ADNY on a very bad day (even under Delouvrier) was very much a Michelin 3-star, and at the very least, a NYTimes 4 star. Bruni's understanding of Michelin 3 stars and how special they are (the European ones; I'm thinking Arpege, Pierre Gagnaire, etc.), borders on the criminally incompetent. That he didn't issue a re-review of Esnault's ADNY should have gotten Bruni fired. Let's see what he does with Ducasse's upcoming NY place. But you can bet your behind he'll say something snarky and completely irrelevant, like "Now, Ducasse has decided that the less fussy approach is better, and Adour is better than its over the top predecessor." I bet the man would love to see cafeteria style dining rooms in every restaurant (which is what the Bar Room, even though the food is very good, is).