tony h

Somehow I managed to swing a cancellation from MB on the opening weekend of the 2005 season. Rarely have I been this excited about a meal. It was also the last night of our holiday – just as well anything would be a let down after this. We arrived late afternoon & checked in. We were shown to the room & on entering just stopped & stared: wow. This was true luxury. A breath taking minimalist room with great view over rugged Aubrac countryside. And, within a hour a couple of inches of snow fell which just enhanced the whole experience. In case I forget to mention it – the service was flawless. The meal – so difficult to choose as it all looked so tempting. In the end I suppose it was a no brainer as we went for the larger of the two tasting menus. Ten spoons arrived – 5 each. To be frank – I have absolutely no idea what they were: beetroot/carrot thing?; something that was pink & mousse-like; crayfish?; cabbage shreds with pieces of cep?; risotto made with wheat grains? dunno - but they were pretty damned good (they told us in French but we were still feeling a bit overwhelmed to remember to ask for a translation). #1 – warm salad. Looks like it does on the front of his book. Lots of pieces and slices of many different vegetables & vegetable flowers all pulled together with some local ham & dressing. Each mouthful was a little revelation. We kept looking at each other, grinning. #2 – Two crayfish, butterflied and placed on a piece of slate. The area above the tail was covered in a tiny dice of broad bean and fennel foam. Streak of fennel puree was also on the slate. They looked like little angels & tasted as heavenly. #3 – Foie gras. I have had, or though I’ve had perfectly cooked foie gras before – but nothing that’s gone before even comes closes to this. To accompany it was a dramatic slice of beetroot - large and oval shaped. Some fine, slender apple “straws” were resting at an angle on the FG. A splashes of balsamic & seasoning. A humbling plate. #4 – potato. Slices of potato wrapped up like a swiss role and cooked so the inside melts and the outside is caramelised. On top is a crumble made from brioche and truffle. This was accompanied by “skin of milk” sauce. Christ – and I though the foie gras was good. I wanted to eat this until my stomach exploded a al monty python. #5 – roast chicken! Well, I never thought I’d see something as simple as roast chicken on the menu. But there it was – a large slice taken from the breast & left still pink! It came with roast artichokes and a foam made from the roasting juices. It reminded me that I’ve never really know what real chicken tasted like because so much bland food tastes like chicken. We’ll – this was certainly a masterclass in how to cook chicken & what an incredible taste it was too. The cheese course was great – I don’t know what I had but they were very good indeed. The first dessert was the signature chocolate fondant. I’ve had this many times at other places so it was interesting to see what he was doing here. We were not disappointed. The fondant itself was very, very crispy & the inside was incredibly liquidy – not sure how they managed to get this working so well together. Perhaps twice baked with more liquid centre put in for the second baking? This came with a very refreshing almond and lime ice cream. Main desserts was an onslaught of dishes too many to remember so late in the evening. Of note was the take on crème brulee – ice cream of crème brulee which rested in a caramel cloud. The petit fours were all frozen – I don’t have details – but they were impressive. Lastly – to finish off the meal – candy floss! I toured the kitchen the next morning & Michel was there. He shook my hand & signed a menu. He’d been up at 4am to go to the market – a task he shares with his son Sebastian three times a week. I just stood gazing at the wonderful creations being made in the kitchen. Go, if you can. It really is special.

easy - just pick up the phone seriously, they have been fairly busy recently. This trip was originally planned for february but we had to move it. you could get lucky but 4 weeks or so seems the norm for a weekend. its well worth the wait

“Kind of puts Le Manior to shame” was the general feeling was we drove back from another astonishing meal at Le Champignon Sauvage last Friday. Don’t get me wrong – Le Manoir is a very special place – but the food and service at Le CS really is something different. While reading the menu – which is increasingly difficult to choose from as too much tempts – some wonderful little cheese choix pastries arrived. Inhaled more than eaten. “Can we pig out & have two starters – you really have to try the scallops?” This didn’t take much persuasion. Pre-starters arrived – the fabulous parsnip veloute with peanut foam so highly regarded by Jan Moir plus a fioe gras custard topped with chervil root puree. Unbelievably good – the textures and sweet & salt tastes tangoed beautifully together. This was followed by another pre-starter – wheat risotto with ceps. Staggeringly good – just beneath the sliced ceps surface was a mound of goats cheese which slowly melted incorporating itself into the unctuous sauce. Starters of scallops, squid, pumpkin puree and squid ink is a dish that I had last autumn & I have thought of it many, many times since. If this dish were human, I’d want to be its gentleman caller. Two wonderfully large seared scallops with pan fried squid surrounded by pumpkin & squid ink. Roasted pumpkin seeds added to texture & taste. Only the desire to try other dishes stopped me ordering this twice. For starters #2 we chose different dishes. I had the langoustine tails, with langoustine tortellini and cock’s livers all bound tighter with a light langoustine consommé. Later, David told me that with was still in development and only added to the menu recently. A separate cup of consommé with cauliflower cream (I think) would accompany it. The langoustine were good – but those cock’s livers were quite sublime. They looked like they were a fine mousse of liver – but no – that’s how they come. Alan had the foie gras, quince and pickled walnuts – perfectly roasted fg with – well salad is hardly a fitting description & construction is too harsh. Very & deeply satisfying. Main were – roast lamb with crushed jerusalem artichokes – killer sauce. Alan had the roast pig belly with pig check – 5 spice sauce. I’ve had this before – seriously good. The pre-starter - rose geranium scented brulee with greengage sorbet – poping sugar in the brulee. It’ll be a sad day when this is replaced. Desserts – surprised we still had room – were – trio of grapefruit (parftait, sorbet & gelee with segments) utterly refreshing. Alan had the burdock mousse - deeply satisfying. It less than 2 hours from London. You’d be daft to not go.

the wonderful club gascogne is nearby

I was taken recently for valenties day - haven't had the time to write it up. We also had the same/similar menu. I thought the food was exceptionally well cooked, service lovely plus the flowers carved out of beetroot were a hoot. However, it didn’t set me alight. There were flashes of brilliance here & there – for example – the ceps that came with the turbot were truly stunning. As was the foie gras with ginger bread. However, the duck came with a fairly dull set of veg. Desserts – an arrangement of 4 chocolate desserts was very well received. Wine was ridiculously expensive & I think I managed to find the cheapest bottle – half bottle of red for £22 (I think it was a givry – but I can’t be sure). To their credit they treated it (and me) as if petrus had been ordered. I guess they know their market very well - I think we were the youngest there & we're not that young – and I suppose those who go prefer more a classic than inventive approach to their food. Agree with psb - must be wonderful to go for Sunday lunch.

Mark - was the one when someone turned up unannouced at half past one for lunch & wondered why the kitchen - full complement of two people - couldn't cook on demand food at that level & the person then sulked away in a huff, posting within the hour? Don't let that put you off - food is stunning; as is front of house service. Food quite orignial & well worth the trip.

Here's a little known secret - Le Champignon Sauvage in Cheltenham in open for lunch on Saturdays. Its (probably) the cheapest 2 star in Europe and much much better than many a 3 star.

great ideas - thanks I realised I meant to emphasis that I'm looking for something as theatrical as Sarastro - but with better food. Planet Hollywood/Hard Rock - christ - I never even thought about these. Shows what a food snob I've become since joining eG

Big sis is bringing her brats to london next month. Any ideas where to take the kids for a fun meal – west end preferred. Have already taken them to Sarasto near covent garden - great for them - awful food for us. Their ages - 7 & 9. Really appreciate your help here

Howard - very tempted to take you up on your offer on Le Gav but I'm already off the Waterside Inn this week - first time. Anything there extra special to watch out for?

we know, we know & still we don't judge...

how'd you get them to make a decision? (btw - the library mngrs are lovely - its the IT geeks that scare me)

I've been to Le Gavroche & would like to go back some day. But not with this lot!

Sorry - "corporate" is hardly a fit description of these freeloaders.... its for a bunch of library mangers & it managers (iot - geeks). The boss said arrange somewhere good knowing i'm a foodie. It'll be wasted on them - but hey, its not my budget. Alcohol will feature a lot - if only a bottle of gin with a straw hidden in my jacket. The gavroche - it would be hilarious to taken them - i'd sell tickets for the occasion: Silvano getting electric shocks from hanging a jacket made from unnatural fibres, my lot - do you do scampi with chips? (OK they're a bit more polished than that, but not much)

£50 now seems ok

I have to arrange a corporate lunch for 11 somewhere in central london in March. Budget - £30-40ish per head. Any reccomendations anyone?

A worthy review - if you havent been - go! its that good.

Chavot Aikens

viamichelin website is pretty excellent however, the michel webiste is fairly dire to navigate

Are you planning a Red Guide for the US - or New York anyway?

what help, support, advice do you give restaurants when they attain a star. When awarding 3 (or 2) do you consult with them to see if they can sustain that level of interest or is that just a given from you point of view?

I'm sure they won't mind if I cut & paste - afterall i/we do spend a fortune on their books & reccomendations New Two Stars Midsummer House Cambridge New One Stars The Samling Ambleside Jessica’s Birmingham Simpson’s Birmingham The Goose Britwell Salome The Lygon Arms Broadway Bohemia Channel Islands The New Angel Dartmouth L’Enclume Grange-over-Sands Box Tree Ilkley Whatley Manor Malmesbury Drakes Ripley Sawyards Storrington Rhodes Twenty Four London Assaggi Westminster Sketch Mayfair Umu Mayfair Yauatcha Soho Lose a Star Simpson’s Kenilworth Fleur de Sel Storrington Chesil Rectory Winchester Zaika Kensington & Chelsea McClements Richmond L’Oranger Westminster Carlton House Llanwrtyd Wells I'm very surpised about Aikens - thought he really deserved 2 (then again, maybe Michel coudn;t get a booking to check!)

Any losers?

not me - also - I've never heard of midsummer house - where it is it, who's the chef? le manoir 3 stars - hmm - so that's what a 600 pound salad gets you these days

How can we, the public, influence the guide, if at all. Or, putting it another way, how does Michelin view and accept feedback & what weight does it give.