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Thanks Doc for your response, I hate to keep asking about the wine thing, but I find that memorable eating experiences for me in Paris invariably include fine wine at a reasonable price (e.g., a bottle of '02 Sancerre at Le Bristol for lunch). Henry

Doc, My last experience at L'Astrance a few years ago (2002) was only satisfactory. I felt the scene at the restaurant was definitely not happening. Perhaps, things have picked up as it seems you had a hopping good time. Even with the dollar back then, I felt the prices (dinner fixed price tasting menu and wine) were a bit high for the cuisine (not loaded with expensive materials relative to other tables in town) that was more international than the french (albeit new french). It reminded me of SanFrancisco, than Paris. What wine did you have with your meal? What did you think of the wine list (quality /price)? Appreciate your comments. Henry

I just got back from a trip to Paris dining at several one and two star restaurants (Michelin) that made Per Se seem eminently fair and reasonable in pricing, relative to the food, space/ambiance, and service delivered. New Yorkers should count their lucky stars.

Hi Doc, Thanks for sharing your dining experiences in Paris. Do you think ordering a la carte as opposed to the chef's tasting menu is the way to go at the top tier restaurants? Also, which wines did you order with your meals? Were the prices outrageous? Best regards, Henry

while you're in donostia, try a wonderful little place near the iglesia de coro called kokotxa; the young chef: dani and the lovely maitre: estella will treat you fine; have fun!

Bravo, Mr. Fat Guy! Your impassioned response should be a clarion call for all food aesthetes. But, it seems to me that you and other serious food writers are establishing a de facto standard that makes the judgment of critics like Mr. Bruni a foregone and rather superfluous conclusion.

Thank you, Mark, for the welcome. I was stunned by this feat and was more than a little skeptical at first since I don't particularly care for cucumbers. As it turned out, the cucumber sorbet turned out to be the perfect follow-up to the previous Chaource cheese course with poached santa rosa plums and tellicherry black pepper shortbread). Chef Benno has perfect pitch when it comes to the palate.

My spouse and I enjoyed an otherworldy lunch at Per Se this Labor Day weekend to celebrate our wedding annniversary. Thomas Keller is the acknowledged master and visionary of this stunning restaurant, but Mr. Keller has found the perfect alter ego in Jonathan Benno. Chef Benno brought commitment and pride to every dish that was served (the Chef's Tasting Menu presented many of the French Laundry classics as well as novel substitutions like Roasted Quail with glazed apricots and English Cucumber Sorbet that expressed the very essence of a cucumber). The expert service staff were Benno's eyes and ears and seemed to relay information to him throughout the meal, as if he were actually interested in what we thought (e.g., we felt the nova scotia lobster "cuit sous vide" was tasty but a little stringy- to which he answered with a white truffle oil-infused custard with black truffle ragout and chive potato chip). This chef demands attention and praise, and he certainly got it from us. At the end of the day, I was proud to be an American eating at a truly American restaurant like Per Se.