marktynernyc
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Hotel de la Soledad
Ignacio Zaragoza 90
(011-52-443) 312-18-88
I tried the Michoacan traditonal breakfasts - one morning, uchepos, which are fresh green corn tamales,
served with a cream, salsa rojo and either poblano or nopales strips and refried beans. Another morning,
corundas, which are a crumbly light tamale, also served with cream, salsa rojo, refried beans. I really liked
the corundas - the airyness in contrast to the thick beans. Along with the breakfast, marmalade and toast,
fresh fruit, hot chocolate, coffee, and juice - all for 58.00. Sitting on the edge of the courtyard, watching the
morning sun slowly pour into the courtyard, the birds chirping, the chill in the air (it get's cold in the mountains),
a blue cloudless sky - life is good here.
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Villa Montana
Patzimba 201
T (443) 314 02 31
http://www.villamontana.com.mx/
Located outside of the historic district, in the mountains but what a view - I sipped
Don Julio tequila (56.00) at sunset on the terrace overlooking the city, gazing
at those evocative unmistakable Mexican mountains, watching the lights come on.
The hotel and grounds are intimate and cozy. (Along with tequila I got a small glass of
tomato juice, limes and salt - not really sure what the proper succession is - does anyone know?)
For dinner I started with a lobster and pumpkin flower bisque touched with agave (70.00).
Thick and creamy, warm not tongue burning. There were small pieces of agave on the
bottom of the dish - which add a nice textural contrast to the silky sopa. For my entree - duck
breast in a porto sauce with bacon wrapped asparagus and risotto with squash blossoms
and wild mushrooms (170.00). Most of the dishes on the menu lean towards international
instead of Mexican (unfortunately). I had a 1/2 bottle of cab. sav. X-A Domeq (100.00) For
dessert I had a nahuatl avocado souffle (50.00) - a light green, airy, not too sweet confection.
Service was attentive - I felt a bit self conscious because I was the only person there at first -
other diners arrived, the fire place was lit, a piano player played gently.
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Las Trojes
Col. La Loma Camelinas
Juan Sebastián Bach 51
T: (52 4) 314-7344
A restaurant housed in a troje, a wood cabin typical of the region - you'll need to take a cab.
The main emphasis here is carne. Seems to be a popular suit and tie lunch place, but there
was also casual. As I was seated tortillas, salsa, limes, nopales, rojo and verde sauces,
some raw vegetables and bread were placed on the table. I had queso adobera with a chipotle
sauce (49.00), crema cilantro (36.00) and filet poblano (99.00). The queso adobera (semi
firm cheese in a chipotle sauce) came with warm corn tortillas (no detergent smell) and
guacamole - add a spoonful of nopales, a squeeze of lime - a nice appetizer. If crema cilantro
sounds a bit overwhelmingly cilantro-ey, it wasn't. Does anyone else find similar notes between
cilantro and tomatillos because I thought i detected some tomatillos also? Garnished with toasted
sesame seeds and croutons - this was a smile producing sopa. I order the filet poblano rare -
and it came rare - I should have ordered it medium rare. It was a thin filtet folded over with the poblano
strips inside, smothered under a very light cheese sauce, a sprinkling of onion. The dish was a bit
muddied for my taste. For dessert, postre flan de cajeto and espresso - which was okay.
For wine - I had a half bottle of cabernet sav X-A Domeq (110.00)
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Here's La Azotea's menu:
ENTREES
Breaded pumpkin flower stuffed with requesón in poblano chilli sauce
Breaded Panela Cheeses with herb garland
Platter of cold meats and assorted cheeses
Crushed shrimp in chipotle chilli sauce on fried corn tortilla
Chicken "Sopes"
Mushrooms with shrimp in garlic sauté
Fried flour tortillas stuffed with requesón in avocado sauce
Dried beef, northern style
Salmon Carpaccio
Beef tenderloin Carpaccio
Asturian cheese breaded with puff pastry
CHILES
Dried poblano chilli stuffed with requesón and shrimp in coriander sauce
Poblano Chilli stuffed with cheese covered in puff pastry and tomato sauce
SALADS
Monastery - Fine lettuces with jicama and mango
Convent - Watercress, salad with apple, bacon and sesame
Caesar salad
Friar - Fine lettuces with avocado, tomato, onion , cucumber and green pepper
Monk - Spinach salad, with camembert cheese and prosciutto ham
Dressings: Vinaigrette French , Honey or Balsámic
SOUPS
"Mestiza" Soup with mushrooms, pumpkin flowers and corn
Chicken broth "Tlalpeño" with vegetables and chipotle
CREMES
Corn cream
Pumpkin flowers and light poblano chilli cream
Combination of fine cheeses cream
"Chicharron "cream
PASTA
Fettuccini with smoked salmon
Carbonara Spaghetti
POULTRY
Chicken breast stuffed with pumpkin flower and cheese in poblano sauce
Breaded chicken breast stuffed with prosciuto ham and cheese in mustard sauce
Chicken breast with mexican "mole" sauce
Duck with orange or black cherry sauce
MEAT
Beef fillet stuffed with fine-grained corn in "huitlacoche" sauce
Beef fillet tournedos with cheese sauce
Beef fillet au gratin in chipotle sauce
Beef skirt steak accompanied with guacamole, beans and french onions
Mexican style beef fillet steak with Nopal in red chili sauce
Grilled beef tenderloin acompanied with potato and vegetables
SHRIMP
Breaded shrimp stuffed with cheese
Shrimp al´orange in a tequila- based flambée
Shrimp au coconut with orange and bilberry chutney
Jalisco shrimp
FISH
Red snapper fillet, veracruzana style
Red snapper in garlic sautee
Smoked trout navarra style
MICHOACAN SPECIALITIES
Assorted Michoacan Snacks:" Charales,dried chilli, asadera cheese"
"Corunda" soup
"Tarasca" soup
Smoked trout on macadamia nut sauce
Enchiladas Placeras
(stuffed with cheese in red chilli pepper sauce)
DESSERTS
DIFFERENT CREATION EACH DAY
Be sure to enquire about our specialty
LAS MONJAS
Thinly sliced jícama in cajeta and tequila sauce
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just got back from Morelia and Huatulco - Michoacan is a beautiful state and
Morelia, a colonial gem. Huatulco is an isolated resort destination - which is
both a good and bad thing. I'll include my activities, accomodation and misc.
information at the end of my report.
Morelia:
Hotel Juaninos - La Azotea
Av. Morelos Sur 39
T: (52 4) 312-0036
http://www.hoteljuaninos.com.mx/
Had both lunch and dinner here. Some of the dishes I had from the menu: dried poblano
stuffed with requeson and crushed shrimp in a coriander sauce (60.00), pumkin flower and
light poblano chili cream sopa (48.00), assorted Michoacan snacks: adobera (type of Panela
cheese)- charales (small fish) - chile ancho with cream (68.00), smoked trout on a macadamian
nut sauce (100.00), sopa tarasca (45.00), poblano stuffed with chese covered in puff pastry
and tomato sauce (70.00), jicama in a tequila caramel sauce. All the dishes were presented
stylishly. My favorite dishes - the pumkin flower and light poblano soup - a ying and yang of
light yello and light green cream soup, warm without being scalding, the flavors fresh and light;
the smoked trout on the macadamia sauce, which worked very well together. I also like the
Michoacan snacks - especially the little silvery fishes, which were a little salty, briney, crispy.
I tried a 1/2 bottle of Mexican Blanc de Blanes X-A Domeq (100.00) - which I thought had good
structure. They also make a very competent margarita (46.00). The view of the cathedral is a
knockout from here - a great place the day you arrive to have your jet-lag lunch. The restaurant
is done in a mexican minimal modern tone - this is defintely a place to come for drinks as the sun sets.
"... the cathedral is lit dramatically so the pink volcanic stone pops against the inky blue night sky,
in the plaza below a clown entertains a laughing crowd, from above the cars and the crowds move
at a leisurely place, the night is not a time for rushing about..." I hate to admit but I could have almost
eaten all my meals here while in Morelia. My only quibble - the cloth which they wrapped the warm
tortillas imbued them with just a hint of detergent (can't believe I would notice something like that
but I love the smell of warm corn torilllas)
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WHS -
Here are a couple Prague sources I used:
I would defintely have dinner in the Francouzska restaurant
in the Municiple House - the food and the Art Nouveau room
are a real treat - and be sure to take a day tour of the Municple
House - the galleries upstairs contain incredible examples of Art
Nouveau/Secession craftmanship.
http://www.obecni-dum.cz/e_pruvodce.htm
David - because I enjoyed the intimate feel of the restaurant -
only 12 twelve tables.
http://www.restaurant-david.cz/index_en.php3
What I liked about Sarah Bernhardt restaurant was that they had
seasonal specials, and the room is very elegant - located next to
the Municple House:
http://www.hotel-pariz.cz/restaurant_en.html
Another place I tried for lunch and would defintely go back for dinner:
http://www.upetrskeveze.cz/english.htm
I had wanted to try this place but was closed due to the floods -
Only other suggestion - drink the local wines - the whites were very
enjoyable, the reds overall were okay (had a great one at
Upetrskeveze) - and the Bohemian sekt (sparkling wine/
champagne/cava) was quite competent and good.
I wanna go back Prague....
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HOTELS:
Sultanahmet Sarayi
Torun Sok, No. 19, Sultanahmet
www.sultanahmetpalace.com
This boutique hotel is located next to (right behind) the Blue Mosque. It has a garden
with fruit trees and fountain, a restaurant and a restaurant with a view of the Marmara Sea.
I had made reservations ($100 US for 6 nights, one additional night free) months in
advance asking for a room with a view of the Blue Mosque only to be told right before I
left NYC that I was being upgrade to a deluxe room with a partial view of the Marmara Sea.
(After the ïroom with a view of a wall' fiasco at the Palace Hotel in Hvar I immediately wrote
back the hotel asking for further explanation) The room looked over a parking lot and if I leaned
out the window I had a full view of the Marmara Sea - to say the least I was not happy, especially
being that I was celebrating my 40th. I was told they would move me but couldn't until Monday
being that the hotel was fully booked. I'm guessing they were able to charge someone else
more for the room they had promised me. The room was nicely furnished - the bathroom is a
smaller version of a hamam - an interesting and atmospheric touch. Complimentary fruit basket
and bottle of wine. Of course I wasn't able to fully unpack and get settled. In retrospect a room with
a view of the Blue Mosque was superfluous because each morning as I left the hotel the Blue
Mosque was right in front of me - which really makes this a wonderful location. I was offered any
room and decided a room with a view of the Marmara Sea and terrace would be preferred. They moved
my belongings on Monday while I was doing the Bosphorus ferry. The room was great but the
bathroom/hamam was tiny. I was able to sit on the terrace in the morning and watch the oil tankers
and cruise ships enter/leave the Bosphorus. And the sun rises were beautiful - the misty blue grey
Bosphorus, the sea gulls cries. The staff was at times very helpful but most of the time seemed coolly
indifferent unlike the staff at the Four Seasons where my friends were staying (of course, if I was paying
what they were paying.....) But such things as only having one flower vase available seemed to reflect a
lack of attention to detail or foresight. I wanted to like this hotel but...it's in a great location and having a
terrace overlooking the Marmara Sea was really nice but still.... if you do stay here request one of the
following 8 rooms: private balcony+view of Marmara sea, deluxe: 111, 110, 109; view of Blue Mosque:
deluxe: 101, 120, 119; standard: 201, 216. Email the hotel directly for a quote on rates. (One other
incident which I'm hesitant to discuss but think important - after clubbing one night and meeting someone,
whom I invited back to the hotel - I was told at the desk I could not have overnight guests - not sure if
it would have been different if my friend had been female - I explained to the desk clerk that the general
manager could speak with me tomorrow morning but my friend and I were going to sleep - I have never
encountered such a policy at any of the hotels I have stayed at - in defense of the hotel they may have
been concerned for my safety and their hotel guests, I don't know - and no, the hotel manager did
not speak with me the next day)
Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul
Tevkifhane Sok. No. 1, Sultanahmet
My friends stayed here (which was short distance from my hotel) and it is no wonder why
this hotel has received so many awards. The service and attention to detail is impeccable. The
staff is attentive and professional - cordial without being stiff or overly sweet. My friends had a suite
with 1 1/2 baths and a view of the interior garden. On numerous occassions they returned to their
room to find complimentary bottles of wines, petite fours, their clothes folded, etc, etc Large umbrellas
available at the front in case of rain show the thoughtfulness this hotel has for their guests. Of course
paying what my friends were paying - one should expect such service. I'm glad my friends decided
to stay at the Four Seasons.
Regarding hotel location - I'm glad I chose to stay in the Sultanahmet area for my first visit to Istanbul -
everything is with in walking distance. I picked up a couple brochures of other hotels in the area and
will post. I had read some posts recommending staying in Taksim, Beyoglu or up on the Bosphorus.
I do wish I had stayed a few days at a hotel somewhere in one of the "villages" along the Bosphorus -
just to relax and kick back.
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Sorry for posting so sporadically - will try to finish up this week.....
Turkish Shave
I purposely did not shave for a week because I had read numerous postings
about getting a Turkish shave. On the day of my arrival I went to a barber near
the Cemberlitas baths, Kuafor Salonu. I was treated to a double shave with a
straight razor, my nose hairs and ear hairs trimmed (ear hairs then singed),
eyebrows trimmed, a shoulder and upper back massage, my neck adjusted
and various creams and lotions applied to my face - all for 5.000.000 TL.
To say the least - my shaving cream and razors remained in my toiletry bag
the entire trip. It was a great way to start off each morning.
Cemberlitas baths
http://www.cemberlitashamami.com.tr
A bath and massage cost 25.000.000 TL. A turkish friend here in NYC told
me to tell the massage attendant - 'tallah'. On my first visit - my attendant
proceeded to scrub me down like Karen Silkwood and turn me into a pretzel -
cracking my back, my neck. On my third visit - an older man was my massage
attendant. I wasn't really expecting a pummeling as the previous two visits -
however the attendant motioned for me to lay on my stomach on the marble slab,
stepped up and onto my back and proceeded to shimmy back and forth along
my spine until I capitulated. I would also recommend going early - I had the
bath to myself one morning - a majority of the attendants were asleep, the
dripping water echoed within the bath - there was something wonderfully
peaceful staring up at the dome in solitude. The best method for tipping seems
to be at the end of the session after you have dressed - just find your massage
attendant as you leave, most likely he'll find you. My belongings were securely
locked in my changing room - no problems at all. Just around the corner you
can get freshly squeezed orange juice for 1.500.000 TL.
The Bosphorus ferry
The ferry leaves at 10:35 am - get there around 10 to buy your ticket.
Round trip is 6.600.000, one way is 3.300.000. You may be approached
by people trying to steer you towards their boats - just ignore them and
find Pier 3. To view the European side first, I recommend the back of the
boat on the left hand side (when facing the bow of the ship). If you sit in
the same place you'll see the Asian side on your return. As we waited to
leave we watched numerous ships and ferries go by. i was amazed at
how the ferries docked so quickly and so closely to each other. The Golden
Horn and the Bosphorus look amazingly clean (compared to the Hudson
and East rivers here in NYC) - I even saw huge jelly fish. I was surprised
at how fast the ferry goes. Also - the ferry docks for about 2 minutes at
each ferry stop - so if you're getting off at Beskitas, don't dwaddle because
they won't wait. It was nice to see how the city peeled away to the green
shores of the Bosphorus. The Bosphorus is huge. The 10:35 ferry stops at
Andalou Kavagi around noon and doesn't leave until 3 pm. We walked up
to the Genose Castle (actually Byzantine) - from there you can see the Black
Sea and the numerous ships waiting to enter the Bosphorus. There are
numerous restaurants in Kavagoi Andalou - see restaurant review. Once
again - the trip back was swift. I can see why this is such a popular weekend
activity. There are mini boats at the ferry stops that will take you to
the opposite shore - 1.000.000 TL.
Dolmabache
Tourists pay 10.000.000, Turkishs pay 4.000.000. My Turkish
friend and I did the Selamlik tour. The grounds are beautiful -
the palace's interior is constructed off wood. Tours start about
every 15 minutes - or until there are 20 people. There are guides who
speak English. The Sultan really liked chandeliers - the woodwork,
is quite impressive. The Victory room is stunning. The Sultan's
hamam is included with this tour. The hamam is all alabaster - very beautiful.
The harem tour is a separate ticket. After the tour my friend and I walked
around the grounds then went to Mavi Balik for lunch.
St. Chora
The mosaics and the frescos in the church are beautiful. Admission is
10.000.000 TL. A guide approached us and offered his services - 25.000.000 TL
for about a 45 minute tour of the mosaics, frescos and history of the church - very
informative. The restaurant, Asitane, is located right next to St. Chora.
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Here are the menus for Tugra - while the quality and the service was very good, something about the room just didn't work for me. Maybe it would be better during the day when you can really see the Bosphorus and the sunlight floods the enormus rooms.
DEGUSTATION MENU
Sea bass, dorado and grouper cold stew prepared with Ottoman
style garnishes, Served with carrots, potato and pickled onions
Ottoman chicken soup,
Seasoned with plain yoghurt and leek
Beef mixed with pistachios and raisins “Börek”,
Served with cucumber and yoghurt sauce
Pan-fried “lor” cheese
Sauteed with black olives and char-coaled red bell pepper
Ottoman style braised lamb with dried plum and apricot,
Served with pilaf rice
“sakiye” pudding
Served with lime sorbet and sour cherry sauce
Tea, coffee and Petit four
89m TL
MODERN TURKISH CUISINE
STARTERS
Grilled artichoke
Mixed with garden arugula and blackened shrimp,
Served with gingered extra virgin olive oil and lemon sauce
21m TL
Ottoman style “Börek” plate
With “Vertika”, puff and “Su Börek”
19m TL
Oven-baked anchovy with rice pilaf served with sorrel salad
22m TL
Char-coaled eggplant
With vegetable confit, hummus and crispy pita bread
17m TL
Cold mezzes “Tugra” style
20m TL
Hot mezzes “Tugra” style
21m TL
Chef’s trio of seasonal vegetables cooked in olive oil
16m TL
MAIN COURSES
Ancient “Tire” style grilled meatballs
With “Harise-Ke_kek” wheat & meat purée,
char-coaled tomato and green pepper
34m TL
Traditional “Tike” kebab,
With cracked wheat pilaf and grilled vegetable
36m TL
Oven-cooked fillet of sole in a cream mussel sauce
With sauteéd Anatolian herbs and saffron pilaf rice
33m TL
“Çentik” kebab
Grilled loin of lamb, meatballs and chicken breast pieces
On crispy matchstick potatoes
With yoghurt and spicy chili butter sauce
35m TL
Blue fish cooked on char-coal
With stewed potatoes, red onion relish and rocket leaves
38m TL
CLASSIC OTTOMAN CUISINE
STARTERS
Chickpea and wheat “Toyga” soup
17m TL
Shrimp and “Teke” octopus salad with lemon sauce
22m TL
Spinach and cheese “Piruhi Börek”
With oven-baked tomato sauce, drained yoghurt and chili butter sauce
19m TL
Grilled calamari,
Served with spices, marinated “Kalamata” olives and tomatoes
22m TL
Ottoman style vine leaves embedded with air-dried beef
Served with tomato sauce
19m TL
MAIN COURSES
Grilled loin of lamb with rosemary,
Served with eggplant purée, minted onion salad and
“Firik” style smoked cracked wheat pilaf
36m TL
Baked breast of chicken “Topkapi” stuffed with oriental rice pilaf,
Spinach “Timbale” and cream saffron sauce
34m TL
Young veal “Kapama” flavoured with mastic
Served with Swiss chard, romaine lettuce and fresh spices
39m TL
Sea bass “Külbasti”,
Served with eggplant “Dizme”, baby potatoes and a red pepper relish
39m TL
Meat stuffed air dried eggplant and red bell pepper
With sour pomegranate sauce
27m TL
DESSERTS
Assorted Turkish cheese plate with traditional garnishes
24m TL
“Elmasiye” strawberry jelly,
Served with crispy cinnamon “Baklava” dough,
thick cream and mastic ice-cream
Crispy pumpkin confit “Nouvelle”
Served with clotted cream ice-cream
TuGra style semolina halva “Nouvelle”
Served with cinnamon ice-cream
A Trio of Turkish desserts:
Oven-browned rice pudding with mastic,
Palace style “Baklava” and “Elmasiye” strawberry jelly
Palace style light pudding,
Served with fresh strawberries and rose water
“Mara_” style selection of Turkish ice creams
Flavoured with mastic, black mulberry and chocolate
17m TL per item
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Instead of doing a day-by-day, step-by-step report
I'm just going to touch upon some highlights of my Istanbul trip:
Asitane menu highlights:
"...Ottoman Heritage - Delicacies from the Palace
Ottoman cuisine is a buried treasure. The heritage of a great
empire which lasted for 700 years. A synthesis of Central Asian,
Anatolian , and European flavors. Deeply influenced by the culinary
cultures of the Middle East, North Africa, Russia, and Greece. Unfortunately
very few recipes from this rich cuisine survived due to a tradition which
demanded that cooks guilds keep their recipes and cooking techniques secret.
Here at Asitane, we have made it our mission to reintroduce Ottoman
cooking to the world. Since 1990, a dedicated staff have hunted down
lost tastes with academic zeal. We consulted a variety of sources, including
the budget ledgers of the three main palace kitchens – Topkapi, Edirne and
Dolmabahçe- and the memoirs of foreign diplomats or visitors to try and
recreate authentic Ottoman cuisine..."
White Bean Paste
White beans mashed with cinnamon and lemon juice, served with fresh herbs.
7.000.000 TL
Special Humus
Ground chickpeas with lemon juice, cinnamon,black currants and pine nuts.
7.000.000 TL
Vine leaves stuffed with a blend of sour cherries, rice, onions and pine nuts,
cooked lightly in olive oil. Seasoned with black pepper and cinnamon.
8.000.000 TL
Grilled Circassian Cheese with Oyster Mushrooms.
12.000.000 TL
Aubergine with Cheese
Fried aubergine slices with “Gönen” cottage cheese.
8.000.000 TL
Almond Soup
A light almond broth flavoured with grated coconut.
6.000.000 TL
Fresh Fish en Papillote
Choice fillet of sea bass or umbrina wrapped in
parchment and slow baked.
24.000.000 TL
Asitane Wrap
Baked aubergines mixed with grilled mince meat, tomatoes, and
green peppers, wrapped in a sheet of pasta and served with peppermint sauce.
14.000.000 TL
Date Shaped Meat Kebab
Mince meat of lambs seasoned with cinnamon, cardamom, anise and spearmint.
14.000.000 TL
Stuffed Melon
Cored melon stuffed with mincemeat, rice, herbs, almonds, currants
and pistachio nuts and baked.
16.000.000 TL
Quail with Aubergine
Baked and boned quail stuffed in a whole aubergin, baked
and served with a sweet basil sauce.
20.000.000 TL
Mutanjene
Diced lamb with shallots, dried apricot, red raisins,vinegar, honey
and almonds baked slowly in an earthenware casserole known as "guvech".
16.000.000 TL
Finger-shaped pastries in heavy grape syrup.
6.000.000 TL
Morello Cherry Sweet
Toasted bread soaked with morello cherry syrup and topped with cream.
6.000.000 TL
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Heard back from the Black Rooster - unfortunately they won't be open until December.
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Balikci Sabahattin (The Fisherman)
Cankurtaran, Sultanahmet
http://www.armadahotel.com.tr/pg_en/armada.asp?ID=36
Located in the Sultanahamet, down some alleyways and stairs,
next to the Armada Hotel - my friends and I sat outside under a large
umbrella (which protected later from a light sprinkle), the smell of
grilled fish wafting by. We started with a bottle of raki, an assortment
of cold and hot mezzes (the calamari was crisp, feather light, firm not
chewy or doughy). The cold mezes were delicate, restrained - an
obvious sure hand seasoning each dish. Just point to what looks
good and dive in. We each order grilled fish - blue fish, red mullet
and bonito - all very flavorful, but just a tad dry - and a couple bottles
of Turkish white, Dessert consisted of stuffed figs and some type of
quince dessert. The setting is relaxing - the food is well prepared.
The total bill came to almost 200 million (about $120) but for three
people and the quality, not to mention in the Sultanahamet area -
quite reasonable.
Zeyrekhane
Sinaga Mahallesi Ibadethane Arkasi Sok. No 10, Zeyrek-Fatih
I waited here due to rain as my guide went for his car. Located
in front the Byztanine church, Pantokrator Monestary, in the Fatih
area - this restaurant has a great view of the Golden Horn, and the
Galata Tower. I ordered a small meze platter - which was pleasant.
But what was really great was the complimentary dish of pickles - these
were so good. This restaurant also has a huge terrace - which I'm sure
in the spring and summer is great.
Pandeli
Located in the Spice Market on the second floor - the food here was fine.
My guide and I order some smoked aubergine - I had kofte, he boiled lamb.
Everything was fine - we did catch the restaurant near the end of lunch which
may explain why certain mezzes weren't available. While I wouldn't say this
was a must do - the location is convenient and the turquoise tiled room
makes for a pleasant setting.
Boncuk
Balikpazan Nevizade Sok., No. 19, Beyoglu
http://www.nevizademeyhaneleri.com/boncuk
Located on Nevizade - if you have trouble locating this street just ask. We went on
Friday night - the whole area was jam packed with people - real riotous scene - quite
fun and light hearty. Yes, you will be approached by numerous restaurants asking
you to dine at their establishment. I can't tell you about the quality of the other places.
There is seating outside at Boncuk but I don't believe they take reservations - just get
there early on a friday or Saturday night. We ordered a flurry of mezzes, salad
(my friends thought the dressing was a bit too vinegary but the produce was very
good) and raki. The calamari here was doughy and chewy. Mezes dish prices
ranged from 2.000.000 to 6.000.000. For the life of me - I can't remember if we
had main dishes - I just remember us devouring the mezzes, mainly because we
had been with guides all day and were ravenous.
Saray
Istikial Caddesi, No. 102-104, Beyoglu
http://www.saraymuhallebicisi.com
Located on Istikail Caddessi - we stopped off here for dessert - lured in by
the glistening variations of baklava in the window. I ordered the pudding
made with shredded chicken breast - which had similar flavors to rice pudding
but a unusual (but not negative) texture,. My friends baklava variations failed
to impress - but there are numerous dessert places on Istikal Caddessi.
Istikail Caddessi was thronged with people.
Asistane
Kariye Camii Sok. N0. 18 34240, Edirnekapi
Located right next to St. Chora (must see Byzantine mosaics and frescos) -
specializes in Ottoman cuisine. A neutral toned understated dining room.
The dishes are very different than regular Turkish cuisine - some of the dishes
were from a sultan's circumcision fete. The dishes were more complex and
subtly spiced. One friend ordered smoked aubergine - which was delicious
and beautifully presented. My other friend had a hummus dish that incoporated
cinnamon and raisins - very interesting. I had stuff grape leaves with sour cherry -
the sour cherry was overwhelmed by the vinegar. We all had various lamb
dishes. I would recommend this place - and will definitely come back next time I'm in Istanbul.
Tugra, Cirgan Kimpenski Hotel
Ciragan Caddesi 32, Besiktas
This hotel is huge - does not have the intimate scale that the Four Seasons
has but it was a palace in it former life. Situated on the bosphorus - -live music playing.
My friends and I did the tasting menu (89.000.000 TL) with dishes such as pan-fried “lor” cheese
sauteed with black olives and char-coaled red bell pepper; Ottoman style braised lamb with
dried plum and apricot, served with pilaf rice ; sea bass, dorado and grouper cold stew
prepared with Ottoman style garnishes The quality of the meal was very
good - the service was attentive yet something about the room didn't make this an
astonishing evening. I'm not sure - maybe it was where our table was located or the
enormity of the room. Jacket was required yet numerous people arrived casually dressed -
which may have detracted from the surroundings. The Turkish Merlot we had was fantastic.
Make sure to walk around the grounds. I believe there is also a Sunday brunch outside on the terrace
Hali
Istiklal Caddesi, No. 211, Beyoglu
This was probably the only meal that was average - we made the mistake
of ordering one of those large assortment platters. The gozleme were okay -
nothing special. The freshly grilled chicken kebabs were very good - but
most everything else seems to have been sitting around for a while. I would
recommend ordering individual dishes anywhere you go - even though
there are numerous restaurants that have trays of all-ready prepared food.
Kor Agop
Ordekli Bakkal Sok. No 7, Kumkapi
I had read negative reviews about the Kumkapi area - tourists being
ripped off. However - I found an article by an food writer who lives in Istanbul -
who recommended this meyhane. The taxi dropped us off at the pedestrian
mall -and we were prodded to eat at various restaurants ("I have 5 children to feed,
please eat at my restaurant") We found Kor Agop but there was only one
other table filled - I was bit concerned as we sat down - especially when the
small band began to play a bit too loudly. We ordered various mezes, salad,
fish and two bottles of white Turkish wine. The fish was quite good - moist and flavorful.
I think the total bill only came to 71.000.000 TL (fish was actually more expensive
in other places on the Bosphorus) The band of course serenaded our table for a tip -
but hey, go with the flow and have fun - I imagine this area is packed friday and Saturday.
Can't comment on any of the other places here. One note - my hotel did recommend
taking a taxi to this area - that the surrounding area can be unsafe.
Yedigul
Iskele Meydani No. 4, Anadolukavagi
This restaurant is located in Andalu Kavagi - the last ferry stop on the Bosphorus
before returning to Istanbul. After walking up to the Genoese castle we stopped
here for lunch and sat on the second floor which has a nice view of village - and
it's right near the ferry stop. We order a assortment of mezes - the white bean and
sardines were great - some raki and turkish white . For our main entree we all ordered
jumbo shrimp. These were horrible - mushy and an ammonia smell - we should have
sent them back ( next restaurant - no doubt) The manager had recommended lufte -
the seasonal fish at the time. This meal was more expensive than Kor Agop in Kumkapi -
maybe because they have a monopoly on visitors. There are other numerous restaurants in the village.
Seasons Restaurant, Four Seasons Hotel, Sultanhament
Tevkifhane Sok. No. 1, Sultanahmet
http://www.fourseasons.com/istanbul/dining.../dining_49.html
My friends were leaving for Munich in the morning so we decided to have dinner at
the Four Season. The food is very well prepared - the room is pleasant. Modern updated
turkish dishes and international dishes are offered. The Sunday brunch ($30 US) is a
popular scene for the well to do Istanbulites.
Develi Samatya
Gumusyuzuk Sok. No. 7, Samatya
Reviews had praised this specific location for their kebaps. The restaurant also has
views of the marmara Sea. Had lunch here - everything was delicious - the "raw" kofte,
the lamucun, the pistachio kebabs, the walnut dessert - everything. Unfortunately the
upper floors and terrace weren't open for lunch so we only had a partial view of the sea.
The room is very nicely decorated in maroons and cream whites. The only odd thing was
they don't serve alcohol/wine until the evening (possibly 9 pm - might have been due to
Ramazan - not sure) Great little neighborhood - small children playing, the food vendors
splashing their produce. I would recommend this specific location highly.
5th Floor
Soganci Sok. 7, Cihangir
A bit hard to find but the view is top notch. A very hip vibe and upscale crowd.
Ordered a bottle of Turkish sparkling wine - Tradokya - which was crisp, dry and
very enjoyable. Watching the mini boats and traffic from this perch was relaxing
and fun. My friend and I ordered cocktails and raki for the next few hours. The
restaurant serves more international food - I ordered a tomato/turkish white cheese
salad and my friend order chicken fingers with potatoes - which were both fine and
took the edge off all the alcohol. The terrace was closed for the season - but if the
view from the bar is any indication, it must be great.
Mavi Balik (Blue Fish)
Muallim Naci Caddesi, No. 64/2, Kurucesme
Great place to have lunch after touring the Dolmabache. A panoramic view of
the Bosphorus and Bosphorus Bridge. The grilled calamari and fish were very good.
Terrace is open for the summer - if you're looking for a place to have diner during sunset,
I would recommend this place. The Turkish white, Ozel Kav, was prefect with the fish.
Former name was Mavi Yesil (Blue Green)
Le Pecheur
Yenikoy Caddesi, No. 80, Tarabya
http://www.lepecheurrestaurant.com
Located in Tarabya - the green blue Bosphorus literally wraps around the main dining room.
A large display of fish and a large fish tank greets you at the entrance. We started off with
stuffed mussels, smoked salmon, cheese and melon, octopus salad. some other mezes and a
bottle of raki. The freshly baked Ramazan bread was still warm, chewy and delicious.
For fish, my friend ordered lufte and I ordered sea bass.Both fish grilled perfectly - the
flesh was moist and infused with the scent of the grill - really quite good. The temperature
had dropped considerably and the mist that developed looked like ghosts dancing on the water.
A cab back from Tarabya to the sultanhamet area cost 20.000.000.
Misc:
My friends and I were there for the beginning of Ramazan. Small Ottoman like houses, selling
various foods, were built between the Blue Mosque and the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts.
Salep (so wonderfully satisfying on a chilly evening), profiterols, gozleme, baklava, baked
potatoes, etc etc, etc were avilable and incredibly inexpensive - a festive fun scene.
My Turkish friend and I went to Camlica, the highest point in Istanbul, located on the Asian side - take
a ferry to Uskudar then a cab to "big" Camlica, the view of the Bosphorus Bridge and the lower Bosphorus
is great. "Small" Camlic's views are not as good. There were restaurants there but did not try being that
we had dinner reservations in Tarabya.
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Not sure why the link for Zlata Studna doesn't work - here's the correct one. Still waiting to hear from the Black Rooster id they have opened in their new location. Will post when they do.
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Croatian currency - kuna ($1 US = 6.32 kn)
check out this currency conversion website:
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misc. price list:
8.50 kn - 1 liter of mineral water
8 kn - 2 scoops of gelatto / ice cream
300 kn - scooter rental for 4 to 12 hrs
6 kn - single espresso
15 kn - 1/2 kilo of dried figs
10 kn - admission to the fortress
55 kn - roll o f 100 ASA slide film (ow!)
40 kn - a bottle of homemade rekija
40 kn - boat taxi to Palminzana
150 kn - boat excursion to Bol, includes lunch
250 kn - boat excursion to the Blue and Green Caves and Vis
2 - 3 kn - postcard
12 kn - glass of Prosec
300 kn - 1st class whole grilled fish
500 kn - grill 1 kilo lobster
40 kn - 1 liter of house wine
100 - 210 kn - for bottle of wine ordered in restaurant
22 kn - fast catamaran from Hvar to Split (a little over 1 hr)
33 kn - slow ferry from Split to Hvar
30 kn - Croatia Airline bus from Split Airport to Town Terminal
5 kn - to store luggage for 2 hrs while in Split
30 kn - girice ( small fried fish)
50 - 70 kn - Dalmatian ham
60 kn - risotto "frutti de mare"
120 kn - spaghetti with lobster
Any questions, please feel free to ask.......
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Day 7
Woke early to see if the Blue Grotto was a go - unfortunately partly cloudy
skies cancelled the excursion. I was able to appraise what excusrion the
taxi boats were offering that day and decide to go to Piscena (50 kn), which
I read had interesting caves also. Had espresso at one one of the cafes on
the square then went to the farmers market and bought some home-made wine in
a plastic bottle and some dried figs. The boat left at 10:30 and took about
30 minutes to get to the caves - Michael dropped anchor and we passengers
swam around the caves for about 30 minutes. We then went to Piscena, which
is a smooth pebbled cove tucked in between some mountains. Everyone spread
out a polite distance from each other. At first the group of British girls
kept talking and talking but as the sun got higher in the sky, the clouds
disappated and with the repetive surge of the sea - the tranquility of the place
settled down upon everyone. Michael also has a restaurant at the cove -
eating at is optional and additonal money. I walked up to see him stoking
the grill with wood - he told me lunch would be ready in a few hours.
Around 1 Michael came down to the beach with complimentry glasses of Prosec.
We talked about Prosec and I was surprised to learn that there is a wide
range of Prosec - even a white one. Between the home made wine and figs, going
for swims, napping underneath a warm sun, watching sailboats and yatchs go
by, the sound of crickets, the blue green clear cool water - I realized that
for the past 6 days I had been runnning around and had not really kicked
backed - this was the perfect last day for me (I'll do the Blue Grotto next year).
Around 3 I went up for lunch - ham, a whole grilled fish (180 kn) and the
house white. Adding tip the total came to 250 kn - a wondeful meal and
setting. We left the cove at 5. During the summer there is a music program
with students practicing in the gallery in front of the Palace Hotel -
tonight they were giving a concert( 30 kn) to benefit the Arsenal. All week
as I had been leaving the hotel I would hear flautists practicing - I
attended their performance. Afterwards I had another dreamy meal outside
Macondo - the lobster spaghetti contained a tail and one claw - the meat was
so sweet and tender, 2nd class fish with roasted vegetables, house white and
prosec for dessert . (Milan had informed me that in Croatia they have 1st
class fish, 2nd class fish and 3rd class fish all priced accordingly, as are
scooters) The walkway had emptied out and I was alone - sitting underneath
lamps swaying in the breeze, Ella Fitzgerald in the background.
Departure
8 am - one last walk along the harbour and an espresso at one of the outdoor
cafes. The catamaran ferry left at 9 am and I arrived back in Split in1
hour. The Croatian Airline bus arrives at the terminal 1 1/2 hours before
their departing flight to take you to the airport (30 kn). The flight home
was uneventful - Lufthansa is a nice airline - Franfurt looks to be a great
jump off point. Got home around 9:30 pm but unfortunately the kennel was
already closed - coming home to an empty apartment made me a bit meloncholy.
Picked up my dog next morning and got back to the work routine. Next
destination: Istanbul.
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Day 4
Woke to intermittent rain. Walked over to the Franciscan Monastery and got
caught there for about 2 hours due to heavy downpour. It was kinda pleasant
sitting in the cloistered courtyard listening to the rain splatter on the
white marble - the church bells ringing on the hour. The rain finally eased
and I went and had lunch at Palaca Paladini - spaghetti frutti de mare,
grilled squid and the house white. Afterwards walked around exploring and
photographing from various vantage points. Coming back into town along the
harbor edge I noticed the clouds were breaking up and the setting sun light
was washing over the the town. I stopped at The Two Fisherman - which is
located near the Hotel Adriatic on the harbor - grab a table, ordered some
house white, local cheese and dalmation ham and watched the sun light shift
from golden yellow to pink, as evening settle over the town and harbor.
Across the harbor the moon was rising behind the hill of houses, beneath the
silhouetted royal palm trees people walk along the harbor's edge,
sailboats mooring lines creaked and groaned while their masts sway to and fro,
wisps of clouds from today's storm obscure the moon. Finally the full moon
made her appearance. The city dried from the breezes and the sky cleared.
Met Alan from Paris - had drinks along the harbor's edge and walked around
the town soaking in the vibe.
Day 5
Had arrange a boat excursion (150 kn, lunch included) with Atlas Tours to Bol
on the island of Brac. Cruise started at 9 am and took about 2 1/2 hours to
get there. Lunch was included but I wanted to get off the boat and explore
Bol before heading off to the Golden Horn. Bol doesn't have a lot of
ambience - the harbor is charming. Had lunch at Gust - excellent. Lobster
salad, salted sardines, green spaghetti frutti de mare and the house white.
Instead of taking a water taxi from Bol to the Godlen Horn I strongly
recommend walking there. The walk goes along the coast, under pine trees and
takes about 25 minutes at a leisurely pace. The Golden Horn is a smooth
peeble beach which juts out to point - one one side of the Horn wind
surfers, jet skies and boat swarm like humming birds. The setting is sublime
- the mountains lord over the Horn, blue clear water on your left and right,
the sound of the waves on the pebbles, a gentle breeze. I wish I had a
full day here - I would recommend spending 2 nights here - 3 hours was not
enough. The boat ride back was a tad long. There is a boat taxi from Bol to
Jelsa but not sure of the times. Had a small dinner at Farina - the huge
patio is underneath a huge canopy of grape vines with clusters of grapes
within arms reach. Restaurant seem to cater more to larger groups and
families. Had a hvar plate (ham, pag cheese, sardines and sea food salad)
and carpet shells (briny clams) Met Milan, an illustrator I work with, who
is now living in Hvar with his wife , Kiko, for drinks. Sitting in the
front of the cathedral - kids playing soccer, outdoor cafes buzzing, the
square leading my eyes to the boats at the opposite end, the church bells
ringing - why can't America have public spaces like this? After drinks went
to bed early.
Day 6 -
Woke up early to clear blue skies - however due to winds the Blue Grotto
tours had been moved to the next day - decided to rent a scooter again and
go to Jelsa, Verboska and the south side of the island. Early morning
light sparkles off the water - the sweeping views of the surrounding islands
was dreamy and made me constantly pull over to take it all in. Headed to
Jelsa - another sleepy town which is wonderful to just walk around and get
lost in - the gentle breezes rustle the pomegranite trees which hung over
the walls. Decided to go to Zatvala - which is on the south side of the
island. To get to this town you must drive through a very long, dark
one-car width tunnel - and the control light was not working. To say the
least it was a bit unnerving and then once out of the tunnel you must do
numerous tight switch backs. Going down wasn't so hard but coming back up
concerned me. Found a smooth peebled beach - the island Scredo opposite.
Laid out and swam for a few hours then had lunch at Skalinada - gnocci with
gorgonzola, fresh caught fish fillet with potatos and zuchinni and the house
white. I saw the chef buying this huge fish for a family of 6 - he had a few
extra fillets left over. It was so fresh and all for 150 kn, tip included.
Had promised Milan and Kiko I woud stop by their house in Verbanja - I found
the town but not their house. After 45 minutes of driving around -
shouting "MILAN! KIKO!" - I took off for Verbroska because I wanted another
swim. A small town with bridges spanning a central canal which opens to a
harbor. Pulled off numerous times to take a swim - around 5 pm iI realized
that sunset from the Fortress should be perfect. I raced back to Hvar - the
sun slowly setting behind the mountains and the temperature getting cooler.
The belvederes along the way kept making me stop, pull out my camera and my
video cam. I dropped the bike off around 6:30 and raced up the mountain to
the Fortress to watch sunset. Clouds of purples and oranges, slate blue
storm clouds, rain and lightning on the horizon, purple islands - the sunset
was framed by two thunderstorms on the horizon with lightening. Had dinner
at Memego again - an Italian couple from Venice was sat at the same table.
Through broken English and Italian we talked and laughed - they insisted I
let them know when I visit Venice so they can show me around. They
mentioned that this was the 7th time to Croatia and maybe, just maybe,
they liked Sardenia a bit more.
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Day 2 -
Caught a boat taxi to Palminzana (40 kn round trip - 30 minute ride), one of the islands
of the Otok Pakelini. The pebbled beach is small and has three restaurants fronting it.
I walked out along one side of the cove - found a spot and caught some sun.
Had lunch a Zori - sitting under pine trees, the gentle swells surging right
below me, the hiss of the water on smooth pebbles. Later on a large group of
teenage Italian boys and girls took over the beach - laughing, shouting,
giggeling - it was beautiful watching them play ( I almost felt a bit
lascivious watching). The boys showing off, jumping off each other's
shoulders - the girls posing on the small stone docks. A light rain in the
afternoon but the taxi arrived 5 minutes early. Had dinner at Menego and
once again, just walked around town - up and down stairs, a drink along the
harbor. An Irish and Australian couple invited me to join them at their
table for drinks - afterwards we went to Carpe Diem. Lots of attractive men
and women and a cool vibe - very restrained considering the amount of
drinking going on. The owners of the yatchs and sailboats moored along the
harbor watched the love parade from the comfort of their boats. Later my
new friends and I went for an au natural late night swim under a waxing
moon.
Day 3
Rented a scooter and headed off to Stari Grad. Drove through burned swaths
of forest and green swaths of forest. Strange burned landscape with stone
piled walls. Stari Grad is very quiet and I could see living here - Hvar is very
lively in comaprison. There were moments where I would take a breath and I
felt my whole being relax - spread out a bit. The town stretches along both
sides of a long harbor - one can see the mountains of neighboring islands and
the coast in the distance. Had lunch a Juro Podrum - ham, spaghetti with lobster (65 kn),
girice and house white wine. The spaghetti had lobster, capers, tomatoes, garlic. Small
restaurant - 20 people max. The owner: "...may, june, september and october
are the best months....july and august are too busy..." Walked along the
harbor to the Hotel Levanda and swam - the misty clouds pouring over the
green mountains. Slowly made my way back to Hvar - signage is very easy to
understand. Had dinner at Macondo - get a table outside - the lamps shades
swaying in the breeze, the soft light on the tan white stones, people
passing by. Had the chef's recommendations - combo platter of fish pate,
octopus salad and anchovies; risotto fruta de mare, 1st class fish fillet
with grilled vegetables. Ordered a bottle of white - Bodanjusa. Desert -
watermelon and then a couple glasses of Prosec - deep ruby red not the brown
oloroso type served at the bars. During dinner I heard thunder in the
distance. The midnight blue sky changing to periwinkle then back. Near the
end of my meal the heavens opened and released a torrent of rain - couples
rain soaked but laughing, instant waterfalls created by the numerous stairs.
It hadn't rained for 9 months - they needed it plus it gave me an
opportunity to see the town in a different light.
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Departure / Arrival :
Flew NYC to Frankfurt to Split. Croatia Airlines has a bus (30 kn)
that takes you to the town terminal (ferries, buses, taxis all in one
place). We were late leaving Frankfurt so the 2 pm fast ferry to
Hvar was sold out by the time I got to the Jadrolinja ticket booth.
Bought at ticket for the 3:30 slow ferry and checked my luggage
(5 kn for 2 hours; near bus terminal, across from where the ferries
dock) and explored Diocletian's Palace. Split is dirty, dusty, lots of
graffiti, lots of tourist shops, ugly apartment buildings - I would
suggest spending just a few hours and then moving on. Ferry
tickets can be bought one day in advance - recommended for fast ferries.
Slow ferry took about 2 1/2 hours. Stayed at the Palace Hotel (61 euro
a night, full board; half-board 56 euro a night) - great location with
communist charm and furnishings are very minimal. Clean but very
modest. If you stay here request a double, harbor side, second or third
floor, unobstructed view. I would recommend getting half board. Another
option: the Hotel Adriatic - a good location but I would be concerned about
the bars along the harbor playing music till 4 am. Best bet - rent a soba
from a Croatian - make sure it's within town. All the church
bells in town ring at 6am (and one at 7:15 am just to make sure you're
awake) - and the ferry signals departure at 8:30 am and 8:45 am before
leaving at 9 am - be prepared to start the day early or bring ear plugs.
After showering went to the Konoba Luna for dinner, then drinks along the
harbor's edge and finally to bed.
Day 1 - After breakfast grabbed my towel, swimming goggles and went for a
swim - you can walk along the harbor either way and in time find a place to
spread out. There is mostly rock beaches (not smooth pebbled beaches)
which makes getting into the water a bit tricky. Aqua shoes are a must -
makes for getting in and out safer and protects your feet from sea urchins.
Spent the afternoon at the Fortress, which is situated high above Hvar town
- the view over the town and the surrounding islands is beautiful - the
sunlight dancing off the water, the town's tannish white stone buildings and
clay tiled roofs, ferries arriving and leaving, sailboats and yatchs
cruising around the islands, people walking along the harbor's edge, church
bells ringing. There is a restaurant in the Fortress - I had a couple
glasses of house wine sitting along the wall and just taking it all in -
letting the "island life" mind-set sink in. As I was walking back down
through the town I heard nuns singing afternoon prayers at the convent. Had
dinner at The Golden Shell - the owner is a member, as am I, of Slow Foods -
very personable man. Afterwards, meandered the narrow stone walkways around
town and had a few drinks along the harbor.
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Just got back from Hvar, Croatia - a wonderful Mediterranian
island in the Adriatic. Vineyards, olive tree groves, pomegranite
trees, fig trees, the blue green Adriatic, royal palm trees....dalmation
ham, fresh fish, mussels, clams, scampi, lobster, local wines,
local olive oil....
Luna Konoba
tel 021-741-400; mob 098-748-695
Petra Hektorovica 5
luna-hvar@st.hinet.hr
Located directly across from the Golden Shell -
the third floor is open to the sky. The food is well
prepared - had fish pate with smoked salmon,
octopus salad and spaghetti buzara - ordered bottle
of white Zlatan Otok. I was a bit jet lagged but
thought everything was quite good. Cool hip
music played discreetly in the background.
Golden Shell
Petra Hektorovica 8
mob 098-16-88-797
The owner is a member of Slow Food. Started off
with dalmation ham and goat cheese in olive oil,
for entree a steak stuffed with goat cheese and
capers with a side order of swiss chard and potatoes -
ordered a bottle of Zlatan Otok red. Everything was
well prepared The owner is very personable.
I realized half way back across the Atlantic that
dumplings on the menu probably meant ravioli (doh!).
Would have like to have gotten back here for
another meal - next year.
Zori
Palmizana, Pakleni Otoci
tel 385-021-718-231; mob 098-168-3377
zori_palmizana@hi.hinet.hr
Fresh grilled scampi, dalmation ham and a
bottle of Luviji (white). Had a couple glasses of
Prosec for dessert. Food that is somewhat challenging
to eat is always an adventure for me - am I suppose
to eat this or more importantly, am I NOT suppose
to eat that? Also getting the hands messy
(ahh the puritan ethic). Everything was satisfying
and the setting over looking the cove, underneath
pine and fig trees is very tranquil.
Menego
Vl. Dinko Kovacevic
tel. 021-742-036; mob. 091-548-5845
www.menego.hr
menegohvar@mail.inet.hr
This restaurant only serves what I would call starters
(almost tapas size portions). The care, attention and
pride of their products is obvious - almost everything I
had was superb. Marinated anchovies, Pag cheese, octopus
salad (with chick peas mixed in adding a nice contrast of
textures), dalmation ham (smooth and buttery), dalmation
bacon ( a bit thicker and chewier), the house wine, figs
stuffed with almonds and soaked in spirits, the orange and
walnut liquors - excellent. The only thing that failed to win
me over was the stuffed bread (almost like a stuffed foccia).
A small cellar restaurant. I met a couple from Venice my
second time here.
Jorum Podrum
Duonja kola, Stari Grad, Hvar
tel 021-765-829; mob 091-573-63-76
jurinpodrum@yahoo.com
Recommended in Footprint. Had the house white, some
dalmation ham, spaghetti with lobster ( the tomatoes,
capers, garlic, white wine - wonderful) and a plate of
fresh fried girice (little fish which could be eaten whole).
The owner told me the best months are May, June,
September and October - July and August are too busy.
Macondo
Groda bb
tel. 021 -742-850
macondo@st.hinef.hr
Situated about a block off the main square and near
Hektorovica unfinished house - this is one of the more
upscale restaurants. The food quality is excellent. I did
the chef's recommendations - hvar sampler plate of fish
pate-octopus salad- marinated anchovies, fruta di mare
risotto, fish fillet w/roasted vegetables. Ordered a bottle
of white - Bodanjusa. For desert - a couple slices of fresh
succulent watermelon. Try and get a table outside
along the walkway - the lights swaying in the breeze,
people passing by - makes for a wonderful setting. Finished
with some homemade prosec - which was a deep ruby red.
had my last dinner here - lobster spaghetti (140 kn),
other white fish (120 kn), grilled vegetable (25 kn) a 1/2 liter
of house white (30 kn) - once again a beautiful peaceful setting -
late at night I had the walkway to myself.
Palaca Paladini
Luci Antun Tudor, Hvar
tel 385-021-742-104
email: paladinis@tihi-hvar.com
Located near Golden Shell and Konoba Luna. Had spaghetti
fruta de mare, grilled squid and a liter of the house white.
The grilled squid were excellent.
Two Fisherman (Dua Ribara)
located on Fabrika; between Stelle di mare and Hotel Adriatic;
along the harbor's edge
tel 021-741-109
Great view of the town and harbor - try a get a table during sunset.
Ordered a plate of dalmation ham, locally made cheese and a liter of
house white. Decide to try the lamb which was okay - maybe a
little over cooked. But the view is great.
The lemon ice cream was a nice a finish.
Gust
Frane Radica 14, Bol, Brac
tel 385-21-635-911; mob 098-423-003
Recommended in Footprint. Had lobster salad and salted sardines
(with a slice of onion and some olive oil - delicious) and the green
spaghetti fruta de mare (scampi, mussels,, shrimps, clams).
If you're in Bol this is a good choice.
Faria
Ulica sv. Marka, Hvar
mob 098-361-543
Located to the left of the cathedral. I stumbled upon
this place my first jet lagged night in Hvar after having
two bottles of wine and had a helluva time finding it again.
he huge patio is under a canopy of grape vines with
clusters of grapes within arms reach. The restaurant
seems to cater more to large groups and families. Tried
a hvar plate (sampling of ham, pag cheese, sardines and
seafood salad) and carpet shells ( clams - not as plump as
mussels but briny and plentiful.
Hotel Skalinada
Zavala, Hvar
tel / fax 385-021-767-019
After driving through a very long dark tunnel and making
my way down a steep twisting road I found this restaurant
on the south side of the island. A fisherman was delivering
a freshly caught fish to the owner/chef. I started with gnochhi
with gorgonzola (50 kn) and a fillet from the freshly caught
fish with zuchinni + potatoes (70 kn) and a liter of the house
white (20 kn). There are also rooms for rent - if you're
looking for a true get away on the island the south side is
the place to go.
Piscena
Piscena, Hvar
boat taxi - Mice Domancic
mob ++385-91-1742-936
The Blue Grotto had been canceled so I decided to take a
boat taxi (50 kn) to a private cove, which just happened to
have a restaurant owned by the boat taxi driver (eating
there is optional). While I swam and laid out, MIchael
started up a wood fire in the grill. I had ham(20 kn), a
whole grilled fish (180 kn) and the house white (10kn) -
with tip: 250 kn. The setting - the tranquility - the food -
the boat ride - a perfect meal
If you would like me to post my trip activities, please let me know....
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I'll be greeting my 40th in Istanbul this October - after researching here and
elsewhere I have a tentative list of the places i'm considering. I know some of
them are bit standard but it's my first visit to Istanbul.
Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Not sure for my
birthday dinner to go to Korfez or Tugra - any opinions?
DINNER:
Korfez
Korfez Caddesi 78, Kanlica, 413-4314
Balikci Sabahattin
Cankurtaran Sait Hasan Kuyu Solak 1,
Sultanhamet, 458-1824
(behind the Armada hotel)
Daruzziyafe
http://www.daruzziyafe.com.tr/default.htm
Tugra, Ciragan Palace
Sunset Grill
5KAT
Park Fora
Muallim Naci Caddesi 134,
Cemil Topuzlu Parki, Kurucesme, 265-5063
Haci Adullah, Beyoglu
Sakiz Agaci Caddesi 17, Beyoglu, TAKSIM
BACK UP:
Kiyi
Kefelikoy Caddesi 126, Tarabya, 262 0002
LUNCH:
Armada Hotel terrace
http://www.armadahotel.com.tr/index.shtm
restaurant in Uskudas
Haci Baba, Taksim
Pandeli, Spice Bazaar
Kumkapi, Istiklal, Nevizade Street - pedestrian restaurant streets
Feriye (very close to Ciragan)
Mavi Yesil, Kurucesme
Muallim Naci Sokak 170,
Kurucesme, 265 5481
ALTERNATES:
Galata Bridge cafes - you can have a wonderful view
of the Eminonu Pier and the Topkapi, with all the
ferries coming and going. Specially nice for the sunsets,
you can have a wonderful view of the Istanbul skyline
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Just a head ups - the Black Rooster is in the process of moving into central Prague and will hopefully be open by the end of August. They serve great contemporary Czech cuisine.
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201 -
Here how to get to my Oaxaca page:
1. go to virtualtourist.com
2. in the 'SEARCH FOR' box enter MARKTYNERNYC, click on MEMBERS then hit GO
3. under member & motto click on marktynernyc
4. click on 'VIEW ALL TRAVEL PAGES' (right side of web page)
5. scroll down to North America: Mexico: Estado de Oaxaca:
click on Oaxaca de Juarez which will take you to my Oaxaca page
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One other thing - prices. For example, dinner at El Naranjo - three margaritas, soup, salad, mole dish, stuffed chile, dessert, coffee and tip came out to about $450 pesos - a bargain as far I'm concerned. Everything is very reasonable - and if you're on a really tight budget the mercado is the place to eat. I regret not trying some of the grilled meats at the mercado (next time).
Morelia & Huatulco report....
in Mexico: Dining
Posted
(sorry - I was away this weekend)
Misc:
Mercado de Dulces
Wandered through and tried the coconut/lime treat (was tasty), tamarind (which was sweet) and
tamarind rolled in chili powder (which is an acquired taste) - both tamarind treats possess a lot of
seeds. I also tried atole de guyaba - which was great at night when the temperature had dropped.
Couldn't find atole de negro. Overall the merchants sell the same treats - and the upstairs "crafts"
section is pretty bland, but has some great vintage postcards.
Monarch butterfly preserve / El Rosario
http://www.mmg.com.mx
I did an all day excursion (400.00) to the monarch butterfly preserve in El Rosario. Seven of us
departed Morelia with Luis Miguel around 9 am and drove for about 2 hours through the Michoacan
countryside, which is beautiful. Green fields - pear and apple tree groves, newly planted agave,
shallow lakes. The hike into the mountains starts at a village that has numerous small restaurants
and stores. The hike takes about 1 1/2 hours to get to the main viewing area - the air does get thinner
as you hike upward through the forest. Along the way Luis told the migration pattern, the theories and
the folklore associated with the monarch butterflies. The butterfly nucleus drifts, and expands on the
mountain side according to weather conditions. You cannot walk underneath the huge mass of
butterflies clinging to the trees anymore - however, Luis did bring some high powered binoculars
which allowed for incredible viewing. Also, when the sun went behind clouds, the air was filled with
monarch butterflies fluttering about everywhere. Personally - I found the experience moving - it almost
felt like a pilgrimage, the forest lending a cathedral like quality, the migration of millions of monarchs
from Canada to Mexico for thousands of years - a rewarding experience. Hiking back to
the small village we had lunch at one of the restaurants, which was included with our excursion - we
started with freshly grilled nopales, hand pressed blue corn tortillas which were thick, chewy and
slightly charred form the stove. With a dollop of a wonderful home made picante amarillo salsa, I
was in heaven. I ordered pollo con mole, rice and beans (which was okay, the enchiladas looked
better) and quesadillas with requeson (the cheese slightly tart), which were great - a couple
cervesas - this meal hit the spot perfectly. If you choose to do the butterfly excursion - I really
recommend Luis - the group size was intimate, he is extremely knowledgeable and personable -
just a satisfying experience. His company also offer tours of Morelia and surrounding environs.