Whether the customer is right or wrong has been well debated here, but those of you who have read Bourdain's book "Kitchen Confidential" will know that kitchens have less than subtle ways of taking revenge on guests who insist on messing with the chef's ideas. Nico Ladenis is a very different case, a charming man I have had the pleasure of meeting a few times, when he started his restaurant he was determined to raise the gastronomic level above that generally prevailing in restaurants at the time (abysmal). He set out his stance very clearly, you ate his food as he intended or you dined somewhere else. Far from failing he succeeded very well and finally achieved 3 Michelin stars (the ultimate European accolade) at his restaurant on Park Lane, London. In the process he gave a great deal of pleasure and satisfaction to those who appreciate good food, and probably annoyed the h**l out of a minority who thought the customer was always right. But he and a few like minded chefs did succeed in raising the overall standard of food in Britain. In today's dining scene it might be considered too autocratic, but then it was probably necessary