boris

Stayed in Beaune for 5 days at the end of May, so forgive the short rushed notes. Stayed at Les Remparts - good location, fair price: hotel.des.remparts@wandafoo.fr website is webstore.fr/hotel-remparts Don't miss the market in Chagny on Sunday AM/Noon!! Market in Beaune on Saturday - we missed it Rent a car and get lost in the vineyards!!! ***Go to Burghound.com (Allen Meadows) to order the BEST guide to all that is Burgundy (hotels, restaraunts, Chocolate shops, Cheese shops, etc...) he sells this seperate to his Burghound Newsletter, and was ~$20 http://www.burghound.com/guide.shtml *** Note, I have no affiliation other than as a subscriber and a happy one at that!! Restaraunts - l'Ecusson :imaginative edge to traditional Burgundian cuisine. Service spotty ( at best) while we were there. Highlight - roasted marrow bones with escargo; Bresse chicken ;Dessert: bananna 4 ways (sounds like a yawner but was excellent). Pretty damn good wine list - fairly priced. Moderately expensive. Phone: 0380240382 les Tontons : Bistro with the most amazing and fraigrant Burgundian take on "clam chowder". Beef Borgogne was extremely well done. One waiter runs the room in this bistro with a well decorated interior. Some jewels in an excellent wine list. Phone: 0380241964 Le Charlemagne: Restaraunt recently completely redone. Japanese/Burgundy fusion. Our best meal - overlooks Corton Charlemagne. Inventive, inspired meal. Slightly more than l'Ecusson (60 euros per person? for the tasting menu). Would return in a heart beat. Located in Pernand Vergelesses (20-30 min drive from Beaune) Ma Cuisine: For atmosphere and a feeling like you're with old friends. Amazingly well done standards. A young husband and wife run this bistro. Couldn't have been more opposite overall to the feel and food of Le Charlemagne, but just as good. Also a "must do", but reserve ahead - we called 2 months ahead, but we are anal retentive about these things!! Phone: 0380223022 Salon du The (name escapes me) located at the periphery of the small square/roundabout connected the alleyway to Ma Cuisine (Place Carnot?) - you'll see when you get there. Great little tea salon with pastries/chocolates, the young girl working there had the most musical relaxing French voice I have ever heard . The bathroom there was also quite unique in a ceramic tile kind of way. Other must go: Le Tast'fromages 23, rue Carnot Note these are places we went to. I'm sure there are MANY other places/restaraunts I could talk about, but would not be able to give specific details about. Have a great time! Mark

Bux, Thanks. We'll definitely try to get to Chagny. Unfortunately, we don't get into Beaune until ~1500 hrs on Saturday, so we probably won't be there in time for the Beaune market. I appreciate everyone's help. Mark

Could somebody tell me about public (food) markets in or around Beaune? Will be there Saturday PM to Wednesday AM. Is there a weekly Sunday market? Many thanks!

Désolé!! ....L'Astrance is now closed on Saturday!! Mark E.

One more question, So if we are wanting to make reservations for L'Astrance for May 31st, do we call April 30th? Thanks again

Marcus, Thanks - unfortunately La Regalade is now closed on Saturday (at least the Saturday we hoped for). Mark

Thanks everyone for your recommendations - they all sounded great, but I think we've been convinced to TRY and get reservations at L' Astrance. (with perhaps Chez Casimir or Aux Lyonnais as a back up). ONE MORE QUESTION: Could someone remind me of the reservation policy at L'Astrance? Do I call one month to the day? What time (Paris time) do they start answering phones? Any other bits of advise appreciated - Thanks. ...feeling deja-vu with respect to our "French Laundry" reservations last year!! Mark

Lizzee, Oh, no need to tell me about your post. I've read/drooled over it many, many times. I'll have to say that you have already planned much of my meal for me. So many people have noted they stayed for two nights - to be able to afford such opulance! P.S. We requested the green library room for dinner. Mark

PaulaJK, Thank you for your help. Le Vigneron is the restaurant with the mini wine museum, from what I have read. I guess my main question; out of the restaurants you mention, do you recall which seemed to have the best/most reasonably priced wine (ie, champagne) list? Our plans for Boyer is to celebrate life. When we were in Reims 2 years ago, we vowed to come back, and both stay and dine at Boyers. After reading so many great stories on this site and others (esp the report on burkeandwells.com), we finally figured we MUST go. Hell, I'm even looking foreward to the breakfast the next morning. We will be in Reims the day & night prior, have already settled on our hotel for the first night, and are interested in a restaurant that focuses on regional specialties, with a great champagne list that won't "compete" with the meal the next night at Boyer. Thanks Mark

Looking at a restaurant in Reims (or immediate area) for the night before Les Crayeres with good regional food - not too "fancy-pants"; reasonably priced and varied champagne list a definite asset. Is Le Vigneron a good choice? How is there wine list priced? We dined at La Foche a couple of years ago - not that impressive. Have also thought about L' Apostraphe, and Au Petit Comptoir. Thanks to all for any and all suggestions! Mark

Our last night in Paris is Saturday (late May). We will have dined at La Regalade friday night, Boyer in Reims the night before, and various meals (5 nights) in Beaune previous. We had thought about Claude Colliot based on a previous post, but unfortunately, they are closed Saturday. Colliot sounded very interesting, and we are looking for a very good restaurant that may be hovering just "below the radar". We enjoyed La Regalade when we were there 2 years ago - Krug by the glass, Pate de Campagne to die for...and despite recent concerning reviews, we are still keen to give it another try (they too are closed on Saturday). Any suggestions for a last night in Paris for two people that may be approaching food burn out? We are trying to avoid Michelin *'s. Great wines at reasonable prices a bonus, too. P.S. been to Willy's, but was not "wowed". We are staying in the 6 arr, but will go anywhere. Thanks for any recs! Mark

Mike czyz: I would rank in order: 1) Troisgros 2) El Bulli 3) Raco Can Fabes 4)The French Laundry 5) The Herbfarm, then others... Mark E.

To try and reply to the above: Started with: Small snacks: various root "chips" of various shapes and sizes. Long curls, ribbons and fat chips - the best was an intense red beet chip - with a parsely herb dip; oyster with gingered burdock; herbed onion and walnut tart; sunchoke(jerusalum artichoke) flan with paddlefish caviar. Oregon black truffle, sea scallop & potato ravioli in parsley soup ....whole scallop which was not seared but just passively cooked within the ravioli - WOW. Unfortunately, the truffle was practically devoid of flavour. The soup was amazingly well balanced - just enough of a hint of parsley. I believe it was in a cream and vegetable (or chicken?) stock. Herb-smoked black cod with beets, pea sprouts, and REAL wasabi....the dish of the night Seared Duck Foie Gras w parsnip puree, sage-poached prunes, shallot rings and apple caraway sauce. ...Prunes and caraway sauce were (for me) a very original and tantilizing accompanyment. Angelica root and lemon geranium sorbet. OK, am I the only one that finds a "palate cleanser" an Austin-Powers type of flashback? Something akin to aspic jelley? ...............regardless, this was something to be proud of!! YEA BABY!! Herb-Rubbed Muscovy Duck Breast with confit-turnip cake, savoy spinach and huckleberry sauce. ...crispy skin, meltingly tender meat, and perfect berries(placed in suspended animation from the fall) Celery root , hazelnut &asian pear salad ....YAWN!!! Maybe everything else was so much better, but this did not float my boat. Dessert: Sweet potato, pine nut, and rosemary tart; Carrot-calvados souffle with bay custard sauce (damn, did I use my dish of the night line already? OK, so this tied); ginger ice cream with lavender poached cherries and chocolate sauce. Brewed coffee tea, etc........Passed Small treats: peppermint dark chocolate truffle raspberry rose geranium fruit pate (diamond shaped jelly) - WOW chocolate-date shortbread (looked like a classic french macaroon) candied parsnip jasmine white chocolate truffle. I would state that the whole experience was better than anything experienced in Oregon, BC, or the rest of Washington. Better than: BC: Lumiere, Oest/West, Bacchus, Gavroche, Bishops,..etc WA: Cascadia, Rovers, 727, Harvest Vine, Juanita, Canlis(are you kidding?) etc... OR: Wildwood, Paley's Place, Higgins (that's all for now) Mark E.

Went to the Herbfarm on Friday evening - The Essential Root was the theme. I have to say we had a great meal. I have to say that it was our best meal in the Pacific NW, and that includes comparisons to Vancouver (Lumiere, West). Was it worth the price of admission?....just. Tariff was pretty high. Wines included, but not all that great, and IMO just a way to jack up the price of the meal by $50 per person, and serve $10 worth of plonk. Next time we will bring our own. Reasonable corkage, but shouldn't it be waived since you are already paying for wine???? I have to agree with the comments made about there reservation/cancellation policy, and this will be a factor in whether we return. My suggestion: Cancellation that cannot be filled by the restaurant in time entitles the individual to a voucher that can only be used to reserve a LAST MINUTE cancellation (one that was not able to be filled by someone on the waiting list). I feel this would be a win-win for both the restaurant and patron. The restaurant had at least 6-10 empty seats on Friday, so their arrogant policy cannot be justified any longer. People are not rioting outside to pay $150 - $170 for what, in this persons mind, is an amazing dining experience. Thankfully, not much of a "dog and pony" show, and NO PUPPETS!! Have to rank it in the top four meals of all time for us. Mark E.

Explorer, The wine was a current vintage Sancerre (Sav Blanc) I believe. Not too memorable, so I can't be more specific. It was consumed about 6-9 months ago - second to last time there. Boris

I wish to chime in regarding L'Alexandrin. Went prior to them getting a "star". Was our first fine meal in Lyon. A class act - husband in the kitchen, wife in charge at the front of the house. Great wine selection. Had the morel-asparagus menu. Had a year's worth of morels. Well decorated interior. Lots of locals. What can be said about Troisgros that hasn't been said? The finest meal of our lives. Period Have fun!

Jinmyo, It has been a few months since my last dining experience at Lumiere; therefore, I really shouldn't comment on specifics other than to say I was very pleased with my food there. I have never been dissapointed with the FOOD - more than a few of the dishes have " rocked my world" such as : lobster with leek ravioli horseradish and beet sauce, crab with watermelon soup, braised beef short rib, sablefish marinated in maple syrup and sake, ANY cheese course, etc...Rather, it has been a more insidious attitude and general environment change that I had noticed during my last two visits (approx 6 months apart). Feeney is still an extremely talented chef, and one of my favorites. It is just that when compared to other talented chefs in the same area, I cannot justify the cost of the experience. Likewise, if you want to charge the same as the other All-Stars, you better be able to hit the ball just as far. I would rather spend my All-Star money elsewhere. If I know other restaurants in the area won't charge me as much, won't punish me for bringing a wine (or if they will, at least give me a decent and well-priced wine list), and won't make me feel like I'm yet another diner being crammed into "prime real-estate", then I will go...and have! I had planned another trip in the near future, but when I got wind of a change in corkage policy, I telephoned the restaurant to confirm if this was in fact true ($75). Sadly it is. Obviously they can have that policy and still be full. For that I congratulate them. In the meantime, I had dined at West and had a truly enjoyable meal. I would like to post a more detailed note later, as I am still composing notes, but allow me to say that the highlights were the: Quebec Foie Gras and Chicken Liver Parfait (apple jelly with toasted brioche). Beautiful presentation, brioche done perfectly. Rich yet light enough to not overwhelm. Would a hint more acidity in the apple jelly have brought the dish up to another level? Has to be seen to be believed. Sugar Pumpkin Ravioli. Again, extremely well presented, with an amazing aroma of roasted squash. Hint of amaretto/almond truly made this the dish of the night. Tangerine Sorbet. I want to know what this was laying on. A merangue? Excellent dish Chocolate Passionfruit Cake . The pastry chef closed with this. It made me think I was served Ding Dongs and Twinkies at Gary Danko. Kudos both to Hawksworth and Pastry chef Viani for a great meal! Cheers!

Jinmyo, It has been a few months since my last dining experience at Lumiere; therefore, I really shouldn't comment on specifics other than to say I was very pleased with my food there. I have never been dissapointed with the FOOD - more than a few of the dishes have " rocked my world" such as : lobster with leek ravioli horseradish and beet sauce, crab with watermelon soup, braised beef short rib, sablefish marinated in maple syrup and sake, ANY cheese course, etc...Rather, it has been a more insidious attitude and general environment change that I had noticed during my last two visits (approx 6 months apart). Feeney is still an extremely talented chef, and one of my favorites. It is just that when compared to other talented chefs in the same area, I cannot justify the cost of the experience. Likewise, if you want to charge the same as the other All-Stars, you better be able to hit the ball just as far. I would rather spend my All-Star money elsewhere. If I know other restaurants in the area won't charge me as much, won't punish me for bringing a wine (or if they will, at least give me a decent and well-priced wine list), and won't make me feel like I'm yet another diner being crammed into "prime real-estate", then I will go...and have! I had planned another trip in the near future, but when I got wind of a change in corkage policy, I telephoned the restaurant to confirm if this was in fact true ($75). Sadly it is. Obviously they can have that policy and still be full. For that I congratulate them. In the meantime, I had dined at West and had a truly enjoyable meal. I would like to post a more detailed note later, as I am still composing notes, but allow me to say that the highlights were the: Quebec Foie Gras and Chicken Liver Parfait (apple jelly with toasted brioche). Beautiful presentation, brioche done perfectly. Rich yet light enough to not overwhelm. Would a hint more acidity in the apple jelly have brought the dish up to another level? Has to be seen to be believed. Sugar Pumpkin Ravioli. Again, extremely well presented, with an amazing aroma of roasted squash. Hint of amaretto/almond truly made this the dish of the night. Tangerine Sorbet. I want to know what this was laying on. A merangue? Excellent dish Chocolate Passionfruit Cake . The pastry chef closed with this. It made me think I was served Ding Dongs and Twinkies at Gary Danko. Kudos both to Hawksworth and Pastry chef Viani for a great meal! Cheers!

Suggestions for the Chablis region for restaraunts and hotel for one night on our way to Beaune (4 nights). In Beaune we plan on dining at Ma Cuisine, and Hostellerie de l'Ecusson. We are looking for a restaraunt that speaks of the region with a wine list to match (and reasonably priced). Are looking at 50 eu per person or less for the food component, 50 eu for room. We will have a car. All advise is appreciated

It is with regret that a restaurant I have enjoyed so many times in the past will, for this individual, become a thing of the past. I have enjoyed many (over 10) meals at Lumiere. It is not that the food has gone downhill - it is just that it has now become a poor "quality/price ratio" experience. The wine list has always been ridiculously overpriced, but the food prices, I felt, balanced it out. Especially with a reasonable corkage fee. Pricing (QPR) for their food is now equivocal to other local restaurants. I compare to Ouest/West, Bishop's, La Crocodile, La Gavroche (can't wait for it to re-open). The style; similar, but not nearly as well executed as Thomas Keller or Charlie Trotter, lacks the service and intimacy of these two restaurants. Tables are tightly spaced, decor, etc is quite basic. I make the comparison, because this seems to be the peer group that Robert Feeney feels he is in. Mr. Feeney feels that he can now charge French Laundry/Charley Trotter corkage fees, with a wine list mark-up to match. That would be fine if the ambiance or service was close, but unfortunately my last two meals made me left feeling as though I were in a very decorative cafeteria - we were not active participants, we were mere observers, there to adjust to the experience. My main problem; however, is that I enjoy wine with my meal, and Lumiere has always had a poor value wine list. It is full of wines that have been inflated 300% (perhaps even 400%, but my sense of being taken advantage of may be impairing my memory). If the wines were gems in the rough, then fine - but the morning of our last dinner I saw the sommelier at the local liquor store filling the shopping cart with some pretty pedestrian offerings. When you are charged $40.00 for a bottle of wine you see the next day for $11.99 you feel taken. It perpetuates the myth that wine is an elite beverage ONLY meant for special occasions. Furthermore, when you drink that $40.00 wine that is meant to retail for $11.99, I believe the wine producers reputation is affected. The general public don't see a $12 bottle of wine, but a producer that makes a poor QPR $40 bottle of wine. My solution in the past has been corkage $20-$25, order a couple of wines by the glass, and tip well (20-30%) to make up for REASONABLE lost wine sale revenue. Well imagine my shock at finding corkage has been increased to $75!! - See post below-. At those prices, they must be trying to direct me towards their stellar wine list?? The last time I checked, it was full of: overpriced lesser vintages, an assortment of average - widely available producers, or immature wine. Basically, I am now at the mercy of a punitively priced wine list. Fine if I am AT The French Laundry, Gary Danko, Charlie Trotter, Daniel, Chez Panisse, Troisgros, Carre des Feuillants, L'Alexandrin (in Lyon - go!), el Raco de Can Fabes, or El Bulli. I've been to them, and many others, so trust me - Lumiere is NOT in the same ballpark. Furthermore, the European counterparts price their lists well. Is it because the public is more wine savvy, and refuse to be taken advantage of? I'm tempted to order water (tap) with my meals . On second thought, Vancouver has so much else to offer! I welcome debate on this topic - Your thoughts!