Danielle

dweller: my previous impression of Spain (1991) is that food is to be avoided (we stuck to tapas), except in Barcelona where we liked neighborhood eateries, and especially "7 puertas" in the Gothic Quarter, where you can overdose on at least 20 different kinds of paella. We are going back at the beginning of January, and I hope someone can make suggestions for Bilbao and Barcelona: I am hoping that in 10 years food has improved. Please, advice and addresses! Danielle

I'll jump in and join the crowd of Amat's fans. We are going there for New Year's Eve (Saint-Sylvestre), they are open, and we'll stay at the inn -- we are Jean Nouvel fans too. Bux, have you stayed at Cloitre Saint-Louis in Avignon? He designed the new wing. Even the rooms in the old cloisters wing are contemporary and beautiful. The only drawback there, is the restaurant: awful! But there are enough good places for scrumptious dinners in Avignon. I'll post a couple of questions about Bilbao and Barcelona on the board where Spain is discussed, so if any of you know restaurants in either city, please go there, as a favor to me. Merci.

Peter, I love your posts too, I forgot to say that earlier. We'll be in Paris at Christmas and I'll try your restaurant suggestions: one never has too many good addresses. Bux, I use a great shuttle service and fill out their form right on the web: www.paris-anglo.com/clients/ashuttle.html They have not failed us once, either at CDG or from our Paris residence back to CDG. They confirm by email. Try them.

This is the first time I use the "quote" thing, so I don't know how it will work! We go to Paris frequently and use www.paris-anglo.com/clients/ashuttle.html. It is a terrific service, and cheap too: door to door, arriving and leaving, but you must make reservations and give your airline and flight number -- I guess they check to make sure you are on time, and while you wait for your luggage, you call them, no charge, no coins or phone cards-- you can pay the driver, or with a CC on line. They use minivans, know all of Paris, speak English for those who are foreign-tongue-tied... Anyway I love them and recommend them all the time.This is because I hope you will take many more, and frequent trips to Paris.

Wilfrid! is that a pig I see under your name? What made you select this heavenly creature?

Words often find themselves in bad connotations: words are alive with meaning and implications. Since we are all "foodies" until we graduate to a hundred posts, let's go on eating and thereafter posting. The context here is so positive and more than occasionally humorous, I bear my foodie title with pride and honor.

Every time I open this forum I laugh a lot. Pet peeves allow comic relief, we must have all experienced the same ones, and one tale of woe so often triggers another one. More and more frequently, somebody recites specials at a high rate of speed, and with or without prices, my little brain cannot remember anything so I cannot choose. Occasionally, I'll say: "and what was that dish you mentioned early on, you said something or other about cilantro?" So the detective game begins, on the server's or my part... On other occasions, I catch on to a dish which sounds scrumptious, so I make a mental effort to remember what it is, not paying attention to the rest of the recitation. I laugh to myself, but I resent the process at the same time; couldn't the chef decide on the specials, print them out and offer the list, with prices to diners? On another subject: a million years ago, dining at Lassere in Paris (in the 3-star days, when I was impressionable), I requested a bottle of Montrose. I had discovered the wine through American friends who pronounced the T, and never gave it another thought and asked for Montrose pronouncing the T; the sommelier pointedly, or so it seemed at the time, repeated saying "mon...rose": how vexing! But what else could he do? Mispronounce to spare my young ego? There is a story about Louis XIV, the Sun King, to illustrate how exquisitely courteous he was. He could greet the Versailles maids by name, and ask about their families. One day, a foreign ambassador was dining with him and the affair was rather formal; after each dish, all the guests would dip their fingers into the rince-doigt (finger bowl???) in front of them. The foreign ambassador, at the end of the meal, picked up the bowl and drank the lemony water; the king's guests started giggling and whispering. The king picked up his own bowl and drank its contents: I think this shows a great deal of class! The story is true, it may even have been Madame de Sevigne who told it in her letters... I am not sure though and I am too lazy to reread all her letters, as delightful as they are.

Margaret, you are wonderful, and you just saved lazy me a few minutes of research. Thank you very very much. Even in today's France that loves a good American idea such as a yard sale, a braderie is a rare event. Sometimes a school will do it to raise funds for a particular project, but the weekend "my backyard" kind of sale has not yet caught on. Actually, it's when I took members of my family for a tour of my area of CT that they mentioned Lille. Wouldn't it be great to go to France just to hit the braderies everywhere, what a wonderful travel theme! I can just imagine the faces of the customs officers at New York airports! One year, I brought back dozens of Dijon mustard pots in lovely hand-painted pottery jars; the customs officer's comment: "Don't you have that stuff over there in CT?"

Then Robert, you are definitely due for another visit, you won't regret it, both the city and L'Huitriere are worth a visit. Unfortunately I forgot when it takes place, probably Spring, but once a year, the entire city sponsors a "braderie", or yard sale, where everyone sells everything they no longer want. Visitors come from all over France to pick up bargains. The whole city becomes festive; I'd love to go then, although it probably takes a little planning: actually, one could spend the day there arriving from Paris in the morning (TGV or car), and go back in the afternoon, then there is no concern about hotel room.

Come on Holly, Bux, Tommy, Ruby, Jason, Jim, Mamster, Neild... Those are only words! Let's eat for heaven's sake, and I'll drive 95 miles each way for good food. Whether I am a connoisseur (someone who appreciates), an epicure (someone who only thinks about pleasure), a gourmet (someone who can appreciate refined dining and eating), a gastronome (someone who likes good food), or a gourmand (someone who eats for pleasure), it still boils down to good food, according to my taste and experience. It looks to all of us like we can be all of those when we sink our teeth and tastebuds into a hot dog, a pizza, a cassoulet or tournedos rossini (those I can spell, unlike the names of the Malaysian and Chinese dishes I love). My present fantasy is to concoct a meal, all of us would share and discuss ad nauseum. Just talking about it is not bad either.

[i remember a petite marmite in a ca. 1900 dining room. I guess it's still a tourist place, but it must be fun] Hi, Robert! What are you referring to, or what did I miss? We had dinner there in early Jan. 2001, and it was not much of a tourist place: locals mostly, except for us. Bux is right, the nortwest is not especially appealing, and Lille is on the map today mostly because of the Contemporary Museum in Villeneuve d'Asq and because it's a place where the Eurostar stops. I understand from people who knew Lille before the Eurostar and the museum that the city today is much improved.

Bux, Yes the Alliance Golden Tulip is the Alliance Couvent des Minimes. I have been to Lille only once, so I don't know how the Carlton compares with the Couvent, but I like Concorde hotels too -- the one in Nancy is especially wonderful on the Place Stanislas (Grand Hotel de la Reine). If there had been many worthwhile restaurants in northern France, we might have thought less of L'Huitriere, but we really really (not a typo or stuttering, just emphasis) liked it both for food and service, it is unpretentious. Besides, you practically go through the fish store downstairs to reach the restaurant, and it smells so fresh of the sea, a nice way to get your tastebuds going. Desserts are good too: I don't remember what I had, but I do remember feeling really good. I don't know Meurin or Bethune. We tend to distrust Michelin and the star system as they like more traditional places than GM. With GM, there are explanations about liking or not liking a restaurant, so we get a better sense of what will be to our taste. We had a car because we did a lot of touring too, and the Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art is in a suburb (Villeneuve d'Asq); local public transportation is excellent, so you could easily take a city bus if you don't feel like dealing with a car. We like the flexibility of driving, so it is always our first choice: after Lille, we drove to Nancy and then to Strasbourg (to see the newest contemporary art museum there: a great collection of mostly European artists).

L'Huitriere is definitely worth a trip to Lille, and it is such a short ride, train or car, from Paris (less than 2 hours), one doesn't even have to stay overnight. However, the museums are very good, so in that sense, a night at the Alliance Couvent des Minimes (a restored convent! Flemish architecture) is great: it allows a little extra time for walking around, the Grand Place is stunning and the patisseries alone worth a detour.

Last May, we visited Australia for the first time, and came prepared to "hit" the restaurant scene: we had done research on the internet, and decided on Flower Drum before we even left the US. Little did we know! When we called on a Thursday night for a Sunday table for two, the gracious person at the other end, said: "I am so sorry, we have no table available for nearly two weeks, I can call you if there is a cancellation next week!" But we were going back to home that Monday. There was a conversation at the restaurant end, and the hostess came back on and said: "Would you like to come at 9:00 (PM), we should have a free table by then; Sunday is Mother's day, and we'll be especially busy." We jumped at the chance, and were rewarded with one of our most extraordinary meals ever, bar none! We had the tasting menu, a great deal of thoughtful attention, and a very reasonable check. Only one other meal in Hong-Kong could compare, at the Lai Ching Heen (The Regent hotel), Alain Ducasse had recommended it. In Melbourne, we also enjoyed Stella (Spring St), with a somewhat traditional menu, but each dish had its own touches of creativity, and we relished every blessed bite. We enjoyed other restaurants in Sidney and Melbourne, without once eating kanguru or crocodile -- couldn't bring ourselves to do it! Rockpool is beautiful with its contemporary decor, and the chef, a treasure to behold. Our disappointment was Cairns where there was not a decent restaurant to be had, as hard as we tried, everything was of the greasy spoon type. Even the Greek restaurant we resorted to had ridiculous belly dancers who could not move their bellies/hips to save their lives. What a beautiful country and what a delightful people! My husband was actually addressed as "mate" by someone he chatted with on the street. Melbourne is my favorite city so far, it gave us the same pleasure Paris, Barcelona, Buenos Aires provided, with the arts and museums at every street corner practically, and restaurants to remember for ever. (Edited by Danielle at 7:51 am on Oct. 5, 2001)

I am so ashamed, I am almost blushing in embarrassment for forgetting Sally's! I have not been there in a long long time because I usually go for pizza with friends who prefer Pepe's. Yes, Claire's is very pleasant indeed, and Mamoun's introduced me to middle-eastern food, so I am especially grateful to "him". Another very nice place in New Haven, is Zinc, a relatively recent addition -- an after Bux's time kind of addition, I don't remember if it's two or three years. I think food is delicious and interesting, i.e. not the usual run-of-the-mill, but portions are too small and noise level too high -- here again, nothing to absorb it: the contemporary decor is quite elegant.

Union League Café: I don't remember when the management changed. The former owner, now retired is the present owner-chef's mother-in-law, he was the chef of the more formal restaurant under her baton; the style has changed to "bistro", it is still difficult to have a table for dinner on weekends. Roomba is probably two-years old, and very difficult to get a table at every night. Food is truly excellent and well-priced; just too noisy with music and chatter, and nothing absorbs the sound. I only know of one famous apizza, Pepe's, in the Brewster Street area. Shaw, are you there? Bux says you know two! I just remembered to name the Park West Cafe in Hamden, Ct. It is owned by two interior designers who love to cook; their restaurant, near Quinipiac University is tiny-tiny and they serve only lunch from Monday to Wednesday, reservations are a MUST (203-288-2233): their garlic soup is "to die for" to quote my friend Micki; and you can buy it to go by the gallon (well maybe by the quart). You can convince them to give a party for you on a weekend, but they'll do it only once a month.

Recently, Bux (France discussion moderator) commented that he did "not remember much very good food there." He was referring to New Haven, CT. What a thrill it is to encourage him to come back and see how much the scene has changed in the last five years or so. I have two personal favorites, probably because they remind me of France: the Union League Cafe, in a stately old building (the Roger Sherman) near the Yale campus. The dining-room is large, with a handsme fireplace, huge windows, tables far apart and draped in white, the staff is experienced and sollicitous -- that's a terrific first impression. Upon sitting down, of course the menu is handed to you to peruse: someone offers to take your drink order, your server comes over with a basket of homemade breads and describes that day's specials -- there are usually very few, so that you won't forget the first few after you've heard the last ten. The menu is simple and dishes are clearly described. My favorite for lunch is the "moules marinieres", and the sandwiches are scrumptious, if you can call them sandwiches -- the chef lists them that way! Lunch prices are very good, around ษ without wine, but it includes salad, "main course", dessert and good coffee. And then, in Branford, Ct, there is Le petit Café, a bouchon Lyonnais. They have a unique formula: for a ำ dollars prix-fixe, all diners enjoy the same first courses, a sampling of six different ones: a soup, a mixed salad, a pâté, some cold vegetable (beet root, or celery root, or grated carrots), etc. Then diners choose a main course from the blackboard: if I recall correctly, it involves four meats and two water creatures (fish or seafood), everyone gets the same vegetable courses, homemade baguettes, and a choice of five or six desserts. Wine, bottled water, coffee are additional. The concept was developed by the former owner, Patrick Boisjot with the help of Jacques Pépin (Patrick is now the director of the Culinary School at UNH); the new chef-owner is a superb chef with great creative talents, and his lovely wife does wonders at welcoming guests. The servers are well-trained, they know all the dishes, because they have tried them. A real treat. There is also an outstanding Malaysian restaurant: Bentara's on Orange Street, downtown: the chef uses his mother's recipes, no less! and it is sooooo good! The decor is classy, the tables far apart, the servers have a few things to learn, but they are OK. The Cuban restaurant, Roomba, on Chapel street, in the basement of the Roger Sherman building, serves too much food: I usually have to order two appetizers, because picking one main course is not enough to satisfy my urge to try different dishes. If my husband is in a sharing mood, we order two main courses between us and share. My only objection is that the noise level is very high, and conversations are difficult, a definite drawback in my not-always-so-humble opinion. I am probably forgetting some of the others, unfortunately, but I'll shamelessly come back to this topic. Danielle

One more thought about all our pet peeves, we all seem to agree on the same ones. I suggest we make a resolution, all of us, here and now, not to allow the behavior we disapprove of. Maybe we can educate restaurant owners and waitstaff, if they are not savvy enough to do it themselves. Hence, I resolve - to say with a smile to the waiter/waitress to wait a little longer before I express an opinion about what has just been served me; - to request a priced menu if I am handed an unpriced one, and not to grovel with an explanation -- my request is self-explanatory; - to quietly ask the maitre d'hotel to stop the unruly children near my table from running around the restaurant, and/or to ask him/her to prevent someone from smoking a cigar nearby. By the way, at the extraordinary Chateau d'Audrieu, near Bayeux in Normandy, an elegant room has been set aside for those who smoke (Cuban, no less) cigars with their coffee. As I educate myself in the finer art of enjoying an elegant or bourgeois dinner, I'll become a little more assertive: I dine out to please myself not chefs or maitres d'hotel. Will anyone else go along with me?

O I love that one. We were 2 couples at La Pyramide in Vienne, France (just south of Lyon on the Rhone) and lunch there was an old dream come true. Anna and I were given priceless menus, our husbands the "priced" ones. I nodded to the maitre d'hotel to get his attention, and quietly told him that we were treating our husbands because they had done nearly all the work while we were cruising the Canal du Midi -- I was sarcastic for our husbands'benefit, and I was lying about who was treating whom, to see if I could disturb the Maitre d'hotel.It worked, he quickly switched the menus, expressed his profound embarrassment at this "mistake" and wished he had been told befoe it occured: to which I replied that the mistake was the management in making assumptions. In any case, when I go out with my husband the money comes out of the same pocketbook/credit card... so there.

To this wonderful list, I would like two of my own discoveries: Le Petit Machon, at 158 Rue Saint-Honore, two steps from the Louvre and the Palais-Royal. It's somewhat like a bouchon lyonnais, and the only place that serves quenelles in the manner of Lyon, that is nice and fat (i.e. big, not grease) with a wonderful lobster shell with tomato sauce; service is warm, friendly and most welcoming, lunch and dinner, except Mondays(01.42.60.08.06). My other favorite is Chez Jean at 38 Rue Boyer in the 20th arrondissement (01.47.97.44.58), almost at the top of the hill of Menilmontant dinner only; it's home cooking as prepared by a young man of only local fame and the small dining-room is presided over with great humor and bonhommie by Jean Chouty (former journalist and wine critic); he speaks English quite well too. The cuisine is copious, tasty and the atmosphere most informal -- entertainment on Fridays. I favor the Poulet au citron and also his puree de flageolets or sometimes haricots blancs (garlicky and smooth!). Both are easy on one's budget. I agree with Bux that France, always known for its great chefs, has pushed the envelope and is now getting recognized for its inexpensive and lesser known neighborhood restaurants; they are everywhere, and what a pleasure it is to discover them oneself and then recommend them to all.

Just last January, we decided to go to Lille, largely to visit the Museum of Contemporary Art in Villeneuve d'Asq; we stayed three days and of course scoured around for good food. Lille is a beautiful city and a lot of exciting things take place there. One of the highlights must have been dinner at L'Huitriere, which we found by browsing through the menus French restaurants post outside; it is above a fish market: the food was exquisite, of course superbly fresh, service was attentive without being obsequious. We found the prices reasonable compared to other "starred" restaurants in France, especially Paris. After Lille, we drove to Nancy in Lorraine and found a great restaurant there, Mirabelle, just off Place Stanislas. But that's another post.