nickloman

Also, not sure why Ducasse and other stars feel they need to act like such absolute nobheads.

Great read - but I agree a strange thing to air in public, perhaps its his way of dealing with it.

Anyone tried the Hand & Flowers yet? It's booked up this weekend.

Well, now this is over, I don't think Alan Murchison has done his reputation any favours! A bit more humility might be useful next time. Tom Kerridge and Kenny Atkinson on the other hand must be turning them away in droves!

I stayed at Jesmond Dene House Hotel a few weeks back as I was attending a conference in Newcastle. I had the misfortune of trying the tasting menu. Just a few highlights from my meal: The amuse bouche of black bean veloute with tarragon foam. I had to have two sips just to check it truly was as horrible as I thought it was. I could make a more flavoursome stock by sitting in the bath for half an hour. I sent it back as being "really not very nice". A fairly interminable wait for the first real course, although to be fair the waiters were good and offered me a paper to read. A plate of asparagus saw some thin, tasteless spears seemingly grilled. The scaldingly hot plate (a recurring theme) served to congeal the (fairly nice) tasting mustard cream sauce. There was a redundant foam. An oyster served on the half-shell smelt distictly fishy so I declined to eat it fearing the consequences. Apparently had a horseradish foam on top with a huge mass of sliced apple. I was asked "not really to your taste?" Foie gras course was fine. A bitter cress salad had a very punchy dressing. Served with a bit of dry brioche, recognisable as the same stuff from breakfast. Walnut wine jelly didn't add anything. John Dory. Slightly overcooked but not drastic. Came with actually a quite nice pasta which was in a bland creamy sauce which was particularly appreciated as I was craving carbs at this point, about 2 hours into the meal. Beef with bone marrow. I sat alone with my beef fillet for some time until the waiter realised I had no cutlery. Beef was OK. Bone marrow unseasoned. Served with a disgusting attempt at panisse, dry, unseasoned, nasty. Thick sauce congealed with the massive heat of the plate. Thick reduction was at least a reservoir of salt for the other underseasoned items. Pre-dessert was introduced as an amuse bouche. Can't remember anything about it other than it being horrid. Lemon cheesecake. The topping was piped onto a shortbread biscuit in the style of a beach lilo. Not great. The best thing about the meal was the overheard conversation of two increasingly drunk businessmen who were having a seriously emo time together. I read that Jesmond Dene recently went their separate ways with Terry Layborne (http://www.caterersearch.com/Articles/2010/02/18/332320/Terry-Laybourne-to-sell-stake-in-Jesmond-Dene-House.htm) which perhaps explains the woeful meal I endured here. Avoid.

And by the way, to show that I am open-minded, I popped into LIDL. There was some sparrow grass for £1/bunch with a UK flag on, so fair enough. But the veg was generally in a sorry state (mould on the rhubarb) and the selection very limited. Edit: hmm, I realise I went to the wrong place, I should have gone to ALDI not LIDL .. my bad!

Got some epic green and purple asparagus from Revills at the weekend. The lady seemed quite surprised and pleased when I told her I'd driven all the way from Birmingham. This time I sliced it lengthwise on the mandolin and served with papardelle and Berkswell, very nice indeed. I know the pub you mean I think - isn't it called the Dog Inn - which conjurs up various images... I think if you continue in that direction you get to Bakewells Farm who did our Xmas duck and also can sell you duck hearts by the dozen, always a welcome treat!

Nope, not tried yet, I had planned to go back when I posted my original message, the day before we flew on holiday, but my better half convinced me that half a dozen dripping mangos was not the thing to try and take on the plane. But I am very much back on the hunt so I will be visiting one of your suggestions in the next day or two!!

The Mussel Inn?

Oh tremendous, I will go to one of your suggestions first thing Saturday morning!! Nice one!

A friend of mine had some incredible Alphonso mangos from Goa and brought them into work to share yesterday. They were spectacular. He got them from an Indian supermarket in Leicester (Macdonald Road). Anyone know any decent sources in the West Midlands?

I haven't seen any (not that I've been looking hard). Where's the farm near you? I really think the supermarkets should say the date/time the asparagus was picked, as this makes a huge difference to the taste. Or just buy them it from farm shops where you know it will be just picked, and eat it same day.

It's from Le Touquet, innit. Perard. I wouldn't have ever thought of using it as a risotto stock, and I don't think I've changed my mind after recent events. Eat it as a soup

Ottolenghi in Islington?

http://www.telegraph.co.uk/earth/earthnews/7710409/Tesco-criticised-for-selling-Peruvian-asparagus-in-British-home-of-the-vegetable.html

Ouch

Aldi is being suggested as a gourmet food destination? Really? I have to admit I'm far too much of a snob to even consider going there. Although funnily enough I did once ask a taxi driver in Essex to take me to the Audi garage, and he took me to an Aldi headoffice, somewhere near Chelmsford.

Hmmm. This was on my list to try next time I have the misfortune to be in South London. But what I think you are describing David is a kind of studied indifference in the service, usually associated with restaurants which have been popular for a long time. Being a long-term regular presumably takes the edge off this. That kind of thing really bugs me so I think I might give it a miss. And the food doesn't look that special either, rather ugly plating with portions too mean to be called "rustic".

Yes, it is rediculous we haven't been there yet. The reason is rather amusing. We were fortunate to see Will Holland demonstrate at the Ludlow Food Festival several years ago. He demonstrated how to make a ballotine of salmon and a saddle of lamb. My mother being game for a laugh got invited up on stage to "help out" and as a reward we got given the spoils of the demonstration as a present. Will told us to take the ballotine of salmon and poach it sous vide at 50 or so degrees at home. Having no professional equipment we tried to do this in a pan of water. No doubt we messed it up because the results were absolutely disgusting But as a result my other half has groaned at any suggestion of going to Le Becasse, citing the salmon incident! Quite unfair on Mr Holland who was only doing us a favour

Think I'm going to have to pay Will Holland a visit soon, his main course looked lovely, but I am an asparagus nutter.

I know it is terrifically bad form to link to blogs but I hope the other members will indulge me as I'm a regular! Our recent (excellent) experience at the Ledbury has been written up here http://nickloman.wordpress.com/2010/05/03/the-ledbury/

I will be going to the Fleece Inn at Bretforton on 31st May bank holiday for the asparagus festival, this is not to be missed if you love the sparrow-grass.

Cheers for the tip fella. I popped in on my way home from work yesterday and picked up some lovely asparagus. It is as you say exactly what a farm shop should be like, great stuff. Ordered a whole Tamworth pig for next week too, £2.50 per kilo is comparable to what i've been getting from my usual supplier, so we'll see what the quality is like. No problems! Did you go on the miniature railway Have you been here? http://www.revillsfarmshop.co.uk/ This also looks good. Not tried it yet. http://www.clivesfruitfarm.co.uk/ were selling some fantastic (for England) tomatoes in Worcester yesterday, and some very decent asparagus. Might have to try their PYO.

Lovely stuff. I was just in Waitrose and saw Hampshire asparagus next to Thailand asparagus and on the opposite shelf there were Heart of England asparagus. What's wrong with supermarket buyers?!

I think its probably one of those things these days best eaten in Jersey, supplied by a local trusted farmer. The stuff I've had from supermarkets doesn't seem to justify the massive price tag.