M Foie Gras

Kevin Mangeolles (chef of The George on the Isle of Wight) visited Thomas Keller's The French Laundry on 3 occasions over a two day period last year, paying his own way, to taste and learn. Ditto for El Bulli. His personal curiousity means that this is what he does on days off - and, lucky Isle of Wight to reap the results. Jay Rayner may not have appreciated that he was tasting Kevin's version of Keller's oyster/pearl dish when he visited to review for the Observer...chacun a son gout...but, ouch, it certainly seems unfair to be liken the dish to 'snot'. Three cheers to a chef who dares to experiment, to travel and to test his own limits. The Restaurant at the George benefits from Kevin's expertise. For those wanting to consume a safer path - the same hotel has a brasserie where Kevin stays slightly safer and more traditional.