Scott

- that's dangerous talk!

How Sad. Pity the industry is so rife with this sort of thing. At a very famous south london restaurant, I made a complaint about the service from the very gregarious, wide boy sommelier. 3 - 4 years ago. The point was, he was coked off his tits, and it was very easy to tell. When addressing this complaint to the floor manager at the end of the night (not the chef), it was treated as a bit of a giggle. Like some sort of in joke, tee hee, we don't do that sort of thing. which I have always thought illustrated how prevalent this sort of thing is. Regrettably it has a claimed a high profile victim, wonder how many others also, who weren't worthy of news attention?

better than Gavroche?

Actually Scott I thought most of the points made were good ones. If you disagree so strtongly, perhaps you'd care to provide counter-arguments? Well, perhaps these are well points, and could perhaps they could form the electoral platform for the joyless, petty, curmudgeon party at the next general election. A dose of reality please, are you aware of what the unemployment rate is at the moment ??? You are not being 'Paid' for stages, at best you get a minor stipend for expenses. what about the nature of the payment, is it income, capital, re-imbursement? What if no payment is made, but accommodation and meals are provided. Is that ok? if it's not, a fundamental part of training young chef's is out the window. would that make you happy? Incidentally, there is no difference between payments in currency, and in kind, other than that this is THE LOWEST priority any of us have to worry about. Unless, of course you are heading towards retirement This was probably unfair, and Winot I don't really mean to single you out, but it's the original premise of this blinkered view that works me up. if you hadn't guessed! As unemployment is so low, and these stages are available to anyone (check any Caterer to see how numerous these offers are), where is the harm? More frankly, what are they taking OUT of the system? Far as I can see jack shit.

What a complete, borish and unnecessary overreaction

I'm sure you'll have a great time wherever, but be careful your trip doesn't become too prescriptive and scientific in your dining choices. we've all made that mistake before

Kofmann certainly didn't leave to go in pursuit of a 3rd star - He had 3 stars and lost one when he moved (a travesty in my opinion).

I'm sure he did I believe it is against the law to open a new restaurant without a david collins interior, and in teamster fashion, if you don't want him to do it - you pay him to sit while someone else does it!!! either that or i'm jealous of his client list

Andy, I agree it is all speculation. It is a travesty that wareing doesn't already have 2 stars, and much like JBR, Koffmann etc. the hotel management desperately want the third star. usually the hotel management will agree to fund the kitchen, exactly as the chef requires, as part of the wooing. This kitchen will be off limits to all kitchen staff not part of the main game, i.e. breakfast, etc will not be prepared in the big boys kitchen. The berkeley space is just very sterile, as I think anyone who eate there with any semblance of regularity will testify to. The room dividers always made me like I was in a school room, separated by panels from one class to another. Now we all know that proximity to foyers etc. is not necessarily a bad thing and can work in a hotel without much fuss (i still mourn the oak room!), the berkeley space is a tough gig. Maybe Gordo & co. can make it work. Koffmann left for his dream kitchen, pursuit of a 3rd star, and because he could keep all the sale proceeds of RHR without having to fund a new restaurant and refurbishments. All pretty good reasons to me, except it didn't work... Also, the food about 6 - 9 months out from the demise of Tante claire was as good any in London at that point; regrettably it's not always about the food as you correctly point out.

Andy, however lets not forget that the Berkeley space never did work for Koffmann, how much do you think he would give to never have moved from RHR? As I have often said I think Wareing is a great, great chef, but I worry about this move. Tante Claire never got that space right, and oh how they tried... Mind you, we shall all be very keen to see how things go.

Recently? I think Pied a terre has been singing on top note for at least a year now.

2 of the best 3 best meals I have had this year have been at Pied a Terre. I enjoyed both more than recent continental ventures to Don Alfonso 1890, Lucas Carton, Le Cinq, and Laurent - for reference. They are turning out stunning flavours, strong, clean, fresh and well balanced. The fresh flavours of the Aussie chef (Shane Osborn) are really brought out and enhanced by classical french technique. Best of both worlds, or at least best of any one doing such in UK at the moment - imho. I particularly favour the spice crusted tuna. Pretty good value for money also. They do not have the facility infrastructure for 3 stars, but the food quality must be bolt upright at the higher end of 2 star quality. Also they do some pretty good Burgundy deals, look for rapier like Dauvissat Chablis 2000 & 1996 Dugat Py Gevry VV as some fair values.

Mirabelle!

Bill, thanks but I knew the answer, that was my point for questioning the absolute authority of your post. For many people, ESPECIALLY the burgundians, decanting young wine damages the aromatics and the quality of fruit in the wine. If you were not aware of this, yet know many people think that, have you thought where it originates? Now I agree this is not true of all styles, but I know of NO wine that benefits from a vigourous shaking or decanting, swirl yes, shake no. This stuff is delicate, and what you are advocating is akin to replicating the travel sickness that excessive vibration in transit causes on a bottle of wine, young or old. I'm not sure i see how the relative oxidisative curves of young vs old wine is part of this equation.

Bill, couple of things, aside from the semantics of terminology, what are you damaging when you decant an older wine? Also, why is it that the Burgundians recommend you NEVER decant young red burgundy?

If you really want to bruise the fruit, you could always use a blender

Had excellent Grouse at J Sheeke last night, £29.75 so still not a give away. Despiet The assurances to the contrary, it sure seemed like it had been hung for longer than a mexican in a texas jail

"Please be f*cking off", is there another more appropriate response that I don't know about?

A couple of years ago, they won the wine spectator award for the largest "by the glass" wine list in Europe. Roughly at the same time I had glasses of 1994 Ridge Montebello & 1994 Opus one served in big riedels for not bad prices. Never had the urge to eat there

Why, do you have to eat him as well? Please god, no!!

If you can stomach the eponymous host at Chez Max, they do some pretty decent game at fair prices. Incidentally, I can't

what??

when did German riesling become cool again?

I love the star of greece, was there 6 weeks ago and had stunning salt and pepper squid caught that morning off port willunga! an amazing ambience

Andy, wine is central to a good meal for me, I hate the fact that my average spend per bottle in restaurants is 2/3 of what I spend at home. i.e. I can't bring myself to pay silly prices for poor booze. This part of your post reminded me how complacent we have become in regards to beverage prices in restaurants, we just accept that will be merciless ripped off and we should say thank you. I am not having a go at you, but i do find it funny how over time we tolerate the intolerable: £7 for £18 + service or £20 roughly, and have been conditioned to say thank you like monkeys. I agree however that this probably a reasonable deal under the circumstances, it's just the circumstances that trouble me... cheers