David McDuff

Great notes as always, Jim. And yet another confirmation that I really need to start exploring Texier's wines.

Saint-Joseph Blanc “Ro-Rée,” Domaine Chèze 2006 The oak is immediately apparent in Ro-Rée, not just on the nose but even to the eye. Its color is a shimmering gold in the glass, richer in hue than would be typical for a young un-oaked wine. Yet the barrel influence does not subdue the natural aromas and flavors of golden apples and raisins, honey and honeysuckle, acacia and fresh pineapple, quince and fig gelée. It’s quite round in the mouth, even slightly oily in texture, yet it stays clear of overtly buttery, over-handled characteristics. Medium acidity and firm texture keep it balanced. The oak influence broods but is well integrated, supported by the sweet, nutty concentration of the wine’s fruit. On day two, my notes remained fairly consistent, though an additional nuttiness emerged – pecans I think – along with dark, stony minerality and a touch of wood tannins on the finish. This is not my everyday cup of tea but it’s definitely well made wine that would be well suited to fish and white meats with rich sauces. $35. 13% alcohol. Natural cork. Importer: Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ. Paso Robles Roussanne “Tablas Creek Vineyard,” Edmunds St. John 2004 Considerably paler in the glass than Chèze’s Saint-Joseph, this is akin to the color of dried hay. Initial aromas are rather neutral, with just a suggestion of beeswax and a saline, seashell quality. It’s texturally lean, even a little jagged, and just slightly oxidative in style. In that sense, I found it somewhat reminiscent of a Loire Valley Chenin Blanc – Savennières perhaps – when caught in its dumb phase. The wine has intense length though, with hazelnut and lanolin tones emerging in the mouth. There’s high-toned acidity and a vaguely vegetal hint (no, vegetal is not always a bad word) on the mid-palate. This is built for food and is solid, very interesting wine, at once muscular yet crisp. The only problem is its high alcohol, which doesn’t quite burn but does create disjointedness in the wine’s overall harmony. On day two, it became more aromatic, with a nose of potpourri, lime zest and peach blossoms emerging and then giving way to intense minerality. I’d like to look at this again in another couple of years. $26. 14.5% alcohol. Natural cork. Photos and considerably more background information can be found at: Whites à la Mode du Rhône.

No offense taken. I was thinking more along the lines of the associations people would form, i.e., Maia -- sounds like Wawa. Based on my brunch in the bistro, some of which was excellent, some of which has room for improvement, there's definitely potential. Food obviously can't be judged by appearances alone, but the goods available in the market side of the business looked promising. I didn't even make it upstairs to see the posh branch of the business. As to the multiple entities, you're right. Maia's huge scope carries with it a certain lack of focus. Here are my blog comments on brunch, which I left out of my original eG post for the sake of brevity: I started with something that showcases the restaurant’s attachment to the buy local phenomenon. Their “Bistro Salad” is an undeniably fresh assortment of arugula, radiccihio and red mustard greens, topped with a few candied walnuts and crumbled goat cheese from local Shellbark Hollow Farm. This may sound ridiculous but it was the best salad I’ve had in ages. Quality ingredients helped it along but what made it for me was the perfectly balanced, deeply flavorful citrus shallot vinaigrette. The Maia Burger fell a little short of the standard-setting salad. The house ground, dry aged sirloin was intensely beefy. But somewhere between our order and the kitchen, the medium-rare test was failed. I’m giving it the benefit of the doubt on this occasion, as I think the mistake may have been in communication rather than entirely in the cook’s hands. Nonetheless, what arrived was a perfectly shaped (almost too much so) patty that had been cooked into completely gray submission. Choosing such a lean cut for a burger may make that a hard error to avoid. Luckily, the burger, like the salad, was clearly made from prime raw materials. Along with a generous topping of melted Pennsylvania Noble Cheddar, the quality of beef helped keep the burger flavorful in spite of its overcooked state. A welcome spark of heat was delivered from an unexpected quarter – the firm, black pepper potato roll on which the Maia Burger is served. [edited for spelling/grammar correction]

Ah, always the flatterer, V. There certainly is a prepared food supermarket aspect to it, along the lines of Food Source perhaps. But there are also at least two if not three distinct restaurant entities -- the bar/bistro, cafeteria and upstairs fine dining room -- encompassed in the whole.

Set in a rather antiseptically upscale strip mall and corporate office complex, Maia, the dining and food court megaplex that opened just three weeks ago in the center of Villanova, isn’t much to look at from the outside. Inside, though, there’s something for just about everyone. At least that seems to be the idea as conceived by chefs/owners/brothers Patrick and Terence Feury, along with their partners and investors in a bevy of pan-culinary suburban Philadelphia outposts that, in addition to Feury outpost Nectar, includes Basil, Cin Cin, Tango and Yangming. The sheer scale at Maia is daunting. 22,000 square feet of showroom floor – the space was previously a briefly lived Fresh Grocer supermarket – allow for numerous subdivisions. Front and left, there’s a white tiled coffee, pastry and juice bar, seemingly tailored to the suburban mom on the move. Behind that is the large bar and lounge area – all brick and dark, right down to the parquet flooring – the site of both an apparently bustling weekend bar scene and of Maia’s full service but casual dining area. Beyond that yet, at rear and center, is an open kitchen clad in polished stainless steel. According to our server, it’s just a fraction of Maia’s absolutely cavernous, luxe kitchen space. Once past the gauntlet of hostesses in the entrance foyer, the right side of Maia’s ground floor is site to the market portion of the business as well as to its most casual dining space, more cafeteria than café. One entire wall is lined with refrigerated beverage cases, displaying an extremely deep selection of bottled beers. Following along the walls, from right to left, front to rear, there’s another coffee bar, more pastry, a charcuterie counter and, finally, the market’s prepared food selections, displayed in glass cases which run the length of the back wall, eventually converging with the open kitchen area. And that’s just the ground floor. There’s a full second floor as well, home to Maia’s more formal, fine dining room. The upside to all that space is the obvious opportunity it provides for diversity, even if it carries with it a certain lack of focus. The downside is an economy of scale in which the scale may just prove too large for the possibility of economic success. Time will tell, I suppose. In the Feury brothers’ own words, their menu draws on "the rich culinary traditions of Scandinavia, Alsace and the abundance of natural resources afforded by the East Coast's fertile soils." Their “bistro brunch” menu is peppered with Alsatian classics like choucroute, tarte flambé and a charcuterie platter. They take their place alongside a cured fish smörgåsbord and grilled Norwegian salmon, anchored by a balance of dishes that draw equally from French bistro and American café standards. In addition to the aforementioned tremendous selection of beers in bottle, Maia also pours a solid lineup on draft. Choices are listed by style followed by brewery, name, location and alcohol information. Standouts on the current list include locals like Troegs Pale Ale and Sly Fox Pikeland Pils, and Belgians such as Grimbergen Dubbel and Géants “Goliath.” I whet my whistle with a crisp, refreshing Kölsch from Gaffel, a brewery in Köln, Germany, and then settled into a pint of Founders’ “Centennial” American IPA to accompany my burger. The list of wines available by the glass is a touch less exciting but does include a few reliable choices such as Weingut Huber’s Grüner Veltliner “Hugo” and the Crémant d’Alsace Rosé of Lucien Albrecht. Prices, running anywhere between 2x to 3x markups, are moderate relative to the oft outrageous PA scale. It will take at least another half-dozen trips to Maia to really come to grips with all it has to offer. The temptation level is certainly there. Heck, even the ham and Gruyere sandwich in their to-go case looked damn good. Maia Restaurant and Market 789 East Lancaster Avenue Suite 150 Villanova, PA 19085 610-527-4888 Photos and food details can be found at: Much More Than a Burger and a Beer at Maia.

Thanks, Jim. That means a lot coming from you. cheers, David

Cheverny, Le Petit Chambord (François Cazin) 2006 François Cazin’s low-yield farming shows through in spades in the richly concentrated fruit and slightly unctuous texture of his 2006 Cheverny Blanc, a blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Chardonnay. Given its high alcohol (14.5%) and marked residual sugar, I can’t help but consider this atypical for Cheverny. The herbaceous and mineral edge I expect from the AOC are missing and subdued respectively, replaced by round, ripe lemon and tangerine fruit and aromas of white tree blossoms. Cazin was obviously working with some pretty ripe raw materials in this vintage. The wine stops just short of being fully honeyed. On the up side, its alcohol is not at all apparent. There’s a chalky acidity that stands out on the mid-palate. In spite of all the concentration, its purity of fruit, along with that high-toned acidity, helped to make this pretty satisfying as an aperitif. It also worked well with a salad of field greens, goat cheese and roasted golden beets. $16. 14.5% alcohol. Natural cork. Importer: Louis/Dressner, New York, NY. Irouléguy Blanc “I Lori" ("Les Jonquilles"), Domaine Brana 2004 This is a wine, especially tasting it now, which I wish I’d gone long on. “I Lori” is Basque, “Les Jonquilles” French, for Narcissus jonquilla, the yellow wildflowers native to southern Europe that grow widely on the terraced hillsides in Irouléguy. This is Domaine Brana’s “basic” white, a blend of Gros Manseng and Petit Courbu, vinified without wood influence. At first sniff, it gave off a cheesy pungency that I’ve noticed before in Jurançon Sec and other Pyrenéean whites. With air, that funk transformed into a much fresher expression of lime pith, kumquat and hay, with mountain meadow floral and herbaceous notes evocative of the wine’s name. Although it’s a tad lower alcohol than typical for Irouléguy Blanc, it still shows the area’s savage power and dryness via its combination of visceral acidity and intense persistence. Lip smackingly good even at first, it just kept getting better right up to the last drop. Spot on with mussels in a saffron cream sauce. $14 on release. 13.5% alcohol. Composite cork. Importer: Wine Traditions, Falls Church, VA. Barbera d’Alba “Cascina Francia,” Giacomo Conterno 2005 This is wine that somehow manages to capture the innately rustic personality of Barbera yet express it with elegance, structure and fine balance. The characteristic muscle of Serralunga fruit is all there. Plum and mulberry fruit and dense earthiness are followed by a hint of cocoa-driven opulence and restrained spiciness, the influence of a two-year aging regimen in old botti of Slovonian oak. Hardly every day Barbera, this is profound, a real vino di meditazione. There may not be a better pairing out there for the short ribs and gorgonzola gnocchi served at our meal. $30. 14% alcohol. Natural cork. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, NY. As usual, photos and a bit more detail can be found at: Wines at the Bistro.

Opened just two months ago, Bistro on the Brandywine is the newest venture of Brandywine Valley restaurateur Dan Butler. Sister restaurant and parking lot neighbor to Brandywine Prime, it’s Butler’s second opening on the Route 1 corridor in sleepy Chadds Ford, PA in just a little over a year. By way of full disclosure, I’ve conducted wine dinners at a number of Dan’s restaurants over the years. As a result, I’m not a stranger when walking into any of his establishments. Also as a result, I generally opt not to write up my dining experiences at said establishments. However, I figured I’d make an exception this time, given that the Bistro is new, BYOB – more on that later – and a generally charming little spot. Given the full house on a Friday night, it also seems to have filled a void in its neighborhood, fitting neatly in the gap between fine dining and basic pub grub. There were some clear standouts based on our quick sampling of the menu. Medium-sized mussels, which can be ordered in both appetizer and entrée sized portions, were drenched in a deeply flavorful and intensely creamy saffron sauce. The accompanying frites are cut in house, double-fried and combine crispiness with surprisingly potato-y fleshiness given their matchstick size. The only minor shortcoming on that plate was the aioli dip for the fries, which could be a bit zestier and a little less rich. A massive tousle of the same fries came as a de facto part of my main course of steak frites. The hangar steak itself was richly beefy, cooked perfectly medium-rare (except at its most tapered end), appropriately chewy and ratcheted up a notch by a drizzle of shallot infused demi-glace. I would have preferred a thinner, crispier crust, along with more acidic sauce and slightly higher seasoning for the pizza margherita we shared as an appetizer. That didn’t stop us from asking to take the leftovers home, though. And it may just be an appealing style for the customers that come with kids in tow. For those with a predilection for richness, the short ribs are an exercise in the extremes of comfort food. Braised in veal stock, served with Gorgonzola gnocchi and generously sauced, they were, no bones about it, decadent. No doubt good news to the restaurant’s potential cash flow, its liquor license application was approved just the day before our visit. There is already a short list of Pennsylvania beers in bottle and a wine list so tiny as to be cute – just two whites and two reds, all offered by the glass and the bottle. I’m sure the list will quickly come up to speed. The good news for the local wine-toting crowd is that the restaurant plans to continue its BYOB policy indefinitely. The $5 corkage fee per bottle is justified by quality stemware and waived if a bottle is ordered from the list. Bistro on the Brandywine 1623 Baltimore Pike (at Routes 1 & 100) Chadds Ford, PA 19317 610-388-8090 Photos and further details of our visit can be found at: First Look -- Bistro on the Brandywine.

The Fief du Breuil sounds great, Jim. I opened a measly 750ml of the 2004 not long ago and found it delicious yet still a baby.

Pfalz Weißer Burgunder Kabinett trocken, Weingut Münzberg (Lothar Kessler & Söhne) 2006 Along with their full range of other specialties, the Kessler sons, Gunther and Rainer, turn out pure, vibrant examples of Pfalz Weißer Burgunder (aka, Pinot Blanc) from their family estate, Weingut Münzberg. There’s an element of creamed corn right up front in this wine. While I’ve cited that flavor in a negative context in a past tasting note (on Tocai, not Pinot Blanc), here it’s an integral part of the wine, forward at first but eventually fading and intertwining with the wine’s more elegant facets. Those facets of elegance are expressed by the white peach and yellow apple fruit and the fine mineral character that emerge with aeration. There’s an overall impression of medium acidity and clean, crisp framework. The integrated nuance of corn adds freshness as well as a sweet, starchy flavor snap, which is finished off by a tactile suggestion of white grape skins. A good quaffer and quite food friendly, it’s only a shame that it no longer sells for the $15 price tag of a couple of years ago. $20. 12% alcohol. Vinolok. Importer: Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ. Chablis Grand Cru “Les Clos,” Vincent Dauvissat 2005 Right out of the barrel, so to speak, this showed classic Dauvissat flavors of lemon rind dusted generously over white river stones that have yet to be polished to complete smoothness. Along with good persistence, there’s a very sapid wood element, already well integrated. In fact, as far as integration goes, I was surprised at how well this terribly young wine was showing already. Plenty of lime pith and mineral laced fruit on the palate. I got the sense as the wine warmed and aired a bit that, wrapped up by its currently gripping acidity, there’s a richer, more voluptuous wine waiting to emerge. At this point in its evolution though, I was surprised by its overall lack of concentration and muscle. Very good wine but not clearly elevated above or differentiated from Dauvissat’s Premier Cru offerings. Price unknown; currently sells online for $125-225. 13% alcohol. Natural cork. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL. Gevrey-Chembertin Premier Cru “Aux Combottes” Vieilles Vignes, Jacky Truchot-Martin 2003 This one was a showstopper. Say what you will about the ripe-fruited or even atypical aspects of 2003 Burgundy, here the quality of the vintage brought sheer loveliness into play. Immediate impressions were of pickled plums and Christmas spice cake, with signature Truchot aromas of wild cherries and clay lurking beneath. There was another element that took me a few moments to nail down: sarsaparilla (sasparilla, if you prefer). Really beautiful wine. Silky, fine tannins, balanced acidity, sweet, nuanced fruit; it had the whole package and then some. Price unknown; most likely $70-100. 11-14% alcohol. Natural cork. Importer: Weygandt/Metzler, Unionville, PA. Sancerre “Clos la Neore,” Edmond Vatan 2006 After the Gevrey-Chambertin and a wonderful plate of roast lamb, fingerling potatoes and sautéed chard, I’ll admit to having a hard time giving Vatan’s Sancerre the attention it was due. Good company and good food put it into perspective as something that was opened just for pure enjoyment – not that the other wines weren’t as well. What I can say is that Vatan’s Sancerre is like few others. It lacks the fresh, fruity attack of lemon and grapefruit tones of much other Upper Loire Sauvignon. However, it makes up for that with intense stoniness – more round than racy – a highly perfumed aspect of lime oil and muscular, fleshy acidity. The wine’s intense physiological extract suggests both very old vines and very low yields. Though I’ve never had a mature bottle, I expect that this could get very interesting with age. Regrettably, if my understanding is correct, 2006 was Vatan’s last vintage. It’s not cheap for Sancerre but, if your budget allows, it would be worth snagging a bottle or two while the possibility of doing so remains. $49. 13% alcohol. Natural cork. Importer: Wine Cellars Ltd., Briarcliff Manor, NY. “Acquired from a Private Collection.” Loazzolo “Piasa Rischei” Vendemmia Tardive, Forteto della Luja 2003 Given that fresh berries are coming into season, it seemed to make sense to open something sticky as accompaniment. Loazzolo is a small DOC zone situated in the Langhe hills near Asti, Alba and Acqui Terme. The single vineyard “Piasa Rischei” is a blend of 95% Moscato and 5% Passula, one of several wines produced at Forteto della Luja but the only one that falls under the Loazollo DOC. It’s not just a late harvest wine but also a long harvest wine; picking begins in late September and continues into November. At each tri, harvesters select only fruit that is showing early signs of being affected by botrytis. About 15% of the fruit goes through the passito process, being partially dried on canvas mats. The end result is a still wine with surprising density and concentration. Given the relatively dark flavors and lower than typical frizz of their Moscato d’Asti, which I’d tried on an earlier occasion, I shouldn’t have been surprised. Ripe, musky melon and honeyed peach fruit intermingle with the golden aromas of autumn leaves in a dry forest. Sweet, loamy and spicy, this was as contemplative as it was easy to enjoy at the end of a lovely evening. Price unknown. 11.5% alcohol. Natural cork. Purchased in situ. Photos and a smidgen of additional information/detail can be found at: Notes from a Sunday -- Memorial Weekend Edition.

Surprised to see that this thread's been dormant for over a year. Isn't anyone going to Southwark any more? Actually, it has been a while since I've been for dinner. As for cocktails, however.... Most of the crew from last week's dinner at Cochon headed over to Southwark for a nightcap and a little extra chewing (or digesting) of the fat. The Sazerac was a mighty good starting point. And the much debated Manhattan put just the right finishing touch on the evening. A couple of additional photos and a short write-up can be found at: Late Night at Southwark. Must head back for a meal sometime soon.

It may be a week late and a dollar short, but I've added my own photos (smaller than usual as they're a little rough) and a bit of commentary at: Cochon: First Porcine Impressions Looking at PhilaDining's photos, I'm not sure why I bothered to take any. He was hogging all the light ;-)

Glad to hear you enjoyed the vistit, TT. I'm looking forward to the arrival in the US of the Chateauneuf du Papes from Domaine des Relagnes. They're due ashore sometime in the next month or two. I've enjoyed both of Calissanne's olive oils in the past but haven't had the quince jam. Please do report back.

Traisental Grüner Veltliner “Hugo,” Weingut Huber 2007 This is Huber’s entry-level Grüner Veltliner, made from fruit purchased under regular contract. It’s picked two weeks early, to capture GV’s young, citric characteristics. Vinification is all in stainless steel. Very crisp and clean if somewhat neutral in the fruit department. White pepper, lemon zest and brisk minerality, with a touch of white floral character. Very refreshing. Also quite attractive as an everyday pour given its modest price point. Apparently that’s a common viewpoint, as “Hugo” is the top selling Austrian wine on the US market. 2 grams residual sugar (RS), 11.5-12% alcohol. Traisental Grüner Veltliner “Alte Setzen,” Weingut Huber 2006 “Alte Setzen” is a single vineyard that includes some of Huber’s oldest vines, approaching 50 years of age in some cases. Its soil is rich, with 25 meters of loess above a limestone base. In direct opposition to “Hugo,” this is picked intentionally overripe, with about 5-10% botrytis, in order to showcase the exotic side of Grüner Veltliner. And exotic it is, with rich, round texture and a spicy flavor profile. Minerality is less racy here, more round and stony, like a river rock. Half of this cuvée is fermented and aged in untoasted acacia casks, which are entirely neutral and very tight grained. The other half is done in steel. Both see some battonage, used along with wood to soften the wine’s acidity. This is well done, as it would seem an accurate representation of the “Alte Setzen” terroir. However, it’s not really to my taste, as the lower acidity leads to both fatness and a greater perception of sweetness on the palate than the wine’s modest residual sugar would normally suggest. 3.5 grams RS, 13-13.5% alcohol. Traisental Grüner Veltliner “Berg,” Weingut Huber 2006 This offered seeming proof that Huber’s wines reflect their terroir. For all “California Chardonnay is dry” folks out there, it also demonstrated clearly that the perception of sweetness is not just about residual sugar; acid balance has an awful lot to do with it as well. “Berg” is Huber’s highest elevation vineyard site, planted on a terraced hillside that reaches a 45% grade at its steepest points. Only 10-15 centimeters of humus lies above an otherwise rocky base of pure limestone conglomerate. Fruit is harvested in mid-late November, again with 5-10% botrytis. Vinification is in 100% old acacia barrels, some of which date back to the 1960s. There are exotic and stone fruit characteristics – mango and marmalade, apple and honey – along with GV’s typical streak of white pepper and minerality. The mineral character and texture goes back to the racy, limestone-driven end of the spectrum, carrying off 14% alcohol levels without losing balance. It’s all just carried on a more muscular framework. RS levels are similar to “Alte Setzen” but the “Berg” feels and tastes much drier. Traisental Riesling “Terrassen,” Weingut Huber 2006 Switching gears to Riesling, “Terrassen” fills the same basic slot in the lineup as “Hugo” does relative to the Grüner Veltliners. Fruit comes from multiple terraced vineyards (thus the name) and is fermented and aged completely in steel cuves. Fruit is picked at full ripeness with no noble rot and fermented out to complete dryness. Again like the Hugo, this is crisp, racy and very drinkable but has greater depth and more finesse. For Markus, this was the wine that showed best on the evening. 12.5% alcohol. Traisental Riesling “Berg,” Weingut Huber 2006 For me, this was the wine of the night. Picked at full ripeness, with no botrytis, this is fermented in steel then aged in old acacia casks. Beautiful wine. More aromatic than the “Terrassen,” with intense limestone character, apricot and clover honey on the palate. Reminds me of “Von der Fels” from Klaus-Peter Keller. Intensely sapid, minerally texture. The finish lasts for minutes. And the wine’s balance and structure totally hide its 6 grams RS, helped along no doubt by 8 grams of acidity. Traisental Zweigelt, Weingut Huber 2006 Switching gears again, this time to red. Huber grows only a small amount of red fruit and it’s all Zweigelt, the eponymous crossing of Saint Laurent and Blaufrankisch developed by Dr. Zweigelt in 1922. In most years, this is the only red produced. Harvested in mid-October and aged in 2,000-liter casks of Austrian oak. Juicy plum and black cherry fruit. A touch of stem, spice and thyme lend aromatic interest. There’s easy drinking charm up front but also a touch of what strikes me as rot on the mid-palate. Traisental Zweigelt “Reserve,” Weingut Huber 2003 Huber produces a “Reserve” Zweigelt only in what they consider exceptional vintages, thus far being only 2003 and 2006. The fruit is very clean, surprisingly lighter in color than the regular bottling, though Markus attributes some of that to the wine’s age. Very sweet plum is dressed up with oak-driven vanillin. 50% of the wine sees 2nd year French oak, the other half ages in Austrian oak. Soft and pretty but I prefer Zweigelt’s character when unadorned by the taste of wood. This would make for a good ringer in a new world Pinot Noir tasting. In 2003, Huber was still using cork for their reds. Traisental Scheurebe Trockenbeerenauslese, Weingut Huber 1995 This TBA was made during papa Huber’s era; Markus no longer grows Scheurebe at all. 80-100% botrytis affected fruit was crushed and then soaked in its own “mash” for 24-36 hours until an enzyme reaction started to release actual liquid from the dessicated fruit. As one might expect, this was intensely concentrated and fat, loaded with fig, lavender and exotic fruit. Volatile and prickly on the nose. The color of buckwheat honey, a flavor echoed in the wine. Viscous and in your face, yet hard not to enjoy. Not another TBA was produced at Weingut Huber until a Riesling in 2005. 240 grams RS, 10.5% alcohol. Additional background information and photos can be found at: Weingut Huber in Austria's Traisental.

Thanks, Jeff, on both counts. I'm still figuring out the nuances of food photography and PhillyD's photos are top notch, so I appreciate the comparison.

Reservation hypotheses are debunked and the current menu profiled in my most recent write-up: Spring 2008 at Talula's Table. There may be some hope for smaller parties....

Hello all, My recent writeup of dinner at Osteria has opened a discussion about the practice of wine glass seasoning, which has finally arrived on the Philly scene. To Season or Not to Season? cheers, David

Bringing the thread back around to food, at least mostly. There may be a wine or two in there somewhere.... For the second consecutive Easter, I headed to Osteria for dinner. Aside from some shortcomings with the secondi (which seems to be a recurring issue) and, yes, with the wine pricing, it was a delicious meal. An extensive write-up, including photos and wine notes, can be found at: Easter at Osteria Redux.

Denis Langue, Commercial Director for Château Calissanne, recently stopped by my workplace. His visit, just a couple of weeks ago, afforded the opportunity to reacquaint myself with many of the estate’s wines as well as to taste a few new entries in their lineup. Coteaux d’Aix en Provence Rosé, Château Calissanne 2007 A classic Provencal rosé de saignée, this is a blend of approximately 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Somewhere in there is a smidgen of Mourvedre, a relatively new entry to the estate’s rosé blend. Brilliantly silver-toned salmon pink in the glass. Explosively aromatic. Denis mentions that it’s considered “too dark” according to the current fashion for faintingly pale rosés in the south of France; nonetheless, it’s several shades paler than the 2005 and 2006 versions of the same cuvée. Totally dry, with refreshing acidity, snappy red berry fruit and a whiff of rosemary. 13% alcohol. Coteaux d’Aix en Provence Rouge, Château Calissanne 2005 Identical in makeup to the 2007 rosé, save the absence of any Mourvedre. Bright fruit with fine tannin delineation. Smoke, garrigue and blackberry, along with cinnamon bark. Juicy and at the same time briary texture. Temperature controlled pipes were installed in the winery in 2004, allowing fruit to be chilled to around 12ºC/52ºF before entry into the fermentation vats. The slower, gentler start to fermentation this enables has led to a wine that shows more boisterous, fresh fruit than in the pre-2004 years, when roasted fruit (not unpleasantly so) and more herbal flavors were not uncommon. In some respects, I preferred the earlier versions for their food-friendliness. But the 2005 is hard not to enjoy, especially as it’s showing well now that it’s had some time in the bottle. 13% alcohol. Châteauneuf du Pape, Domaine des Relagnes 2005 With all wines from the 2005 vintage (as well as 2004) already finished and aging mostly in cement vats and about 20% old foudres, Jean Bonnet, winemaker at Calissanne and now Relagnes as well, was responsible only for the final assemblage and bottling of this vintage. 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre. Detailed black raspberry fruit with firm, well developed tannins. Surprisingly restrained, at least in the context of an AOC not particularly know for restraint, especially from a fairly blockbuster vintage. Old school in its vinification as well as its style and balance. 14.5% alcohol. Châteauneuf du Pape, Domaine des Relagnes 2004 Same story here as with the 2005, same blend and same vinification. A touch more delicate in its fruit than the 2005, it’s also a touch more firmly tannic, with spicy, red berry fruit on the palate. Equally well balanced and drinkable now or later. Bonnet plans to add some new oak and smaller barrels starting in 2006, which will be the estate’s first full vintage under the new ownership and management. The introduction of more oak is a shame, I think. One can only hope the wines will remain as fine. 14.5% alcohol. Coteaux d’Aix en Provence “Clos Victoire” Rouge, Château Calissanne 2003 Switching gears back to Calissanne, “Clos Victoire” is the estate’s best vineyard site and has historically been their top wine. It’s also unabashedly modern in style. 70% Syrah, done in 100% new barriques, plus 30% Cabernet Sauvignon that is aged in barriques of one-to-two wines. The regulations for the Coteaux d’Aix AOC require a relatively even spread between Grenache, Syrah and Cabernet in the vineyard, and allow for small amounts of Mourvedre and Cinsault. In the cellar, however, those same regulations allow what essentially amounts to total freedom in terms of blending ratio. Even varietal wines are permitted. Chocolate and blackberry scented, darkly spicy. The oak, which is obvious on the nose, is better integrated on the palate. Tight and muscular. This was the last vintage produced before the upgrade to the winery’s temperature control systems. Labeled as 13% alcohol. Coteaux d’Aix en Provence “Rocher Rouge,” Château Calissanne 2003 Totally new to me, this is varietal Mourvedre from a 1.8-hectare plot near the red rock (rocher rouge) cliffs behind the estate. 2003 is the first commercialized vintage, with 2000 the first year it was produced on an exploratory basis. Big, deep impact, without being driven by big, rich fruit. Sauvage aromas, wild red berry fruit, bacon and ripe, savory herbs. Full, wide-grained tannins, good acidity and very long on the finish. This packs more finesse and delicacy on a less rich frame than the Clos Victoire. In Denis’ estimation, it’s like Burgundy crossed with Bandol. It’s not terribly like either, though obviously closer to its Provencal cousin, just with greater fruit freshness than in the average Bandol. Downright delicious wine. The question will be one of QPR, given the estimated $75 price point. 13.5% alcohol. Coteaux d’Aix en Provence Blanc, Château Calissanne 2007 Denis described the 2007 vintage as beautiful in the south. It shows in this wine, which I’ve found flabby and bland in many past vintages. 60% Rolle (Vermentino), 30% Semillon and 10% Clairette, with vinification and aging in steel and cement. Just bottled in mid-February. A little tropical but not overly yeasty, with peach nectar and white grapiness balanced by medium acidity and a hint of chalkiness. Not a bad choice for summer glugging and pairing with simple fish dishes. 13.5% alcohol. Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc, Domaine des Relagnes 2006 An equal part blend of Roussanne, Clairette, Grenache Blanc and Bourboulenc, co-fermented and aged entirely in cement vats. No barrel at all. Bonnet was responsible for bottling only. Rich nose of peach and apple skins, with pear and pineapple on the palate. White stone minerality and wild honey cascade on the finish. Produced from 80-100 year-old vines, cropped at low yields of 30 hl/ha with each vine producing four-to-six clusters. Lovely wine, with good structure and backbone to spare. Built to cellar though plenty tasty now. 14.5% alcohol. An introduction, additional background information and photographs can be found at: Getting Reacquainted with Château Calissanne.

I had the chance to check out Salento recently. Overall, a very solid experience though, as philadining suggested, a few tweaks and a little more care in the kitchen could easily bring the overall quality up a notch or two. Full details and photos can be found at: MFWT Visits Salento.

Neuchâtel, Caves du Château d’Auvernier 2005 Caves du Château D’Auvernier seems to dominate the export market for Swiss wines, simply by observation of what few other wines from Switzerland appear with any regularity on the shelves in shops throughout the Mid-Atlantic States. Oddly enough, though I’ve eyed this bottling many, many times over the years, I’d never actually tried it until recently. Perhaps it’s natural that I’d always given the wine a pass based on its relatively high price point, an issue it seems with just about all Swiss wine that finds its way to the US market. As it turns out, I hadn’t been missing much. This is a typically neutral expression of Chasselas, or Chasselas Fendant Roux as the locals call it in the Valais. A slightly lactic, yogurty nose leads to a somewhat dilute, nutty, mineral and lime tinged flavor profile. Though theoretically viable as an aperitif and a decent choice for sharp cheese, fresh water fish or fondue, its practical application is severely hampered by poor QPR. At a little over $20 per bottle, there’s just way too much better, cheaper wine out there to make this anything more than a passing curiosity or a comfort wine for homesick Swiss expatriates. Arbois Chardonnay “En Chante-Merle,” Régine and Jean Rijckaert 2005 If we’d tasted blind, I’d never have guessed varietal Chardonnay. Cool climate, yes. Perhaps Cour-Cheverny or maybe even regular Cheverny Blanc, but definitely not varietal Chardonnay. The first note hit on the palate was of slight oxidation. Then came hay along with racy lemon, lime and papaya fruit. Nervy acidity blew away the oxidative tone of the wine, keeping it fresh in spite of the up-front suggestion of evolution. Add to all that a limestone streaked nose and solid persistence and you’ve got a pretty cool little wine that’s loaded with character. I’d happily enjoy it with the same range of foods suggested above for the Neuchâtel, though it’s definitely more demanding of being served with food. Montlouis Sec “Les Petits Boulay,” Domaine Deletang 1999 Finding an older vintage on the shelves of a shop that’s not particularly renowned for buying library releases straight from producers’ caves can always be a risky gamble. But at $6 for a 1999 Montlouis, the risks are more than worth the potential rewards. The odds landed in our favor on this occasion, delivering not a profound example of Montlouis at its best but a wine that was fairly compelling and a sound example of mid-life, mid-range Chenin Blanc. The oxidative theme continued into this last wine of our tasting. Boiled wool, almond butter, asparagus water and beeswax all turned up on the nose, with good purity of structure following on the tongue. Not a terribly giving wine, but intriguing for its stony, crackly finish. Photo and a tad more detail at: MFWT -- Three Odd Whites.

Poured and tasted at a recent fund raising dinner. Photos and more background info at: Pouring for a Good Cause. Champagne "Dom Perignon," Moët et Chandon 1990 All bottles were consistently fresh and in fine shape, with excellent mousse retention. Cremini mushroom, lightly toasted croissant and a whiff of sulfur on the nose. Sweet front palate attack, followed by lime flesh, melon and honeysuckle notes. Drinking well. Napa Valley Chardonnay "Library Selection," Trefethen Vineyards 1985 Trefethen often holds back some of their estate wines for later release, allowing the wines to develop some bottle age before reaching their customers. The 1985 Chardonnay was re-released as a “Library Selection” in 1992. The five bottles I opened had been resting in our hosts’ cellar ever since. One was corked, one was madeirized but the other three were in great shape – still fresh and alive, reflecting the relatively minimalist approach in the Trefethen cellars. It’s not that the wine was terribly complex, more that it was eye opening for so many of the guests to taste a 22 year-old California white that was still in great shape. Slightly coppery robe. Quarzite minerality, crisp Bartlett pear fruit and still crunchy acidity. Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru, Domaine Rossignol-Trapet 1990 and Chambertin Grand Cru "Cuvée Vieilles Vignes," Domaine Rossignol-Trapet 1990 In a stacked field, these were the wines of the night. The Latricières was the planned pour. As I opened the wines, I was focused more on gentle handling and dealing with the uniformly crumbly corks. So it wasn’t until I taste tested each bottle that I noticed that one was significantly different. The Latricières was lacy and perfumed with dried wild red berry fruit and feminine sous-bois aromas. Lightly silky tannins and well-balanced acidity carried the same flavors through to the mouth. When I got to bottle three, suddenly there was black fruit, darker, richer earth and much more substantial tannic structure – not tight but muscular – along with a much more noticeable oak influence. I looked down and realized there was a stray bottle of Chambertin “Vieilles Vignes” in the mix. I wasn’t complaining about the little complication it added to service, as both wines were rare treats to taste and, in spite of the tired corks, in solid condition. Saint-Émilion Premier Grand Cru Classé, Château Cheval Blanc 1983 (from Imperial) Lovely, developed Cabernet Franc driven nose, with sweet red currant fruit dancing with loamy, decaying leaves. Very supple, with elegant, restrained tannins. Lots of bottle bouquet and drinking perfectly, helped along no doubt by the super-sized format. Pessac-Léognan, Château La Mission Haut Brion 1989 As tightly wound and ungiving as 18 year-old wine gets. Muted aromatics are clearly of Left Bank cab, with a gravelly, sinewy black cassis and graphite profile. But this is still as clamped down as a closed bear trap. A decent foil to the beef course with which it was paired but, compared to the rest of the wines of the evening, nowhere ready to drink. Maybe it will be interesting in another 18 years but its total reticence now makes me wonder. Sauternes Premier Cru Classé, Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey 1990 Still very young but drinking quite nicely, with typical metallic, apricot and bittersweet orange marmalade notes allied to solid concentration and steely acidity. Hides its alcohol well. A lovely showing and fitting end to the evening.

Pierre Peters “Cuvée Spéciale” Brut 1999 Fruit from a single plot called “Chétillon” in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. Slightly reductive aromatically but delicious in the mouth. Lots of apple cider nuance. Aubry “La Nombre d’Or Sablé” Blanc des Blancs 2003 A blend including some of the Champenoise rarities cultivated by Aubry: 40% Chardonnay, 30% Arbanne and 30% Petit Meslier, with a miniscule two gram dosage, again using MCR rather than cane sugar. To add to the wacky wine factor, this is also in bottle at a lower pressure than normal, about four atmospheres rather than the usual six, a style Aubry refers to as “Sablé.” Wild aromas of funk, cheese and forest floor goodness. Weird, compelling and very much alive. Pehu-Simonet “Cuvée Junior” Millésime Brut 2002 A 50/50 Chardonnay/Pinot Noir blend, with the Pinot Noir vinified in wood. All Grand Cru fruit; intensely powerful, loaded with savory minerality. Marc Hébrart “Spécial Club” Brut 2002 I enjoyed the pleasure of meeting Jean-Paul Hébrart during a visit with Diebolt-Vallois – he’s married to Jacques Diebolt’s daughter, Isabelle – in February 2004 so it was a point of personal interest to get to taste this. It didn’t disappoint. A 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay blend showing tons of lime pith and red cherry skin character. Loads of sex appeal and simply delicious. These notes are extracted from a much more complete write-up of a recent presentation and tasting of some selections from the Terry Theise/Michael Skurnik Champagne portfolio.

Coste della Sesia “Orbello,” Aziende Agricole Sella 2004 I’d been looking forward to trying more from Sella ever since the last time I tasted their regular Lessona bottling. “Orbello” is a simpler, more jovial wine that falls under the more flexible Coste della Sesia DOC. It’s a blend of 50% Barbera, 25% Nebbiolo and 20% Cabernet Franc, with 5% Vespolina rounding out the pack. Pale ruby with the tinge of orange around the rim that seems typical to wines, both reds and rosés, of the region. Bright, lithe, juicy and refreshing, this could be a solid choice for a versatile, every day pour. In spite of its modest percentage in the blend, Nebbiolo asserts itself on the nose, which is dominated by early season raspberries and a touch of red licorice. With aeration, a leafy, slightly earthier element emerged. $16. 12.5% alcohol. Natural cork. Imported by Selected Estates of Europe, Mamaroneck, NY. Dolcetto d’Alba, G.D. Vajra 2006 Plummy, with bing cherry and blueberry fruit in spades, followed by a hint of cocoa. This is as forward a vintage of Aldo Vajra’s Dolcetto as I’ve tasted in some years. Its tannins are so fresh and grapey that they impart a feeling of actually holding just-crushed grape skins against your teeth. If only we’d had some carne cruda to complete the picture. If there’s a downside to the simple beauty of this wine, it’s a recent move in its price point. For years, it hovered in the mid-teens, making it one of my favorite characterful, food-friendly reds for regular drinking. The current strength of the Euro has pushed this Dolcetto’s price point into the low $20s, making it somewhat less casual in application. $21. 13% alcohol. Natural cork. Imported by Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ. Langhe Nebbiolo, G.D. Vajra 2006 Vajra’s Nebbiolo can often be extremely tightly wound when first released. Aromatically, this 2006 is no exception to that rule. However, it is already open-knit and unfurling wonderfully on the palate. Fresh, soft raspberry fruit, with nuances of rose petals, five spice and cinnamon. Firm acid lends a slight tanginess that is followed by delicate yet firm grip and excellent persistence, suitable for mid-term cellaring. I visited Vajra’s estate, located on the hillside above the hamlet of Barolo, two years ago. I’m so far behind on writing up winery profiles, which I’m trying to do chronologically, that for now I’ll have to fall back on the occasional tasting note. $27. 13.5% alcohol. Natural cork. Imported by Petit Pois, Moorestown, NJ. Lessona “Omaggio a Quintino Sella,” Aziende Agricole Sella 1999 This is Sella’s top wine, made only in strong vintages from a selection of the estate’s best barrels of Lessona. A blend of 80% Nebbiolo and 20% Vespolina, it spends a full three years in large barrels of old wood before bottling. When first opened, it reminded me immediately of a slightly sterner, more brooding version of the regular Lessona from 2001. Dried cherries and rosemary aromas hovered above an integrated wood-driven structure. Leather and wild cherry fruit followed in the mouth, with supple tannins, a rather narrow mid-palate and somewhat short finish. First impressions changed quickly with a bit of time in the glass, as the wine took on greater breadth and body, with a much rounder, purer mid-palate. Fuzzy red berry fruit and a little dusty attic kicked in on the finish. There’s plenty of life left here. Decanting would certainly be appropriate. $50. 12.5 % alcohol. Natural cork. Imported by Selected Estates of Europe, Mamaroneck, NY. As usual, you'll find some images, links and a touch more detail here.

It may not be the most ambitious thing on the menu but, as michael_g suggested a few posts ago, their burger is definitely worth a visit.