VivreManger
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Posts posted by VivreManger
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Atasco the Portuguese restaurant on Broadway in Cambridge is not bad. I particularly like their appetizers.
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My London dining dates will not be limited to Sunday night so there is no reason to have my Gordon Ramsay experience be at a time when the options are fewer. Square and Capital have certainly been well-praised, though I note that Macrosan did not like his meal at the latter.
Any negative comment on Square?
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Thanks for the quick responses.
Given the contradiction in terms between hotel and fine dining, am I wrong to assume that
Gordon Ramsay at Claridges would not be as worth visiting as his other two, Petrus and the one at Royal Hospital Road. i.e., that the food would be less imaginative and the price higher???
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Recent postings on Gordon Ramsay (Royal Hospital Road) and the new Tom Aikens restaurant have suggested that some of London's best restaurants are closed on Sunday. Am I correct?
If so, is that also true for Foliage, Chez Bruce, La Trompette, Ramsay's Petrus, Pied a terre, Nobu, The Square, River Cafe, Mela, and St John, to mention a few that have been discussed on this site recently?
Am I correct in understanding that G. Ramsay has two, the eponymous estabnlishment on Royal Hospital Road in Chelsea and Petrus, and that both close on Sunday?
By 2/3 star restaurants, I don't necessarily restrict the list to those formally so designated by Michelin and the equivalent, but those in that range or aspiring to it.
By the way what very good restaurants appropriate to my category have I missed?
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Given all the horrid things that are happening in the world today, I find it absurd that anyone should get upset about booing a national anthem.
Better booing than bombing.
I hope Rosalie's sticks to its all French wine list.
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For those not in the London loop, would you mind sharing the Aikens coordinates? In order to eat London in October, I am now gathering destinations.
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The correct name is Au Petit Marguery, 9 bd du Port-Royal, 13th (01.43.31.58.59). I ate there in early December. too soon after the change in ownership to note any changes. I posted a review a few months ago, but I am afraid I can't recover the thread at this moment. As far as I know, no email, but the new management may change that!!! They do answer the phone and agreeably respond to questions, but I did not try them in English. I too have pestered people to check out the new regime, but no one has taken the bite, not even a well-known poster in these parts who has a professional interest in such matters. Oh well, perhaps he is on holiday.
The le/au confusion is omnipresent, but the pages jaunes has "Au".
Here are the main points of that earlier posting:
One sea-food ravioli: a surprisingly good combination of oriental style shrimp-based ravioli in a Mediterranean zuppe de pesce-like broth. One pheasant terrine: disappointing. I could have had better charcuterie from almost any corner-deli in town. And the cornichons were nowhere to be found. The pleasant French couple at the table close by ordered the assortment of terrines. I did not taste theirs but by appearance, the food did not look significantly different, i.e. better, than mine.
Mixture of five wild mushrooms, roasted with garlic: nothing too exciting. I found them a bit dry and stringy. The garlic was not as assertive as I would have liked. I ordered the biche (i.e. doe), one of the tastiest bits of meat I have ever eaten. I had never ordered doe before since I don't think it has appeared on any menu in the States. Perhaps restaurateurs fear that serving bambi might drive even some dedicated carnivores into the arms of PETA. In my case however, it only reinforced my carnivorous instincts. Doe, as prepared at Au Petit Marguery, is superb, even better than any venison dishes I have enjoyed. About four-five years ago I had venison at Jean-Georges' NY restaurant and this Paris dish was superior.
The doe was very simply prepared, seared to a pleasing crispness on the outside, the outer flesh, almost caramelized in sweetness. Inside the flesh had a gamy richness that everyone at the table enjoyed (I did not tell my daughters they were eating bambi -- just steak). The meat was poised on a richly buttered bit of toast and surrounded by large tear-dropped shaped purees of winter root vegetables, different turnips and potatoes. The tastes complimented each other well.
Dessert, a well-made crème brulee. The mignardaises consisted of crystallized citrus peel and lovely light and tasty butter cookies.
We sat at the entry of the restaurant, designated for no-smokers. None of the other nearby diners, all French, smoked either. The interior of the restaurant is lovely, perhaps more attractive, but the bright airy room where we dined suited us well.
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Let me pile on against Polidor. It does have the appropriate appearance, but... About thirty years ago the food was decent. Tthe last time I went, eleven years ago, nothing we ordered was worth eating, except perhaps the frites, and we had their tried and true dishes, blanquette de veau, tarte tatin, etc. This is a restaurant worth a visit as long as you don't eat there.
We reported all of this to the Parisian friend with whom we were staying. She was dismayed, "mais, c'est un classique"
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Here is the latest NYTimes word on the provenance of New York pastrami.
http://www.nytimes.com/2003/04/30/dining/3...print&position=
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Another vintner that has produced good kosher wines in the past is the California label, Gan Eden.
The Weinstock Contour label has been reliable as well.
Some of the Golan Heights wines are quite good.
I have had some good Muscat wines, one Italian, the other (not as good) Israeli which I would recommend for desert. The Italian runs about $13-$14. The Israeli a little under $10.
I am going later today to the local supplier and will check labels for you.
Baron de Herzog is an American label, not Israeli. I believe that is actually owned by the American kosher grape juice company Kedem.
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Even for Sefardim, couscous is not considered kosher for Passover.
The source of the difference between Sefardi and Ashkenazi Passover food norms is perhaps worth a separate thread, but it is a fascinating culinary problem which illustrates the way in which the social-religious context (Christian Easter versus no comparable Muslim holy day) determines dietary restrictions.
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One restaurant I have enjoyed -- ate there once about three years ago is
le DOME DU MARAIS, 53B r Francs Bourgeois 75004 PARIS, 01 42 74 54 17, FAX 01 42 74 54 61
Last time I checked it got a 14 in the Gault-Millaut. The chef, Pierre Lecoutre, who was formerly at l'Atlantide in Nantes has a distinguished reputation. In addition to being reasonably priced, lunch menu at about $25, dinner at $40, it also offers a discount for children, at least according to the following web-site:
http://www.parissi.com/ultrag/marais/ledom...omedumarais.htm.
I had a very good hare stew as well as a delicate scallop and crab nague.
The restaurant has a spectacular domed dining room, a remodelled 18th century credit union (Mont de Piété), with rich red walls, which is well-described and illustrated in Pairscope.
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Thanks for the review. I have checked the website and the menu seems admirably varied, suitable for the diverse demands of a party of 6, ranging from 12 to 80.
Do you have any idea how well Scott Campbell does venison? Do you remember if it was on the menu when you went?
Also the upper west side noise question. How noisy was it that Monday night? Are there any quiet corners?
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"The Portugese Bakery on Commercial is worth a trip for their meat pies, rabanadas and pastries." Bourdain.
That place is definitely worth a visit. It reminds me of St. Viateur's bagels in Montreal and is more authentically ethnic, since it is still Portuguese. Even after stuffing myself at the Lobster Pot a hundred yards or so down the street, I still have managed a Portuguese custard or two at this bakery. It's that short walk that opens the arteries and lets the good pastries roll on down the gullet.
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Pat Goldberg, "But I would strongly urge you to avoid the Eastham Lobster Pool in North Eastham. For many years, this set a standard of excellence, especially for lobster rolls, on this part of the Cape. I have not eaten there in several years since it started to go seriously downhill. On the other hand, our son tried it last year and was grievously disappointed."
I second the avoidance of the Eastham Lobster Pool, definitely down the skids.
I do apologize for mixing Goldsmith with Goldberg, in my original posting. I welcome your comments which I have always respected. Now if we can only get the name of that restaurant straight. I did edit and correct my original posting to "Finely JP's", but now Pat tells us that it is JP Finely's. Whatever....
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I will accept any unwanted French wine with pleasure.
If this absurd action continues perhaps US prices will drop and we can get some bargains.
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Name -- Ola??
Location??
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In South Wellfleet on Rt. 6, on the Ocean Side there is an unprepossessing place with a name like PJ's Fine Dining, not to be confused with a similarly named clam shack closer to Wellfleet Center. It does an impressive job on a range of dishes. Warning on weekend nights in particular the wait can be long since they don't reserve.
EDITED CORRECTION:
THE RESTAURANT IS CALLED FINELY JP'S
Aesops' Tables in Wellfleet Center was great about 25 years ago, but I don't think it has weathered the decades well. Nothing else within central Wellfleet is terribly good, except for the Flying Fish which does decent breakfasts.
Another Route 6 institution is Arnold's, on the same side of 6, but much closer to (perhaps in) Eastham. It has excellent fried everything and the oysters aren't bad. In Orleans there are two excellent restaurants, almost across the street from each other on Beach Road, the Nauset Beach Club and another place, called Joe's, I believe.
In P-Town, I have always liked the crowded touristy Lobster Pot, right in the middle of town. They do a decent cioppino, plus the full range of standard seafoods. Nothing imaginative or spectacular, but reliable fish. I think they have the best Portuguese kale soup. The rest of the restaurants nearby are not as good. There is a pizzeria on route 6, lodged within a motel, called Antoine's perhaps. Lots of hype, but not worth the price or the hoopla.
In general Chowhound is very good for New England, but I can't remember if the Cape is listed under Boston or New England. Its worth a few minutes search to see what you can find. I have often found Pat Goldsmith's postings (I think that is her name) reliable -- she lives on the Cape pretty close to year-round.
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French Beer
in Beer
Let's define our terms.
We are not talking about Northern French artisanal beers, but rather the mass-produced Kronebourg-Meteor-Fischer varieties.
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French Beer
in Beer
"I hate to be the dissenter on this thread, but in my experience, France has uniformly mediocre beer. I've tried most of the brands discussed here and they all seem to be at about the same level of quality as the mass-produced American lagers to me. " Tighe
I want to second and slightly modify this dissent. I don't think they are as bad as Bud, but they come close to it.
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Do you know if Beyoglu has tavuk gogsu -- the chicken breast rice milk pudding on the menu? I have yet to find it anyplace outside of sweetshops in Turkey.
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Without really examining the question, I have always felt that most of the great cuisine traditions of the world are ultimately reflections derived from lavish imperial court life. The French, the Chinese, and the Ottomans did in fact have such culinary cultures and the cuisines that have developed within each setting draw inspiration from that centuries-long tradition. I am not arguing that everything within Turkish, French, or Chinese cooking is a reflection of court cuisine or that countries without such a tradition, i.e. Italy, cannot produce great food, but rather that an imperial kitchen creates models for cooking, a lavishness and intricacy of preparation that creates a standard and raises the bar for all who follow, even after the empire has long disappeared.
In addition as Anil has persuasively argued, the role of great imperial capitals as entrepots, centers of world-girding cosmopolitan trade and exchange, supplies the diverse knowledge and ingredients that inspire imagination and experimentation in the kitchen.
I remember a meal in a simple Turkish restaurant more than twenty years ago, not far from Topkapi, near the old palace of the Ottoman grand vizier. The dish of the day was eggplant puree with baked lamb. The dish was simple, but profound in its combination of textures and colors. Purple eggplant was peeled and rendered white. A vegetable that can be bitter and tough was pureed into a creamy consistency, off-white in color. I have not studied Ottoman cooking, but the transformations involved to create this dish struck me as embodying in a simple and modest fashion, intricate lessons derived from the kitchens of the court.
A far better example of this is Tavuk Gogsu (the second g is a silent lengthener of the previous vowel -- the v is pronouced like a cross between u and w), beaten creamed chicken breast pudding. I posted a brief recipe of this a few days ago within a discussion of kazan dibi, bottom of the pot pudding -- I think it was in the general cooking forum.
I have often mused as to what inspired the inventors of this pudding into combining overcooked, mashed chicken breast with buffalo milk, sugar, and rice flour in this rich creamy confection. It would require a kitchen capable of experimentation, where the expectations of the patrons demanded constant imaginative innovation.
Much of Greek cooking -- the deserts in particular I would argue -- is derived from these Ottoman traditions. Musakka is in fact an Arabic word. Ottoman cooking combines central Asian traditions that spread eastward and westward -- bulkogi is the Korean variation on what became westward doner kebab -- with the Near Eastern and Mediterranean traditions. Persian and Indian rice and pomegranate dishes were alien to Central Asian Turkish spit-roasted techniques, but were combined as the Turks moved westward through Iran and India to Anatolia. Fish which is understandably a staple of the marine culture that is island Greece was also integrated into this Ottoman amalgam. On the other hand the pig-based cuisine of Serbia -- and Serbian converts to Islam were influential in Ottoman administration for centuries -- was barred from influencing the Ottomans because of religious prohibitions.
Thus Ottoman cooking represented a lavish synthesis of the distinct regional traditions -- central Asian, Greek, Arab, Persian, etc. which the Turks knew and integrated into their empire.
Unfortunately the break-down of the old empires has meant a certain loss of culinary cosmopolitanism, but great culinary tradiions are never completed abandoned.
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This is a spin-off from an earlier discussion on wines IN South Africa. However my question has changed to wines FROM SA available in the USA. The earlier topic description would not have gained the correct attention.
My wife brought home a superb and cheap (at least in SA) unfiltered 2000 Merlot that had won a Single Gold Medal in the 2002 Veritas Competition.
The label, Fleur du Cap, distributed by Distell, provided her with a brochure that listed in addition to a website in South Africa, agents in the UK and in White Plains, NY. Unfortunately the White Plains number is out of service -- the office was located on 3 Gannet Drive. I have e-mailed the South African headquarters to learn if the wine is exported here, but I have yet to get an answer as to their current distributer, if any exists.
I would be grateful for any information on US availability of these and other South African wines.
I have found little in Massachusetts.
Is there any NYC store that stocks them?
For more on other wines I am seeking you may wish to consult the website that listed the Veritas prize winners,
http://www.veritas.co.za/gold.html
as well as the earlier thread where these and other wines were discussed,
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Many thanks for all the good wine advice.
At the end of the day, my wife's trip in January to the wine country from Cape Town got abbreviated -- too many planes to catch -- so she did not manage all she intended. She got to only one vintner in Stellenbosch, Fleur du Cap, and selected two wines, one superb, the other forgetable.
The best wine was an unfiltered 2000 Merlot that had won a Single Gold Medal in the 2002 Veritas Competition. The wine is full-bodied, but does not overwhelm the mouth. It had a smoothy cream finish to it, that almost reminded me of a sherry without the heavy sweetness. It left a very satisfying aftertaste that all of us that evening about a month ago can still remember.
Obviously if this was only a single Gold winner, imagine what the double Golds must have been. The wine, by the way, cost less than ten dollars.
On the other hand the 2000 Pinotage was not to my taste. It is simply too thin and dull a wine to drink.
Fleur du Cap, distributed by Distell, provided her with a brochure that listed in addition to a website in South Africa, agents in the UK and in White Plains, NY. Unfortunately the White Plains number is out of service -- the office was located on 3 Gannet Drive. I have e-mailed the South African headquarters to learn if the wine is exported here, but I have yet to get an answer as to their current distributer, if any exists.
I would be grateful for any information on US availability of these and other South African wines.
I have found little in Massachusetts.
Is there any NYC store that stocks them?
Cape Cod Restaurants
in New England: Dining
Posted
The store is Hatch's. It is in a municipal parking lot next to the town hall which looks like a church. They do have very good fresh fish, smoked fish, and produce, the latter, not worth the prices they charge.