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JohnL

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  1. I have to admit I agreed 100 per cent with Richman's take. I have been to NO several times (as a tourist) and aside from a few wonderful places (I recall Cafe Sbiza?) I must admit (as does Richman) I just don't get the hoopla! Much of the food is overkill--the folks who enjoy the Las Vegas all you can eat buffets would love NO) --say aren't those the folks NO is trying to draw? Isn't Vegas prime convention competition? Creole and Cajun are IMOP confusing and difficult to grasp. I also believe that locals use these terms to hype up the attractions for the tourists. NO is a serious party town and one can certainly have a lot of fun. I also found the people to be friendly and interesting and good hosts (that's one reason why it is a great place for a party) It is a city where excess is welcome! Fair enough. Richman is an iconoclast and does say outrageous things--these pieces are really about him and his take. He is controversial and entertaining that's why he makes the big bucks. Is't NO somewhat controversial and entertaining too? I would take what he writes with a grain of salt (ok maybe a tablespoon--we're talkin excess here) Delving into the finer points of a roux to discredit him and all his opinion is to miss the point. Anyway--I found myself agreeing with most of what he was saying--and even if I disagreed I would have enjoyed the humor and sarcasm. Remember this is the guy who couldn't find a decent slice of pizza in Naples!
  2. 1. yes 2. mine 3. apparently you ← So it's all about you! Fair enough. I really don't care. I do care when one feels the need to denigrate one wine to promote another. I am curious as to how you have been able to recently taste all these "bargains." Many of which (as you indicate) are difficult to find--how have you found them? I have noted many times that alerting people to worthy wines (and wine bargains) is a welcome endeavor. Most every major wine publication and wine critic does this as a primary responsibility. So making a recommendation based on the attributes of a particular wine is usually a safe way to go. I am not sure why you can't simply do this without muddying up the waters with tired arguments about old world vs new world. The truth is things are changing and these notions are rapidly disappearing. I am seeing more and more labels on European wines with the varietal listed. Screw tops are also turning up. broad and sweeping pronouncements like many you make are no longer valid. Terroir is important but it has been misused by many European proponents to sell wines as superior when, in fact (in the glass) the wines are disappointing (and not so unique). There are many interesting wines (from small and large) wine makers from places like the Loire but for years many wines were disappointing--out of balance acid in sauvignon blancs, watery and bland Muscadets and under ripe vegetal cabernet Francs. I would say that part of the reason many of these wines are not widely known and sold here is they got off to a bad start! The Languedoc has had their problems as well, witness the sweeping changes there. You mentioned Tannat earlier, well the microbullage that so many old world proponants have decried (Nossitor for one) was invented by the French to soften wines from a varietal that produces hard tannic and unapproachable wines. The fact is too many people (consumers and the trade) tasted many of these wines and found them no bargain at all--at any price. It is also true that the small number of fine efforts were snapped up and sold here by many fine and diligent importers. (many thanks to them). what is often overlooked is that these importers often convinced these small producers to adapt wine making techniques in order to improve the wines to the point that they could be sold--the new world telling the old world how to make wine--sacre bleu!!! You also fail to advise people that many of the wines you are recommending are based on a specific vintage and that buying another (lesser vintage) means they may be getting a wine that tastes quite differently. Oh but that's terroir! Yes, that's a red wine made in a cool climate so expect a lot of variation year to year. Perhaps this is also a reason these wines have not achieved great popularity. (wines from warmer climes do not face this problem as acutely-and yes they have their problems with over ripeness.) Things are improving. We are seeing better quality wines at all price points more often. I have no argument with many of the wines you note here. (I am still wondering how you found some). Things are improving elsewhere as well--Australia is certainly not a monolithic producer of monolithic wines--all shiraz's do not taste the same any more than all syrah's from the Rhone do! Anytime I see someone bring up Yellowtail the alarm bells go off. Why don't you make the comparison with one of the many mass produced wines from Europe (maybe from one of those mega co-ops). The problem is you are overselling the wines you want to recommend; and as if that's not enough, you set up straw men as competition. I have seen far too many instances of experienced tasters confusing US Chardonnay with white Burgundy and Aussie Shiraz with Northern Rhone syrah--things are just not so simple! IMOP your fine tasting notes and some basic information about these wines is really all they need. (it is certainly all I need) anyway cheers! and keep the recommendations coming!!!
  3. I would agree with most of the recommendations here. I would add: Shun Lee West and a favorite: Gabriels on 60th Street across from the TW Center. This is a stylish and very good Northern Italian that draws a lot of high powered folks from broadcasting etc service is warm and friendly and the food is very good often superb. also Picholine is excellent (I have not been since the recent renovation) and Cafe Des Artistes is one of the most beautiful restaurants in NY with superb service. The food tends toward French Bistro/Brasserie and is good (if not spectacular)
  4. JohnL

    1999 G. Conterno Barolo

    I tasted this wine recently. It IMOP will not be approachable for fifteen to twenty years. That is basically the track record for this wine which is one of the world's greatest. I just finished my last bottle of the 1970 which is drinking beautifully! you are lucky to have these bottles!
  5. I would argue exactly the opposite. At the top end of the spectrum there are stunning wines being made throughout the world that equal the most famous French wines. It is at the lower price ranges where we are getting blown away by the French, Italians, Spanish, Germans and Austrians. ← There you go again! "Blown away"????? The French produce more great 1--pinot Noirs 2--cabernets 3--merlots 4--chenin blancs 5--Syrahs 6--sauvignon blancs 7--chardonnays than any other countries. other countries do produce world class wines no argument-- but right now France continues to lead the way with what they have accomplished with the very top level of wines from these major varietals one can easily say they set a standard. as for the inexpensive wines? we can argue this one forever. as I suspected, you are attempting to take a side in the old world vs new world argument --this isn't really about France (is it?) or interesting wines. It is about attempting to make a case that doesn't hold much water (or wine). Who really cares? There is plenty of good wine from all over the world. It is Europe that is having to change their vin and viticulture. It is Europe that has the most serious problem selling their wines on the world market that has the most difficulty competing at the lower price levels--I wonder why? They have no problem selling their high end stuff.--I wonder why? It is the Europeans themselves who are pulling up vines and destroying the inexpensive wines they can't sell to anyone (even themselves). Want lots of New World recommendations? Just go back to the web site you recommended. You yourself noted that France leads the way with higher end wines--read your original post! I happen to enjoy lots of inexpensive wines from France and other countries. Considering that France and Italy produce about six timers the amount of wine from hundreds more varietals than the US does it is suprising that they can't do even better! Truth is the Europeans have their set of problems to overcome and other countries have theirs is this about world dominence in wine? what foolishness! So they are "blowin" who away--the US, Australia, Chile? who? By what criteria? Total gallons? Number of types of wines? Quality? (please define this one for me) who cares?
  6. I disagree. The French have just as many difficulties in making inexpensive wine as do wine makers anywhere. The specific nature and degree of those difficulties will vary. Comparing France to LI is not very valid, in fact, comparing France to the entire US is shaky at best. France produces more than double the amount of wine we do, their wine making history goes back way farther than ours. I would argue that while both France and the US do a nice job at the under twenty price point; it is at the very top levels where France outdoes us (maybe the world) overall. Craig is pointing up some nice wines from France at under twenty dollars that are certainly deserving of consumers attention. I prefer to leave it at that! I don't see any point in making some sort of contest out of it.
  7. I'm glad you see the point of the article. Wine lovers should try many different wines, but unfortunately they don't and are rarely given the chance by most wholesalers, retailers and restaurants. ← I do! I do! (see the point) By the way my definition of "great" is based on having been lucky enough to taste many great wines (I am certainly not sitting on a cellar full of them!). My point was--there are some wines that achieve a greatness and help set a standard. Here in New York there are regular tastings where for a few hundred dollars one can taste some of the truly great wines ever made. Thankfully there are many very fine wines that are within most people's reach and certainly many many very good wines that are downright inexpensive. you are right to point up many wines you like in this category here. I am not as pessimistic as you seem to be. Importers and restaurants and retailers are coming around and are looking for interesting wines at all price levels. I would guess that most major metropolitan areas are seeing a wider selection of wines as they become available. It takes time. Most of all--the wines are better--more cleanly made and viniculture is progressing to the point where there are fewer bad vintages. No one would argue for over oaked wines any more than one would argue for a highly acid wine. Yet it is important to note that people have varying degrees of tolerance for oak and acidity. The truth is there are many wines that do use too much oak and there are many wines that are too acidic. Bad and good wines come from everywhere wine is made. I refuse see the wine world as a zero sum game--let's celebrate the good wines wherever they come from and how ever much they cost. (a good wine at a nice price does deserve special recognition!)
  8. That is simply untrue. Maybe it's true if your definition of "great" means over-priced, over-oaked, over-extracted, over-manipulated, over-pointed and over-rated. There are many great wines out there that don't meet this criteria. Big wine + Big Prices = Great Wine is one of the big lies propagated by the industrial wines producers as these are things they can manipulate. They have proven it is easy to manipulate wine, media and consumers. If that is your definition of great so be it, it's not mine. ← Craig My definition of great is simple--I reserve it for wines that transcend everyday drinking pleasures. Great? 1947 Cheval Blanc, 1951 La Tache etc etc etc 1982 Margaux. 1990 Dom Perignon..... It is hard to see how a truly great wine could be produced for under twenty dollars given the expense and effort involved. That's all I am saying. Try to find a great pinot noir for under twenty dollars regardless of style of the wine--even the french have determined this by establishing a hierarchy--any grand cru wines available for twenty bucks??? You clearly have some sort of ax to grind. I never mentioned oak or extraction. You seem to fixate on these things. We can certainly disagree on what specific wines we would call great (or good or very good). Everyone's list of top ten will be somewhat different. Instead of recommending some worthy wines on the basis of their merits, you seem to feel the need to make a political statement. I feel this slights the wines you are touting which are worthy of tasting attention. One can (and should) be able to talk about the benefits of, say, a well made Sancerre without stereotyping and trashing another wine concluding--the Sancerre is good because it is not.... There are many styles of wine produced even within an area like the Loire one may prefer a certain style over another that's called choice. The wine lover who realizes this and tries many different styles will benefit.
  9. There's no huge "kibosh" on French products. You are correct in noting the healthy economy that is encouraging the wine business to grow. The answer is (as noted by some posters) in the nature of the wine importing business. Also you would be wrong to believe there are hundreds of "undiscovered" French wine makers turning out wonderful and unique wines that would sell here for under twenty dollars. Many of the under twenty wines are produced by large co-ops and also by large negociants in France (and elsewhere). Those made by smaller operations that are worth exporting are "handled" by one of the many well established importers. (Craig lists a handful of notable names). There are a growing number of smaller retail establishments that "specialize" in wines from lesser known producers. Unfortunately, many are in major cities on the coasts (and Chicago) for example Chambers Street, Burgundy Wine Company , Pasanella, Italian Wine Merchant, Le Du Wines, Best Cellers, Crush and to name a few here in New York City. (There are many on the West Coast--Kermit Lynch included). I don't know what the shipping laws are in Texas --but you should try the internet. You can also contact the various importers--they will tell you what the availability in your area is. Often--a local wine shop will be happy to order you a case or two of many wines they do not normally carry. Sometimes teaming up with a few friends and purchasing a few cases etc..... Many wines from smaller producers are not made in huge quantities so you may have trouble finding specific wines. Where there's a will there's a way!!!!
  10. In fairness to Craig, the thought behind the original post was a good one, I think. First, as one poster notes there are no "great" wines for under twenty dollars a bottle. Using most people's criteria for "great" it would be unlikely that the term could be applied to very many wines under thirty or forty dollars these days. For the discussion at hand, let's say we are looking for the best wines available for under twenty--most would agree that there are many wines that are well made and appealing to most at this price point. Second, to make a good wine that will sell for under twenty dollars means that economics comes into play. While the French are up against the costs added to imports in this country (and other countries to which they would export their wines) so too domestic wine makers are up against the high cost of real estate and the overhead to establish a wine making operation. To simplify, it is not easy to make a "hand crafted" artisinal wine anywhere in the world and sell it for under twenty dollars--anywhere. As for generalizations. There are a lot of well made wines available for under twenty dollars from many places around the world in many styles. Beyond this, one gets onto shaky ground. Whether or not one prefers a Sancerre to a sauvignon blanc from New Zealand dep-ends upon the specific wines in question and the person making the judgment. To suggest that the Sancerre is a better wine than the S.B. simply because it is from Sancerre is dependent upon how much one prizes the source of a wine as indicative of its quality. So too, lumping all New Zealand SB's into one qualitative category for the purpose of comparing it or worse, denigrating the wines, is no more valid than making an assertion that all Sancerres are better simply because they come from a certain place. To say that Australian wines should be lumped together as the same syrupy wines with differing labels doesn't IMOP, help the advocacy of French wines of any provenance. I agree with Craig that there are many interesting wine values from France. he notes a number of importers one can turn to in search of some of these wines, a great idea. Beyond this, I can not agree. The original post takes a political tack using notions of terroir and the AOC system to elevate these wines. I would argue that these wines need to stand on their own in the market place for what they deliver to consumers faced with an ever increasing array of wines from many varietals and places around the world. I would simply recommend that folks try the wines Craig notes-especially from the importers listed-- because most of them are well made and quite good and worthy of any wine drinker's attention. Not because they are markedly better than wines from other places. Worse, I would not put down other wines in service of my case. To use flawed concepts or rating/classification systems also invites debate and detracts from the fact that a well made Loire Red or white or a Cotes Du Rhone can be a pleasure to drink--and pretty inexpensive! Why should one not be able to enjoy an Australian Shiraz and a French wine for what they offer in the glass rather than how they conform to one side of a debate or another. Old World/New World--how about One World!
  11. Nice site! I notice one featured wine on the current page is the O'Reillys" Chardonnay from Oregon. also lots of New World wines recommended (not many French) Really, I think pointing up some nice wines at good value is a great idea. Introducing folks to wines from the Languedoc and the Loire is definitely a good idea. The hyperbole is really over the top though and you don't need to slag the competition. One problem worth noting though is the reason there is so much press over the 2005 Bordeaux vintage is that weather is a huge factor in colder climate wines from places like the Loire. Also its not all good all the time. I have had some sancerres that would take the enamel off your teeth and some Chinons that were really rose's masquerading as hearty reds! all in all though--when things go right for the French they really do produce some incredible wines--at all price points. By the way the wines of Catherine Breton are special as of late.--good values too.
  12. That's my point. Sweeping generalizations. I am not defending the honor of new world wines.(I don't need to) I am pointing out that some people just seem to need to denigrate the perceived competition (with sweeping generalization and stereotypes) in order to promote something. They are peripheral to the issue so is the fact that the French (among others) have long sold poor wines at not value pricing based on vague concepts of place and terms like elegant. A possible reason for their difficulties in selling some wines now. I didn't originally bring this up because I do believe that Craig's mission to tout some truly fine and good value wines is a noble one. It is not what he is doing it is how he is doing it that rankles me.
  13. Why is it that one can't simply extol the many virtues of say French wine without denigrating wines from say the US or Australia or South America? Why is the world of wine divided into separate and waring camps of Old World vs New World? Why not just "one world"? The tactic often employed is to establish a lowest common denominator and utilize it to make a point. Not fair. Lumping entire wine producing nations into broad categories just doesn't work anymore. The fact is everyone has their industrial wine and their artisanal wines. Their large scale producers and their small. The styles are diverse. The truth is, the so called Old World (let's just agree it's Europe we are talking about for goodness sake) has been challenged by many emerging wine producing countries over the last fifty years or so. They are not the only kids on the block anymore. This has caused an upheaval as they attempt to hold onto their share of the market. They have been forced to look in the mirror so to speak. How they grow grapes and produce and sell wine (not just to the world but to themselves) is being reviewed. The New World has also been learning from the Europeans. The wines produced have been steadily improving due, in no small part, to many lessons learned from practices developed and honed by Europe over hundreds of years. Unfortunately, the angst, the fears and the anger on the part of Old World proponents has created an us vs them atmosphere. The new world folks are often guilty of some gloating over marketing conquests. Each can, and is, learning from the other in the quest to reach consumers. In the end, touting French wines (or anyone's wines) by only looking at the virtues at the expense of New World wines by oversimplifying and stereo typing half truths etc is IMOP a failed argument. It shouldn't be an argument at all. So the debate within France (europe) over viticulture and viniculture and marketing is a healthy and necessary one. Their interest in the New World is clear and smart--their wine makers learn here (as we learn there) working at domestic operations and they have invested in wine making here. Just as there has always been foreign investment and influence in European wine making. Oddly, I find that often the most angry and vociferous proponents of the Old World wines are New World folks (and the Brits). People who really should bone up via the Oxford Companion. So can't one talk about the good things offered in French wines without running down other countries efforts? Wouldn't it be better to discuss French wine honestly--the good and the bad with an eye toward helping consumers? Rather than--French wine is soo good and new world wine is crap! To be honest, I believe it is this attitude that turns consumers off and is a large part of the problem the French face in marketing and selling their wines today. They will wrestle with their AOC system and change or improve it--the very fact that one is often recommended to look for the importers name as a guideline indicates a real problem with the AOC system. I believe the French will work it out! There are many fine wines coming over here from, say, the Languedoc and people should try them they have enough nice attributes to stand on their own. selling them based on the fact that they are not Yellowtail is a pretty weak argument. I know I don't buy it!
  14. I always thought CC was good but vastly over rated. Too cloyingly sweet. DD, to me has a better range of types of donut with the better executed one's much more subtle and balanced than any offered at CC.
  15. It sounds like you must be a friend of Sirio ← No such luck! This does raise an important issue though. That of one's dining expectations. First--restaurants do thrive on regular business. FG does a nice job in his book explaining this. Sirio is noted for his cultivation of and care for his regulars. Second--the "buzz" about Sirio says that if his restaurant doesn't recognize you --you will not get optimum service etc. (this has been promulgated by various reviewers and notably, Ruth Reichl). I believe that many people enter these restaurants cognicent of this buzz. (almost looking for trouble so to speak). I also believe that a lot of people go unaware that the customer is really in far greater control of their dining experience than they realize and allow restaurants to run roughshod over them. That said, the question really is what is the acceptable level of service and food for these places regardless of the notoriety of the diner? It is certainly logical to assume that regulars will get special treatment. (true of any establishment). I ate at Le Cirque only once with people who were good "friends" of Sirio. I can say that the level of service was over the top: a table in the middle of the room--truffles personally shaved over my pasta (by Sirio) wine appeared seemingly out of nowhere etc etc etc. Someone sitting at a less prominent table and getting only good basic service might look at all the fooferaw and feel slighted or less than worthy. Frankly, a more quiet table in the corner and less fawning would have been my preference. Being the center of attention is tiring! The original Le Cirque was in large part akin to a dining club. I will also say that if any major restaurant in NYC "knows" you-there will be perqs! My wife and I get the treatment at our local Italian place because we are regulars. FG is on to something!!! So, if a savvy diner goes to Le Cirque (or anywhere) and does not accept a table that is clearly inferior and demands good service etc, nine times out of ten at nine places out of ten the customer will be fine. If that customer goes expecting trouble more often than not, they will find it. That same customer may also, given the "buzz", tend to see a slight or poor service where, in fact, there is none. That said, the wine fiasco beefchecks experienced was unacceptable anywhere. I also believe that this alone would cause one to view the restaurant with a jaundiced eye. I totally disagree with his opening paragraph: "everybody knows...." If everybody does indeed know and this is true--then one would assume logically, that everybody who visits the restaurant is either a masochist or stupid. I believe that beefcheeks had a bad experience at Circo and that the behavior of the restaurant as described was unacceptable. A letter to the owners would certainly be in order. As I noted, I have dined a number of times at Circo--they do not know me from a hole in the wall--and I have had good service (at least a level which one would expect) and good food. In fact the last time my guests and I were seated a table away from Martha Stewart and her party and I saw no difference in the level of service between the two tables. Our waiters were friendly and helpful in discussing the wine list as well as the food. As for Le Cirque, as I noted, I only dined there once. I do believe that the "buzz" or conventional wisdom regarding Le Cirque has probably carried over to Circo. Thus every lapse or perceived slight is seen as" Ah Ha! It those nefarious celebrity worshiping Maccioni's at work again! The Reichl double review was brilliant but has a great flaw. It merely points up what any savvy diner knows--unfortunately, there are many restaurants that fawn over regulars (and the rich and famous) which is no big deal; but many tend to slight unknown diners, which is a big deal. Ms Reichl had a point to make and she became a passive diner. Unfortunately, a passive diner will get run over in far too many restaurants in NYC. The gruff staff at places like the Palm are a good example. New York City is loaded with these joints--haute and non haute, expensive and cheap etc! It is almost as if many restaurants here force one to pass a test and prove their worthiness to dine there.. Dining well in New York City (and a few other places) can be a challenge--it shouldn't be-- but this is a fact of life in the big city. A diner often needs to be willing and able to demand good service and to establish their own dining credentials at many places. Again, FG handles these issues very well in his book.
  16. JohnL

    White Rioja

    I like white Rioja as well. At the moment they are not producing any wines that could be called "great" IMOP, rather viticulture and viniculture advancements have allowed for some very nice white wines from Rioja on the market today. I particularly like the version from Muga (they make some terrific reds as well). I believe that the only three grapes allowed by the consejo regulador in white Rioja are Viura, Malvasia and Garnacha Blanca. (though some international varietals are appearing).
  17. I have eaten at Circo several times over the past two or three years and have always had good service and good food.
  18. Doc I think we are basically in agreement. What you refer to as "discrepancies" are often a result of head counting. These discrepancies are often (far too often) attributed to "racism." What is really required in these instances, is a more thoughtful and detailed review/analysis wherein one most often finds that "racism" is either a non factor or a small part of the picture. IMOP, racism has become devalued by irresponsible and over use. It has become an easy blanket indictment for those with an ax to grind and an excuse for those who use it to provide cover for other problems. My concerns with this thread are mainly that the Samuelson article is anything but an indictment. It is actually, a very well informed and intelligent look at the food industry and minorities whose intent is to focus everyone, specifically African Americans (but also people of all races) on some very positive attributes of an industry that Mr Samuelson believes is a worthy career. It is also a reminder/homage of and to the pioneering people of color who should be honored and learned from and it is a reminder to take note of the many present day industry leaders and a call for African Americans to follow in their footsteps. This has led to some people taking off on a tangent, attempting to discuss racism in the food industry. Fair enough. However, these folks seem only able to resort to reciting numbers/head counts in the face of overwhelming evidence to the contrary. Yes, carve up the food industry and we will find some racism in there somewhere. We will also find elitism, and class and sexism, and cronyism and any number of other isms. I would posit that these are not the result of racism but rather the system by which one rises to become a candidate for head chef--the European model--apprentice system not racial hatred. The fact that this system has been greatly modified--indeed the whole notion of haute cuisine has evolved--tend to eliminate the reasons many different people of all races either did not select this career path or had difficulty entering and succeeding in the system. The truth is that Blacks and other people of color are succeeding greatly in the food industry. I agree with the piece that the media is lagging in getting the word out (the media always lags in reflecting cultural advances) but this is not due to a "racist" media IMOP. To his credit Samuelson is certainly doing his part to change this.
  19. This whole thread is pretty much way off target. IMOP! I just got back from a news stand where I actually bought a copy of Ebony and read the article. (by the way, a very interesting publication worth reading by all) My guess is few (if any) who responded to Sandy's initial post did the same. The title of the piece is "CELEBRATING BLACK CULINARIANS--a tribute to legendary chefs and a road map for prospective food preparers." It is decidedly upbeat and interesting. It is not an indictment of the food industry at any level rather Samuelson provides some perspective celebrating some black chefs and ruminating on the present state of affairs. One, whom Samuelson turns to for perspective is Marvin Woods who provides the only real criticism in the piece. Mr Woods looks at the media as a culprit, singling out the Food Network. He points out that "the media do not give people of color play. we're out there..." He proceeds to name many prominent people of color in key positions in the food industry. I would argue with his rather cavalier statement that "racism" is at play,. He is a chef, author and TV personality and I suspect his cry of "racism" is a bit too pat and potentially a result of some sour grapes. But more importantly, to this thread, no one in the piece, including Mr Woods asserts that the food industry, at any level is "racist." In fact, after reading the article, one comes away impressed with the lofty positions and accomplishments so many people of color have made to date. Also important are Mr Samuelson's conclusions, among them: "as people of color our next challenge is to own diverse kinds of restaurants" How? Travel, gain exposure to different cultures and their food, education, formal training, learn other languages. Mr Woods adds: "get a good foundation...and that means you're not going to get a lot of money right off. In this industry your skills are as important as book skills. If you can't afford culinary school, entrench yourself with a top chef. Put your time in, pay yur dues. No matter how high you go, you're a cook first, every day that's the skill, the craft you work on." The piece ends with the importance of families on a young person, in gaining a love of food and cooking. So unless everyone is reading this well written article completely differently than I, all this debate over cultural stereo types and criticism of one's credentials to write a cook book of African cuisine, is coming out of left field--everyone has an ax to grind. By the way, Americans can't accept a black person in a leadership role? Not only does the piece refute that notion for the food industry but I would add--Condi Rice, Ron Brown, DeVal Patrick and Colin Powell, Thurgood Marshall and myriad mayors--liberal, conservative, Democrat, Republican and on and on. My take? I think that Samuelson makes a great case for the accomplishments of many many African Americans in the food industry. Mr Woods has a point in that the main problem is we don't hear enough about these people in the media. I would argue his pat answer that this is due to "racism" on the part of the media--it is IMOP a lot more complex than that. To pat an answer/scapegoat and please, the Food Network? far, far too easy a target. So there is room for an interesting discussion here. I don't believe it should center around something the article actually refutes (the food industry as racist). There's the media issue raised by Mr Woods and mostly there are the wonderful anecdotes and thumbnails on some amazing people and their accomplishments. I also do not think this is about Haute Cuisine which is, by its very nature, exclusive (guess what, most white folks don't eat at Le Bernardin). It isn't about money or class--the article makes it clear that there are many diverse paths into the industry. It is, however a call for more black role models and for more African American young people to learn about food and the pioneers that have led the way. Not much to argue with there--IMOP (of course). Finally, I googled Cafe Nicholson and Edna Lewis sparked by the piece and learned that Johnny Nicholson (son of Rumanian and Greek immigrants) from St Louis came to New York to be a fashion designer, was spurned by most places because he didn't graduate Parson's School of Design, persevered and got a job--as a window dresser at Lord and Taylor failed at it--opened an antiques shop--was inspired by a trip to Rome and Cafe Greco there and came back and injtended to open a similar cafe. Edna Lewis came in to take a job as a domestic there and remarked that the place would make a nice restaurant--Mr Nicholson agreed and on the spot made her chef and half partner! Only in America kids only.... (the whole story is in the New York Times March 1982 "An Innovator in Cafe decor and Food"--just google Cafe Nicholson New York History. sorry but I can't link it here.)
  20. You are not alone. I have been to several TJ's and I simply fail to see what many others seem to see. I have even read through this thread in hope of finding the secret from TJ devotees. The fact is, by any sane and rational standards the enthusiasm some have is simply out of whack with the chain. I can only surmise that the best product TJ's sells is "cool aide" and a lot of people have sampled it. I believe that TJ's has mastered the art of the store brand. They have managed to find straw sewing boxes and sell them as "bamboo steamers" , cheap run of the mill cutlery become "Ginsu Knives" and so on.... They have convinced people that their items (which run from the mundane to the bizarre) are unique, high quality foods specially selected through their magical process and offered at low prices to a waiting public. I have yet to be convinced that their selection process is any different from that of any conscientious food retailer. I am also unconvinced that the quality of their products is any better than that of most other store or generic brand stuff. Most of what they sell is not so special--breads, produce and dairy products as well as meats and poultry etc. These items are either the same as sold elsewhere (Niman Ranch, milk eggs and butter, salami) or it is generic brand (TJ's has a cute way of labeling things like olive oil "Trader Giotto" etc) that range in quality from poor to ok. I bought an especially awful chicken--with all sorts of "Natural" "free range" labels on it. (they know what turns their target market on). Basically, TJ's selection is comprised of those items one can get elsewhere which fall into two categories: branded items one can get elsewhere and the generic stuff--with the often cute TJ's labels that is IMOP no better than house brands or generic items of other stores and supermarkets. Really, generic olive oil is what it is--is Trader Giottos noticeably better quality than the stuff found all over town under various labels? Many items like their salsas are really not that good--most are watery and insipid. Prices. TJ's has found a successful marketing ploy here. Yes the prices of their generic TJ's branded stuff is priced well. They are basically using Wal Marts strategy and technique here by squeezing producers etc. So they are selling decent store branded olive oil at prices closer to what that oil is probably worth-at least they have convinced many they are. But the real artful marketing comes in the shelves of snack foods, nuts, candy bars crackers, frozen confections etc etc etc TJ has taken the concept used by most supermarkets in putting some things people don't need, you know the stuff within arm['s reach of the check out counters that we didn't originally come into the store for--and filled isles with it. TJ's has actually become a destination selling a lot of things people didn't know they wanted (let alone needed). In fact, they have reversed the process! People now flock there for inane items like candied pop corn and peach melba whatever and while they are there maybe pick up a quart of milk or some eggs. They put a gimmicky store brand label on run of the mill generic stuff convince consumers that it is higher quality than it really is and sell it for----a "bargain" price when in reality they are selling the stuff for what it probably is really worth to begin with! Now I am not particularly against TJ's. I do shop them once in a while. I marvel at their marketing acumen and they do seem to have low prices. Actually, their prices are more in line with the quality than what is offered at some other markets. (folks all the hoopla over two buck Chuck--well the wine is really worth the two buck! It is just that other mediocre wine is so over priced....). At TJ's I really believe you get what you pay for. (and that ain't a bad thing). But let's not go overboard and imbue them with attributes they don't have. Sure the Hawiian shirts and folksy, quirky atmosphere are cute, but this is part of a huge multi national conglomerate. (those cheap pistachio nuts should be inexpensive with the buying power these folks have-- but in the end they are just everyday nuts at a fairer price--of course if one buys into the "we've scoured the globe in search of the finest nuts....." schtick then that price is not just fair, it's downright amazing!!!). Finally, I think I got it--Trader Joe's is a "Bizzarro Fairway!"
  21. Exactly what I mean when I wrote about "indirect" racism. Echoing Bethala, well put, indeed. ← You can stretch the terms all you want. The fact is no one here at least, has even made a modest case that any African American (or anyone from any cultural background) who desires to become a chef can not do so, by any number of avenues. In fact, most of the evidence is to the contrary. Unfortunately, racism is a human trait--there is not a culture on earth that is totally free of it. If you want to say that traditions can and have been exclusionary, I will agree. The great mistake is looking at life in terms of numbers and making assumptions without any understanding of what is really at play. There is often a story behind the numbers that can not be boiled down to "racism." "Indirect racism"--sounds a lot like a "little pregnant." The apprentice systems from Europe are where much of the training and work systems operative here are based upon. They have clearly been improved upon here over the years. Now one needs the education and the drive to succeed in most businesses (and the talent). One does not, for the most part, need a family connection to get training to be a plumber or whatever.
  22. JohnL

    Going Pro

    There are two distinct issues here: 1--knowledge 2--certification knowledge can be gained by reading, personal experience etc. certification indicates to others that you have a certain level of knowledge In England, I believe an advanced level certificate is required to sell wine (I may be wrong about this). Here in the US nothing is required to enter into the wine business. Obviously, one must have knowledge or one will fail. (no different from any business). I am noticing that more and more retailers and wholesaler, importers, restaurants are sending employees to wine education programs. I have also noticed more job opening requirements include a certificate from WSET or the Court of Sommeliers program. If you merely want to write about wine then the obvious question is -what do you have to say? Also, the WSET program does cover most of the wine world (California etc)--one has to get to the advanced level certificate program at the least. One key area a course helps is in learning to taste wine and to write professional quality notes. There is also extensive knowledge of how grapes are grown and wine is made. I would say that most people I know who are very serious about wine who do not make a living in wine read a tremendous amount of wine literature and attend formal and informal tastings. many travel to wine making countries regularly. Some avail themselves of a formal education and some do not. Just as many writers working professionally, come out of writing programs there are those who do not. All this depends upon what works for you.
  23. Robyn First--there are traditions. Every industry has them. traditions are usually evolving and changing as times change. You may want to use "racist" and "sexist" to describe some of these I prefer to reserve those very serious terms to situations warranting them. I believe we tend to devalue them. Traditionally, cooking was "women's work" in the home and haute cuisine was a man's world. Med didn't cook at home and women didn't work in high end restaurants. Society changes and there are pioneers and traditions fall.. (new one's are established). African Americans are no different than caucasian peoples or Hispanics--those Mexicans who work in kitchens more like Guatamlan's or Cubans who come from similar impoverished backgrounds than they are like wealthy Mexicans who have university (here or there) degrees and live in expensive apartments or homes in the suburbs. Samuelson is making this point when he notes that African Americans are not about just "soul food" (or any particular cuisine) and as they experience different levels of success and education and are exposed to different cuisines more will become interested in pursuing careers in food and restaurants etc. that's all. Seems as though he is correct if one notes the posters who have indicated more and more African Americans are enrolling in cooking schools.
  24. i was actually referring to JohnL's statement, "Things are getting better all the time!", which, to his defense, i must say he posted as a statement - a true statement at that - rather than as a question. ← It is people who see everything in simplistic terms, those who look at numbers and attribute racism as the reason, who I am addressing. Things have "gotten better" to the point that one needs to look at a lot more than racism to attempt to explain a lot of these issues. Sure racism exists, it will always exist, it exists in all societies and among all peoples. That said we can deal with institutional racism via laws and knowledge etc. I would be comfortable with the notion that the restaurant industry is not racist. I would also believe that professions attract people who possess those attributes required to work successfully in that business. Obese people are not likely to be wooed by the cliff diving business not thin people by the sumo wrestling industry. I would say that an overweight cliff diver who could master the job would probably be highly celebrated! Same for a hundred eighty pound sumo wrestler who could best his opponents. Restaurant work is hard labor--as many in the business are often reminding us here at eGullett. As a rule, it has not been particularly glamorous nor profitable compared to myriad other industries. Hence, it makes sense to assume that this is a case of an ethnic group not embracing an industry (rather than other way round). But again, as one poster noted, the increased attendance by African Americans at cooking schools indicates--things are truly "getting better." Again, is the fact that though there seems to be an abundance of line cooks of Mexican origin here in New York kitchens would one looking at the dearth of mexican Americans on the Food Network hosting cooking shows indicate that the FN is racist? Or that because there are few executive chefs of Mexican American origin running kitchens mean the restaurants here in NY are racist? Is it more likely that the answer lies in the fact that these line cooks are mostly from poor backgrounds and do not have the education the mastery of English the business acumen etc to run a restaurant or host a TV show! It is more likely that as more and more of these poor people obtain the skills we will see more achieving success and appearing on TV. Douglas Rodriguez et al will be joined by others. It is also a fact that as people gain more and more education they increase their options as to various industries they would enter and work in and the likelihood they will succeed in that industry. Thus, the restaurant industry is in competition with many others for the "best and brightest." I firmly believe that as people like Samuelson and Alice Waters (the impact of her work with inner city kids has yet to be really felt) multiply---along with many other factors (remember things are getting better overall) the pool of potential talent increases--young people will become engaged about food etc and may be interested in a career some time later. Haute cuisine is at the end of a funnel--few get through to be leaders, owners, trend setters and media figures. Right now, I just don't see a screen placed over the opening to the funnel keeping anyone out for any reason.
  25. JohnL

    Going Pro

    I am also in the process of a second career in wine! For about twenty five years, I worked in advertising and marketing and two years ago, I decided to pursue my passion for wine professionally. I would recommend that you take a long hard look at where you are in terms of wine knowledge right now. This is more about positioning yourself to do what you love than obtaining some sort of "certification." There are successful people in all phases of the wine business with all sorts of backgrounds. There currently are no specific certifications required to get into the wine business. Robert Parker was an attorney who merely tasted lots of wine and started a newsletter. he has, I believe no formal training or certification. Some retail and wholesale entities do require some formal training and certification from either the WSET or the Sommeliers Society. I do see an increase in the importance of some formal certification here in the US. I decided that though I had a considerable amount of knowledge about wine --gained on my own--I wanted something more formal. After some considerable investigation, I settled upon the WSET. I gained an advanced certificate in Wine and Spirits studies and am now enrolled in the Diploma Program. I also obtained a position in a local wine shop as a sales consultant. This provides both an opportunity to increase my knowledge through exposure to the wholesale and retail trade as well as wine makers, hone my skills through selling wine to consumers and gain further credentials in wine and I am tasting professionally now on a regular basis which is quite different from tasting purely for pleasure. The WSET course as noted by Daniel Rogov is quite intensive--it is offered in many locations including the Pacific Northwest. I am taking it at the International Wine Center here in New York City. It is also the course leading to study for the Master of Wine certification. You will need to determine what level course you can start with (the IWC web site has a self test) beginner or intermediate or advanced. (one must complete and pass the test for the advanced course before going on to the Diploma level). In total, the advanced and diploma courses take about three years to complete and home study for those not near a teaching center is available. I would strongly recommend that one attend classes. Good luck! Thus far I have greatly enjoyed learning and working!!! There's nothing like loving and having a passion for that at which you make your living.
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