wineserver

Toro Albala is imported by Classical Wines in Seattle, Washington. Pedro Ximenez is the grape and Montilla-Moriles is the Denominacion de Origen in Spain. These wines are close cousins to Sherry, geographically close too, but the Pedro Ximinex is the dominant grape in M-M for both dry and sweet fortified wines. In Sherry, PX is bottled varietally but much more rarely and more often used as a sweetening agent. I am thrilled to hear a restaurateur took the time to promote this wine. Might I ask where this was? By the way, the current vintage bottling, 2000, is delicious and one of the best values in sweet and sticky.

I understand why serious wine enthusiasts have issues with state regualtions on beverage alcohol. State legislatures have become the well rewrded guard dog for the WSWA. Since the repeal of the 21st Amendment the wholesale industry has helped shape state laws to their best advantage. However, even if the problems that exist today are corrected, alcohol is a narcotic and as such will always fall under governtmental regualtion. There is not a civilized country on the planet where this is not the case. Not only is alcohol a drug, it is a recreational drug making it the perfect target for tax revenue generation at the state and federal level. There will never be a completely free market for beverage alcohol. Meanwhile, the fact remains the gray market problem can be solved by the producers themselves. They must cease selling wine to those that erode their ability to protect their wines integrity and yes, part of integrity is price point. We have adressed this issue with two of our producers directly and they are aware of the problem and needless to say they are not pleased by the Califronia situation. We are currently exploring all legal remedies and the producers plan to exercise greater due diligence in to whom they sell their wines.

In January the Confrerie de la Chaine de Rotisseurs begins their 2004 Young Sommelier Competition with regional contests. There is no fee, but there is an application process and each candidate must have a member of the Chaine as a sponsor. Most importantly, candidates must be younger than 33 years of age in the calendar year 2004. Please review this link for details, Chaine Sommelier Competition Information. The regional and national competitions will be based on the Advanced Exam of the Court of Master Sommeliers and will include theory, tasting, and practical (service) examinations. One winner from each regional competition will compete in the national final to be held at Chalk Hill Winery in May 2004. Please contact me with any questions. Thanks for your assistance. Please pass this on to any candidates that might have an interest. Thank you

I have no problem with the sale of a private cellar through a legally appointed auction. I do not believe I have the right to prevent a consumer from selling a wine through legally accepted means. That is not the case here. There is a difference between secondary market and gray market. The reason you can acquire the same Bordeaux chateau through a number of different importers is an antiquated system that I believe actually results in additional costs and collusion.

As I stated in another discussion, the three tiered system of distribution and the rights of wine consumers across the country can coexist. If I were to take a poll, I am confident I would find that the wine conusmers' biggest complaints would be first and foremost availability and, not far behind, price. I am in the wine distribution business and I cannot see how the WSWA can stand in the way of a constitutional right to unimpeded interstate commerce. WSWA arguments are typically ridiculous and contrived. If a wine consumer cannot procure the wine of his or her desire in their state of residence, there should be nothing preventing them from procuring it from another state. If the wine is available but the price is not competitive with the national market, there should be nothing preventing them from procuring it from another state. However, I would like to present a realistic picture of availability and price. I know not all states are the same. I know in some states the government has a monopoly on selection, inventory, and price. Unfortunately for residents of those states there is little that can be done except to change the laws of that state. However, in FL, GA, NC, SC, and OH, states that I am very familiar with, I think even the most serious wine geek would be very surprised by the innumerable producers and wines that are available. Even the smallest production cherries are here save a very few. Now getting to them is another story. The third tier in this system is your local restaurateur or retailer. They, as a group of individuals, are as imposing a gate keeper as the WSWA. You can, however, request your local retailer to find something not currently on their shelf. In short, chances are the wine you want is available in your state. Its simply a matter of asking for it. Now, if you believe that prices are cheaper in other states or specifically from the large nationally known retailers, I once again think you would be surprised. As an example, you just gotta have Dalla Valle, Clos Erasmus, or Gagliole Pecchia (you get the point) by the time the wine arrives at your door you have saved little. And, with the wine market as competitve as its ever been, even the smallest winery can not rely on cellar door sales to meet its needs. These small wineries must appoint a wholesaler in select markets (yes I know not all markets will be selected) to deplete their inventory. As always, what appears on the surface to be a simple issue is actually very complicated. I look forward to a chance to further discuss this with all of you.

There has never been a better time to be a wine buyer. Quality internationally has never been higher. Availability of incredible diversity in the United States is better than most any country in the world. Even with the weaker dollar, prices are reasonable if not quiet the value of a the late 1990s. With such circumstances, there is no excuse for a cookie cutter wine program. Unfortunately, most restaurateurs do not see the benefit of dedicated wine buyer/sommelier to take advantage of these conditions. This would be an unnecassary cost in their eyes. They completely miss the obvious point. This position is an investment capable of paying for itself as well as driving greater revenues and profitability. Show me a restaurant with a capable and competent sommelier and I will show you a restaurant capable of meeting even the most discerning wine geek's needs.

Finally a challenge...Unfortunately you do misunderstand. I am not a wholesaler. The company I work for is an importer. We sell to the wholesaler and I was very clear in my previous statement about the three tiered system of distribution and consumer's rights. What we have in California is a system that allows the circumvention of a legally binding contract between my company and the producers we represent from the international market. As previously stated, we are the appointed, exclusive, legal importer for the United States with the exception of California where a loophole allows the exploitation of the gray market. I could be mistaken, but I belive this is the only state in the nation where this is legal. The District of Columbia has an unusual set of circumstances as well though I am not as familiar them. Are you saying that the producer of a product does not have the right to appoint a exclusive representative for its product?

Great advice from docsconz. Unless you have a particular favorite that is not available stateside, there is no practical reason to lug around the bubbles. Terry Thiese imports and markets an incredible range of the finest recoltant-manipulants. Kermit Lynch imports and markets J. Lassalle and Paul Bara. Duval-Leroy is once again availabe nationally after an initial nightmare of an introduction to the US. Stacole Company in Boca Raton, FL also imports and markets Egly-Ouriet and Oudinot. Obviously, no every single producer or label is available stateside, but I am confident in stating if its worth having, its here.

In the US, an $8.00 glass of wine is typically poured from a bottle that cost the restaurant between $8.00 and $12.00. This is a huge range but it oftens falls right in the middle. I would say that most operators want to run a 30% cost of goods on wine by the glass. Wine by the bottle is a different story with a sliding scale of margin most often employed. A bottle that cost the restaurant $8.00 is often sold for $24.00, while a bottle that cost the restaurant $24.00 is often sold for $60.00, and finally, a bottle that costs the restaurant over $50.00 is often sold for twice cost. These are just generalities but they are fairly accurate.

Though I have never had the pleasure of visiting England, its no secret that wine by the glass programs in the restaurant biz there are not the same as here in the United States. Approximately 15 to 18 years ago, the restaurant biz in the US realized the huge potential for sales and profit through offering a broader selection of higher quality wine by the glass. Truth is, I think many restaurateurs have gone way overboard with ridiculously huge numbers of by the glass, often with little true variety. Today, a good restaurant will offer some 8-15 wines by the glass and more often than not these wines are thoughtfully chosen, diverse, moderate to high quality selections. Wine by the glass pricing is often the steepest in terms of margin for the restaurant, but this is often used to balance a lower margin on wines sold by the bottle.

This also always stirs great controversy, particularly issue of restaurant wine prices. A magic, one-size-fits-all formulas does not exist. The construction and goals of a wine program for a restaurant in a high rent district in Gotham City should not be the same for an operation of similar scope in Cleveland, Ohio. Though both these restaurants strive to be the best in their respective markets, their markets and costs of operations are completely different. Though wine means so many things to us as enthusiasts, a restaurant is a business and wine is a vehicle for profit. This however allows for an incredible degree of freedom for the sommelier or proprietor to assemble and present a wine list that is at once creative, balanced, and profitable. I will grant you most restaurateurs do not offer premium service or selection but feel the right to charge premium prices. You have the right not to dine in these restaurants or further not to buy wine if you do dine. This one gem per page philosophy obviously says quiet a bit the sommelier who promotes it.

My mistake.

I know what I am about to say will cause great controversy, but damn the torpedos and full speed ahead. I am in the employ of one of the big, bad US importers that limits supply and protects its margins. Yeah right! In the most competitive wine market in history we are purposely limiting availability. As a sales represetative, I have for the last two years been adversely affected by the growing number of gray marketers in California specifically. I am the duly appointed, exclusive US importer for a number of superlative international producers, yet I must compete with retailers that only exist through a loophole in the laws of California. Please do not misunderstand. I fully support the right of consumers to shop the country on price and exercise their constitutional right to interstate commerce. I strongly believe that the three tier distribution system can coexist with complete consumer freedom to directly purchase and ship wine from the producer. The fact remains, however, that these small gray market retailers were not appointed by the producers. They are opportunistic pirates of a sort. This is not about the big corporate giant vs. the last of the small entrepeneurs. We were chosen by these producers because we can provide national distribution for all their wines not just their small production cherries. Importers like Kermit Lynch, Eric Solomon, Marc de Grazia, and many others that specialize in importing small estate producers from Europe will hardly be affected by this. The consumer in search of the best buy between $10 and $15 a bottle will not be affected by this measure. However, those wine enthusiasts in search of a back alley bargain on Europe's best small estates might be disappointed by the results of this security measure.

I was truly surprised to see Nicolas Joly mentioned only once in the 2 pages of discussion. Joly pioneered biodynamie in the realm of viticulture beginning in the early 1980s. He is widely regarded as the leading educator and practioner of this method. He preaches the benefits of biodynamie not with the zeal of a Pentacostal evangilist, but with thoughtful, passion and confidence. For those true wine geeks, his book Wine From Sky to Earth is an introduction of biodynamie for the layman.

As an addendum, Classical Wines also imports and exclusively markets the wines of one of my favorite estates, Dr. Burklin-Wolf of the Pfalz.

I have seen mention of Terry Theise and his portfolio that is available nationally through Michael Skurnik. Terry's German, Austrian, and Champagne selections represent nearly every great estate in these respective wine regions. However, I am extremely surprised no one mentioned Rudi Wiest and his import company, Cellars International. Rudi has been importing the blue chip German estate producers since the early 1980s. While Terry is the poet laureate (and best damn dirty joke teller) of the wine trade, Rudi conducts his business with a no nonsense, disciplined approach derived from his years as an electrical engineer with Ma Bell. Rudi has national distribution and exclusively represents such great estates as Robert Weil, Franz Kunstler, Karthauserhof, Reinhold Haart, Schloss Lieser, von Buhl, Gunderloch, and many, many others. His website offers incredible detail on not only these producers but German wine in general. Any mention of German wine in the United States is flawed without a mention of Rudi and Cellars International. In the end, A Terry Theise Selection and Cellars International are the only markers one need look for when buying great German wine. If you find these names on a German wine bottle, they guarantee quality.

Try this page for specific info on Bordeaux: Bordeaux Wine Class

There are innumerable web sites but here are a few of my favorites: Italian Made Great site on Italian wine from the Italian Trade Commission Australian Wine and Brandy Corporation This is an incredible site with that contains wine laws of any country that exports wine to Australia! Therefore, it is a comprehensive source of information. Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar This is the wine geeks wine critic. One of the best and most detail oriented wine reviews. Decanter Magazine On Line Wine from an English perspective, many of the contributing editors are Masters of Wine and the articles focus on substantive information rather than subjective, personal opinion. The Vine Clive Coates is the author of the newsletter The Vine. Coates epitomizes the harumphing, pheglmatic English style of review, but no one delivers more detail on the Bordeaux or Burgundy vintage. Cellars International This is the website of one of 2 leading importers of German wine in the United States. The site not only promotes the importers great estates it also clearly explains German wine and that is no easy task. Additionally, here is a brief list of essential books: Making Sense of Burgundy by Matt Kramer Kramer can be very controversial but this is the definitive introduction to arguably the most confusing wine region on the planet. Once you grasp what it takes to make great Burgundy, everything else is easy. Oxford Companion to Wine edited by Jancis Robinson Jancis Robinson edits the work of the world's greatest wine minds in one alphabetic encylopedia on the subject of wine. For me, this is one of two desert island book. The New Sotheby's Wine Encyclopedia by Thomas Stevenson The most comprehensive reference book available today. It presents the most comprehensive, current, in print detail of every wine producing country on the planet. The Wine Atlas of Italy by Burton Anderson Though published in 1989, it is still amazingly relevant and a must as an introduction to Italy. Vines, Grapes, and Wines by Jancis Robinson Recently updated, this is the definitive book on the world's great wine grape varieties. Red Wine with Fish by Wesson and Rosengarten A definitive guide to wine and food pairing without the impractical or technical. Cheese Primer by Steven Jenkins For me the great wine and cheese are inseperable. This is the definitive guide on the subject. This is obviously only a scant offering on the subject, but its one helluva start.

A group of regulars at The Wine Vault in Charlotte, NC gathered at Volare Ristorante and shared a bevy of great wines. The following notes are the night's highlights. 1996 Brunello di Montalcino, Il Poggione (San Angelo en Colle) Lost in the shadow of the anomalous 1997 vintage, 1996 produced wines of more classic style. Il Poggione quietly and consistently produces very good estate bottled Rosso and Brunello di Montalcino with a softer, more traditional character. This wine would benefit from just another year or two in the cellar, but I prefer to drink it just this way. Aromas and flavors are classic Sangiovese...sundried cherry and roma tomato, dried savory herbs, accents of cured tobacco and spicey cedar. The palate was of medium weight with very good balance between acid, tannin, alcohol, and extract. The texture was pleasantly dry with very fine grained, medium intense tannins. As one would expect, Il Poggione does not garner the big point reviews, however if your looking for quality, complexity, and value, Il Poggione delivers. 1996 Brunello di Montalcino Rennina, Pieve di Santa Restituta (Montalcino) If judged by its appearance, this wine would totally mislead the taster. Its the classic medium intensity rusty garnet that gives no indication of the intensity and concentration that awaits. While more powerful and complex than the previous Brunello, it presented just as much balance and integration. Though the oak regimen at this Gaja estate is similar to that of Il Poggione, the higher percentage of new oak is evident in the Rennina, though beautifully integrated in the wine. Simply stated, this is my current favorite in the enitre Gaja portfolio. 2000 Gagliole Rosso (Castellina en Chianti) Though the current proprietors have only been commercially producing a wine labeled Gagliole since 1996, this incredibly situated "cru" vineyard has existed for over a thousand years. Hot-to-trot enologist Luca d'Attoma crafts the fruit grown by vineyard manager Dr. Tobias Frommann. The result is approximately 1700 cases of Tuscany's finest Sangiovese. 10% Cabernet adds great depth of purple blue intensity to the appearance of this wine as well as a serious bit of depth in flavor, texture, and tannin. Though decidely the biggest and most modern in profile of these 3 Tuscan reds, Gagliole offers unmistakable Sangiovese aroma and flavor with the texture of a more international wine. I cannot recommend this wine more highly. As a side note, prior to current ownership, this vineyard's fruit went entirely to Siepi. 1995 Barolo Sperss, Gaja (Serralunga d'Alba) Though a difficult Piedmontese vintage, Gaja's wines are, as expected, superlative. Initially, this wine was not very forthcoming. It took approximately 45 minutes to really open. A bit of advice, do not decant this too early as a recent experience proved 3 hours was too much. It is often very easy to confuse great Nebbiolo and great Sangiovese in a double blind tasting and it was very enlightening to have an opportunity to taste this wine after the three outstanding Sangiovese wines. The appearance was very similar to the 1996 Rennina. The aromas and flavors were more precise and linear with a little less flesh and feel. The tannins and acid were as expected more piercing and severe. When this wine reached its peak it was exponentially more full flavored than when tasted initially. A great example of a great producer transcending the quality of the vintage. 1986 Chateau la Fleur de Gay (Pomerol) Wow! What a change of pace form the powerfully structured previous wines. When this wine was revealed I was amazed at the freshness and quality from an average Libournais vintage. Once again, the appearance gave no indication of the truly enticing aromas and flavors. Sweet red cherry and asian five spice dominated the nose and palate. The texture was incredibly suave and charming. Oak was still evident and provided a beautiful bit of cinnamon and vanilla complexity. This wine reaffirms the faith of a Bordeaux cynic. 1991 Penfolds Grange (South Australia) An powerful and emphatic finish to the evening, this wine was unmistakably Grange. Though not very complex, the 1991 is a hedonist's delight. Inky garnet blue in appearance with port like viscosity and staining in the tears, for once the appearance told the taster exactly what was ahead. The aromas and flavors married sweet dilly, coconuty American oak, yes bitchin', with over-ripe dried plums and currants. The texture was huge. Not a personal favorite, but its easy to see why its so popular. For an incredibly complex and well made alternative, try the 1998 Green Vineyards "Forties Old Block" Shiraz from Sergio Carlei in Heathcote, Victoria.

Airtran airline serves the absolute worst coffee on land or in the air. I will even allow for the difficult preparation circumstances and its still the nastiest java anywhere.

Though I place Banyuls at the top of the list for pairing with chocolate, I am also a huge fan of that frivolous Italian fizz, Brachetto. Banfi is currently taking the world by storm with its delicious Rosa Regale. If I had one complaint, its too damn expensive. I highly recommend Elio Peronne's Bigaro, a 50/50 blend of Moscato and Brachetto for noteably less $$$. Perrone is a small estate producer who specializes in frizzante wines. Frizzante wines are typically 5.5% alcohol by volume with only a 1/3 of the effervescence of a fully sparkling. Brachetto, like Moscato, is highly aromatic and when its produced frizzante the results are gulpably delicious. Its has a beautiful purple pink hue, a soft froth, outrageous aromatics, and a very light off-dry palate with flavors to match aromas. Though lightly sweet, Brachetto and Moscato both maintain intense natural acidity that combines with the fizz to keep the finish very clean. I just wish Perrone would bottle the Bigaro in a 375 ml so I would not look so conspicuous when chugging from the bottle.

Lots of great options offered by various posters. I particularly like the idea of Jermann Vinae. If, however, it must be a Chardonnay I strongly urge you to look to Australia for an unoaked version such as Ferngrove or Madfish Bay from Western Australia or for something a bit more complex try Shaw & Smith from the Adelaide Hills. The balance between ripe, intense tropical fruit aroma and flavor and mouthwatering acidity with no interference from oak provides the necessary ingredients for a good match with your dish. This unoaked category has really exploded in Australia and has gained momentum here in the States as well. These wines are often in the best buy category. No bitchin aok here!

Any sommelier worth their salt should be willing to split one pour between two guests. A good server or sommelier should recommend it as part of their explanation of the prix fee menu.

In the hands of Joly in the Clos de la Coulee de Serrant, Chenin is at its idiosyncratic and authentic best. Your description of the 1999 is perfect and 1999 is arguably Joly's best wine ever. There is much hyperbole in that statement but much substance as well. We have recently tasted the 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, and 2001 around the country. As a previous poster commented, the 1997 is one strange puppy. I would not call it flawed but its certainly heavily influenced by botrytis and a perceivable amount of residual sugar. Its not for everybody but it is an interesting and charactered wine. The 1998 and 2000 present a similar profile of quality and character and are very good wines from difficult vintages. The 1999 and 2001 are truly spectacular wines for now or decades from now. The average retail price for these vintages should be ~$74/bottle. All of these vintages are currently available. For those unsure about the price, please try the 2001 Clos de la Bergerie, the lesser known but high quality single vineyard from Roche-aux-Moines, for ~$44/bottle or the 2001 Becherelle bottling for ~$35/bottle. Becherelle is basically Joly's village wine. For more info on Joly, http://www.coulee-de-serrant.com or check out the October 2003 Decanter article on Savennieres by Stephen Brook.