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Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Digest and 96 Hours section, Friday, October 27, 2006 North stars: Washington wines reach for the stratosphere, Jon Bonné A new face in Wine The Tasting Room: A pleasant place to idle, Tara Duggan THE SIPPING NEWS: The Great Pumpkin Batch Here lie old vines Tricks and treats from the bar The Cocktailian: Voodoo Priestess puts a spell in a glass, Gary Regan Recipe:The Voodoo Priestess Adapted from a recipe by Thayer Lund of Forbidden Island, Alameda. Uncorked: Ted Allen, 'Queer Eye' for a wine guy, W. Blake Gray Pairings: A steak sauce worthy of Syrah, Joyce Goldstein Recipe: Grilled Steak with a Sauce of Cognac, Raisins & Black Pepper The Chronicle's Wine Selections: Columbia Valley Syrahs, Lynne Char Bennett The Cheese Course: Duet of milk produces a fresh robiola with a lush personality, Janet Fletcher Bargain Wines: Fine wines to please Elves, Dwarves and Men, W. Blake Gray Letters to Wine: 96 Hours Bar Bites: Lime, Dabney Gough Bargain Bite: Green Chile Kitchen, Jane Tunks CRITICS' PICKS: Bunches of brunches, Bill Addison "Brunch, more than weekday lunch and dinner, is a meal dictated by moods and predilections. A languid midday meal on Sunday (or sometimes Saturday) means you get to cave in to your culinary cravings."

Speaking of Aviation Gin, I've been meaning to give it a try. Since it is supposed to be Dutch in style, I thought the thing to do would be to try it in Mr. Wondrich's Improved Holland Gin Cock-tail. Fortunately, the bartender at The Alembic (flash heavy site) was not too busy early this evening, and tolerated my whimsy. I used the "Super-Improved" receipt from the NY Times article... --- IMPROVED HOLLAND GIN COCKTAIL Adapted from David Wondrich 2 dashes Angostura bitters 1 scant teaspoon simple syrup* 1/2 teaspoon Maraschino Luxardo liqueur. 1 dash absinthe, or substitutes like Pernod or Absente 2 ounces Holland gin (also called genever gin; Zuidam is a good brand) 1 thinly cut lemon twist. Combine the liquid ingredients in a cocktail shaker with ice. Shake well (or stir) and strain into a chilled martini glass. Twist the swatch of lemon peel over the top, rub it around the rim of the glass, and drop it in. --- In any case, the Aviation Gin makes this a very floral, almost perfumey, cocktail. It rated a, "Wow, I'm going to have that for my shift cocktail," from the bartender. Very different from the same cocktail with Boomsma gin. I'm still not sure I got a handle on Aviation Gin as a product. I may have to try that spicy Martini Cole Danehower mentions.

I didn't know about this until recently; but, Hog Island have a happy hour deal from 5-7 on Tuesdays and Thursdays. I don't know if it is the same every happy hour. Last night, all pints of beer were $3.50 and they offered the Hog Island Sweetwater oysters for $1 each. Good stuff! The line can be long, though, so try to get there early. And North Coast's Pranqster in pints is a bit dangerous...

By the way, (meant to post this a while ago,) I see in "The Official Mixer's Manual" Patrick Duffy includes Apricot Brandy in his Aviation recipe, along with the Maraschino. It's also in one of the cocktaildb formulations (probably transcribed from Duffy).

Some of the farmers' market vendors here carry buckwheat honey. But, I think that the California buckwheat used to for that honey are a different plant (Eriogonum species) from the annual used to produce buckwheat flour (Fagopyrum esculentum).

Check this recipe for Agua de Jamaica (hibiscus punch) from Rick Bayless. Bayless Agua de Jamaica Making a big batch, spiking it with lime, sugar, and tequila would be pretty easy and very red. To make a jamaican version (sorrell punch), also add cinnamon, allspice and ginger. Spike with rum (preferably Wray & Nephew overproof). Watch out for Damballah. edit - BTW, if you can get Hibiscus flowers in bulk at a latin (jamaican?) grocery or health food store, it will be way cheaper than buying all that pomegranate juice, and pound for pound, just as tasty.

Vic's Mai Tais are just Rum, Lime, Orgeat, Curacao, and simple. Trader Vic's Mai Tai Recipes Though, he is using Mai Tai mix, Rum, and lime over ice for the Mai Tai and the Suffering Bastard!?

Moderator's note: I've split this topic off from the Cocktail Books topic. -- CA I'm currently working on a writeup of the fine The Art of the Bar by Jeff Hollinger and Rob Schwartz. Definitely one of the nicest looking cocktail books I've got in the house, and written from the bartender/bar manager's point of view.

I saw Classic Cocktails at a bookstore today. As far as I can tell, the only change from the original printing is the cover.

My wife and I had a wonderful time at Manresa on Saturday. I excused myself from taking copious notes, since it was a special occasion; but, I will try to post some more thoughts once I get them organized. The amazing tasting menu and deft, eclectic wine pairings, put Manresa in the running for our top 5 all-time restaurant experiences. The Corn "Soup" amuse was definitely one of the best things I've had in a restaurant this year. The Toll House was also a nice place to stay. Really nice sheets and pillows! And Castle Rock State Park was astonishingly beautiful on such a crisp autumn day.

Couldn't really find a more appropriate thread to post this; but, I thought it was amusing to see that sherry cocktails were being served at a New York restaurant. Rejiggered, Jonathan Miles Duke of Bedford Published: October 22, 2006 Adapted from the Little Owl 3oz. Dry Sack sherry 6mint leaves, crushed 1oz. San Pellegrino Aranciata or orange soda 1tsp. sugar Dash of Angostura bitters Mint sprig and cucumber slice, for garnish Fill a rocks glass with crushed ice. In a cocktail shaker, muddle the sherry and mint, then add the Aranciata, sugar and bitters and shake well. Strain over the ice and garnish with the mint and cucumber. Yield: 1 serving

This version was pretty darn tasty. Only took me a year and a half to come up with a decent one. Seems like I poached at least part of this idea from some bar or restaurant I've eaten at in the last year. Custom House in Chicago, maybe? In any case, this is a fine refreshing cider cocktail for Indian Summer. Cider Cocktail for 2 -or- Tra La La Turns 16 1/2 inch peeled ginger root thinly sliced 1/4 lemon 2 teaspoon rich simple syrup 2 oz Apple Brandy (laird's bonded) lemon peel Dry French Style Cider (Eric Bordelet Poire Authentique Cider) Muddle ginger root, lemon, and simple syrup in a cocktail shaker. Add Apple Brandy, ice and shake to chill. Strain (recommend double straining to catch any stray ginger bits) into 2 champagne flutes. Twist (flame if you're up for it) lemon peel over the top and drop in. Top with dry, french style pear or apple cider. edit - forgot my wife came up with a name for this cocktail.

Speaking of Pellegrino, what's the Chinotto soda? Any cocktail use? I was also wondering about the Sanbitter.

Katie, You might have to balance them a little differently. The bonded straight apple brandy is a cleaner and more intensely apple flavored spirit. Plus it is 100 proof. The blended Apple Jack strikes me as half way between an apple brandy and a mild blended whiskey. Before I made my own grenadine and had the bonded, I used commercial grenadine and went through a bottle of the blended apple jack on various cocktails. The Jack Roses, especially, just never really grabbed me as a great cocktail. With the bonded apple brandy and home made grenadine, the Apple Jack (Special) is a really vibrant and tasty cocktail. How much of that is the home made grenadine and how much is the bonded apple brandy, I'm not sure.

Digest: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Digest and 96 Hours section, Friday, October 21, 2006 Getting wine in sip shape: Splendor in the glass: Different designs bring out the best in different varietals, Richard Carleton Hacker THE SIPPING NEWS: BIG IN JAPAN / Artisanal shochu finds a forum in San Francisco Cork control CHEESY, CRISPY AND CURVY Students of wine can put a hefty addition on their wish list. Catch up with San Francisco 49ers great Dwight Clark The Harvest Report: Cabernet Sauvignon season kicks off, W. Blake Gray The Tasting Room: Silver Oak Cellars, W. Blake Gray Bargain Wines: Whimsical wines that ask you to take them home, Leslie Sbrocco Spirits: Tequila's rural cousin gussies up, W. Blake Gray Wine Business Insider: Copia cuts a third of staff, Cyril Penn Pairings: Brussels sprouts, duck confit conjure fall flavors for Pinot Noir, Lynne Char Bennett Recipe: Brussels Sprouts & Mushrooms with Duck Confit The Chronicle's Wine Selections: Oregon Pinot Noir, Lynne Char Bennett The Cheese Course: Virginia dairy learns from Europe, Janet Fletcher 96 Hours Bar Bites: La Bodeguita del Medio, Mandy Erickson Bargain Bite: Pork Store Cafe, Bill Addison CRITICS' PICKS: Haight Street, Bill Addison "We're bonkers for the Tuesday-only hamburgers at Rosamunde Sausage Grill, but the Haight offers a wealth of other diverse dining options as well, including the following:"

Apple Pie Cocktail 1/2 Bacardi Rum (1 1/2 oz Flor de Cana White Rum) 1/2 Italian Vermouth (1 1/2 oz Cinzano Rosso) 4 Dashes Apricot Brandy (2 bar spoons Vedrenne liqueur de abricot) 2 Dashes Grenadine (1 bar spoon home made Grenadine) 4 Dashes Lemon Juice (Juice 1/4 lemon) Shake well and strain into cocktail glass Ack, my first case of serious boston shaker vapor lock. It was a long bus ride home, I was tense. I took a breath and knocked it and it came loose without damaging the glass. Whew. It did end up a bit more diluted than I would have liked. Nice cocktail, all the same. Oh, IMHO, this one could go either way shaking or straining.

Actually, egg white would be a pretty good thing in the "Apple Jack (Special)". It's got enough intensity and sourness, that it would be quite tasty. "Apple Jack (Extra Special)"? Apple Jack (Silver Special)"? Apple Jack Rabbit Cocktail 1 Hooker of Applejack (1 1/2 oz Laird's Bonded Apple Brandy) The Juice of 1 Lemon (Juice 3/4 Lemon) The Juice of 1 Orange (Juice 1/2 navel orange) 1 Hooker of Maple Syrup (1/2 oz Maple Syrup) Shake well and strain into a cocktail glass As far as I can tell from the recipes in the Savoy, "hooker" refers to a small-ish shot glass. Maybe 1 or 1 1/2 oz. I ended up balancing this cocktail to my taste based on what modern ingredients I had on hand and what might appeal to me. It might not be what the recipe intended; but, I couldn't face drinking a whole ounce of maple syrup without a decent cocktail to back it up.

Yeah, you have to be careful of the bottled Yuzu. Much of it is salted. Intended, I guess, solely for savory cooking (ponzu, etc.). I made the same mistake. I've hear there are some brands which are not salted.

Sean, If the silver plating is coming off, I think the only thing to fix it would be to get it replated. BTW, is it silver (it may say EPNS on the bottom) or chrome plated? Silver plate will tarnish and has a less bright sheen than chrome. If it's chrome plated, you definitely don't want to ingest much of that stuff. re: size. Going through early 20th century cocktail books like The Savoy and Duffy, you often find cocktail recipes "for 6". I would assume this is the sort of shaker/pitcher you would want for those "party" type cocktails.

Apple Jack (Special) Cocktail 2/3 Applejack (2 oz Laird's Bonded Apple Jack) 1/6 Grenadine (1/2 oz homemade Grenadine) 1/6 Lemon Juice (1/2 oz Lemon Juice) Shake well and strain into cocktail glass Within free pour error of the nominally drier Jack Rose (in the Savoy the Jack Rose is: Juice of 1/2 lemon or whole lime, 1/4 Grenadine, 3/4 Apple Jack). Tasty stuff. Homemade Grenadine, fresh lemon juice, and the Bonded Apple Jack make a world of difference in this cocktail. Yum.

Apple Jack Cocktail 1 Dash Angustura Bitters 1/2 Italian Vermouth (1 1/2 oz Cinzano Rosso) 1/2 Calvados (1 1/2 oz Laird's Bonded Apple Jack) Shake (stir - eje) well and strain into cocktail glass. This was quite nice. You'd probably have to order it as an "Apple Jack Manhattan" to get it at a bar. If you like Manhattans, it's a good change of pace from the usual Rye or Bourbon.

Apple Cocktail (for 6) Take 2 glasses of sweet Cider (2 oz Martinelli's Cider), 1 Glass Gin (1 oz. Beefeater's), 1 Glass of Brandy (1 oz Korbel VSOP) and 2 glasses of Calvados (2 oz Laird's Bonded Apple Jack). Shake and serve (Garnish with thin horizontal slices of tart green apple.) Recommend going with a cider with a little more spine than the martinelli's. If you have to use a mild apple juice style cider, a dash of lemon wouldn't hurt. Caveat: Over enthusiastic consumption of this potent pomme potation may result in tawdry, if not downright original, sin. edit - By the way, I regretted shaking this one, as the foam then covered my apple slices. Recommend stirring, if you use a similar garnish, especially with a clear apple cider.

sigh... Twice in one day, George, keeping me honest. I do think it is a worthwhile purchase, especially for $7 US, if just for the pictures and whatever history might be gleaned by an educated reader. For my last comment, I was going to phrase it, "Certainly a worthwhile, if not essential, addition to a cocktail library." Then, for some reason, I took the "if not essential" part out. Call me a coward.

Meeta has posted the roundup of Mixology Monday posts on What's for Lunch Honey?

I have an earlier edition. It's a good book. It has lots of great pictures and reproductions of cocktail related advertisements, cartoons, photographs and art. From what I can gather on Webtender and the drinkboy forums, Calabrese is held in very high esteem, especially by European bartenders. My impression is he was one of the original proponents of the very dry martini (mere drops of vermouth). It has a modest section of classic cocktails with most of the essentials. Nothing particularly surprising. Good instructions though, and many are represented with photographs showing the appropriate glassware and very nice garnishes. My only disappointment is there aren't more cocktails in the section of his original cocktails. I think there are only 8 or 10. Certainly a worthwhile addition to any cocktail library.