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girl chow

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  1. Ok, here's a summary of Cascadia then and now.

    THE CHECK

    Then (1999): Pricing was $65 for a 7-course "The Season" tasting menu. A la carte items were very reasonably in the $20-$30 range for entrees and $8-$15 for starters, with options for every bank account. Other tasting menus ranged from $72 for the "From the Market" menu to $85 for the "Decidedly Northwest" menu and $90 for the "Wild and Gathered."

    Now (2002): Pricing is $25 for a 3-course menu; $45 for a 7-course "From the Market" vegetarian menu; 7-course "Decidedly Northwest" menu is $65 and "Wild and Gathered" 7-course tasting is $65. Prices have dropped a bit for the tasting menus (although that could change seasonally too), but the a la carte items are still in the $20-$30 range with a few more moderately priced entrees (including one $18 pasta dish).

    THE FOOD

    Then (1999): A sampling of menu items from 1999's press kit: appetizers/salads/soups: chilled Oregon white truffle potato soup with wild watercress ($8); Cast iron baked halibut cheeks with morels and wild blueberry vinaigrette ($11); salad of Yakima valley soft fruits with pea vines and mint vinaigrette ($7); beach style Manilla clams, Penn Cove mussels, organic potatoes finished with double cream ($8); free range chicken terrine, spot prawns with hazelnut oil ($11); baby spinach and marinated bean curd salad, pickled garlic ($6.50); fresh raw Cascadia region oysters (interesting geographical description, eh?), Yellowstone river caviar, apples, mustard seedlings ($18); Kerry's designer soup in a can (puree of wild mushroom with Chateau Dumas cream) ($10.50).

    A sampling of entrees: wild grass and herb baked partridge with blackberry reduction, potato puree (entree, $30); roasted rack of Oregon rabbit with crisp yearling salmon, herbed pan juices ($23); rosemary roasted lamb lion with grilled apples, garlic straw fries, Pinot Noir glaze ($34); summer eggplant ravioli, glazed vegetables and sweet basil broth ($21); Herb roasted free-range chicken, potato cheese tart, mixed bean salad ($25); wild kind salmon on cedar fronds, brandied cherry sauce ($28).

    Now (2002): A sampling of appetizers/salads/soups: Duo of Housemade Paté pickles, grilled potato bread, organic radishes, onion mustard ($8); Baby Arugula Salad, Bosc pears, aged sharp Samish Bay Gouda, hazelnut vinaigrette ($8); Minted English Pea Bisque mint crisp ($7); Snap & Sugar Pea Salad leeks slow poached in olive oil, vegetable powders ($8); Mushroom Stuffed Mushrooms huckleberry reduction ($9); Skillet Seared Scallops dilled cucumbers, crisp potatoes ($9); Sea Salt Cured Herbed Salmon Penn Cove mussels, red onion dressing ($10); Cascadia Salad romaine, bacon, apples, classic Caesar dressing ($8); “Kerry’s Designer Soup in a Can” yellow tomato bisque, white truffle oil ($10); Fresh Raw Oysters flavored farmhouse vinegar ($11).

    A sampling of entrees: Wild King Salmonon cedar fronds with creamed broad bean tart, baby carrot sauce ($28); Crisp Alaskan Halibut Yukon Gold potatoes, Dungeness crab salad, crab sauce ($30); Mixed Grill of Lamb, Beef, Chicken & Salmon baby vegetables ($35); Grilled Washington Beef Tenderloin spinach, braised tomatoes, rosemary garlic french fries ($35-$38) Stuffed Loin of Rabbit sautéed peaches and sweet corn ($26); Linguine Pasta summer baby vegetables, cherry tomatoes, basil sauce ($18); Roast Nettle’s Farm Chicken molasses smoked baked beans, baked organic russet potatoes ($24).

    It's been about three years since my one and only dinner at Cascadia. I thought the pricing was fair then and think the pricing remains fair. I like something else: the kid's menu: noodles with butter and cheese ($6.50); Free-range honey roasted drumsticks with new potates ($8.50); Washington beef burger with Tillamook cheddar cheese, straw fries ($7.50).

    On my visit, I thought the food was incredibly and carefully prepared. I thought the atmosphere was inviting and relaxing (I could fall asleep listening to the water wall) and I really had a nice experience. We had the Wild and Gathered tasting menu and I remember really liking a salmon preparation, although my memory is too hazy to recollect more specific details. I do remember having just a fabulous selection of cheeses at the end of the meal. It was like I had died and gone to James Cook heaven :)

    As for the gimmicky cuteness of some presentations, such as Kerry Sear's trademark soup in a can, I think there is a conflict locally with such presentations for those who consider themselves the culinary elite (insert raspberry blow and gigantic eyeroll here). I remember when a certain chef who is a poster here got dinged by a certain reviewer when he served an appetizer atop a funky Buddha thing (I can't remember exactly what it was, but I know it was a kitschy statue) when he worked at a former, upscale Eastside restaurant (longtime posters will know who I'm talking about, but I don't want to embarass him if that incident still bothers him). I remember being really pissed to think that that reviewer was such a prudy ass that they couldn't appreciate his attempt at some humor. Out of place at a seriously upscale restaurant? Yeah, maybe (especially if you're a prudy ass), but I see absolutely nothing wrong with funky or kitschy or just plain experiemental presentations, so long as the food is solid. I respect playful chefs. But that's just the kind of person I am and my restaurant tastes run more toward restaurants with chefs who don't take themselves too seriously.

  2. I absolutely would love to try whale blubber. I've heard it described as tasting like a really salty, rubbery clam. But what NW technique would be used to cook it? Would you stick it on a cedar plank? Hmmmm..... How would Kerry Sear serve this? With locally harvested Oregon morels?

    An enterprising food reporter wrote a memorable story a few years ago after the Makah killed their first whale. I wish I had kept a copy. It was a tongue-in-cheek summary of the different ways to cook whale blubber and the fact that there aren't many people around who really know how to cook the stuff. Anyone remember that article?

  3. I wanted to add a link to The Ark restaurant, located on the Long Beach peninsula in Nahcotta.

    http://www.arkrestaurant.com

    The chef/owners, Nanci Main and Jimella Lucas, are really pioneers of the NW seasonal cooking movement. In their lobby, there's a picture of them with their arms wrapped around James Beard. Story has it that he absolutely loved that place and was a frequent diner there. Of course, there are pics of them with Bill Clinton and other famous people, but the picture with them and James Beard is the most telling to me :)

    If you're ever out in Long Beach or Ilwaco or anywhere on the Washington Coast, they're worthy of a detour. I've only eaten there in the winter, so I'm not sure what it's like in the summer tourist season. I suspect from May to September, it's a good idea to get a reservation. Get the oysters if they're on the menu!

    The atmosphere is veeeeeeery relaxed and informal. It's what I'd call casually elegant. It's very affordable. The menu may not seem groundbreaking, but that's probably because a legion of Seattle chefs have been ripping off their food for almost two decades :)

  4. I'm so glad you all started this conversation because I too think that it's more about the ingredients than about the technique when it comes to the "Northwest" theme. As nightscotsman pointed out, the only native technique we've got (at least that I can think of) is plank cooking salmon. I'm a fourth generation Northwesterner and I honestly can't think of anything other than plank or plank/pit cooking that would be considered a local technique handed down from the Native American culture -- or from any early groups of settlers. So maybe John Howie of Seastar (and formerly Palisade) can make claim to be the only guy around who uses distinct Northwest cooking methods. If others can think of specific NW techniques, please list them here! It would be fantastic to get a little "Northwest primer" going of local techniques :)

    And Steve, as someone who has been a food watcher since the Belltown/Northwest boom begain in the early 1990s in Seattle (but I'm by no means an expert), I first heard Kerry Sear use the "Decidedly Northwest" term when he opened Cascadia. In fact, I acquired a press kit from the opening of the restaurant (yes, I am a total dork for keeping these things, but I can't help myself... in 10 years I will sell them on ebay for $1.7 million to a food museum). In the press release announcing the opening of Cascadia, which is dated May 5, 1999... two months before Cascadia opened .... the release says this:

    "Located in the landmark Austin A. Bell Building at 2328 First Avenue between Bell and Battery Streets, Cascadia Restaurant will combine the white table-cloth elegance of New York City restaurants with the "ruggedness" of the Pacific Northwest, to offer Sear's "decidedly Northwest" dining experience. Influenced by traditional and Native American cooking techniques, Sear has created an a la carte menu that will feature items prepared exclusively with ingredients from the Cascade region -- located between the Pacific Ocean and Cascade mountain range . ... The restaurant's name and design were selected to reflect Sear's commitment to define Northwest dining....."

    So, after reading that.. I'm now wondering, just what exactly are these Native American techniques Kerry Sear is using and how do I learn them? :)

    And even if he uses the "Decidedly Northwest" as a buzzword for viral marketing, I'm down with that so long as it works. Look at all the attention chefs like Sear and Tom Douglas are bringing Seattle and the Northwest. I love that people are actually planning vacations here based on the notion that our food rocks. I love that. In terms of our restaurant culture and local food discovery, the last decade has been very exciting for Seattle :)

  5. A lot of restaurants may make claim to offering "Decidedly Northwest" or some variation, but I think it all boils down to the concept that Alice Waters and like chefs started a generation ago: use what you've got that's good and locally available. This notion of seasonal cooking using locally available ingredients, I think, has spawned a lot of "Northwest" restaurants. And I think it's a pretty damn good "trend" or whatever it is. I love that local restaurants like Cascadia are showcasing Northwest ingredients and flavors. I'm not sure I was really aware of the variety of our produce and locally produced artisinal products before the "Northwest" theme became hot in the 1990s. Now I don't think I could live without Rainier cherries, Sally Jackson cheese or our abundance of locally foraged mushrooms. It was chefs like Tom Douglas and Kerry Sear who brought those products -- and the farmers who grow them and artists who make them -- to national attention. I think it's a fantastic thing that we have finally realized that we have "arrived" when it comes to our local ingredients and products. It's like we woke up, looked around and declared, "Hey, our produce really does rock. How come we haven't been marketing these Rainier cherries to the Japanese all along?" Now, we're playing catchup by selling them for $500 a pound :)

    I'd like to make a point about the history of "Northwest" restaurants.... Long before there was a Belltown and long before there was Cascadia or any of the Tom Douglas trinity, there were two chefs in Nehcotta, Washington doing the whole Northwest seasonal thing. I think these two women predate Tom Douglas and Kerry Sear by a good decade: Nancy Main and Jimella Lucas. It was eons ago that James Beard "discovered" their restaurant and called it the best in the Northwest. They're still doing what other Northwest chefs have stumbled upon: showcasing our magnificent local bounty. I think they started by featuring the oysters that are harvested just outside their restaurant on Willapa Bay. And technically, they probably ripped off that concept from Alice Waters, although I couldn't say for sure..... :p

  6. Hahaha, I love the pic of the dessert followed by the pic of the empty dessert plate. Were those marks on the plate caused by your tongue? :)

    Can't wait to read the report. The only thing stopping me from eating at Mistral is my current dining budget. I'm on a banh mi budget right now, but I look forward to returning to a Mistral budget when my house remodeling project is complete next month (or October, doh!).

  7. Golkonda in Bellevue, which I previously posted about, served Southern Indian cuisine... but since my last post I called the restaurant and they're MIA. That totally sucks. They served really excellent masala dosa (yum).

    It's not the same, but the owners still operate a stand inside the Crossroads Shopping Center called Bite of India. They serve masala dosa there. The food is also vegetarian. But you have to eat in a mall food court (egads). I have to say, though, that the food court at the Crossroads Shopping Center is actually surprisingly good -- for a food court.

    I think that Bite of India is the only place in the region exclusively serving Southern Indian cuisine. If anyone knows otherwise, I'd love to hear it.

  8. The nicest setting for brunch is on the patio at the Madison Park Cafe. It's a peaceful atmo with lots of trees and flowering plants providing plenty of shade. The food is really good. I like the lemon ricotta pancakes and if they're on the menu, the huevos rancheros are unusual and good. The menu is very eclectic and has something for everyone.

    For atmo, this place can't be beat.

  9. Thanks mb70 for the Eastside info :)

    Also, The Souk rocks. They sell all kinds of interesting things there.

    I posted this on the other Indian thread, but Pabla in Renton is a combo restaurant with a sweet shop and grocery store attached. It's right off Rainier near downtown Renton and the Renton airport.

    In Kent, there is a grouping of Indian stores and restaurants on the East Hill, but I don't know if it would justify the trip all the way down to South County (easily 35-40 minutes from downtown Seattle). But if you're planning to be south of Seattle anyway, it's an interesting, although somewhat seedy, neighborhood. I shop for groceries in some of the stores and have lunch every so often.

    Here are the stores/restaurants on the East Hill. There are four that are right close to each other, then there are two more that are about 1/4 mile away. Call them for more info if you want something specific:

    India Combo, 24023 104th Ave. S.E., Kent; 253-520-2440. (restaurant)

    Punjab Sweets, 23617 104th Ave. S.E., Kent (bakery)

    Rainbow Boutique, 23613 104th Ave. S.E., (traditional clothes)

    KK Market, 23601 104th Ave. S.E.; 253-854-5236 (combo grocery store and video store and hair salon)

    Across the street from KK Market is a Valley Harvest, an ethnic grocery store with lots of Indian whole spices (and also lots of Thai/Asian/Mexican groceries.... love that place).

    Down the road is:

    India Bazaar, 20936 108th Ave. S.E., Kent; 253-850-8906

    House of India, 20938 108th Ave. S.E., Kent; 253-850-7700

  10. Mamster, I am so laughing my ass off right now. I would go anywhere if "Project" was in the name, but especially if the place was called the Hung Lo Project. hehehe.

    I got lychee!! Thanks for the reports on that people ;)

    And I agree with nightscotsman about his summary of Uwajimaya and 99 Ranch. I'd say 99 is cheaper for the most part, but I think Uwajimaya has a better selection. The real draw of 99 Ranch is that it's the only store of its kind south of Seattle where we southenders can get a broad selection of Asian ingredients at great prices. I can't believe people pay $2.79 for a can of coconut milk at QFC when 99 Ranch is just down the street with the same thing for 69 cents.

    Plus, the Great Wall Mall is a trip worth making. Besides 99 Ranch, there are all kinds of stores in the mall that merit exploring. I especially like the herb store and the bubble tea stand ... not to mention the housewares store.... yada yada yada...

  11. I bet Col Klink has already tried this place out, I'd love to hear what he thinks of HITW.

    Also, in addition to its Tukwila franchise, HITW has a franchise on the Eastside as well as a downtown Seattle location:

    10845 E. Marginal Way S., Tukwila; 206-764-1731 (located in Pacific Crest Brewing Company) see above post for URL

    215 James St. Seattle; 206-622-8717 (near Smith Tower)

    12437 116th Ave N.E., Kirkland; 425-821-6141; (located in Northwest Brew Werks) click here for more info: http://www.brewwerks.com/Brewwerks/default.htm

    I would never say HITW has the best Q I've had. But it's reliably good and cheap and those two things make it work for me :)

  12. Unfortunately, B.J. Shea has his dude fest "listener" parties at Rascal's AND Funsters (and Sliders and the Emerald Queen Casino). Of course, they aren't held every night, but I generally have avoided those places for fear of running into some sort of Tom Leykis wannabe fest. Uck. But if you say the restaurant is insulated from the shenanigans of the bar, I will def check it out.

    The Pacific Crest Brewing Company link is here: http://www.pacificcrestbrewing.com/

    They have several brews on tap and serve decent Q from Hole in the Wall. The HITW sauce is great. They're located off East Marginal Way in Tukwila. Kind of difficult to find, but worth the hunt. Go to the URL above for directions

    Have you ever tried Warthog in Fife? Love that place. It's kitschy and the Q is mighty fine. Also for South County Q, I like Cedar River Smokehouse in Renton and there is a place in Auburn called Smitty's. In Kent, everyone knows about Caveman, but I actually think H.D. Hotspur's is technically better. But H.D.'s has a lot of service problems and other things. This is probably a different thread, so I'll stop yammering now :)

    Let's hear more about steaks!!!

    Schielke, write a letter! It'll make you feel better :)

  13. HAHAHAHAAAAAAAAAA!! I agree 100 percent about Spencer's and The Hilton. Now everyone has to go there to see what we're talking about. You all will laugh...

    I have never been to Rascal's!! Mostly because I know that's where the Buzz shock jock BJ Shea holds his wet T-shirt contests or bikini contests or some kind of man fest thing. It seemed a little too dude-driven for me and frankly a little too much on the South End White Trash angle (like a trip to WalMart for dinner). Maybe I should go on a weekday afternoon so I miss all that dude stuff? When would you suggest a visit? Didn't you post once that the ribs were really good or something like that? Something about how they boil the ribs in the sauce? ...

    Have you ever been to Pacific Crest Brewing Company and Hole in the Wall BBQ? That place rules. It's one of my favorite finds in Tukwila.

  14. Oh, I meant to ask Shielke, did you talk to a manager about the confusion with the asparagus and mushrooms? What was the response? Was it one of those awkward situations where nobody wanted to question the bill? Or did you fight the charge and lose?

    Write a letter if you're still mad about it! That's completely lame.

  15. I've been to Spencer's twice and loved it (once was for a company party and the other was for dinner). I was so glad when it opened... there are so few good restaurants in SeaTac and Tukwila. Spencers' servers are a doting bunch, which I love.

    The prices are a bit more expensive than Jak's though, but less than Fleming's.

    What's weird about Spencer's is the atmo. It's pretty generic, but it has to be because the restaurant also serves breakfast and lunch. A steakhouse atmo would not work for those purposes. But that's my only real gripe about the place, and that's not even really a legitimate gripe considering the steaks rock.

    Oh, another thing I love is they offer you perrier or san pellegrino for the table (and keep the stuff coming). I think that's a great touch -- and they only charge a few bucks for the service. It's a nice addition to the meal.

    Anyone been to D.C.'s Steakhouse in Sammamish? I went about a year ago and wasn't impressed. I've heard they've gotten better though. My steak was overcooked medium well instead of medium rare. That was a pisser. I sent it back and the waiter, who had just started there after working at Red Robin in Issaquah, was flabbergasted that I was sending it back to the kitchen. He looked really scared, like he didn't know what to do. I felt really bad, but I also didn't want to eat shoe leather for dinner either. It worked out Ok. He survived and so did I.

    I'd love to hear about any other steak house -- whether it be a prime steakhouse or a neighborhood joint or the best place for a $6.95 steak (if that's possible outside of Vegas).

  16. Yes! Lychees are here! I talked to my mother-in-law last Thursday and she had gotten some at a grocery store in SeaTac. I've been to 99 Ranch twice in the last week, but they were out. I'm hoping they'll have some this afternoon.

    I recently discovered street after street of Asian grocery stores in South Tacoma on South Tacoma Way. I went into a few and I think they were Korean. My plan is to explore these stores more and give a full report! I had no idea that Tacoma had its own little International District. Interesting!

  17. Don't get me wrong!! Jak's is fantastic, especially for prices and a great atmo. I have never ever ever had a bad steak at Jak's, but I was trying to make the distinction that Jak's does not serve prime graded beef, while The Met, Morton's, El Gaucho, etc.are prime steakhouses and thus command prime prices.

    Big difference on the pocketbook.

  18. I've been to the Met a few times and I loved it. The atmo was fantastic. Make sure you budget enough for cocktails. One of the best Cosmos I've ever had was there. This is a great steakhouse experience. I actually strayed from the usual suspect on my last visit and had the "steak salad." Don't laugh! It's great -- and I didn't feel like loading up on a hefty piece of meat. The Met's "salad" comes with London Broil, an obscene amount of blue cheese crumbles, chunky tomatoes, etc.

    I've also had the filet mignon there. Yup, it ruled.

    I'm a filet kinda girl, but hubby is in the Mamster vein of "porterhouse" rules. He usually can eat it himself. It makes me sick to watch.

    I've also been to El Gaucho (Seattle and Portland ... and soon to be Tacoma), Morton's, Daniel's and Fleming's. I liked all of the above, but I would pick The Met for atmosphere and Fleming's for the prices (and they have a lot of wines by the glasses). When I'm on a real budget and not picky about getting prime steak, I head to Jak's in Issaquah or West Seattle. That's a great place for a well-priced steak.

    After reading this post, I realize just how much I miss my expense account. Damn cutbacks.

  19. My mother-in-law was born and raised in India and she claims there is no such thing as authentic Indian food in Seattle. Still, hubby (who was raised eating "authentic" Indian food whatever that is) and I both think there are plenty of worthy contendors locally.

    I agree that Raga in Kirkland is good. I realy like the owner, he's really devoted to giving a great dining experience. He serves some really interesting seafood preperations, including a curried mussel dish I really liked on my last visit. But your vegetarian friend may not dig that much. The parking around there can suck, so plan on walking a few blocks.

    I really like Golkonda in Bellevue -- near Bellevue Crossroads -- because it's 100 percent vegetarian and the curries are out of this world. They serve a mean veggie korma and really good naan. Chutney's in Bellevue (of the same chain in Seattle) is interesting. It's a bistro style Indian restaurant with an unusual take on traditional Indian. Again, I stress that it's not "authentic," but they really aren't trying to be either.

    But my all time fave Indian restaurant is in my neck of the woods -- Pabla Indian Cuisine, 364 Renton Center Way S.W., Renton; 425-228-4625 (right off Rainier). It's completely vegetarian and has a grocery store and sweet shop attached. This is a must visit if you're in the Renton 'hood. I love it!

    Let us know where you take your friend and what his thoughts were. I'm always on the prowl for a good Indian restauarant.

  20. Tighe, so glad you brought up this great place. I discovered it after it opened. A really nice family owns the place (the owner is a local software guru who was born and raised in Turkey).

    You did a great job of describing the dinner menu, but I'd also love to point everyone's attention to the breakfasts at A Lu Turca! They have a great selection. The two big jars on the railing by the kitchen are full of homemade turkish style preserves. They are not to be missed! This is a must eat in Renton (along with the Melrose Grill, Zen Sushi, Jubilante, Cedar River Smokehouse, Armondo's, Gene's Ristorante, etc..... helloooo, I am your official South King County delegate, aren't I?)

    Oh, another Middle Eastern place to try in Renton is Omar Al Khyam, 354 Sunset Blvd N., Renton. 425-271-8300. The food is more Lebanese and is really quite good. The atmo is, well, a little crusty, but the service is always wonderful and the place is typically pretty crowded. I really like a fried cauliflower dish called zahra (or something similar). It's served with a sauce that tastes of tahini. It might even be as good as Jim Dixon's cauliflower :)

  21. I've tried to eat at the new MSH Redmond THREE times now. It has been so packed, it's impossible to get a table. So I compromised and got my food to go yesterday. As always, the roti canai ROCKS! I think it's worthy of a meal on its own. I'll report more when I go back for a "real" experience (hopefully next week). But I wanted to let you all know that the place is still hoppin. Also, they only take cash. No credit, no checks. Just a warning :)

    Any news on the ID location?

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