bhelpuri

Thanks for responding, Episure. I must tell you that I have really enjoyed going back in this folder, your posts have been excellent, colorful and highly informative reading. Many favorites, but one that stands out is the Ramzan thread (could have used some of the Info on M. Ali road last month). Great, great, job (and to Vikram too), a real pleasure to find on the Internet. -- Karim's is one of those restaurants that ride on the cusp of suitability, no? I'd recommend that all visitors to Delhi take a couple of hours to wander in the amazing congestion around Jama Masjid, including a visit to Karim's to see the giant biriyanis being made. But I'm not sure it's advisable to actually eat there for a first-time/short-term visitor. My instinct would be to say no, maybe - if you're really intent on it - the Nizammudin cousin (which always seems to have Westerners present).

What? Have I killed this thread (and Akiko) with my voluminous recommendations? And where is my welcome, desi brethren? -- I forgot to mention The Dhaba, quite a charming restaurant in the Claridge's Hotel. The property itself is a bit like the Imperial, a throw-back to "old" New Delhi before the five-star monoliths went up. And the restaurant is rather interesting, with half a lorry up on its walls and pretty careful clean-and-upmarket renditions of the food from classic North Indian roadside stalls. See, Akiko, you really don't want to actually eat from the roadside. Definitely not on your first trip, when each day is going to be valuable. There are some really bad bugs out there, 'Delhi Belly' is not necessarily a two-day bout with something relatively innocuous. Google Delhi and Dysentery if you want ample corroboration of this. So, The Dhaba is one of those places where you can get a very good idea of what Indian street-food lovers are talking about - but at minimum risk.

How very interesting, markk. When I first moved to this area, I ordered take-away from that restaurant and it was abysmally bad. So bad, in fact, that I started to learn how to cook Chinese dishes myself because I figured even a rank amateur would do better (and there was no other restaurant suitably close by). But I see, on looking at the website, that this really is a buffet-type restaurant and take-away was probably both unrepresentative and unwise. Also, I seem to remember peeking at the buffet while I was there long ago, and finding it sparse - you've helpfully explained why. So, good tip, I will check it out. Thanks. --- Scott, Good thread. I'll give the 'ethnic neighborhoods' list a shot, but in return you have to tell me what you intend on buying at the halal butcher. Caveats - I haven't explored all that very much in this state, and have only been resident for four years. I will do more of it now that I'm starting to become resigned to being a long-term New Jerseyite. Plus, you guys have already pretty much covered all of it. Also, we're occasionally talking about one large store/complex rather than a true enclave. 1) Indian - Edison, Jersey City 2) Filipino - Jersey City 3) Puerto Rican - Jersey City 4) Arab - Paterson, Jersey City 5) Portuguese - Newark's Ironbound. 6) Brazilian - Newark's Ironbound. 7) Korean - Fort Lee 8) Japanese - Edgewater 9) Colombian - West New York 10) Ecuadorian - West New York 11) Italian - Hoboken 12) Cuban - Elizabeth

Brian Yarvin, I forgot to respond to you. Looked at your website, very cool images and a great project. My personal interest is in the ethnic foods available in this state. Given the extremely high concentrations of immigrants, from quite an impressive range of countries, there are great unsung neighborhoods, restaurants, and grocery stores scattered in all kinds of unlikely places. Would love to know what exploration you've done on these lines, maybe we can make up a list of ethnic enclaves. I can think of at least ten right off the bat.

Scott, Al-Huda, the very decent Middle eastern grocery, is located on Central about a block up from Franklin, heading away from that church on the end. I'm going to find out, this weekend, if there is a bigger and more comprehensive store somewhere in Jersey City. There must be, this place has a lot of Arabs. I know that there are excellent stores up in Paterson, perhaps one has a branch here. -- I'm afraid I don't know the names of the Halal stores on Newark, even though I visit them very regularly. However, if you are heading down into that (very) Little India section from the White Castle there is one almost immediately on your right, and then one across the street. Of the two, I much prefer the one on the right. They're both Pakistani, both a teensy bit unclean - let's face it - but the one on the right is better and the younger butcher is wonderfully expert with his knives and will clean your meat in a speedy, top-notch, manner. Plus, I have gone to the freezer rooms in both places and you really don't want to visit the one attached to the one on the left. The price list for the superior one is pictured below - The question is, what do you go to a halal butcher for? I generally go for three things (all available at both of these stores, all of very good quality at the one I favor). 1) Goat. 2) Spiced-up chicken mince, for kebabs. 3) Frozen subcontinental-type fish (especially pomfrets). Assuming that you want goat (the main attraction at Jersey City halal butchers), there is a whole strategy involved in buying the right meat, in the right quantity, for the dish you have in mind. It is generally a mistake to buy the odds-and-ends in a jumble under the counter. The best way to do it is to survey the beast, and make your call based on what you have in mind to cook.

Ms. Nox, How long have you lived in Jersey City? I'm a relative newcomer, just over four years. Well maybe here is where I start reciprocating. Not far from you, down the road in West New York, is a gem of a Ecuadorian restaurant. It's off Bergenline, called La Vasija de Barro. Can't recommend it highly enough, really. It's in the same general vein as your taqueria, but rather than being earthy it reflects the ethos and culture of the Ecuadorian intelligentsia. It's hip (but tiny), the food is fantastic including the best tamales (called hayacas) you're likely to find anywhere. Particularly recommended is the unique, filling, encebollado : This is a Sunday treat, a soup/stew made with kernels of fresh maize, tuna, lots of red onions, yucca, cilantro, lime, scallions and more. Check it out (when your gums heal), you will not be disappointed, it's a special place.

Do not go to Parathewali Gully, unless you get your kicks from playing culinary Russian roulette. You have one week in India, you get no traveller brownie points for spending six of those days circulating no more than 30 feet from a toilet. It's not tough or cool to get dysentery.

Given the level of expertise available on these boards, the advice given to Akiko is surprisingly threadbare. 1) The best, most accessible, book on Delhi is by a very fine Brit/Scot travel writer, William Dalrymple. The title - CITY OF DJINNS: A YEAR IN DELHI. I'd read it before going, but if you cannot - don't worry - you can easily buy it in Delhi. Another fine book, with more of a novelistic historical bent, is written by India's cranky old man of letters, Khushwant Singh. It's simply called Delhi. 2) It's actually great that you're staying at the Imperial, I congratulate you. Most salarymen from multinationals stay at the giant, self-contained, Hyatts, Oberois and Taj's of Delhi. The Imperial, despite a brainless renovation, has character and a location where you can simply wander out and into the heart of the city. There was a time, not long ago, where the Imperial's verandah bar still gave you a wonderful Raj-era experience of open green lawns and comfortable cane furniture. It's (ugh) five-star, now, but you can idle away an afternoon tea in the same space where Jawaharlal Nehru and Galbraith did exactly the same thing, so why not. 3) Delhi has a couple of excellent bookstores. Even though you're there for such a short period of time I recommend you go to one on your first morning (after breakfast on the renovated verandah, naturally), the one at Khan market is good, but your hotel may have a better one in mind. Get the Dalrymple book if you haven't already, and sift through the rest of the Delhi selection carefully. This city, more than the others in India, has had a significant expat population from the beginning (and is home to most of India's publishing world) and thus there are lots of interesting, detailed, things written about it. 4) You will have a car (and driver) most of the time, I'm assuming. Use it, diligently. Your hotel will direct you to Cottage Industries, and other places. Your hotel is well situated for Connaught Place and also for Chandni Chowk. From your comments, this last place may be to your liking since it has a whole area (Dariba) specializing in silver jewellery, there is also a colorful spice market nearby. I would probably recommend that you ask your driver to go with you when you're wandering - ask for an English speaking one and tip him the equivalent of 5 pounds at the end of the day. I direct all of my friends to Santushti Complex, and urge you to go there on your first day itself. It's a completely unintimidating way to check out a range of boutiques selling much of the best stuff India produces in the fashion/design/fabric/"ethnic" general range. I find that most people like Shyam Ahuja (for excellent, "modern", stylish, "dhurrie" rugs) and Anokhi. This last is a stop for high-quality handmade fabric, housewares and clothes, I think the 'Monsoon' stores in the UK used to carry their stuff (if that helps you peg it), I just bought several short kurtas (kurtis) there as gifts and they are swooned over here . I also recommend a couple of hours spent at Hauz Khas "village", it's another foreigner-friendly shopping/eating area, though perhaps more interesting at night. 5) Delhi has some can't-miss/don't miss architectural sites. I will leave you to Dalrymple to make your choices. But, if you were one of my friends, I would recommend going to Lodi Gardens at 6 AM or so one morning to witness some of Delhi at its core - middle-class and elite aunties and uncles dressed in salwar-kameez and shorts and sneakers, charging around a truly ancient garden area with some lovely structures strewn around. You saw Monsoon Wedding, right (great contemporary Delhi Punjabi movie), this is what those people do for exercise. 6) I highly recommend at least one Indian-Chinese meal, the food is quite interesting and when made well can be really very good. Your hotel is not a bad place to enquire about the current popular favorite, but I do know that 'Lotus Pond' and 'Near East' are very popular with locals. In this area, I disagree with one of the previous posters, the Five-star hotel Chinese restos may be the way to go. For instance, The Tea House of the August Moon happens to be super, and it is not "authentic" Chinese at all. 7) Your sari question is hard to answer from a distance, because Delhi is the epicenter of a mind-bogglingly varied and giant fabric/textile/exports world. For one thing, you can't buy sari fabric (in general) you can only buy saris. For another, the list of stores, and entire areas, where you can get the stuff is endless (and includes the Chandni Chowk area). Here are my brief pointers. - buy this stuff in Delhi, not Jaipur - Visit the Khazana boutique at the Taj Mansingh and get an idea of what you want, then ask the salesperson where else you can get this stuff. - Feel free to accost well-dressed Indian women, compliment them on their saris and ask where you can see good quality/reasonably-priced fabric of the same kind. 8) Finally (I have more, but I'm getting tired from the typing), do buy jewellery in Jaipur. Some of the finest craftsmen in the entire world operate from there. If you're in the mood for a bit of an adventure, ask the hotel to send you to the modest-looking shop run by the Surana family (in the old city). These fellows have been in the business of adorning royalty for at least 250 years, and why not add yourself to the list? Leave your husband behind, and be sure to take wodges of cash because credit cards carry a smallish premium which add up to largeish if you're buying diamonds (as I hope you will). Actually, the Suranas will be happy to collect the cash from your hotel, if your husband objects to youy decamping into old Jaipur with three months of his salary in rupee bundles... Have fun, it's a very hard trip to do in such a short time, but if you take care of yourself and maintain a manageable pace - it can be memorable.

But, Ms. Nox, I was not done, as there were several other places to do my due diligence about. For some reason, I've skimmed this neighborhood. Our expeditions generally head city-wards, or to Newark Avenue, or occasionally center in the downtown area. But this survey opened my eyes, there are two or three places I'm definitely going back to. One is that excellent Supremo supermarket, which kicks the ass of all the other supermarkets I've seen in Jersey City, and might help salve the wound left by the departure of Foodmart International. They had fresh tamarind, they had a very decent fresh fish selection. I made a point of checking out your claim of "at least 5 brands of crema" and found it modest. In fact they have eight different kinds of crema. Yes, Ms. Nox, my feelings towards you are QUITE warm, you are very reliable. -- Back on Central Avenue, I found one salumeria (Andrea) packed with policemen buying their sandwiches heavy with "mooz". A solid neighborhood American-Italian deli. A bit further on, there was the other salumeria, this one a bit more interesting and a fine source for fresh ricotta, sausages and all variety of imported Italian stuff. It's not Arthur Avenue, it's not even Mulberry Street, but it is in relatively close vicinity to my home so I felt it necessary to purchase a token soppresata (the one being picked out, below) even though we really don't need it. Not sure I'll be a constant visitor, since the other options I mentioned are always convenient on some trip or the other across the river. But maybe I'll check out the fresh-baked bread one weekend. -- But the place pictured below, I will certainly return to. It's the Middle Eastern grocery store I suspected was in my area but had not found till now. It's comprehensive (though I will still use my usual halal butcher on Newark), with a fine selection of all the basics and a sizeable selection of prepared foods. Not food related, but something curious happened to me in that store. I strode inside and engaged the counter person with some questions about the dried fruits he sells in quantity. I got that feeling, you know, that someone wanted to get by me. Turned around, no one. Then I hear a soft rustle, and turn around again and there is a pigeon standing confidently behind me. By instinct, I stepped aside. And the pigeon walked on by me, to the back of the store - and get this - walks unperturbed all the way into the rear room. The counter person said that this pigeon visits every day. -- Anyway, Ms. Nox, I do owe you. Let me know if there is any way I can reciprocate, and thanks.

Well, nixienox, I owe you. Much sooner than I'd anticipated, I found myself in the neighborhood with some time to kill and took it upon myself to check out each of your recommendations (with camera in tow). Here are my findings. -- Cinco de Mayo Taqueria Immediately interesting, they've got a repeat customer in me. The containers of pulque and very reasonably priced ingredients at the entrance showed off genuine credentials. The clientele at the time was all-Mexican, workers in the area stopping off for solitary, hearty, meals. This was promising, as was the bright young woman behind the counter. Plus, the decor was simple yet, like, 20 times more appealing than the Chinese-run tortilla joints that infest our region. Warm, clean, inviting (gotta love the Rivera poster). And the menu was also a cut above the usual, with a real tip of the hat to honest Mexican country fare. Thought about getting the tongue, but settled for the plate of barbecued goat pictured below. Looks hefty. Wasn't. Inhaled it in about five minutes, and all of that - plus a big old bag of dried anchos to restock my larder - came to an even tenner. Dear nixienox, I've become quite fond of you after that meal. May I call you nixie, now? Or maybe just Ms. Nox for short?

Nixienox, Your suggestions are all exactly what I've been looking for, particularly the salumerias. I knew that a town with such deep Italian roots had to have 'em somewhere. Thanks, I'll report back after I check them out.

"There's been a bunch of discussions on JC restaurants. Unfortunately, there's not a whole lot to choose from." Yes, I've been to all the places you list and remain largely unmoved. La Conguita (the small Cuban-owned, neighborhood restaurant just off Grove) is probably the family favorite. The food is always nicely done, and very reasonably priced - as you mention. The empanadas are excellent, the Cuban sandwiches too. Plus, my four-year-old and I really like their banana/chocolate batidos, chowing down at that place has become a weekend ritual. "As for the Indian eateries on Newark, I can live without them." I wouldn't be quite so hasty or dismissive. There is precious little atmosphere, or fine-dining ambience, in the restaurants on Newark Ave. However, over the years, the street has become a proper high-intensity little subcontinental ghetto and has some perfectly good food on offer at the restaurants. You can get dosas and other S. Indian food that are as good as anything you get in the city (much cheaper), all kinds of other very decent Indian street food (like my 'name', bhelpuri), and even (average) Indian-Chinese food.

I'm more interested, when it comes down to it, in where people shop for food items in Jersey City. It's an interesting place for ethnic groceries, even after the demise of the gargantuan and superb Foodmart International. You have a whole row of excellent Indian/subcontinental produce stores on Newark Avenue. Both there and in other places you also have really good Halal butchers which will set you up with everything from whole goats to pre-spiced minced chicken for kebabs. I haven't yet found a particularly good ME grocer, but there must be one (let me know, please) since J. City has more Arabs resident than any other US city except Dearborn in Michigan. Then, there are very solid Puerto Rican and Dominican grocers including the La Conga supermarket/dump which will hook you up with the best chorizos (Colombian, as it happens) I've ever tasted. Plus, you have the great riches of the Ironbound very near by, which has the best, freshest, most reasonably-priced seafood you can get anywhere in the region including various Chinatowns, and absolutely top-notch bakeries, and the always-excellent meat department at Seabra's Supermarket, and plenty more. --- But bring on the restaurant recommendations, I lean more heavily to semi-unique ethnic dives than to ersatz Manhattanite bistros.

So, let's have that Jersey City thread already.