Capaneus

yep. political douchebaggery can take the fun out of most anything. edited to add: i mean, the chairman's selection program wasn't perfect, but it was fun. and it was also cool to know that the person in charge really dug what he was doing. and sure they're continuing the program, and who knows, there might even be a deal or three, but really the joy has been sucked out of it. for a moment there it was possible to actually LIKE our draconian state store system, but no more. ← All true. On the other hand, even if the fun has somewhat gone out of it, I'm still buying. In the current crop, the best buys are any number of Australian Shirazes. Personally, I've picked up a truckload of assorted Rolf Binder bottlings, which, at $12 to $15, may be the best bargains I've ever drunk. No joke. If these were CdR people would be elbowing each other in wine-store aisles all over the country. But it's Australia, which has had a string of great vintages longer than my memory, and we're likely spoiled. The Rolf Binder "Halliwell" '04 is my go-to tipple of the moment, and I'd be embarrassed to tell you just how much I've bought. Even though I've had to bug the bejeezus out of my local store, since distribution continues to largely bypass Philadelphia. But if you don't find these, there are at least a half-dozen other great finds in the CS program right now. But skip the Phillip Shaw "Number 25" merlot, cab, cabernet franc blend. I found it thin and unpleasantly acidic. And while we're on the subject of great wines from former British colonies, if you ever wanted to try a Canadian icewine, but were spooked by the prospect of a second mortgage, pick up a split of the Jackson-Triggs Vidal bottling, still around at about $13 per. It's great stuff - I like it better than the Inniskillin also floating around, and it's half the price. The small size and low, low price make it a great opportunity to make the very charming acquaintance of this Northern sweetie...

Per Se isn't so tough - they're not tiny. Make your reservations - if you can, since there's a surprising number of people out there who own auto-dialers, and only one winner each morning. Then (if you're the Lucky Diner that day) worry about the guest list (much) later. My guess is that these won't be hard tickets to foist off.

We could tell you, but then we'd have to kill you. By wrapping you in a thin sheet of dough and then heating you until you melt. Just kidding. The picture is from Sunday's outing to Dim Sum Garden. You can see more purdy pitchers, and a less-cryptic account from Philadining, by following the link in his sig. I will say that, while I have very limited experience with xiao long bao, if they get a whole lot better than these, I've got a new monkey for my back. Them's great dumplings.

The space formerly housed a pharmacy, and the restaurant's concept is farm-to-city, locavore-friendly. Farm/pharmacy.

Right. These sorts of comparisons are only constructive, I think, when they are used to drive progress - the success of the Greenmarkets/Hudson Valley partnership most likely was a bit of a wakeup call to local producers, for one. We have a great program now, and it's getting better very quickly: the Sunday Headhouse Market raised the profile of Farmer's Markets around town immeasurably, and that's got to translate to higher demand, and that in turn will encourage new producers to jump into the pool. Those are great news, and that's where the focus should be.

Which it is, most likely. Just not free-range, and it's probable some of the other standards aren't met either. But, as I understand it, they incorporate acorns into the diet of all the Iberico-bound swine.

I'd say we're playing a very good game of catch-up, though -- and that we do San Francisco (if not New York) one better in having two organizations that promote farmers' markets in neighborhoods throughout the region, both affluent and poor. The Food Trust's Farmers Market Program has done especially well in that last regard -- and they took care of the neighborhoods first before making a big splash with their 25th farmers' market, in a space that was made for them, the New Market shambles. (Note the "Food Stamp Program" information on the left side of the page I've linked.) To that we must add the 12 farmers' markets operated by Farm to City. While their locations tend to skew affluent, they too make an effort to serve a broad cross-section of the Greater Philadelphia community. Sure we're not doing all that well? ← Without presuming to know much about the programs available either in Philadelphia or San Francisco, I seem to recall having heard of precisely that sort of thing being implemented on the Left Coast well over a decade ago. Alice Waters was involved, but then she always is.

On La Tienda, (roughly) $162/lb, around $1400 for a whole 8.5lb boneless ham - assuming the dollar does not fall further: they warn the final bill may be higher if it does. Even assuming a premium for the bonelessness (and another because it's La Tienda, and that's just how they roll), the bellota price should still be considerably higher than the $99 which is being charged around town right now. Which I presume is for garden-variety jamon Iberico.

All true. And while RTM has a lot of tradition as what you call a public market, we lag far behind San Francisco - and NY as well, for that matter - in the development of Farmers' Markets

I may be misremembering (ravages of age and whatnot), but my recollection is that the availability of the Jamon de Bellota is just very limited, and US importers have to wait in line like everybody else. The Bellota (beyond which you have distinctions of DOC, but let's not get silly) hogs are a fairly small percentage of the total number, and are raised free-ranging, which in itself places some limits on the practice. La Tienda claims they won't be available until this Summer, which casts some doubt in my mind as to the veracity of Di Bruno's labeling.

Actually, I bought a case the last go-round, and I liked the wine quite a lot. It's leaner and more austere than most Barbarescos of this vintage, but still quite a good wine. I haven't drank a bottle in a couple of months - I have one left, though I've been thinking of restocking - but that latest one was pretty much the same wine I recall. Barbaresco and Barolo are Nebbiolo, not Sangiovese, and I've found that many people find them difficult to approach. And while '01 was an unusually plush vintage in the Piedmonte, the Rizzi reminds me much more of traditional wines. On the other hand, the browning is not something I've noticed in my own wine. Your bottle may have been somehow adulterated. You'd likely have noticed if it was cooked or madeirized, but something else may be off.

I've been twice since their departure, and I would say the level has been kept up remarkably well. I was only disappointed in one of the desserts, and that cannot be related to Matt and Sonja's departure, since, as I understand it, the current pastry chef has been at the ovens for quite a while now. Oh, and they'll do a side order of the spaetzle. Why had this never occurred to me?

Keep in mind that these merchants will be pricing these wines however they wish. No reason to think the savings will be passed on to us.

I'm reasonably sure you are still in time to order from Griggstown: http://store.griggstownquailfarm.com/c-26-turkey.aspx I also believe several of the merchants at RTM offer fresh turkeys - including heirloom breeds - for Thanksgiving pre-order.

Yeah. Don't try that sandwich that won a televised showdown for Best Sandwich in America, either. Or try it and just make alternative lunch plans. Delilah's isn't terrible, but for my money her chicken isn't even the best in the RTM: Down Home Diner's skillet fried is better. Neither seemed worth referring a Southern gentleman to, though. And really, really listen to folks about those crepes. Really. And at DiNic's, remember: broccoli rabe, not spinach; sharp provolone, not mild; go early if you can. I'll let you make your own decision on peppers, just cause I'm in a tolerant mood.

If I gave my opinion of Pat's and Geno's, there'd'd be a tussle before I clicked the "Post" button. Cheesesteaks are the foodstuff of record for Philly. The sandwich many of the natives feel should be Philly's signature is roast pork with rabe and sharp provolone. Both can be had in the terminal, and in better iterations: my recommendation would be the roast pork at DiNic's, though you'll need to specify you want it with broccoli rabe - it's a very fine sandwich, now that's he's turned away from his wicked spinach'ed ways. Aside from that, I'm drawing a blank on what I'd call "typical" Philly fare. I'm sure others will pitch in, though.

The obvious one is Reading Terminal Market, which will be a short block from your conference site. A couple of blocks in the opposite direction, you have Capogiro, and great gelato. Within a very easy walk from either location are any number of restaurants I like a whole lot - including Tinto, certainly. If you give us some sense of your tastes, I'm sure we can come up with something.

It's (going to be) BAAAACK! http://www.phillyblog.com/philly/center-ci...eopen-soon.html

I suppose I could have been more clear, Rob. I'm glad wkl set things straight. And I'd have to agree, all, that it would be a shame to miss out on the take-out goodies in the shop, much less a dinner if you can eke out a reservation, just because LaBan glowed a bit too brightly (I probably did too...). ← You're not the critic of record for the city of Philadelphia. The main reason I did not post comments about LaBan's review in this thread is that they are not about Talula's Table: my sense of it, not having been there, is that it probably is, in fact, a wonderful restaurant. They are really about the review itself. Ultimately, my beef is with the critic, and the odd patterns that crop up in his work whenever his orbit and Sikora's intersect, and whatever they say about his probity. For what it's worth, I think your reviews are delightful, this one included.

Well, one of the perks of a government-run liquor distribution system, at least in our case, is that they're less concerned with the fluctuations of the market. The price they will sell a bottle remains constant for its shelf life. So that might explain your find, if it's an older wine. Otherwise, some of us have occasionally run into odd, unadvertised discounts: Chapoutier is a frequent suspect. I have a guess (and it's only that) that these wines might be small quantities purchased in lots with the Chairman's Selections, but of which there are too few to include in the program. You've got me curious, now. What was the wine?

Given that they do one party, and that less than nightly, not a lot of people have made it there, so we have no opinion on the place. Some of us did comment on the LaBan review - on the LaBan thread.

Today's Foobooz mentions that Michael Klein's Food & Drinq blog reports Matt and Sonya are leaving Philadelphia. The restaurant's been sold to a relative, and another will be taking over, along with the current sous-chef. Hopefully nothing to worry about. Can't help but be a little nervous about this: after too long away, I've recently had two outstanding meals at Matyson. The weekly Tasting Menu e-mail is something I look forward to every Monday.

Duplicate. Sorry.

And for $12.99, they have a Jackson-Triggs Vidal Icewine 187ml, code 10231. An easier casual expense. The couple of Vidal dessert wines I've tried have generally been lower in acidity than Rieslings. How do others' experiences compare?

I've been meaning to mention it for a while. In general, I've been following with some curiosity the expansion of the spirits side of the Chairman's Selection program. It seems to be creeping about in the shadows, ashamed of itself: no mention on the website, no advertising of any kind. Since the initial appearance of the Armandale, it's expanded some: besides the St.Germain, a few weeks ago, yesterday I saw a half-dozen tequilas and a few other assorted items at the 19th and Chestnut store. I wonder if there's any way to search the program comprehensively.