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pirate

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Everything posted by pirate

  1. I regard Comme Chez Soi as better than any of the Parisian Michelin 3 rosettes. Turbot is all time best with a close second by Witzigman's "Aubergine" when it existed. Ris de veau also spectacular A la carte is the way to order. Enjoyed great Henri Jayer burgundies there.
  2. Cabrales: I digress. On page 281 of Wechsberg's "Blue Trout and Black Truffles" Fernand Point is quoted: "Maybe he should have a sole aux nouilles instead of the truite au porto. I decided against it. It might have been too much, and I don't want my clients to eat too much. Only in bad restaurants is one urged to order a lot. Enfin, you are satisfied." So sole aux nouilles is a Point dish which question came up in some other post. I was too late for Point, but I bear in mind Point's words "But I always try to make every meal une petite merveille " . That's the problem. In France I've very rarely had "une petite merveille". In the 70's once at Troigros, once at Lasserre. twice at Minot's Cote d'Or in Saulieu. In the 80's once at Arpege. Surprisingly Robuchon was a failure I blame that on going for the "tasting menu", something I've grown to despise along with "grand complication" cuisine. In recent years none at the heavily starred Michelin restaurants in France. In Japan the combination of their fanaticism about quality and their aesthetic is unbeatable. Freshness means something in Japan. Where else is a abalone in its shell alive put on a teppanyaki grill ? It opens up and is wiggling. More surprising is how well they do with French and Italian food. The quality of their ingredients is, in my opinion, better than in France.
  3. Another tribute to Tokyo which I feel is gastronomically stronger than Paris. I will be in Paris next week and Tokyo the following week making comparisons.
  4. Lizziee Your posts are all very informative. I'm always amazed at the amount of food and wine you consume.
  5. pirate

    Regis Marcon

    lizziee Thanks. Very impressive. That dish and the duck at Boyer are most impressive as described.
  6. to Cabrales quote:"Filets de sole aux nouilles Fernand Point (Sole with noodles, Fernand Point) -- A large portion of fish, The sauce was a creamy white sauce with some elements of cheese (gratin-like effect). This was bad, because the sole did not have flavor. The sauce was overwhelming, and unappealing, and the noodles were mediocre. How could such a mediocre dish be named after F Point?" This dish was probably originated by Point. Bocuse probably added Point's name for reasons of his own. Please do not blame Point for Bocuse's lousy execution. I do think the conception of the dish as described is not very good. Perhaps only Fernand Point could do something with it.
  7. pirate

    Regis Marcon

    To Lizziee I'm curious about the poached egg you ate at Regis Marcon. Virtually always the eggs are poached in vinegared water and retain a vinegar flavor. Was this the case?
  8. In a very funny novel by the late Cornell professor Morris Bishop that I read in college (sorry I don't remember the title) there is a reference to "tomato juice with a scoop of peach ice cream". Whenever a discussion of Gagnaire's cuisine appears that's what comes to mind. Morris Bishop was a professor of romance languages and wrote an excellent book, among many, on Ronsard. I will be in Paris for a few days next month on business and, although I don't pay the bill, I think Gagnaire is a waste of the company's money. I will try to get to Hiramatsu. From Paris I fly to gastronomic heaven, Tokyo.
  9. For Dumaine and coq au vin see pages 145-6 of Wechsberg's "Dining at the Pavillon". Alas I was too late for Dumaine but loved the food of his sucessor Francois Minot. One reason I'm sceptical of the Michelin award system is that Minot never achieved 3 rosettes.
  10. Thank you for the explanation. This is the one dish that seemed worth a special trip to me.
  11. Veyrat has to recoup his huge investment.
  12. "There was also a galette --pommes ana stuffed with giblets - the most extraordinary potato dish." Pommes de terre Anna is a classic preparation. Please explain "stuffed with giblets". The roast duck if cooked as described would by far be my choice from the menus.
  13. quote from Bux: If not traveling first class it's almost esential First Class food varies tremendously. American carriers are generally mediocre. For some reason the international first class lounges of United in the USA are the best. I rate Air New Zealand best on first class food. They have someone who, if not a chef, dresses like one and seems to prepare food not just unwrap it. Also nice New Zealand wines. Singapore Airlines and All- Nippon are very good. Lufthansa used to be very good but has gone downhill (for example, they used to serve excellent warm blinis with good sevruga caviar instead of the usual cold toast- no more).
  14. pirate

    Veritas

    Best way to handle sweetbreads is braising especially if studded with truffles and tongue. Also like them a la Marechal.These are classic dishes. I won't go to any restaurant having Gray Kunz as the chef after having sweetbreads popcorn style foisted on me when he cooked at Adrienne.
  15. Guy Savoy is generous about serving half portions at half price so it's not hard to compose a "tasting" menu to your own specifications.
  16. Quote from loufood And speaking of eggs, fat and richness how about oeufs en meurette? The red wine cuts the fat.
  17. Quote from Margaret Pilgrim I know this to be true because we are always close to the last to be asked for our meal preference, although we are upper level frequent flyers Im surprised by the remark. It's never happened to me and I'm Star Alliance Gold. In fact I'm flying to Europe in 2 days in business class using 80000 ponts and have top notch seats.
  18. Lasserre recently changed chefs and the food is somewhat more contemporary as of the last time I ate there in April. Decor frozen in time.
  19. Let me add an historical note on Barrier. I ate there 3 times in the early 70's. Excellent ingredients, huge portions, correct cooking but lacked the subtle touches of greatness. But what I remember most is that American Express cards were listed as acceptable. Each time they refused to accept them and insisted on cash which I paid, and each time I checked later with Amex and they insisted he was signed up. At that time the VAT was small or nonexistent. I was not surprised by his later conviction for tax cheating.
  20. The buerre blanc at Mere Michel was excellent in 1982 or 1983. The following year the restaurant declined precipitously.
  21. Let me add a little more about Patricia Wells. On an earlier occasion, I entertained 4 French guests at the Bastide Odeon (another of her recommendations). My guests all praised the food but I knew it was mediocre. It reminds me of my early trips to Paris. I was lunching at Chez Garin (which deserved 3 Michelin rosettes and never got them). I got into a conversation with a Man dining at the next table (rather gloriously). He turned out to be a publisher, in particular, the publisher of Curnonsky. He inquired if I knew about him and I said yes . The publisher told me that Curnonsky wrote beautifully about gastronomy but did not have much taste in food.
  22. I am male. When I went to Marty for lunch, they put me upstairs. Perhaps all Americans except Patricia Wells are exiled. It was her comments that interested me in trying it. Service okay but food mediocre and no bargain. At the time I regretted not heeding Jeffrey Steingarten's advice and gone to one his top recommendations, a bistro within walking distance of Marty but up in the 13th. I personally would not go back to Marty. Does eGullet have a black list?
  23. Yes 600 euros is 10 times 60 euros. However the meals are not the same. So the comparison is flawed.
  24. If you like sea food, La Luna (which is French despite the Italian name) is excellent. I'm not sure of it's current Michelin status but it had one rosette last November when I ate there. It's rather small so reserve. It's in the 8th but north of the Gare St. Lazare. Authentic looking 30's decor.
  25. For years when I visited Berkeley I had a meal at Chez Panisse, either upstairs and down. I recall having some splendid dishes and I love the bread, but there have been mediocre dishes especially recently.
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