VivreManger

This doubling is curious since I just returned to the States on Monday. The Customs Forms still state $400. It was moot in my case since together we three travelers had less than $800, but I am curious when the forms will catch up with the law.

More bad news. There is an air traffic controller's slow-down in western Europe. The information I have gotten so far is inconsistent. The BBC, last time I checked, claimed a 32 hour French strike starting Monday, today. Air France claims a more general strike will end on Wednesday, 27 November, 0600 (Paris time). They also claim that while some flights will be cancelled, my routing, Boston-Paris-Geneva, Tuesday/Wednesday remains in service. However at best there will be delays. I may not make lunch at La Petite Grappe in Lausanne. I have been trying to locate a reliable source of info. The IHT, Figaro, Liberation, and Le Monde sites had nothing, only the BBC. What is the RTF site? I have found it in the past, but not at the moment. Is there any good news web-site based in France that is likely to have accurate information on travel. A quick look at the Frequent Flyer Website hangout site did not look promising. This site seems more active and well-informed.

Thanks for all the info. For what it is worth, I am flying Air France in and out of Geneva; I will be buying Swiss francs with an American ATM card in Switzerland and Euros with the same card in France so I should avoid the double-hit. Since Switzerland is not part of the EuroCommunity, are there any deals in the duty free shop? I would be happy to get a cheap bottle of Black Label for my Paris hostess -- I will avoid the caviar. Since I will be training all the way to Lausanne, I don't think I can avoid a ticket-checker those 45 to 50 minutes, but thanks for the advice on short trips. Generally, I have bought tickets on Swiss and Euro trains, but one has to pay a supplement and can't use a credit card. I am intrigued by the French sector/Swiss sector organization of the airport. Does that mean that since I am flying from Paris to Geneva, it is regarded as an internal French flight and in effect I don't cross the border when I land, but only when I move from one sector to another within the airport? Duty-free shops aren't what they used to be and they are generally more a convenience than a bargain, but I am curious as to whether they can even exist in such a setting. With gratitude

Thanks for the useful responses. Since I have tapped into a mother-lode of information, let me ask another question. At Charles de Gaulle, where in terminal 2 F and 2C are the ATMs located these days? Although I am flying off to Geneva, my wife and kids are staying in Paris so they need to get some cash right away in 2F where they arrive. When I return to Paris, via terminal 2C, I will have to get some Euros for myself. One time I was in CDG the only bank network ATM in my terminal was in the passenger arrival area and that was out of order because of a strike by armored car drivers. All the other terminals were for credit cards alone. My recollection that the Geneva airport is much smaller and better organized, but any details there would be appreciated. As for favorite airport stories. Back in the 60s I got hijacked to Cuba. In addition to strong Cuban coffee and stronger Havana cigars, the lounge at Jose Marti airport was dotted with Cuban women, sketching the clothing of the American women so they could bring the latest US fashions to the island.

Tigerwoman's recent question about Frankfurt airport raises the general question of airport lore. Next week I have a flight from the States ultimately arriving in Geneva at 0910, to take the next train for Lausanne. Does anyone know the Geneva airport well enough to estimate how much time to allow for transfer from the arrival gate to the train station located within the airport complex? Here I want to move quickly. What kind of passport control on flights from Paris to Geneva exists these days? I will take a carry-on bag so I won't have to wait for luggage. It strikes me that someone could make some money writing a guide to getting around airports. Since a lot of information can be garnered from web-sites, the research should not be too onerous.

For what it is worth, Pierre Hermé is alive and well as of 20 minutes ago. I called them to get a price list so that I could order in advance as Marc Cosnard des Closets had suggested a few weeks ago. On the other hand this was my second attempt. When I first called 10 days ago I asked them to mail it to the States. It has yet to arrive. This time I asked them to FAX it. As for their specialities, I am not devoted to either shredded coconut or marzipan, but exotic fruit is a favorite. I do not plan to grand bouffe on macaroons. The fruit and chocolate pastries sound appealing. Any more info would be welcome since I will probably order sight on seen when I get to Paris in a few weeks.

I recommend Darkoum near the old Bibliotheque Nationale, off rue des Petites Champs, 44 rue Sainte-Anne, 75002 Paris 01-42 96 83 76, 42 96 59 97. I have been going there for years and have always enjoyed my meals. No spectacular fusion razz matazz, but solid Moroccan food well-presented and served. At lunch it tends to be quiet, not crowded, and relaxing. At dinner, when I have never been, there can be music and belly-dancing, which is when I suspect they make their money. It is around the corner from WILLI’S Wine bar 13, rue des petits champs Métro Palais Royal, 20 A 35 € Tél. 01 42 61 05 09. One of Willi's great appeals is if you want to have a good late lunch, past the normal serving hours, they will serve you at the bar. I realize that the Palais Royale metro stop is not on any direct Montparnasse line, but you can change at Concorde for line 1.

They joined Zippo and the rest of Wendy's family in never-never land.

I don't know if this thread is still getting attention since the trip is done, but a few added notes. La Ferme Saint Hubert, 21 rue Vignon, is definitely worth a visit. One of the last times I went, the owner, Henri Voy, treated me to a glass of red and a very tasty plate of cheese at his restaurant next door. I particularly like their selection of brin d'amour. BTW I like this cheese well-ripened, slightly yellow and soft -- like a good brie -- as opposed to its somewhat chalky creamy white state when it is still young. The best brin d'amour I ever had was one I bought at Saint Hubert and left in the back of my car on a trip to Normandy during a particularly hot summer about twenty years ago. After a day or two, the cheese ripened to a deliciously runny state. Has anyone else had similar success with this chesse? When I buy it in the States, except occasionally at Zabar's, it is difficult to find the variety of ripenesses that a good French cheese shop can offer. In Boston it is so expensive that I never buy a whole cheese and am dependent on the state of what they happen to have at the Newton branch of the Bread and Circus chain. Another good cheese shop is on the street next to the Marche Batignolles at the end of the rue des Batignolles, in the 17th. I can't remember the name, but their brin d'amour were smaller than those at St-Hubert and therefore more affordable as well as more easily ripened. They had a good selection of calvados flavored camembert. Nearby is a very good wineshop. Unfortunately I have not been there since 1997 when I was living in the neighborhood so I can't vouch for the current quality of either place. Another well-know shop is La Ferme Saint-Aubin, 76 rue Saint-Louis en l'île, 4th 01 43 54 74 54. As I recall they have a particularly strong selection of chevres. If anyone picks up this string and wishes to continue the subject of cheese, I have a number of other issues to discuss: experience bringing cheese into the US, and the name of a particular chevre I got years ago at Saint-Aubin. BTW, the rue Vignon is not quite the gourmand mecca it used to be. Many years ago a store named Tanrade used to be there as well -- I think the site was taken over by Maison de Miel. They had the most amazing collection of confitures, jams, syrops and essences for fruit sorbet, I have ever seen. They retired and sold their recipes to Furet Tanrade 01 47 70 48 34, FABRICATION DE CONFISERIES ET DE CHOCOLATS, 63 r Chabrol 75010, not as sympa a location, but if you like fruit essences worth a trip. But double check the number first since I have not had the time to get their in a few years. If you like to make your own sorbet, their unsugared fruit reductions are amazing convenience. Even if you just want to cook with a variety fruit flavors, they are very handy.

I have been going to Le Ferme St Simon over the years and have never been disappointed. Lunch is a bit hectic, while dinner is more leisurely. It is a very good and reliable restaurant, reasonably priced for Paris, and not difficult to reserve. The last meal I had there was about two years ago. The cassoulet was savory and smokily delicious. I am glad you too enjoyed your meal there.

Do any of you have anything to add to this post that I copied from the Patricia Wells' Web-site. I had been planning to eat at Le Petit Marguery at the end of November when I will be in Paris and I would like to know how soon this departure will take place. By the way have any of you eaten there recently? Any recommendations. My wife and teen/pre-teen daughters are soft on vegetarianism and would probably prefer fish or foul to hearty gibier. Is there any fish on Le Petit Marguery's menu? Thanks "I too felt my face drop when I read, in Patricia Wells IHT column, that the Cousin brothers were leaving their lively, engaging Le Petit Marguery. I shall miss them very much, especially Alain, who ran the front of the house with a rare combination of humor and professionalism. What is happening to the three brothers, now that they are leaving ? And why did they decide to stop?"