Gypsy Boy

Given the date on the original post, I may be far too late. Still, better late.... My personal favorites in Bucharest are two. The first is Bistro Ateneu (str. Episcopiei 3, reservations recommended, 313-4900). It is strategically situated close to the Athenee Theatre and the Hilton; a cosy place, as attractive for its environment as for its food. Then there’s La Taifas (str. G. Clemenceau 6). It is a couple of small rooms and is very likely to be crowded. The menu is largely traditional dishes and it is posted on blackboards. The atmosphere is nice and warm, no credit cards (though this may have changed by now). Others worth a visit: Hanul Maramures, str. General Berthelot 24 (set very far back from the street on the north side--I walked past it about five times without seeing it!), serving traditional food in a comfortable setting at very reasonable prices Doina, Soseaua Kiseleff 8 (222-3179 and 222-6717), a pleasant drive and somewhat fancy. A wonderful outdoor terrace and garden and beautiful indoor setting for an excellent, if expensive, meal. Doi Cocosi, Soseaua Bucuresti-Targoviste 6 (667-1998 and 667-1080), a bit of a distance on the road to Targoviste, is also excellent. Don't let the touristy air throw you. The food is quite authentic. (And you will almost certainly enjoy the show!) Though some guidebooks recommend it, I didn't care for the Aquarium (str. Alecu Russo 4). It is a beautiful setting in an old villa, but too stuffy for me, too expensive, and a very limited menu. Food was fine but the experience has kept me away ever since. By the way, you can expect excellent traditional Romanian music at all of these places (Doi Cocosi even has a folk dance show). Finally, although I don't think that the food is quite as good, you really must visit Caru cu bere for the splendid, spectacular interior. I have recommendations for a number of other cities as well, if you’re interested (and I’m not terribly too late) (including Brasov, Sibiu, Sinaia, Cluj, Iasi, Suceava….) Just ask. One last word of advice: new places are opening all the time and you ought to ask someone local for recommendations as well. Have fun: it’s a beautiful country with warm, funny, friendly people. I can’t wait to go back!

Hope I'm not too late with this response but here goes. I haven’t been for a couple years, but these were among the highlights of my visits to Moscow and Peter. If still there (and so far as I know they are), I’d recommend all of them. Moscow first: Dyadya Vanya (Uncle Vanya) was one of the highlights of my time in Moscow. I couldn't have been more pleased with this cozy place. It feels very much like an old-time neighborhood restaurant. There is a warm, inviting bar in the front and a smallish room in back with about ten tables. All is wood and the staff is friendly. They even have menus in English. I loved the food, it wasn't expensive, and it was clearly popular with locals. (Dinner with an appetizer, soup, entree, and beer was about USD$15 in November 2001.) No reservations seemed necessary and the best advice I can give you is simple: don't miss it! ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 17. Tel. 232-1448 You want fancy? You want expensive? You want a wonderful, 'Old Russia' experience? There may be others but I had a terrific time at 1 Red Square. Located at that address, you enter the restaurant by entering the State History Museum. You tell the guards you're going to the restaurant so you don't have to pay for the museum, but you go through the electronic monitor and turn left. Then be prepared! It's down the stairs and into the last century. Fancy, fancy. Fine linen, crystal, silver....and exquisite food with service (and prices) to match. That said, you can get what I believe is true Russian food here. And I can't think of nicer surroundings to enjoy it in. My guess is that it is popular with tourists, though, so be careful. (I went in November and there weren't many other tourists in Moscow, period.) 1 Red Square (of course). Tel. 925-3600. Reservations would seem wise, if not downright essential. And they do accept major credit cards. Kitezh is a friendly neighborhood kind of place, though it is not small. I had an excellent meal there starting with borsch and some real pirozhok. Then, this being Russia, I HAD to have it sooner or later, right? So I broke down and ordered Beef Stroganoff (with a Baltika beer). According to its little propaganda sheet (advertisement), the restaurant features 'XVII century stylized interiors, wooden furniture, waiters and waitresses wearing loose Russian linen and quiet music.' This is all accurate; in fact, the music was so terrific (solo guitar) that I lingered over dessert just to listen, relax and enjoy the surroundings. ul. Petrovka, 23/10 (Walk through the iron gates and around to the back) Tel. 209-6685 or 209-7108 (noon to midnight). Peter: Zolotaya Rybka is a small restaurant that serves wonderful things. The name means something like Little Golden Fish and though it's not large, the food was great: fresh, healthy portions, and reasonably priced. The decor's got a lot of glass and chrome and, for those of you who want something besides fish, relax: you can probably get it here. Nevsky Prospekt 166 (way out on Nevsky, toward the Nevsky lavra end of the street) 277-2484 Café Idiot serves vegetarian food in a wonderfully warm, cozy place. A few steps down from the sidewalk, this is several rooms with low vaulted ceilings, well-worn comfy furniture, and loads of odds and ends (from board games to reading material) to keep you occupied. I wasn't thrilled with my meal, but think I made the wrong choice. (Stuffed cabbage, at least in my book, is better when it's stuffed with meat, not more veggies.) Still, I'd return in a moment. Very mellow, very cozy. They even have jazz on weekends (says my guidebook--they were merely playing it on tape when I visited). nab. Moika 82. 315 1675 (Noon to 11 p.m.) Laima. Not to rave or anything, but how often do you get to visit a fast-food joint that serves their meals on china and with silverware? Then try Laima. If not for the china then for the best fast-food food I've ever eaten. They have about three dozen Russian meals listed on the chalkboard, almost all of which are under $4 USD. Not only is it served fast and hot, but it is terrific food. And the choices are not exactly typical fast-food: borsch, stuffed peppers, kebabs.... I'm willing to bet you'll never find a better fast-food place anywhere in the world. (And if you do, I want to know about it!) nab. Griboedova, 30/16. (a few doors in from Nevsky Prospekt) Open all day (and night). Tel. 315-5545 Graf Suvorov was the best restaurant I visited in Russia. Be prepared to spend money (lunch was over $40 USD in November 2001) but get your tastebuds ready for exquisite food and top-notch service. There are two (I think) small rooms, beautifully decorated, just below street level. I cannot speak highly enough of this restaurant and the spectacular meal I had there (read my travelogue for details). If this is what you're looking for, straighten your tie, shine your shoes, and get ready for a fabulous meal! ul. Lomonosova 6 (a few steps down from the sidewalk) 315-4328 Good luck--have a great visit--and don't forget to report back!