RobinsonCuisine

There is also a piece in Time Out and the associations with Suba are much closer than it appears from what I have heard (although I don't think Suba is involved financially---Suba is where Urena last worked and first got to try his Spanish style on the public). The pastry chef worked with Urena at Suba and the wine list is being done by the Suba sommelier according to friends in the wholesale wine trade. Its interesting to hear people knock Suba which I always think is residual from before Alex started as chef there and the owners decided to change the tone of the restaurant. They succeeded in changing it from a "scene" in a gimmicky space, similar to so many other LES places and the meatpacking district, into a restaurant with serious culinary pretensions and managed to do so pretty successfully attracting notice from the serious food and wine press--which is a rare feat without shutting down and re-imaging. Alex is still listed as the consulting chef according to the Suba website. True, there is still an element of the old crowd (especially the weekends), but at least now they are getting well thought out food and wine with good service rather than the run of the mill that permeates the rest of the neighborhood (with some exceptions--WD, Thor, etc.).

I always check out a restaurant's site before reserving (or if a guest of someone else, to prepare myself for what is to come). Easy to navigate can be the deciding factor on making a reservation, accurate data is very important (I hate out of date menus/wine lists or incorrect information), but the biggest peeve is not being able to get through on the phone after all the time I've taken.

<<<So "take it with a grain of salt".........>>>> But this is the context everyone should take when considering any critics review. My experience will not be the same as yours etc. Tim Zagat is well known to most of the high ranking restaurants in his guide experiencing perks etc that the rest of us don't and there is no way you can tell me this doesn't influence the rankings and reviews in his book. Likewise, Bruni is a well known face and receives service/dining experience far and above the rest of us. Look at the divergence on this forum from the posters known to the chefs/owners and the unknowns. Its all subjective.

Eater has a press release detailing how the stars etc. are awarded which explains why Spotted Pig was included as the stars ONLY refer to what is on the plate with seperate ratings/symbols offered for comfort etc. Not that I agree with Spotted Pig being rated higher than some other not starred restaurants, but it makes more sense than if the stars were awarded on the entire dining experience.

I cannot imagine not going to a table that had requested my advice. At the same time, the offer of unsolicited advice can be met with a chilly reception and work against you. Give the sommelier parameters, i.e. red or white, likes, dislikes, budget (if this is a concern (and there is nothing wrong with that and don't say "reasonable" when talking price, thats too subjective, give a price range)). I ask these questions if they aren't offered. The answers I receive give me a profile of the customer and I base my suggestions from there--safe, unadventurous--open, willing to try something new--clueless, suspicious--experienced--cheap (dripping in jewels and furs and complaining about the high prices while ordering the most inexpensive bottle on the list ($25-$30)and then complaining that it doesn't taste like the priciest ($300+). It won't. Its not supposed too.). I always point out the choice that comes closest to the description of the wine regardless of the price, but then offer several other choices that will work within the cost structure. If there is no clear consensus in regard to variety or region, I may make suggestions that are no where near what was originally requested but which I feel work with the food. My job is to insure that the wines on my list are quality regardless of the price and compliment the menu. And I agree with an earlier poster who said that lower prices do not always mean higher sales. Quality and variety insure sales and return customers.

My experience as a wine director has been that only one in five customers will call in advance to ask if BYOB is allowed and if there is a corkage. The other four will almost always complain when corkage (ours is only $20) is added to the bill. One in eight will offer a taste to the staff and only one in nine will offer a taste to the sommelier or purchase another bottle from the list. I understand BYOB (especially if its a rare bottle or one of special significance), but many hours have gone into the planning, purchase and organization of the list. It is a very complicated process dealing with the law, suppliers, minimum order requirements, storage, training, owners etc etc. BYOB is a bit of an insult in that regard (imagine the chef's response if you brought your own food--and I've seen it tried, kosher being the exception). I'm always dumbfounded by the customer who brings in a mediocre bottle, never extends a hand or greeting to myself or the steward on duty and then stiffs the wait staff who have been pouring, polishing and tending to their wine needs for the evening..........the norm. Sommeliers love good wine. Thats why we hold the jobs we do (God knows its not for the money or an easy life). If a customer brings in something wonderful, I consider it a point of pride that he feels my restaurant is worthy of his treasure and in fairness, these customers almost always ask to meet me and offer a taste because they love wine as much as I do and want to chat about our common interest. They are just too few and far between.

So, off I went to meet two friends at BLT Fish. I had read the previous postings and wasn't expecting much. After speaking on the phone with a hostess, I expected even less. But the date was set, so off I went. And I'm glad I did. Yes, the hostesses are dumb as a box of hair. I'm always amazed when someone invests good money to open a culinary den and then hires a total dimwit as the first impression. I digress......first.......BLT Fish is NOT an oceanic version of BLT Steak. That will happen upstairs. The ground floor is a faux fish shack with terrific food, good drinks/wine (at decent prices), great music, unfortunate decor (think Shoney's by the design team at Sears) filled with aging frat boys and ticking clocks looking over the shoulder of their fellow conversationalist hoping for something better to walk in. But forget the crowd and have fun. Once past the robotatrons, the staff (beginning with coat check) was friendly, knowledgeable, sharp and refreshingly short of ingredient lists. We all had the New England Clam Chowder. Full of flavor, a bit heavy on the bacon (but I think that was a choice) and not at all stingy at $4 a cup. Then we tackled the large seafood plater. It was enormous. Great clams, oysters, periwinkles etc. Only complaint was the cerviche--too much cure, not enough to be cured. We downed a friendly Riesling and were sated. Ordered desserts, which left us over-stuffed. Desserts won't rock the world, but they are equally as good or better than those I have had at many of the highly touted new restaurants that have opened in the past year or so. This is one of the smartest business moves I have seen in ages. It will serve as a cash cow to keep the upstairs high-end location running smoothly and customers and owner(s) alike, happy.

Agreed. But it shouldn't be obvious. Every guest wants to feel that they are just as important to the owner as the next. Again, I don't think Kunz wants the service at his restaurant to be so disproportionate. CG had gone through months of private parties and several weeks of friends and family before the official opening. Service has been confused and irratic with no sign of improvement during the entire process. The Times routinely reviews new restaurants after two-three months from the official opening. It may be unfair to review so soon, but it would be more unfair to give extra time to some and less to others before taking them to task.

If that's true, that's despicable and inexcusable. ← I don't believe it is done on purpose and certainly don't want to infer that Kunz would sanction it. Its a case where the front of house management aren't doing their job to insure that every guest is treated well so that those who are receiving special treatment (i.e Kunz personally taking charge of the table), don't stick out and every guest leaves feeling they were appreciated not just for their money, but for their company. Another way of looking at it is that no guest should feel like they have to demand Kunz himself come to their table to insure that they receive the dining experience he wants all his guests to enjoy.

I also agree with the rating from Mr. (today's word is "skews") Bruni, although I had considered that it might get only one. From talking to and reading of others who have dined at Cafe Grey, there seems to be a direct correlation to the dining experience that depends on knowing Kunz personally or of him knowing that you are a member of the restaurant profession, i.e. those whom he has taken a personal interest in come away with glowing reports while those who are "regular Joes" leave disapointed and its a huge gulf between the known and unknown. This is the fault of Kunz, certainly, but mostly his front of house. I believe he is making changes to correct this, but it is a problem that was apparent before the doors opened and should have been fixed at that time. I enjoyed the food at Cafe Grey for the most part, but not my dining experience. I expected much more considering the extensive/exhaustive training period the staff had gone through prior to opening, the reputation of the management and Kunz's background.

Gray Kuntz is a genius and so highly regarded (deservedly) that it is hurtful to say anything negative.............but............imho, Cafe Gray is a mess. The food is the high point. My pork shank was wonderful, tender, flavorful and the bean stew it was served with, the perfect counterpoint. The tomato coulis starter was delicous. Mushroom risotto less thrilling (thin and deconstructed) and the duck was disapointing (muscular and tough). Oysters were badly overdressed and the hazelnut souffle was bland (the drama of the presentation was the high point of the night however). These complaints must be put in perspective. Kuntz's food is some of the best in town at its worst let alone at its best. If only everything else at CG measured up. The wine list is short and boring, especially the French (stick to the Italian and Austrian). Wines by the glass and dessert wines are limited and pedestrian at best. The room is weird (very 70's hotel, which suits the building I admit). I saw several guests opting to face away from the kitchen (which is between the dining room and the windows). My own chair faced the cold station which closed halfway through my meal and made me feel awkward--nothing like watching the staff clean, turn off the lights etc. to realize your enjoyment is not their priority (it was only 10:15 and the room 3/4 full). The colors are all drab browns and beige. It would take a lot of pink gels and gauze over the lens to make you look good in this space. Service---it felt/looked like there were three servers/managers per guest and yet it took 20 minutes after being seated (on time) to get a menu and I had to request the wine list. The bartender (we arrived early for drinks) seemed professional, informative and pleasant but we were presented every dish ordered at the bar except our own (the already mentioned oysters) by the support staff. At the table, I had to ask someone in the kitchen to find our waiter when we got tired of waiting for them to return to take our order (I don't know how many more signals short of a Kermie scream I could have sent, it was 10 minutes after we laid the menus aside before I gave up and asked for help despite a plethora of managers/staff in the area--ordering dessert was looking to be the same experience so I waved down a busboy who took the order). In contrast, the sommelier was upon us offering help almost the minute I opened the list, but refused to make eye contact on any of his visits and refused to open the bottle we chose at the table (my guest thinks the foil had been removed prior to being presented). Our primary server was very nice but underinformed and there are clearly communication problems....we were served the same amuse three times for example. As usual, the busboy was the only person with any sense of what was going on and was the most helpful. It is also telling that the minute the check was signed, all floor personel disapeared leaving no one to even offer a "good night" on our exit. I would overlook most of these--things happen and none of them are devastating on their own, but it became a landslide of inepitude as they accumulated. We didn't over order but it cost just under $200 each including 20% grats with the dining experience taking over three hours and no lingering on our part. I assign the problems we experienced to poor management, not poor servers so didn't punish them. I know they just opened but at this price point, the wildly extended training period, the hype and in consideration of the reputed reputation of the management, it should be much more organized. The biggest insult, however, is when you are leaving. As you descend the esculator into the mall, past the night janitors, dark shops and into the lobby (complete with SUV demo) you come face to face with a bronze statue of a huge ass--human variety. No wonder Keller is demanding a seperate elevator for his patrons.

I love Gavroche. I have from my first visit right after they opened and many, many times since. While I find Mr. Bruni a weak reviewer, I am glad he has seen fit to elevate this little gem to the ranks of the big boys by giving it a serious review. The food is terrific. The setting charming. Prices good. While service is spotty (sometimes seriously so) it has always been well meaning and I never fail to feel they are truly happy I dined there. I only hope the one star is not taken as a sign of weakness but is understood that this restaurant is good enough to be held to the same standards as those who have far more resources, better press contacts and bigger names.

I feel much the same. The Times review and the stars awarded used to be the benchmark by which a restaurant could market itself. But now, when relating your merits and notices for potential guests, you have to qualify which reviewer wrote about you as many no longer consider the Times a valid barometer. And perhaps thats not such a bad thing.

Any re-review has to include historical context. The purpose is to refresh the professional, critical opinion for the reader's information just as a first review is to introduce the reader to a new experience. If there have been major changes for the good, it bolsters the reputation of the restaurant and should lead the reader to feel more confident in its ability to provide a pleasant dining experience. If they have maintained their status, that shows consistancy while a demotion has to have a basis to work from. But I don't think it is necessary to damn the place to hell over a demotion from four to three. Three means *excellent* and that review did not describe an excellent experience.

Wouldn't it also be technically illegal for you, as management, to accept a tip offered directly? Not a gratuity intended directly for myself that is seperate from the floor staff tip. No different than being tipped for arranging for a favorite table to be held, making sure flowers have been placed in advance or not mentioning that the last time the gentleman was in his lady guest wasn't his wife. <g> The law is designed to prevent restaurant owners from taking the tips intended for serving staff (because this is legally how they make their income) and using them to pay salaried employees, i.e. the kitchen, management, porters etc. My responses are pertinent to NYC and NYState law as that is where I have been based for the past several years.

I'm not so much disapointed at Bouley losing a star....they are in very good company in that respect.....but out of three reviews, two have been re-reviews and both only served to confirm public and industry opinion........that is.......they brought nothing new to the table and, IMHO, that is a waste of type. There are thousands of new restaurants waiting for the chance to be mentioned-good or bad- and many other excellent but struggling restaurants that could use the publicity of a Times review. If he is going to focus on re-reviews, lets correct the mistakes of the past 6 months (Asiate? Spice Market?) or give the dining public (and the industry) new information to work from.

It varies from restaurant to restaurant. I recieve a salary, but no commission and no percentage of the tip pool (I am considered management (I wear a couple of hats) and therefore technically it is illegal for me to be included in the tip pool). I agree with the statement that many wine professionals, management level personel in NYC are picking up extra shifts etc to make ends meet which is a shame. $30,000-$75,000 sounds like a huge salary to my family in the midwest, but it is survival money here in the city and often the wine steward is the first position to be cut when a restaurant finds itself in financial trouble.

There are no hard and fast rules to tipping. There are guidelines and there is good breeding. (Sorry, had to throw that in <g>). If someone enhanced your experience, a gratuity is not out of line and I too am of the school that if I am not willing/able to tip on the entire bill, I won't eat out. (Side bar--when in a foreign country, I ask what the custom is and then leave a bit more....except in France where over tipping is considered just as rude as not tipping). In the USA, servers legally earn 1/2 the minimum wage but are taxed on 15% of restaurant sales as it is assumed they make that much in tips. This means that the US government assumes the tip average is 20% as servers tip out runners, bar, bussers, etc. Sommeliers/Wine directors/Wine Stewards are sometimes included in this pool, sometimes not. They accepted the job knowing full well what their potential earnings would be. Most are in this line of work out of love of the juice, not necessity, and accept that they often are underappreciated by the general dining public (as are the kitchen crew). I never expect a tip for helping a diner choose a wine and never ignore a request for help or a suggestion. I get a great deal of pleasure from the guest's enjoyment of my suggestion from the wine list I constantly work on. But those guests who remember me with a token of their appreciation are the guests I dote on....saving a last bottle of a favorite vintage......keeping that guest in mind when tasting and ordering........taking extra steps for. And why shouldn't I? They have shown that they appreciate my efforts and deserve to be thanked for that consideration.

The obvious display of money (especially a gratuity) is considered gauche (an exception is at a bar where a check presenter is rarely used). Flashing the demomination or amount of the gratuity is even worse. It is considered rude to the person being tipped. As for unethical......well......*buying* a table is not unheard of in restaurants which have a feature that is in great demand. I don't consider it a good business practice, but if greasing the wheel is the means to an end.........?

Most restaurants in NYC include the wine director/sommeiler in the tip pool or pay them as a manager. Either way, its rarely what they are worth. I have never understood the concern people have with *over tipping.* If the wine steward has enhanced your evening, a discrete (discrete, because the obvious presentation of money is in very bad taste) gratuity is welcome. Same goes with *buying* a table when you don't have a reservation. If you are obvious about the exchange of cash, you cause serious problems for the host.

I"ll second that Gotham, Union Square, Babbo and Jefferson are all great for solo dining at the bar. I've been rudely greeted by the hosts at Gotham, but the staff inside have always been terrific. Never had a problem of any kind at the others. Didn't like Gramercy (poor service/limited menu) and both Landmarc and Spice Market were huge disapointments on all levels. Pastis, Balthazar and Shiller's are fun for brunch or late night as there is always a good buzz.

So, first I thought it was another "I'm sleeping with the chef so its going to be a rave" and then turned into "Ruth Reichl dissing a big fish and docking them a star" and ended being a wet fish that meant nothing. I like Babbo, but did that review represent the restaurant the regular Joe experiences? I expected(hoped) for more. Frank Bruni was a bureau chief in Rome and starts his career as a food critic reviewing already well received Italian restaurants (as noted in the piece as if to say *I need qualifications from the past to give me clout"). Considering the debacle that was Amanda Hesser(and her lack of journalistic ethics), I would expect the Times to eliminate any taint of favoritism. Either they have no faith in Bruni, or he is sleeping with Buttali (which I doubt (in a physical sense) although the insider knowledge of his footwear is suspect). It was a bad start.

Michelin is a nationally recognized brand name of long standing (albeit primarily for automotive products and a cuddly mascot) and will not suffer any sort of backlash for being French based. Among the culinary crowd, Guide Michelin is internationally known and will be courted by the NY restaurant industry tooth and nail. Michelin stars will hold the same, and, depending on how unimpeachable the credibility of the reviewers, perhaps more sway/prestige than the NYTimes. With few exceptions, top chefs are French trained (and those who aren't have a French trained second in command) and will covet a Michelin star like a starlet an Oscar. Its true that the volativity of the NY restaurant scene will make it hard for the Guide to keep up to date, but as it stands the lower end guides which are published more frequently (Zagat, Time Out) are nearly 25-40% incorrect by time they hit the stands. Even the on-line sites have trouble keeping true. I think it will be a welcome addition to the city and hope it will raise the bar for culinary criticism.