Diva, I'm curious about your take on dining expectations American visitors bring to Italy. What makes a restaurant like Da Cinotto so unique to my experience but almost commonplace in Italy? The food, of course, is outstanding. Yet there is an economy of movement, a respect for the customer, an unforced presentation, and a natural setting that I just don't experience here at home. At a business lunch with nine or ten of us at the table Stany (sp?) effortlessly attended us and worked the rest of the room while his wife worked the kitchen. That was it - just the two of them. Great food in a warm atmosphere. Amazing. He even gracefully handled a colleague who decided to pull out her Ugly American routine during this meal. Is it as fundamental as, aside from the tourist traps, the diner is never under the clock to eat and get out? During two trips to Italy covering four weeks of dining out, the only meal where we were pressured to eat and move was at Il Latini, Firenze. (The place could have been dropped into Epcot-Disney World. For me, the experience was a fabrication developed by focus groups to keep the Americans marching through the door.) Certainly, the use of the freshest ingredients plus centuries of tradition are missing from our Chilis-Fridays-Applebees culinary canon. Is this why we are blown away by the simple and comfortable style of many Italian restaurants? Or, do a lot of us show up and complain that we can't find spaghetti and meatballs or a good hamburger? - Bob G.