donbert

I was there monday night and it wasn't crowded. I think the cold weather is keeping the scenesters away.

I too eat here too frequently to post every time but will also chime in to say that the latest incarnation of the Chawan Mushi is particularly note worthy. They've added chopped edamame to the egg and added a rich sauce of reduced red wine, beef jus, and garlic. The edamame at the bottom of the egg gives a nice textural contrast and the rich garlic sauce takes the dish to a whole new level of savory without overpowering the dashi flavor. They've also added a dry aged steak to the menu that I haven't had a chance to try yet but given how good the unaged steak was I can't wait to order it.

The LA Times ran an article on ice today. Nothing in the way of new information but nice to see that it's getting noticed outside the cocktail geek community.

Sam, I haven't had a chance to try shaking with your ice. How do they compare in size to Kold Draft cubes? Do you prefer them for surface area/dilution/aeration? (I can understand that my ice might be a bit too big/heavy for your old man arms. )

Hey Rich, Ikea used to carry ice cube trays perfect for cocktails but the last time I went looking for them they weren't there. They don't sell them online and nobody at the store in Elizabeth, NJ, could tell me if they'd be getting more. Here's what they look like: And these are the blocks you get:

JB Prince has some new spherical molds for sale. They're made from silicone to withstand heating and freezing chocolate and sugar but you could make awesome 2.5" or 4" sphere of ice. Too bad it's so exepnsive... $85 for a double 2.5" mold and $95 for a single 4" mold.

If you mean the the bamboo toothpicks that have a knot tied at the top they use at Pegu, they can be found in various kitchen supply stores in Chinatown (NYC). Not that I've ever got looking for them...

Here's a link to the where it was mentioned in the times today. themaninwhite works practically across the street. Maybe he can check it out for us today.

For a second I thought you said "Vegans" and did a double take. Anyone else going to the panel he's going to be on tonight?

Possibly easier would be a mold of the type used for casting bullets and fishing weights from lead, just two pieces that clamp together with the shape in the middle, fill with lead (or water) and cool (or freeze). ← I have seen just such a device either at Jas Mart, Sunrise, or Mitsuwa. I'll see if I can find it again. I recall not buying it because it didn't seem worth the price to make one sphere of ice at a time.

I was under the impression that there was a technique difference btween the "Japanese Hard Shake" and the way bartenders in the US are shaking drinks hard at high end cocktail estabilishments. Here are some theories/rumors I've heard so far about the this "Japanese Hard Shake": 1.) The "Hard Shake" is done useing a 3 piece shaker not a boston shaker. 2.) The "Hard Shake" is done with both hands/arms with one shaker at a time. 3.) The "Hard Shake" involves a flapping motion with the elbows (not sure why). 4.) The "Hard Shake" attempts to shake in a rolling motion that knocks the ice/liquids against 4 sides of the shaker instead of just 2. 5.) There is a Japanese DVD of the "Hard Shake" being performed with detailed explantions of each step and variations that different Japanese Bartender's have come up with. Can anyone confirm or deny these rumors? Has anyone seen this DVD? (And if so can someone send me a copy?)

I found these videos while looking for videos of the mythical "hard shake". I'm definitely going to try it, but I need to get a cheaper knife first. It looks like the bartender is using a regular stamped knife and there's no way that I'm going to mess up my good knives for this.

There were 11 of us. Things come out one or two at a time. I usually just order everything up front. The staff does a great job pacing and ordering things logically. Smaller/lighter/seafood first followed by bigger/heavier/meat later. They also bring clean plates every couple of "courses" and the necessary utensils for each "course". I think the the order of dishes last night were: Seasonal Pickles 3 types of Ham Steamed Buns Sea Urchin and Cauliflower Chawan Mushi Banh Mi Pork Short Rib and Seafood Clay pots Ribeye Bo Ssam Mochi Ice Cream

Lets not forget 3 plates of pickles and all the beer/sake. For the record it was 6 orders of pork buns, 6 orders of banh mi, 2 chawanmushi and 2 sea urchin. Also an order of mochi ice cream at the end. edit to add: if it wasn't clear all this was followed by the whole berkshire pork shoulder bo ssam...

Didn't see your post till I got back from Momofuku, otherwise I would have had one. Johnder took one home to his wife, though it may not have survived the cab ride... I have a feeling that I'll be back soon so I'll have for you next time.

Johnder and I stopped by around 10pm this evening after grabbing a couple drinks at Death and Co. They are indeed serving the full menu now starting at 6pm till 2am all week. Also the three ssam previously only served at lunch are now on the dinner menu. One of the things that never ceases to amaze me about Momofuku is that every time I go they have something new on the menu or have completely reworked existing dishes. Since last saturday night they had added 4 new dishes to the menu. Day Boat Maine Diver Sea Scallops - in dashi with pineapple and scallion oil This is the most recent incarnation of a dish I first tried with hhlodesign and Ling a few weeks ago. Previously they were using bay scallops which were much sweeter. The sea scallops and pineapple in dashi are a perfect combination of sweet, savory and salty. Maine Sea Urchin - over tapioca with whipped tofu The tofu looks like silken tofu but it is infact whipped and has an unbelievably light/airy texture. John and I thought the tapioca might have been cooked in some broth but it was actually lychee juice. Tello's Chawan Mushi - with black truffle and snails This dish was simply decadent and the best chawan mushi I've ever had. I need to meet this Tello... Veal Head Terrine Not a new dish but the first time I've ordered it. Last time I made the mistake of explaning what head cheese was before ordering and was veto'ed. This is actually one of the three terrines in the Banh Mi and from now on I might have to pass on the Banh Mi to go straight for this. (We also had the steamed buns but I didn't take a picture since I already have at least 6 photos of them from previous visits.)

Here's a teaser photo of one of the cocktails we had using the Las Amantes Joven mescal John mentioned: It was essentially a barbencourt daiquiri with a scant 1/2 oz (1/4 oz?) of the mescal. Even so, the mescal gave this drink an intense smokey flavor that was simply awesome. More photos to follow soon.

I believe they started serving the formerly known as late night menu yesterday. They had changed their automated phone message to 6pm when I called earlier today to verify before posting. Not sure about the any Wed-Sun difference, according to the website (that still lists the "late night hours") it looks like the hours are the same 7 days a week. Maybe I can convince some people to go tonight and check, in the name of science of course .

Starting this year Momofuku Ssam Bar is now offering their late night menu starting at 6pm. Now all you early sleepers can get your pork fix without staying up past your bed time. Also the last time I was there they had added a picnic butt bo ssam to their ever changing menu. It's about half the size of the full bo ssam and perfect for 4 people (or a good side dish for Daniel).

Two things to add in also suggesting Momofuku Ssam Bar. Although the setting is casual the staff are very attentive and can help you select a series of dishes to share. And the late night menu is now available starting 6pm should you want to try go before your show or some other time.

I was more intrigued by the taste of a kim chee hot dog than who was making it. Have you tried one, is it good? I'm gonna hit the asian market tomorrow for some kim chee and pick up some Hebrew Nationals. Mmmmmm! It just sounds like my kind of combination. Here's Sam "The Red Chef" Talbot's website. Looks like he closes up for the winter in Oct.

I had a great time with you two at Pegu and Momofuku. Can't wait to see how the rest of your trip was! I think Johnder and I will seriously have to come visit Seattle now.

"Gooble gobble, gooble gobble, one of us, one of us...."

Sorry for the delay in the dulce de leche results. I forgot the packet notes that decoded the numbers from the tasting the real brand names in my hurry to make the bus to Boston. I'm finally back in NYC so without further ado here are the results: Brands of Tested 1.) Eagle 2.) Iberia 3.) Le Cena 4.) Magnolia 5.) Nela 6.) (Nestle) Carnation 7.) Pathmark 8.) Star Test Setup The bottoms of each unopened can were labeled and boil, completely submerged under water, at a simmer for 2, 4, and 12 hours. Cans were in cold water to stop the cooking before opening. Each can was then randomly placed on a numbered index cards. Testers were given the choice of spoon, corn tortilla chip, pretzel, or table water crackers as tasting mediums. Testers voted for their top 3 and worst. Best 1.) Magnolia - 4 Hours 2.) Eagle - 4 Hours 3.) Pathmark - 4 Hours Worst 1.) Pathmark - 12 Hours 2.) Nela - 2 Hours 3.) Iberia, La Cena, Nela - 12 Hours Lightest to Darkest - 2 Hours 1.) Star 2.) Iberia 3.) Nela 4.) Eagle 5.) Magnolia 6.) Carnation 7.) Le Cena 8.) Pathmark Lightest to Darkest - 4 Hours 1.) Star 2.) Nela 3.) Magnolia 4.) Le Cena 5.) Eagle 6.) Pathmark 7.) Iberia 8.) Carnation Lightest to Darkest - 12 Hours 1.) Magnolia 2.) Star 3.) Nela 4.) Le Cena 5.) Pathmark 6.) Iberia 7.) Eagle 8.) Carnation Tasting Notes 2 Hour Group - In the past I have successfully boiled a single can for just over 2 hours with decent results, however with this group there they were all undercooked both in flavor, color, and consistency. This may be due to the extra time necessary to bring a group of 8 cans to temperature before they begin to cook. With every brand there was a heavy dairy flavor that wasn't present in either the 4 or 12 hour. In future experiments for more consistent results times should be measured from the point that the internal temperature of the cans reach equilibrium with the simmering water. 4 Hour Group - This group was undoubtedly the best on all points (flavor, color and consistency) from this experiment. The Carnation and Iberia brands had a hint of dairy flavor that might improve with further cooking. Magnolia and Pathmark were the only two that maintained a liquid consistency that would flow freely from a spoon. Star brand developed a slight grainy texture. No brand was unduly sweet or had a burnt flavor. 12 Hour Group - 12 hours is beyond the illogical extreme for boiling cans of sweetened condensed milk into dulce de leche and not advisable. All brands became too dark, had a burnt after taste, and were too firm. Some brands also became grainy in texture. Suggested Brands Magnolia - for use as sauce or when a more liquid consistency is desired (drizzling over desserts). Eagle - for use as a spread or when a more stable shape is desired (spooning quenelles). Supplemental Experiment Notes Having ruled out the 2 and 12 hour groups, future experiments should test within the 4-6 hour time range. For more statistical significance a larger pool of testers should be used. Due to taste from fatigue having to taste all 24 kinds of dulce de leche at once to compare/contrast, a series of binary comparisons with a large pool of testers over time may be more accurate as well. Also curious and worth future experimentation is the difference between Magnolia and Eagle labels given that they received top marks and both made by Eagle Family Foods Inc. (EFFINC). Although the response from EFFINC was that Magnolia has a sweeter profile the primary difference detected in all three testing times were color and consistency. Both have identical nutritional facts but very different results when cooked.

The results of the Dulce De Leche tasting are unfortunately going to have to wait till I get back to NYC. The winners were 14, 17, then 19 (in that order). Because we did this double blind I don't know what the brands were. They're all definitely of the 4 hour batch though.