Nathan

considering the location...one would expect lunch to be difficult.

after stopping in on Saturday night again, I'm tending to agree that there's not much point to the crudi. too many of the salts and oils overwhelm the fish...for example, the char by the pink peppercorns (the bluefin tuna did stand up to the capprezetta oil though). the polipo/beans prep is nice. the whole pompano with salse verde as well...and unlike u.e., I'm a fan of the maccheroni alla chitarra. sardines/anchovies three-ways was too much of a good thing.

So far I've found S&T to be better. But, admittedly, NY Sichuan restaurants are a bit like pizza. I'd say that Bruni was referring to the Chowhound crowd. They're not hypothetical.

I don't think it's a particularly insightful piece. This is what he says about the ADNY patrons: I'd say he's overflowing with disdain for people who happen to dress extravantly, and perhaps he merely assumes that they're not attuned to the food, because he figures they're not like him. I mean, did he actually ask? More likely it's just an assumption that flows from a lack of familiarity with the people he's looking at. In my experience, limited though it may be, those with expensive tastes are usually more attuned to the quality of what they're consuming, not less. Sure, there are some who just throw money around because they can, but then, not every Momofuku patron is "savvy" either (Bruni's term for them). ← Considering the Tods anecdote and other factors, it's highly doubtful that Bruni has an aversion to things sartorial. Rather, it's hardly a secret that on any given night at restaurants as expensive and opulent as ADNY (let alone in that location....anyone ever spent some time in the lobby? it's.....interesting....) that you'll get a certain segment of people who aren't there for the food....but rather as an exercise in conspicuous consumption....whether it be the cost, the Russian "date" one-third their age....etc. and if you talk to waitstaff of that level...they've seen it all. with that said, he did kind of tar the place with a broad brush.

I agree with this.

there's an interesting combination of quail and panzanella on the app menu. the quail is fine (could use a bit more flavor) but the panzanella part with chunks of watermelon is absolutely terrific. btw, you can go off-menu with Clinton...he does some interesting stuff.

All that is well and good, but the restaurants you went to may have had a slightly different demand. ← That's quite possibly true. (really, I'm sure it is) Still, I just have it stuck in my head that a bar's primary purpose is for drinking. Anyway, it's an interesting policy. Is it unique to Batali joints? Something common in NYC? ← I think it's true of Craft as well. and bar dining is certainly emphasized here...most places don't have an hour wait for seats at the bar to eat though (the Batali places often do)...

I can vouch that Dell'Anima doesn't even get busy until after 9...they're definitely still serving after 11 on weeknights...

the thing is, I think it's food....not an art form (most of the time). and to the extent that food criticism exists (which it does)...it's a different genus than restaurant reviews...which really are a form of consumer reporting. I see the job of the Times reviewer as akin more to a consumer advocate...not as a shill for the restaurant industry nor as a Calvin Trillin.

Sardinia...without question.

that Oceana is still good? that Rosanjin existed. but I'd say the same for all the professional food reviewers...none of them show great depth in a review.

By seat at the bar, do you mean at a table in the bar area or a seat/stool at the ACTUAL bar? Isn't an actual bar, even if it's in a restaurant, primarily for drinking? Also, bar seating is typically "first come first served". If they don't want the bar to be a place for drinkers, why not simply have a long communal table for solo diners or people who just want to show up? ← in New York, dining at the ACTUAL bar is very common. from what I've seen, much more so than any other American city. its a way for people to get around having to plan all of their meals weeks or months in advance. at all Batali restaurants besides Del Posto, diners are prioritized over drinkers at the bar. as someone who can't plan meals weeks in advance...I obviously like this. Lupa has a long communal table. its mainly occupied by couples and groups and the waits for it can be hours long, just like for the other tables.

different claims. the first is stylistic.

Why do you think it's better? ← better written and it gives you a better sense of what it's like to eat at Da Silvano....which is the point of a restaurant review.

oh...don't think I'd looked at the food menu in years until last night

am I the only one who thinks Bruni's review is the better one? (especially when considering the intended audience is not the microscopic one of foodboard people)

ah...ok...we got there at around 8:15 and I was quite surprised to not be eating until close to 9:30..

whoops! do try the Modern #2.

the new food menu features a selected cocktail pairing with each dish (including classics not on the menu)..

it was absolutely packed last night. over an hour wait. apparently Bruni's review had an effect. bamboo shoots were great and every bit the equal of the S&T cold dishes. duck tongue (really jaw) just didn't work for me....like chicken feet...couldn't find any flavor. the sauce was good. their version of "enhanced pork" (bacon) suffered from a salt overload. whole bass featured perfectly cooked fish but the sauce needed more...something... sesame noodles were the best version of that dish I've had. refreshing with a decent kick. fried lamb with cumin and peppers was good. as we were leaving I noticed a chalkboard with specials...oops...the goat and beef tendon dishes looked especially interesting...

another worthy sloe gin cocktail from the Savoy: The Savoy Tango. half gin, half applejack (used Laird's Bonded). playing with this last night at Pegu. it just works.

I'd already mentioned this up the thread a couple months ago, but it's now confirmed. Ssam Bar is expanding. http://eater.com/archives/2008/07/eaterwir...e_next_door.php

its kind of standard operating procedure in Batali/Bastianich restaurants. I remember once walking into Lupa with a friend at a similar time and telling the bartender we intended to eat. he promptly kicked a young woman drinking wine out of her bar seats (she was holding on to one for a tardy friend) so we could sit and order. she looked rather disgruntled. I was happy. the reality is, those restaurants have a specific dining format and, due to their popularity, they can do it.

without knowing the restaurant it's impossible to say whether it's a contravention of their normal operating procedures....but it's a policy that would make business sense for some restaurants...for others it would be a mistake.

FG is exactly right (except that most of my favorites were ssam bar)