balance, some very fine tannins; medium long finish. Pleasant, recognizable Bordeaux with a bit of time ahead of it.- good with the steak.

With sliced cheese:

1999 Guy Bernard, Cote-Rotie:

Wow! Terrific stuff on both the nose and palate with plenty of Northern Rhone character, solid red fruit and fine structure; endless flavors with balance only a ballerina knows. A spectacular showing – if this gets better with time, it will be hard to believe.

Best, Jim

July 11, 2003

Jim - do you think the oak will every resolve on the 97 Barolo? I am not optomistic about the oaky 97's I have tasted.

Craig,

I have not nearly enough experience with the regions to predict what the oak will do in either Barolo or Barbaresco.

I will say that this was not a species of dill nor was it overwhelming vis-a-vis the wine. But it was obvious.

Best, Jim

July 10, 2003

1995 Laurel Glen, Sonoma Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon:

Smelled and tasted like a barrel sample for about ten minutes. Then it tightened up and became mono where it had been stereo. Not too tannic or disjointed just very, very young. Good, ripe juice.

Needs at least a decade.

2001 Donnhoff, Riesling Estate (Qba):

The sweetness this had on release has reduced some and the stone and mineral character is starting to assert itself. Little by little, this is getting better. And it’s a bargain.

1999 Zind-Humbrecht, Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl:

Good wine. Peach nectar with a nice spicey note and plenty of ripe fruit; the acids sharpen things at mid-palate and drive a long, balanced finish. Good density, some RS.

Good now; surely good later.

Thanks Steve.

1998 Louis Michel, Chablis Vaidesir:

Lemon drop and mineral nose with a crisp and pure palate of citrus, rain water and mineral, richer (almost California richness – but no butter or wood) and broader than expected; long finish. Served with tomato and mozzarella salad – perfect.

1995 Ambra, Carmignano Riserva:

A high toned red fruit nose with elements of dirt, ozone and resin. Complex on the palate and pretty well resolved; lots of red fruit and earth tones, some jelly bean and light chili spice flavors; very nice integration and balance. Together with a long finish, it matched a dish of pasta with ricotta and walnuts, beautifully.

1997 Sottimano, Barbaresco Vigna Del Salto;

Perfume and red cherries lead on the nose, substantial oak, some rose aromas and a touch of burnt sugar. Medium bodied with very fine, dusty tannins, the palate is a touch dried by the tannins but still the ripe cherry, burnt sugar elements repeat; maybe a bit of asphalt smoke and some oak flavors lead to a long, slightly drying finish. We are into this one too early, it seems; the wood is sticking out and the tannins are prominent. Still, it has its allure and went well with grilled flank steak.

Thanks Larry.

2000 Vieux Mas des Papes CdP:

Ah Mourvedre; gamey, tarry, salty, black fruit scented juice that rises up to meet you. Medium body but very flavor-filled, with asphalt, black fruit, some cherry, salt and a whisper of spice. A finish that reviews all that stuff that went before and holds its ripe fruit tone for quite awhile. With leftovers of cold, grilled flank steak, delicious.

Now, would be a good time to open one.

Best, Jim

July 7, 2003

Best friends are a combination of many things, not the least of which is some unknowable and unrepeatable chemistry that makes the attraction stronger, if for no other reason than its mystery.

So, last night we celebrated our final evening with George and Cheryl. It had been an eventful four days, with combinations of business and pleasure, pointed discussion and comfortable silence, out-loud-laughter and gentle tears; a visit that won’t be easily forgotten. Nor will those bright moments when, just because we were all together, the day seemed effortless.

Even our dogs will miss them.

With a Thai shrimp and veggie stir-fry over rice:

2001 Knoll, Riesling Durnsteiner Schutt Smaragd:

an attractive floral and mineral driven nose with suggestions of apple, sea-air and a vague tropical element; somewhat closed/

medium body, a bit edgy in the mouth as well as a bit closed, flavors follow the nose with a distinct emphasis on the mineral aspects, firm structure, quite concentrated and extremely intense, well balanced/

uncommonly long, very crisp finish.

This wine is as focused as any I have had. It gives the impression that what is latent is even greater than that which is showing – and that is plenty.

Time will be very good to this wine.

2001 F.X. Pichler, Riesling Reserve “M”:

extremely expressive and powerful nose of white fruit, resin, mineral, flowers and honey; penetrating and complex; remarkably forward/

full body, viscous and smooth, more forward on the palate than expected but also showing more depth and breadth of flavor than the Schutt, tremendous concentration, ripeness and intensity with perfect balance; complex and dense but still fresh and lively/

astonishingly long.

This kind of concentration is rare and, when coupled with this kind of structure and balance, all the more so. Despite being so approachable, its hidden power is suggested at every sip. Big and elegant at the same time, the paradox of a great wine is unmistakable.

Profound.

To best friends then,

Jim

July 6, 2003

A busy day eliminated time to cook dinner, so a couple of pizzas served us.

1995 Flora Springs, Trilogy:

pleaseant, ripe cabernet aromas with a bit of spice; no overt wood/

full bodied, fairly simply but definitely ripe flavors follow the nose, concentrated, good balance/

fairly long finish that ends a bit dry from the tannins.

Good, not great. Lots of sediment so be sure to stand it up and decant. The drying on the finish makes me think drinking sooner rather than later.

1998 Paloma, Merlot:

blackberry and cocoa on the nose, ripe and attractive/

full body, better integrated than the Trilogy and slightly more complex with some of the black fruit morphing into red fruit, spicey, concentrated and intense but polished, balanced/

long, very balanced finish.

Perhaps, a little tight but showing very nicely and its polish and integration make it preferable to the first wine.

1994 Ridge, Zinfandel Pagani Ranch:

a lovely nose of bramble, roses, blackberry preserves, brown sugar and some kind of light Asian spice note; nicely complex/

medium bodied, fully resolved on the palate with a core of ripe fruit flavors surrounded by diffuse layers of complexity, integrated and well balanced/

medium length finish.

An exotic critter that has certainly changed since release – I might not have guessed zin. had I tried it blind. The rose element in the nose was so alluring and the complexity of the wine on both the nose and palate were, too. A strong endorsement for aging such wines as indicated in the label-notes by the winemaker.

BTW, not a trace of the 14.7% alcohol the label notes. A little hard to believe after all this time but I searched and couldn’t find a shred of evidence.

Best, Jim

July 5, 2003

George and Cheryl came for dinner so we did Grand Crus.

With grilled salmon and risotto with collards:

1996 Jadot, Clos St. Denis:

fabulous nose of rich, wine soaked truffles with cranberry and forest floor, hints of spice and black olive; expansive/

medium body, very deep and integrated flavors emphasize the crunchy cranberry and truffle flavors, the texture is light in the mouth and yet the entire mouth is filled, somewhat tight, concentrated and intense, integrated, well balanced/

extremely long, crunchy finish.

Young but development is afoot. A remarkable nose and, despite a graceful yet alluring flavor profile, it is clear that this wine needs many years in the cellar to become all that it cam be. Exceptional.

1999 Bizot, Echezeaux (375):

shotgun nose (all over the place) with green olive, oak, sauvage, black fruit, mint, musk, spice, dirt, herb and the list continues; nothing integrated but very complex/

medium body, deeply flavored with flavors that echo the nose with amazing complexity but show more black fruit, rustic in a good way, concentrated and very intense, balanced/

extremely long finish.

A wine that seems to be made to accompany eating without utensils; Tom Jones style, if you will. It challenges all the senses, even touch. ‘Needs a decade but so expressive now.

Best, Jim

July 2, 2003

What a beautifully-written post. Just reading it, I could hear the tap, tap, tapping on a tin roof and smell the wetness in the air and see the leaves of the plants dipping and nodding with the weight as they hold and then release the falling raindrops.
So where are you, Florida Jim, that your day is so peaceful?

Jaymes and Varmint,

I am in the western mountains of North Carolina just outside a small town named Banner Elk. It is the ski area, with both Sugar and Beech mountains within three miles. Elevation above 4,000 feet.

Yeah, Franklin is a bit far. Nice area though.

Best, Jim

July 2, 2003

I'll be there in two weeks, and I'm counting down the days!

Where?

Thirsty?

Best, Jim

July 2, 2003

How do I tell you that it is raining but it is wonderful?

The garden is almost singing because the rain has been gentle, continuous, and has lasted for several days and nights. Lovely sleeping weather, a good time to clean the house, and a glass of wine with lunch makes a nap one of those delightful moments in the day.

So anyway, it’s beautiful here and a nap is in my future.

With a pasta dish that had fresh tomatoes, black olives, onions, garlic, mushrooms and grated cheese:

2000 Clos Roche Blanche, Gamay:

crunchy black cherry on the nose with stones and a touch of high toned red cherry/

light bodied but plenty of concentration, crunchy on the palate with vinous red cherry, herb, smoke and black cherry flavors, intense, bright, balanced/

very long finish with deep black cherry echoes.

A forkful of the food and a sip of this wine in the mouth make both tastes better. By itself, the wine is almost cleansing on the palate and so intensely flavored that the finish seems endless. Many years of life await.

About $9, delivered.

Personal opinion: When the 2002 of this hits the shelves (shortly) I will buy several cases. The 2002 vintage in the Loire is certainly a good one, maybe better. But at this price, this is the ultimate no-brainer. Not even Coudert’s Fleuries rise to this level (and they are stellar).

The finest QPR value I have ever encountered.

Best, Jim

July 1, 2003

With sweet potato soup:

1997 Trimbach, Riesling Cuvee Frederic Emile (375):

what a match, as the wine was fruit sweet and full flavored, approachable and balanced with depth and viscosity. Together, one of those perfect matches that we will make note of. $18, delvered.

With grilled salmon and a rice pilaf with collards:

1998 Flowers, Pinot Noir Van der Kamp Vnyd.:

what a surprise; this is deeply earthy with excellent concentration, solid structure, ripe fruit flavors (a bit more black than red), well balanced and long in the mouth. With air, more depth and pretty good complexity as the edges round out. Still young but showing more promise than any other Flowers’ pinot I have had in quite some time. And very little wood.

$47, delivered.

With cheese:

1998 Paloma, Merlot:

a full bodied and rich wine, without overt oak and showing fairly open; lots of fruit flavors and spice, bright and fresh, with good length and balance. More open than I would expect and delicious with the cheese.

$44, delivered.

Best, Jim

June 30, 2003

With a frittata including squash, black olives, onions, feta and tomatoes; a side of roasted red potatoes with mushrooms, and, sautéed sugar snap pea pods:

2000 Raveneau, Montée de Tonnerre:

a nose of rainwater, vanilla, citrus, flint, minerals, honey and nuts; dense and expansive/

full body, viscous, the texture of satin, flavors follow the nose with substantial complexity, vinous, concentrated and intense, excellent depth and balance/

extremely long, mouth-watering finish.

Young but exquisite. Lovely with the dish and by itself.

Too often predictions for a wine’s future sound of hype. I haven’t the words or the abilities to either predict or convey my message. But this is extraordinary, delicious even now and a wine that is worth many times its hefty price.

Memorable.

$64, delivered.

Best, Jim

June 29, 2003

With a pasta dish that included collards, black olives, tomatoes, chick peas, green lentils, onions and garlic:

1994 Fisher, Lamb Vnyd. Cabernet Sauvignon:

straight-forward nose of red plum, dill/oak, light spice and a touch of black fruit/

full body, pretty well integrated, flavors follow the nose with a bit of complexity, concentrated, grippy, perhaps a little closed, good balance/

medium length, slightly tannic finish.

The truth is, this wine was simple and nothing special until drunk with the food – where it became delicious. A bite of food and a sip of wine; for me, it was the only way to drink this bottle.

This is the last vintage of this wine I bought ($50, retail at release) and, assuming it is still made in the same way, I can not imagine paying even that for it these days.

With cheese:

1999 Gilles-Robin, Crozes-Hermitage:

I have written favorably about this wine many times. Suffice it to say that I would trade all the Fisher cab. I have for a few more bottles of this. One of the most delicious wines in my cellar, every time. About $9, on sale.

Best, Jim

June 29, 2003

Aside from grilling, was anything done to the salmon?

Nope.

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