RyneSchraw

It's hard to imagine a place like Taillevent embracing these new techniques or global influences in their food, isn't it? There is definitely a lot of high-class tradition firmly rooted in Europe, that doesn't seem like it will step down anytime soon. And it doesn't have to...traditional French food has evolved into what it is over hundreds of years, because the techniques and principals work and the more importantly, the food tastes good. And though these same things are true about what is being done at places like Trio and TFL, it makes sense that just as American chefs want to form and start evolving their own style, that French chefs would like to continue on with evolving theirs. Which is why a lot of the new places seem to do really well in areas without a very strong history of high-end food, like California, Chicago or the Costa Brava in Spain-- they are actually creating the history in those places, as we speak. It's funny that you mention pop culture though, because it does seem that with music, movies and street fashion in general, that Europe and even Japan, for that matter (with their obsession of Ameican denim and sneakers), are strongly influnced by what is going on over here. Maybe this implies that the youth of these countries are looking ahead and are, in fact, much more concerned with what we are doing in America, rather than with the ages of tradition and history they have at home. If this is the case, will it then show up in high-end cuisine over there anytime soon? We'll just have to wait and see...

Actually, eating the Tour de Force at the kitchen table is the same price, $175, as in the dining room and they also offer a special menu only available at the KT for $150, which is around 15 courses. It's definitely an experience like nothing else, and I found being back there to be really educational and entertaining.

You know, I'm actually not that sure what it was made from--it was kind of ambiguous on the menu. It didn't seem to have that carmelized "pizza" flavor when they brown the cheese on top (I love that and always ask for pizza to come this way.) Then again, I might have just not noticed it behind the grapefruit and lobster. I assumed it was a milk or cream made into a custard-like base. Definitely had a sweeter flavor than just milk or cream, and I'm guessing no extra sugar was added. With the parsnip milk, Chef Achatz had mentioned that he was inspired by Heston Blumenthal and that he is really interested in what they are doing over at the Fat Duck. But rather than tasting like the milk from a bowl of cereal, his take on it tasted very similar to rice pudding the way it was presented. I think the technique used to obtain this is similar to how they cooked the parsnips for the purée of parsnip soup, that the celeriac soup replaced. But in this case they are just using the residual milk out of the bag. I'm always wanting to get back in there, so just let me know...

Jonathan- I would definitely agree that the meal was far more "global" than French. Ingredients and flavors are completely across the board, such as with the white asparagus which puts Japanese flavors one bite away from a traditional Hollandaise sauce. Shortly after that came the curry roasted cauliflower, and later on, something as American as backyear BBQ. And the technique is almost as diverse, with very modern approaches such as sous-vide cooking and foaming fitting right in with the Japanese Shabu Shabu style. Even Thomas Keller, who is possibly the American Chef, and who's style of food is regarded as highly American, seems to favor much more traditional French technique in one meal than you will ever see at Trio. I think Chef Achatz has already looked way too far over the horizon to settle with any one type of cuisine. Therefore, besides saying that the food is in his own personal style, or new, modern, or entertaining, it really becomes undefinable. But on the other hand, the style of presentation and style of service at Trio are heavily based on the French fine dining model. Up until recently all the finest restaurants were French, so a meal at Trio will echo characteristics of this, no matter what you actually end up eating.

At the dinner last Saturday I was solo. I have gone to Trio with friends and family in the past, but probably only about 1/3 of the time. Usually takes months of talking about it for it to happen, but hey not everyone can be as into food as we all are. I finish up high school in two months, so it's still about three years until I can go for the wine flights... For the last half year or so I've been eating out a ton (a lot at Trio since I'm utterly amazed at what they're doing there) and learning a lot about food. I've definitely found something I want to do, so I'm pretty thrilled about all this, and eGullet has been a huge help in meeting people and discussing and learning new things. And what I've found to be really cool is that despite my age, people have been really really encouraging and helpful. The entire staff at Trio -- Chef Achatz, especially -- have all been extremely open and excited with my presence and interest, so it's definitely something that has fueled it onward.

Yeah yeah, I am still having a hard time believing it! About the wine, I'm still too young to drink no really, I'm serious, and for awhile longer. I figured people would start to wonder why I'd never mention anything about it. And I'm really jealous too..the wine list is so great there! I gotta find some way around this whole thing, and soon. As for the "Bacon and Eggs," the sous-chef Dave explained that it was more of a take on an eggcream that you would get at a New York deli, but instead of chocolate milk it's made with condensed milk. No eggs though, and I think Thomas' dish actually uses quail eggs.

Okay here are some notes and comments on the courses I ate at the kitchen table. I did not write anything down during the meal, so I am mostly working from my memory and what was printed on the menu. Anyways, here goes: Golden Beetroot Juice mukashi soy, pumpkin seeds -- This is served in a martini glass as an amuse. Made with completely raw ingredients using the "raw" principal prevalent on the West coast in places such as Roxanne's. The idea here is to keep the food living and the enzymes in it alive, and pass that "life energy" on to the person comsuming it. Definitely worked as a start to the meal. The beet juice was a vivid golden/yellow color and had an extremely strong earthy and sweet taste. I hadn't had beet juice in years and it came as a shock almost as to how flavorful it can be. The pumpkin seed oil on top had nice nutty aroma and mixed with the froth from the jucing of the beets to create almost a pumpkin foam on top. The salty finish of the soy enhanced the flavors even more. Pacific Sea Urchin parsnip milk, frozen banana, puffed rice -- Parsnip milk was made by sous-vide (vacuum) cooking parsnips in milk and then saving the milk. Came in a small dish with puffed rice, frozen banana, a piece of sea urchin and seasoned with a very fragrant cinnamon from Saigon. Overall it tasted similar to rice pudding, but with the salty flavor of the sea urchin coming through. Works really well, but only if you like sea urchin... Purée of Celeriac Soup black truffles, pears, celery branch -- One of the very few courses I was familiar with. Purée of celeriac (celery root) comes in a glass cylinder in a bowl with a slice of black truffle floating on top and pears and celery branch surrounding in the bowl. The cylinder is lifted at the table and the soup pours out. Very sweet and light. Almost seems aeriated, not as thick as a traditional cream soup, with more of a frothy consistency somewhere in between. I'm curious as to how they make the actual purée. Cucumber, Milk, and Rosewater Foams -- Great example of a new combo that works. Cucumber juice and milk are very light and refreshing, silimar to the bubble tea Chef Achatz does, but the floral notes of the rosewater foam give the course some strength. Funny to see an ingredient that was popular a few centuries ago and then all but went away, show up again in this form. Hadn't ever really had rosewater before (actualy not true, I think they use it in those Turkish Delight candy bars from England my mom loves) and I sort of wish I'd see it more...although I can see why some people hate it. Pushed Foie Gras pears, Sauternes, salt roasted pear sorbet -- A great dessert they've been doing for awhile and with good reason. Salt-roasted pear sorbet (Bosc I believe) -- probably the best representation of pears ever!!! -- with pears and white raisins, and surrounded completely by foie gras that had been pushed through a tammis, which pairs (no pun intended hah) with the Sauternes gelée, although I'd rather have actually been drinking a glass of d'Yquem, but will have to settle in the meantime, sure... Really neat because the foie gras melts in your mouth immediately and rather than a taste it is a completely textural accompaniment to the pears and carries the flavor on for awhile. Sunchoke Parfait tangerine, maté, crispy sunchoke -- Layer of tangerine curd on the bottom, fresh tangerine supremes above that, vanilla sunchoke custard and mate foam on top, with crispy pieces of sunchoke (comes from the stalk or base of a sunflower) served on the spoon. I love it just as much the third or fourth time, and that maté foam is sooo good... Passionfruit-Mustard -- Passionfruit dissolved quickly leaving a lozenge of dijon mustard to dissolve slowy in the mouth. The sweetness at the beginning cuts the acidity and creates a smooth, buttery finsh. ? (I didn't forget...this is what was actually printed on the menu. A little guessing game.) -- Same idea as the "Pizza." A piece of dissolvable vegetable paper with French toast flavors on it. For the record I guessed wrong (cinnamon sticks I said, b/c to me the cinamon over-powered the maple syrup and eggy elements, which are what I associate with french toast.) Bavarois of Grapefruit, Caramelized Dairy, Lobster -- This is where it gets exciting! Custard of caramelized dairy (done sous-vide in a bag at a low temp) with chilled slices of lobster and a layer of grapefruit gelée on top. Tasted excellent-- sweet and bitter and thick + creamy yet highly dissolvable at the same time. This is why Chef Achatz gets the credit he does. Honestly, who else would have come up with this? White Asparagus from the Loire Valley progression of five flavors -- I'll quote 'chefg' from the Q&A b/c he does much better job explaining this dish than I could. My only experience with white asparagus was when my mom bought some and brought them home and I tried to blanch them and the tips started to turn green when they went in the ice bath. These were served chilled and were perfectly white, so I'm not sure what went wrong that time. Anyways, a beautiful and tasty course (I personally liked the tosaka seaweed and goat cheese w/ honey best) Mussel, Licorice, Parsley -- Served in a spoon. All elements seemed to be liquid, and I really couldn't make out too much licorice flavors. But very neat that they just mixed and coated the mouth and then were gone. Curry Roasted Cauliflower fenugreek, apricot, pink peppercorns -- Dish normally served off the vegetarian menu (chef was running out of dishes to serve me off the normal menus that I hadn't seen, so he either created all new ones or swiped one that I would never ordinarily see). Glad I got to though...huge head of cauliflower with curry flavors. Went nicely with apricot and coming so shortly after the white asparagus, it really made a strong case for vegetables. Maine Diver Scallop butternut squash, prosciutto, orange rind vapor -- Went into detail about this before. Very nice and subtle, much more subtle, actually, than its predecessor, the Maine Lobster with Rosemary Vapor. (The orange vapor is not as pervasive throughout the room when it comes.) They get these really big diver scallops in live (very very rare for restaurants to get them this way) and the texture is amazing. Elysian Fields Farm Lamb Shabu Shabu style -- Wow, this course was a lot fo fun! Chef Achatz brings the dish over and it consists of six pieces of Elysian Fields farm lamb rolled into little cylinders around fennel and another ingredient I forget (but here is why I forgot...) The lamb is completely uncooked and attached are clear stretchy and edible "strings" (not sure what these actually were either). On the right is a bowl with three hot rocks and below that some sea salt and pepper. A hot broth of Darjeeling tea is poured over the rocks and Chef instructs me to dip the lamb for 45-60 seconds for medium rare-medium. After three pieces as the broth has cooled, he comes back with a new bowl and pours fresh broth. He explained it was a Japanese technique that can be used with anything, but gave the example of how at Ginza Sushi-Ko (soon to be in New York and a hell-of-a-lot more expensive) the chef Masa will use this technique and have the guest dip an uncooked fish into hot broth. Charred Scottish Salmon Belly black tuffle, cocoa - As the rest of the cooks were getting six orders of the rutebega-mustard fish course put together, I saw Chef over on the flattop charring a piece of salmon belly. As the dish got closer to being finished you could see other cooks and waitstaff looking over, curious to what it was. Being in the kitchen and seeing all this going on I was getting excited, as he brought it to my table. Charred Scottish salmon belly on a bed of risotto with lots of black truffles, cocoa and hazelnut. The fish was wonderfully crispy on the outside and tender and fatty on the inside. And the burnt, charred flavors were great paired with the sweetness of the chocolate and the black truffles are always good. Confit of Veal Heart wild mushrooms, dark fruit purée, long peppercorns -- The sous-chef Dave (who had been bringing over and explaining a lot of the earlier courses; very helpful and insightful and a really cool guy) brings over a big granite slab and sets it on the table across from me. A few moments later, Chef Achatz comes over with an empty plate and Dave follows with five or six copper pots. Chef explains he wants to put this one together in front of me -- very cool!!! So it was a confit of veal heart cured in foie gras with a dark fruit purée (prunes were a main component) and wild mushrooms. Very fragrant long peppercorns (like no pepper I've ever had before) from Thailand were shaved over the top. Very tasty and cool to watch it being put together. Could this be topped? Ribeye of Prime Beef charcoal aromas, pommes maxin -- Yes, apparently the last one could be topped. I see Chef over at the other end the the kitchen with a blow torch firing some wood, charcoal and gristle from the prime beef in a small dish. Soon the whole kitchen starts to smell, as I think one cook described it, like a "Korean barbeque." The course is brought to the table (gettting a lot of attention from all the staff) with the wood still smoking and on a paper thin bed of super-thin sliced potatoes (must have been done with a mandoline), which have now been solidifed into a huge sheet of potato chips covering the plate. Underneath the sheet is a dark reduction and the Ribeye itself, a huge cut, is coated in mushrooms with a wild mushroom salad off to the side. Chef then comments that this is "just like in your backyard" and indeed I probably left the restaurant smelling like a bonfire. But the course was amazing, if not a bit too big, but really...I'm not complaining. I'd really like to see this dish end up on the menu, but wonder if they will be able to actually walk this out into the dining room, still smoking, without it being too distracting to diners eating a different course. If this is the case, then I was really really lucky to have gotten it once! Salad -- Intermezzo consiting completely of ice: Olive oil ice, vinigarette ice, and shards of watercress, chard and one other green ice that look strangely like broken green leaded-glass. Very cool, because it stayed so true to a real salad and the vinigar at the end stipped the palate clean. "Bacon and Eggs" -- A shot glass consisting of condensed milk mixed with seltzer water with a bacon tuile on top (carmelized sugar with crumbled bacon). The drink did have an eggy taste, despite having no eggs in it, and it's a really satisfying and simple way to start the second dessert. Chocolates olive, fennel, salt and pepper -- Yes, this made me laugh just seeing it on the menu, because I was always a huge fan when they did 'Chocolate and Olives' and I think chocolate has enormous potential (and history) as an good pair towards savory ingredients. The course as a whole might have been too big, it actually consisted of five chocolate squares, one white, one dark, a few seemed like milk. One was a traditional old-school French dessert with candy and nuts on top. Personally, I think the strengths lie in the white chocolate with fennel pollen, Dark with salt and pepper and the now classic (at Trio at least) chocolate and olives. Pastry Chef Paula Haney is really doing some amazing, boundary-blurring things with her desserts and I'm glad people are enjoying them as much as I do. It's always an exciting part of the meal and especially when you don't have to wait all the way to the end to get it (see above post relating to "rolling hills"). Tropicals -- Three sorbets stacked on a bed of bitter melon granita. One was papaya and another was pineapple, but I might be wrong in assuming the third was mango. Very refreshing and cool, at just about the point where something too sweet and rich would have been too much. It really does show how planned and calculated the progression of courses actually is though, and they all come together to form this perfect, seamless meal. Unusual Candies -- Smoked paprika (made in house I believe) and sumac (that could be wrong) candies which are also made in house. Came wrapped in tin foil...I had one there and took the other home. Alright, well that is all I can think of for now, but if you have any questions please feel free to ask!

Alright, let's at least get this started tonight. I had dinner at Trio last Saturday, and after months of wanting to do it, finally ate at the kitchen table. Since then I have had little time to post about it, but have been very anxious to, and will start tonight with a recap of the meal and thoughts on the meal as a whole. I can then try to come back tomorrow night and answer any questions and I definitely want to do a course-by-course breakdown, like last time. Of all my meals I've had at Trio, this is one I probably have the most to say about. But I should start from the beginning, sort of: I've eaten at Trio ten times in the last 8 months and eight of those meals have either been off the 4 or 8-course menu. Back in September I did the Tour de Force and enjoyed it a lot, but thought it was a bit too much for me and decided I would rest on it and come back to it at a later time. At the time I had only been dining at there for a few months and looking back I think it was too early on in the game to jump in that far. And I should note that most of the problem was probably more of an overall fatigue from sitting too long --I didn't feel too full, but rather kind of tired and "out-of-it" towards dessert. What I noticed then was I started fine, but by the time the last meat course came (think course 15-16 out of 22) I was seriously doubting my ability to finish the meal. Then when the intermezzo and dessert started to come, the change in texture, temperature and from savory to sweet provided a huge relief, but then again I started to worry again around course 19 with still three large desserts to go. I ended up having to send the last one back, unfinished, as it was too sweet for me at that point ("Celebration of Summer" with candied Heirloom tomatoes, sweet corn pudding and corn sorbet). That was back in September. And ever since then I've been really curious and excited to do it again, but the layout of the TDF seemed pretty much the same format each time I went and I was worried the same thing would happen. The last few times however, the temptation of the courses on the TDF -- the sheer number of them and the fact that a lot of really creative and edgy show up here -- was too much for me and I decided I had to do it again. During the time the Q&A with Chef Achatz was going on, I made a reservation for the 8th to do the TDF at the kitchen table (you also get the option of doing a smaller 12-15 course menu at the KT, but I wanted to go all the way). Then a a few days before my meal, I spoke to Chef and he asked if I was interested in trying some of the new approaches he has been talking about here on eGullet. Of course I said yes, yes, definitely, I was interested. He warned me that there would be some risk, as the dishes were all new and had not yet been completely explored. Which was completely fine with me--I was doing the TDF again mainly because I wanted that risk, the thrill and excitement that should inherently come with a menu this large and with this new approach to food. So I arrive very excited and get walked into the kitchen. Automatically I notice the energy level is very high; that this was going to be big. They had turned the kitchen table to face the kitchen (normally you face each other with the view off to the side), and it was a great touch. Front row seats to a great show! And then the menu arrived... I probably giggled or grinned, something like that, but whatever my response it was probably an understatement. I expected new courses, sure, a few, like 8-10 or something, but not 18!! It was unbelievable, as was the actual layout of the menu--something I want to discuss in detail below. For now, here is the menu: Golden Beetroot Juice mukashi soy, pumpkin seeds Pacific Sea Urchin parsnip milk, frozen banana, puffed rice Purée of Celeriac Soup black truffles, pears, celery branch Cucumber, Milk, and Rosewater Foams Pushed Foie Gras pears, Sauternes, salt roasted pear sorbet Sunchoke Parfait tangerine, maté, crispy sunchoke Passionfruit-Mustard ? (I didn't forget...this is what was actually printed on the menu. A little guessing game.) Bavarois of Grapefruit, Caramelized Dairy, Lobster White Asparagus from the Loire Valley progression of five flavors Mussel, Licorice, Parsley Curry Roasted Cauliflower fenugreek, apricot, pink peppercorns Maine Diver Scallop butternut squash, prosciutto, orange rind vapor Elysian Fields Farm Lamb Shabu Shabu style Charred Scottish Salmon Belly black tuffle, cocoa Confit of Veal Heart wild mushrooms, dark fruit purée, long peppercorns Ribeye of Prime Beef charcoal aromas, pommes maxin Salad "Bacon and Eggs" Chocolates olive, fennel, salt and pepper Tropicals Unusual Candies The meal was incredible. I have a lot of specific comments to make about each course and how Chef Grant and the sous-Chef Dave brought a lot of the courses over to my table and explained (and sometimes created) them, right in front of me. It was amazing-- I saw some of the most unbelievably creative, and humorous, and tasty dishes coming out of that kitchen that night. But I'll get to all that tomorrow. Because more important than any one course (and this kind of hints at why Chef doesn't and doesn't need to rely on any "signature dishes" that stay on the menu indefinitely) was the meal as a whole. For all my worrying about whether this would be too much food and whether I would be able to finish dessert, the meal was absolutely perfect. Perfect in size, perfect in layout, perfect in balance as far as flavors and savory/sweet and textures, temps, et. al go...I was never tired, never fatigued, never felt too full (but left full, sure), and finished all my dessert! Which, if you'll look at the menu above, you'll notice came in two parts. Dessert: Part I came as courses 5-8, shortly after the first few canapes, with 4 and 9 providing excellent transitions from savory to sweet, and overall maintained a savory tone (foie gras, sunchoke), but still those two courses just mentioned can only be classified as desserts---and damn good ones as well. This was so cool to see, and really kind of sets you off in a new direction for the rest of the meal. It changes your perspective as to where you are at in the course of the meal, and makes it seem to have more parts and therefore seem more "epic." The the middle section of the meal came and went and I was still feeling in the game completely as Dessert: Part II arrived, which provided a few larger and more easily recognizeable-as-dessert courses, which I was easily able to finish and enjoy all of. In the Q&A, Chef Achatz touched on the idea of "rolling hills," as opposed to a mountain with the peak representing the transition from savory to sweet, and that is exactly what he went for here. Of course there is the surpise/change-of-perspective aspect I sort of got at above, but then there is the whole issue of pacing. Traditionally one expects dessert at the end, sure, but when you are working with untraditional desserts (and untraditional food in general), then why follow this rule and strict format? I don't think it applies here. There were twenty-two courses and I honestly think that if I had to end them with six or seven dessert courses in a row, I doubt I could have made it; would have been too sweet for too long a period of time. Also, in so many restaurants dessert is an after thought, is viewed as optional and is accepted as such, after we stuff ourselves with appetizers and main courses. And when you are dealing with a pastry chef so astoundingly talented and in unison with the rest of the kitchen, as Paula is at Trio, it would be such a shame to not be able to give her courses all the justice they deserve, by filling up too early on. Not that this is the case with the TDF or at Trio in general (I blame more of what happened the first time on the sweetness of that specific course, rather than the actual meal), but I think mixing savory and sweet throughout the meal also just gives the pastry kitchen a basic "equality" that it lacks in a lot of places. This topic really deserves it's own thread and is certainly something I hope to see move into the spotlight, as more chefs question not just the ingredients and techniques used to create food, but also the aspects as to how and when and where those dishes will be presented and how this affects the diner's perception of a meal. It also comes off as one of these situations where the un-questioned rules of the past are now being questioned and proven wrong. Does sweetness dimish one's appetite? Apparently not. And the fact that the kitchen at Trio doesn't think so, and a handful of other chefs around the world don't either, seems like a good place to start. Okay, I have to get to some homework. I will definitely post again very soon (hopefully tomorrow) and go into more detail and touch on things I forgot to get to tonight.

Stone - Being in a similar position (I finish up high school at the end of May), I think the issue is very similar to anyone who wants to go into a field where success (whether that be realization of dream, material success, fame, whatever your definition...) may be a long way, if ever, down the road, but where the person has an enormous amount of passion for what they want to do. This applies not only to the culinary arts, but also to painting, writing, filmmaking, sculpture, architecture, and so many countless other jobs that people do and love for very little (or sometimes very much) money. But, if you really have to question whether you should make the decision, then it does kinda seem that you probably shouldn't. And that's not to say that we all don't doubt our decisions at some point, but I think if you are really worrying about whether money and security is more important than doing what you are passionate about, then it might create problems and impediments somewhere down the road. What if success takes five years? What if it takes ten? For me, the choice kind of made itself, almost as if I really have no choice -- that I cannot possibly idle through 4 years of college majoring in English, philosophy, or something else, only to get out and go apply for a job in a restaurant a day later. This wasn't always my plan and I really had no clue I wanted to go this direction at all until I walked into Trio for dinner on my birthday, last July and I've been really sure ever since. Before I was considering studying film, or literarure somewhere for four years...architecture was also an option I've taken seriously and liked for sometime, my dad being an architect and having grown up surrounded by books of Frank Lloyd Wright and Tadao Ando, but he warned me a few years ago about the state of the profession...how it is not the way it was back in the past, and that everything is done by computers now with very little creativity. And I haven't based my decision with that solely on his word...all I have to do is look around the suburb of Chicago I live in, at the houses -- expensive, boxy and all the same -- that have been built here in the last ten years, and realize that this is what I would be doing and that it is not, in fact, what I want to be doing. So as far as advice goes, I really can't give any from experience, but I do think that if you feel very strongly about going in a certain direction and are sure, at least as much as you can be, that it's what you want to do, then go for it. Too many people prescribe the same four years at college and too many people end up not liking their jobs. If you are lucky enough, like pastramionrye said, to find something you love, then why not goddamn it? Why not?

I had a really nice meal at mK last night with my uncle. Had been meaning to get there for sometime and since it was a Monday and the options were limited, we decided to go. It was snowy and cold outside so the room, just being warm, was nice; kind of comtemporary, but kind of rustic with the wooden beams, and the lighting was good (maybe a bit too dim, though). Amuse: Hard to remember, but it was a watercress salad of sorts with salmon and and some sort of roe on it and some sort of vinaigrette. Interesting, but obviously not too memorable. First course: Carrot soup with toasted cumin and cinnamon scented granny smith apple. Very good, especially with there being snow outside and the cold. A nice thick, spicey soup and I enjoyed the sweetness of the apple. My uncle ordered the butternut squash ravioli with root vegetables braised with cinnamon and nutmeg, which I tried and they were also very good. But very similar to the butternut squash ravioli you can get at Zia's Trattoria in Edison Park for a lot cheaper. Main course: We both ordered the roasted venison loin with spiced sweet potatoes, bitter greens and ginger scented red wine sauce. Another very filling and heavy course, great to eat in winter. The venison was cooked excellently -- medium rare, and very very tender -- and the sweet yet spicey element of the sweet potatoes provided a reference to the carrot soup from before and a good counterpart to the gamey tang of the venison. Venison is an extremely good meat, it seems, to pair with sweet potatoes or squash and chocolate (as they were doing over at Trio). Major and only real disappointment of the night: We ordered the pommes frites, but they never came! And by the time I realized that they should have indeed arrived, we were already almost done with the main course and ready for dessert. I probably should have said something (but didn't, of course) and I will have to make the trip back in a few months to get them. Maybe even ask for two orders then... Dessert: I can really see why Mindy Segal gets all the good press she does...her desserts are excellent! I had the warm Meyer lemon meringue bombe, a lemon curd tartlet tropical fruits and mango passion fruit sorbet. Meyer lemon is great (some guy in California, presumably named 'Meyer,' crossed an orange with a lemon) and the dessert as a whole was awesome. I also am a huge fan of passion fruit, so it won me over on a few levels. My uncle got the warm "pink lady" apple pie with cider caramel sauce granny smith apple granita and roasted apple ice cream and said it was great. Sadly that was the end, but I do plan to do back in a few months, if only for dessert...oh and I almost forgot (BUT DIDN'T!!!)...for the pommes frites, as well.

Chef Achatz - You obviously love food, but i'm curious as to whether becoming a chef has changed your perception of it at all (especially with regards to fine dining)? With all of the time and thought put in to your dishes, are you ever able to then appreciate and enjoy them in the same way the customers at Trio do, or does it become more of an intellectual appreciation as opposed to one of the senses? In Ruhlman's Soul of a Chef, Thomas Keller admits to having never actually tasted his signature "Oysters and Pearls" dish, yet he knows intellectually that the dish works, and has kept it on the menu at TFL for several years. And on a basic level it's easily to assume that, just like any other job, when you cook for a living you may not want to do it at home. Do you find that this is true with chefs? And finally --what this entire post has been leading up to-- what are some of your favorite things to eat when you are at home, or otherwise just not at Trio?

Chef Achatz, Thanks for taking the time to do this (and the last) Q&A session! You have already talked a bit about how the new cuisine forces changes upon both the kitchen and the guest. The lines between savory and sweet are being dissolved, and with this the kitchen starts to function more in unison, rather than as seperate groups of "specialists." On the diner's end, it becomes hard to make the distinction between this being dinner or entertainment. What I am curious about, is whether you see a similar sort of change with the way the waitstaff have to function? Being a main link between the chef and the guest (other than the actual food itself), it seems as though they are now doing much more than just bringing food to the table. There's pressure for them to think along the same lines as the kitchen, and have almost as great an understanding of the food. And with that knowledge of the food, and the advantage of being the ones to actually watch it being eaten by the diners (something the Chef usually lacks), it seems they would be able to provide some unique input to the kitchen. Do you think this may cause some of the lines between the front-of-the-house and the back-of-the-house to become blurred, as well?

chefg - Thanks for mentioning this dish, I had it once last year and could not recall what it consisted of besides roe and ginger. What exactly, is the significance of Michigan Brook Trout...the golden roe comes from one sole purveyor, correct? (I vaguely remember a story of how this type of fish roe came about by accident, but would be grateful to hear the details.) On the topic of purveyors, this seems like a good example of one of the smaller farms Trio deal with. How does the kitchen go about researching and eventually forming a relationship with various purveyors, mainly in regards to the smaller ones (such as Animal Farms in Vermont)? Is this done solely by the chef? Do you find Trio using the same places as other high-end restaurants (French Laundry seems kinda obvious), but I mean more in general? Besides a higher quality of product, does the chef find other advantages in the seemingly more personal relationship between a smaller purveyor and the kitchen? Perhaps a closer knowledge of the food, directly from someone who raises it for a living? Thanks...ryne

the english version of "El Bulli: 1998-2002"...i took two years of spanish, but thats not gonna help me much with the version out now. i don't think any bookstores around Chicago are carrying the spanish one, but i would like to go browse through it if they were. otherwise i'll order the english edition when it arrives. -ryne

Thoughts and comments relating to the spread of modern cuisine: I think chefg makes a very good point, that anyone out there who's doing these types of things with food is still greatly out-numbered by the stalwarts of the traditional French model. Just take New York for example--there is Blue Hill and Gramercy Tavern, but the focus remains with the French chefs. They are still having their day, and while this is not a problem at all, it's clear their days are numbered. This is not to say there won't be any more traditional French restaurants, but no one can pretend anymore that it all ends with Escoffier. There is definitely a "Food Revolution" going on with high-end dining, and similar to the Industrial Revolution it started with a small few, and will just get transfered on and on and be modified and improved on by the younger cooks who are just starting out now, or are still in culinary school, or who haven't even been born yet, with no end in sight and no way to stop it. And the press does play a huge role in this as well. The French Laundry really wasn't huge until Ruth Reichl wrote about it as being "The most exciting place to eat in the United States" in The New York Times. El Bulli has collected, over the last 10 years, an almost ridiculous amount of press (I posted a thread earlier on the Press Site and since then they have updated yet again with new articles from 2002, bringing the total to over 400 meticulously clipped and scanned articles.* God, I can't wait for that cookbook to hit the U.S. later this year!!!) As a testament to the effect of this exposure, el Bulli filled up for the whole year in one day last month. Which proves that people do indeed enjoy this type of cuisine. So, while el Bulli, Trio and FL all stand on the very edge of cuisine and are all very avant-garde, they are not so in the elitist sort of way that can be associated with avant-garde art, cinema, fashion, etc... Rather the food does a lot to please the people who eat it (not just those creating it), and they do try hard and succeed in making it accessible to the public. I've gone with friends, my sister, mom, etc., none of whom really have any interest in high end dining or food and they have all loved it and all wanted to go back. I think when it comes down to classifying and talking about this food, it works best to treat it as entertainment, and to communicate it as being that way. You certainly don't eat at any of these places simply because you are hungry--the whole experience goes way beyond that. Really it is food as the show- not dinner and a movie, but rather just dinner. There is a quote from a review of el Bulli off www.foodtourist.com that kinda fits: *note: relating to the el Bulli press site. as chefg said, there is a huge interest in Ferran Adrià in Japan and some of the Japanese press articles reflect this. more specifically, they include some very very cool pictures of his food (I think these might be taken from the cookbook). just limit the seach using the word "japones" and of particular interest are #4 ("Mr. Ferran Adriá gave a fantastic surprise for Mr. Joel Robuchon") and #10 (Revista Japonesa . Recetas de El Bulli from SPÉCIALITÉS magazine) for the amazing pictures.

Cabrales - Yep, Trio is inside the Homestead. It's a really charming inn on a residential street with some very nice homes, lots of trees and some great architecture (a few really huge churches). The area itself is beautiful, a few blocks west of the lake and south of Northwestern University. Also it puts the focus entirely on Trio, as opposed to being in a huge city with a lot of top notch places a few blocks away, and gives it that secluded, quiet feel. Kinda similar in way to the other restaurants that have come up in this thread (FL and el Bulli). People who live in the city have to make somewhat of a "trek" out to eat here. But really, Evanston is such a cool town - it's like my home away from home (but only 20 min. away ) -ryne

Cabrales - When ordering the menu is presented and after having some time to think, the staff (who are all extremely knowlegable and very helpful) will come to answer any questions about certain items. At this point you have a vague, unpolished idea of what you will be eating (if you look at the menu you will understand why - it tells you the elements of a dish, but rarely makes a mention of how they will be used or with what technique). This leaves a ton of room for suprise for when the food actually arrives at the table. The real description comes when the dishes are presented. Depending on the dish, they first deal with ingredients and the forms they are served in, such as "this is a goat's milk sorbet next to...". The focus is put first on the main element in the dish (this is the item that is in all CAPS on the menu) and if a technique warrants mentioning (such as how they poach some of the fish and meat in a vacuum sealed bag at low heat) it will be mentioned. Secondly the other elements of a certain dish are explained, and your attention is expected as some dishes are really complex and you will have no idea what the third layer is if you don't listen. At this point they will answer any questions or repeat anything you didn't catch (sometimes it's a lot to take in). In regards to the stability of certain dishes, the descriptions are never a problem, but there have been times where a question leads to a conversation and after a few moments I'll be told to eat my fish before it gets cold. After eating in this type of atmosphere, it's hard not to notice it missing immediately (and wish it was there) when you go somewhere else, where it does not exist. It's more than just being a luxury of the meal; it's really an integral part of appreciating and understanding the food. With prix fixe, multi-course menus, it would be impossible to remember what you read a few hours prior about what the course now sitting in front of you really is. This can almost go for a la carte menu's too, and I have eaten in nice places before where you order a piece of fish and it is brought out to you on a bed of something and next to something, but just set down on the table with no explanation. And aside from just explaining what you are about to eat, there is also a sense of story involved with a lot of the food at Trio. For instance the butter comes from Animal Farms in Vermont (The French Laundry also used this butter - extremely rich and a dark yellow color), owned by a woman who only has eight cows and they all have names and she sends notes explaining how each one is doing. So really you are getting both an appreciation of what Chef Achatz is doing in the kitchen and an appreciation of the food itself, and the life it had before it arrived at the door of the restaurant. As far as if other diners get all this, I'd like to think everyone who eats there and commits that much time and money to the experience would care at least this much about it, but then again, people do eat at places like this for many different reasons; and not always about the food. But in general, I do feel the other diners are all really into it and you'll hear gasps and laughs when the "Carmel Popcorn" amuse is served or the hot water is poured over orange peel. People seem to connect with it and have a lot of fun. -ryne

Steve does make a very good point. Aside from pulling out all the four-star reviews or explaining how Chef Achatz was sous chef at the French Laundry for several years (and then what that implies), I've found it difficult to talk people into going to Trio for the first time. But once you get anyone in there, it all makes sense. Really the food speaks for itself, but as Steve pointed out, it would be a lot easier to have a concise and precise way to talk about it. But really this almost seems impossible in a way; trying to explain a movement in cuisine that is focused much more on a mindset and approach towards the future, than with any region or ingredient. All regions apply, as do all ingredients (if desired by the chef). Also, there is the point ChefG made, about how it's really the beginning of this type of cooking, so for any of this to become clearly definined...well this may take some time. -ryne

Cabrales - I've been curious about this dish by Ferran Adrià for some time now...sounds good eh?

mike- about the halibut dish -- well, first there is the way it is served, like you said, wrapped in mustard leaves (i think), and second is the usage of mustard in the sauce, which has a similar effect as wasabi. of course the dish itself is not technically sushi at all, as the fish is cooked and served heated. definitely, though it was a suprising and very creative dish. 'chefg' is correct about the smaller dishes and canapes tending more towards creativity, but lately some of the main courses have that feeling about them as well! -ryne

Steve Plotnicki - It seems to me there are two issues being dealt wth here: techniques of preparing food and the food itself. My opinion is that what becomes very "modern and inventive" (not only at Trio, but also with Ferran Adrià, Thomas Keller, and hopefully other chefs in other countries more and more now) is focused more on the former catagory, rather than the later. This deals with the usage of all the techniques mentioned earlier by 'chefg' and also with the way common dishes are deconstructed and presented in new forms. Having eaten at Trio several times and seen the menu change over the months, one thing I've noticed is Chef Achatz does indeed tend to play with "classic American dishes" that he and we all grew up with: hamburger and rootbeer, milkshakes, pizza, popcorn, ice cream sandwich, potato chips, etc... As you mentioned Keller also does this as well (having grown up with the same things), but in complete contrast, Ferran Adrià's food contains references to traditional Catalan dishes from the areas of Spain he grew up in. A meal at el Bulli will include a tapas section and he seems to focus a lot on sardines, prawns, meditarranean flavors of the sea, etc... So I do have to disagree and say Trio fits in as a sometimes highly American cuisine, albeit very "modern and inventive." (I will also note, that it seems Keller is a bit conservative by comparison, as far as technique is concerned; he seems to favor some of the more traditional French methods of yesteryear, with regards to cooking meats and fish, and does not use a lot of foams, ices, gelatin...). But, with these chefs, there are also the global influences, which come up from all over the board. Off the top of my head (I'm kinda exhausted so bear with me) two good examples from Trio of this are the passion fruit (or sometimes mango) lassi they serve, a traditional Indian drink and the halibut dish with rutebega-mustard that maintains the essence of sushi (partly). And finally there are the dishes -- many of them -- which are completely original and new, but still aren't just random flavor combinations; rather, modern approaches to flavors that do work together, or otherwise they would never make it out of the kitchen. And I would be hard pressed to really think of something I've eaten Trio that didn't work (although I've had heard rumours that this has been the case of late at el Bull, but I'm still dying to go!) Still, these three chefs do get grouped together for a reason. They are all doing food that is (to steal Steve's way of putting it again, since it is such an excellent way to do so) "modern and inventive" (and I'll add two more words: fun and entertaining). As 'chefg' stated earlier, "The days of putting a piece of protein in a hot pan are almost over." I would have to agree. Ferran Adrià also can be quoted as saying "it's over for the French chefs," right after receiving his third Michelin star. As new technology becomes available along with the access to practically any ingredient desired (by the way, what are: paw paws, cronses, limequats, galangal, cardoons..?), why should a chef not use them and only stay true to one region of France or one "identifiable cuisine"? Cabrales - This is a direct quote from Pastry Chef at Trio, Paula Haney: "In addition to planning and overseeing Trio's pastry menu, I am also responsible for designing our cheese offerings. Like my pastry menu, the cheese plate has a strong seasonal focus. While I never put geographic limits on my cheese courses, I usually include one or more American artisinal cheeses." It's from the American Cheese Society website here

Here is the correct description of the parfait (and trust me this dish deserves the correction): Layer of tangerine curd on the bottom, fresh tangerine supremes above that, vanilla sunchoke custard and mate foam on top. It's now being served on the 8-course tasting menu!

Sorry it's taken so long to post comments, notes, clairifications, etc. on the meal at Trio. I just started a new semester and have been busy with work at school. Probably should have done this earlier, as my memory of certain things was much better a few days ago. Anyway, here are the courses: "CARAMEL POPCORN" - amuse-bouche; this is warm sweet-corn pudding enclosed in a carmelized sugar shell. it "pops" when you bite down on it...a very fun and sweet way to start the meal. OSETRA CAVIAR kola nut ice, frothed milk - Iranian caviar in a martini glass with kola nut ice and frothed milk...caviar was very good quality so I wasn't really concentrating on the taste of the other two elements, but they did provide a nice texture FENNEL BULB AND HEIRLOOM BEETS licorice, goat milk sorbet, grapefruit - probably one of my favorite dishes of the night...chilled fennel and heirloom beets with licorice foam, goat milk sorbet, grapefruit puree and grapefruit cells...a lot of intense flavors, which all worked great together...bitterness of the beets and grapefruit was complimented well by the goat milk sorbet and licorice. I really would like to have this dish again. PURÉE OF CELERIAC SOUP black truffles, pears, celery branch - soup came in a clear PVC cylinder, hollow on each end, which was lifted when it was served, allowing the soup to pour out into the bowl. very sweet and creamy, but also had a light consistency...not very heavy as I expected it to be. there were some huge slices of shaved black truffle, along with a custard infused with black truffle oil, so this was the dominant taste. the soup itelf doesn't have the strong bitterness of celery, and the pears add the sweetness. very cool dish to watch being served, and the truffle servings were very generous. MAINE DIVER SCALLOP butternut squash, prosciutto, orange rind vapor - replacement to the infamous "maine lobster with rosmary vapor" dish and served the same way (small bowl in larger bowl with hot water poured over the orange peel in larger bowl to release the aroma). I always loved the lobster/rosmary dish, and so did a lot of people because it was on the menu for about a year, i believe. When I heard the menu was going through some huge changes, I was worried Chef had taken this off completely. Glad to see that he didn't, since it brings such a different level to the meal. After eating the said lobster dish several times I don't think I'll ever be able to smell rosemary again without thinking of the dinning room at Trio or lobster. I say 'the dining room at Trio' because anyone who's eaten there knows that even if you are eating off the 4-course Prix Fixe menu w/o this course, you will smell it, when the 4-top next to you is having hot water poured, similtaneously, over four bowls. Anyway, after eating this dish, I probably would say I still enjoyed the lobster better, but this dish is excellent. Really I just like lobster more than scallops, but diver caught scallops are indeed good. The butternut squash gave it a nice sweetness and the prosciutto was dried, and really just provided a texture to contrast the tenderness of the scallop (which by the way was the best scallop I have had...bigger and more tender than the one at Spring a month ago). The orange peel was cool...certainly a flavor that would not have necessarily been great squeezed over the scallop, but as an aroma it worked. I spoke to Chef Achatz after the meal and he said they were still playing around with this dish, so there will probably be some changes in the near future. STEAMED NORTH ATLANTIC HALIBUT black truffles, rutebega-mustard juice - coolest and most creative fish course i've had. the steamed halibut came wrapped in mustard leaves [looked exactly like sushi wrapped in nori], with a packet of rutebega on top (not positive it was rutebega in the ravioli-like packet) and shaved black truffle and gnocchi spread around. Then the dish was sauced at the table with a beaker full of rutebega-mustard juice!! This was a very fun dish and a cool take on sushi. Fish was cooked perfectly...tender and flakey. Mustard sauce might have covered up the taste of the black truffle a bit too much, but there wasn't a whole lot of truffle on it and it wasn't supposed to be a dominant flavor. Also I really liked that it was sauced at the table and the beaker was cool - it gave off a 'mad scientist,' alchemy feel. "PIZZA" - Fun course. A stamp-sized square of vegetable paper dusted with the flavors of pizza. Dissolves in your mouth, and tastes like...pizza. The complete anti-thesis of those Listerine 'Cool Strips.' POACHED ELYSIAN FIELDS FARM LAMB sweet potato, four flavors grated (those being: black truffle, chocolate, hazelnut, brioche flavored with jamaican peppercorn) - Perfectly cooked lamb. I believe Trio and The French Laundry are the only two places to serve Elysian Fields Farm lamb. Truly it is excellent. Poached en-suvignon (check that spelling...it's supposed to be French for "in a bag"). They poach the lamb in a vacuum-sealed bag at 120 degrees F (I think, but again you might want to check that) for a long time. Lamb ends up very tender and looks almost rare, all the way through! Sweet potato and chocolate cookie go great with the lamb and the sauce is a reduction of the 4 flavors. Same 4 flavors are all grated seperately in brussel sprout leaves...allowing you to test and see what each flavor brings to the lamb, but the chocolate and black truffles were the standouts...(big surprise about the black truffle, right!?) BRAISED PRIME BEEF SHORT RIB root beer flavors - They did a different dish about a year ago with the same root beer flavors: vanilla-scented burdock root, sassafras root, and fennel (I think) but from what I hear it was a completely different preperation. The dish came in what looked like a rocks glass blown up to twice or three times it's normal size. The braised prime rib was served pretty simple with prunes and two sticks of salsify, looking like frites on the side and with the root beer flavors it provided a cool deconstruction of a hamburger, fries and a glass of rootbeer. ARTISAN and FERMIER CHEESES seasonal fruits, candied nuts - I didn't write the cheese names down and there is no way i'll ever remember them...there were four and I do highly recommend ordering this extra course for $14. The fromagier is extremely knowlegable and they have a great selection of cheeses. Intermezzo - YOGURT WATER GRANITA carmelized onion sorbet/or custard (don't quite remember which it was) - Carmelized onion was sweet and savory, while the yogurt water granita was more of a refreshing texture than anything else. Not sure onion is the greatest thing for clearing the palate though, but it was an interesting dish. PARFAIT tangerine, summerchoke(?), top layer of foam I do not remember - I have't found out what exactly was in the parfait (it was offered as an extra course compliments of the pastry chef and was so good I didn't really care about clarification at the time). Honestly one of the best desserts I've ever eaten...I do know that the bottom layer was tangerine, the middle was either summerchoke or artichoke, and the top layer was a M_____ foam, which I know really doesn't help. Hopefully this will go on the menu and then we will know! TRIO TARTE apple, porter beer, blue cheese sauce - Another excellent dessert I really am not sure about...it consisted of apple with a porter beer foam, and then a blue cheese sauce that you poured on the side of the plate. There was a sorbet on top, but I forget what it was...maybe graham cracker sorbet...not sure. BLACK TRUFFLE-ROASTED BANANA MILKSHAKE - Looks exactly like an Oreo-milk shake, but it's really black truffles - back again at the end of the night for an encore! I also had the white truffle-roasted banana milkshake at Trio last November, and both work great. Comes in a flute and they put sea-salt around the rim to really give the flavors a kick. Very very good milkshake...what more can I say... GINSENG FIZZ blood orange, grains of paradise - This is awesome, if only for the way they bring out a huge 500-1000mL beaker full of crushed ice with a test tube submerged in the center, and then the straw in an Erlenmeyer flask. It's very strong, with the blood orange and grains of paradise, which is a citrus like fruit from the Middle East (Iraq I think). A cool and refershing way to end the meal. It's really funny to see people throughout the night with what looks like an elaborate science experiment sitting on their table, sipping from a test tube. Definitely this was a meal that raises the bar for Trio and Chef Achatz. Having seen the menu change completely a few times over, it's clear how he is defining his own style and direction. In most reviews and articles about Trio, it is noted how he had been sous-chef at The French Laundry for several years and had a stage at el Bulli and that he has been influenced by both Thomas Keller and Ferran Adrià. One meal at Trio, however, and you see how much broader his influences really are. At Trio they explore everthing - high and low cuisine, old and new, the world over - and really it makes the whole experience something so different than the 'norms' of fine dining. Another aspect worth mentioning is the freshness and quality of ingredients and purveyors. Lots of private farms (the butter comes from a lady in Vermont who only owns 8 cows) and really just a lot of people who care about what they do as much as the chef and staff at Trio. Having never eaten at The French Laundry, but obsessively studied the cookbook, this seems to me one of the most apparent concepts Grant has brought with him from there to Trio - the strong bonds connecting purveyor to restaurant to customer.

I ate dinner at Trio tonight (actually last night by now) and was going to write about it when I got home, but I ended up going to a friend's and just got home now. I'm kinda tired, so I will try to keep this short and post more details sometime tomorrow. The meal was excellent; perfectly composed from start to finish, dishes were unique and all tasted wonderful and there was a very balanced progression of tastes throughout the meal. Never did I feel that I had had too much of a flavor, nor did I ever really wish the portion was bigger. I'm really starting to appreciate at Trio how well the transitions of flavors from savory to sweet are handled, without letting any course over-shadow the one preceding or following it. Because of this, a real star emerges in the pastry kitchen, led by pastry chef Paula Haney. Her desserts are intense, to say the least. They are extremely memorable, which says a lot after eating over ten other courses which are also extremely memorable. They are refreshing (very important after the heaviness of the preceding meat courses) and provide a needed change right around the time one starts to doubt one's ability of making it through the last stage of the meal (esp. with regards to the Tour de Force menu). And they are also very fun; the Black Truffle-Banana Milkshake and the test-tube/Erlenmeyer flask that accompany the Ginseng Fizz - both very cool. However, they all fit in perfectly and remain true to Chef's style and his vision, so the experience becomes seamless. List of courses I had: Amuse-bouche - "CARAMEL POPCORN" OSETRA CAVIAR kola nut ice, frothed milk (caviar was Iranian I believe) FENNEL BULB AND HEIRLOOM BEETS licorice, goat milk sorbet, grapefruit PURÉE OF CELERIAC SOUP black truffles, pears, celery branch MAINE DIVER SCALLOP butternut squash, prosciutto, orange rind vapor STEAMED NORTH ATLANTIC HALIBUT black truffles, rutebega-mustard juice "PIZZA" POACHED ELYSIAN FIELDS FARM LAMB sweet potato, four flavors grated (those being: black truffle, chocolate, hazelnut, brioche flavored with jamaican peppercorn) BRAISED PRIME BEEF SHORT RIB root beer flavors ARTISAN and FERMIER CHEESES seasonal fruits, candied nuts Intermezzo - YOGURT WATER GRANITA carmelized onion sorbet/or custard (don't quite remember which it was) PARFAIT tangerine, summerchoke(?), top layer of foam I do not remember - this was one of the best desserts I've ever had (besides the Pushed Foie Gras dessert with Bosc pears they do), and I'll try to find out what the top two layers were...truly it was ethereal TRIO TARTE apple, porter beer, blue cheese sauce - again, I'll try to find out what exactly was in this dessert (I didn't take home the menu for the 4-course tasting which it was printed on)...it was very very good, I really like apple and it reminded me of an apple bavarian dessert with maple foam and swiss chard granita they were doing last month...both very memorable, but different BLACK TRUFFLE-ROASTED BANANA MILKSHAKE GINSENG FIZZ blood orange, grains of paradise Thanks to chefg for typing most of this out a few hours ago so I could just copy and paste it. I'll post more of my thoughts and comments on specific courses tomorrow. Good night.