ckbklady

So I take it the answer is no?? Heck, I am not arguing for the existence of such things, I'm just asking if anyone knows of any such book or books. Surely if there are such things, my prof and others to whom the subject is of interest can judge for themselves the relative merits of said books. I still would enjoy knowing if anyone has ever seen such a thing. Anyone? If the answer is no, there will be cause for celebration, yes? Cookbook Lady

In a food writing class I attend, a remarkable point emerged last week. The professor of the class noted that he had seen many books on the subject of understanding wine, of identifying wine varieties and regions, on mastering selection, on improving wine judgment, etc., but could find no books on the subject of teaching how to write about wine. He is quite right. I looked at numerous books and searched online to no avail. Does someone know of such a book, in print or out? Could an obliging, knowledgeable eGulleteer please get busy and write such a book? I need one by next Tuesday, haha. I notice also that while there are numerous books about how to write cookbooks and while there are a handful of food writing how-to books, there are none that teach restaurant reviewing either. Could it be that as subjects, wine writing and restaurant writing are by their natures too personal and subjective to permit for the creation of how-to guides??

Hello Suvir! Sorry about the delay in replying - I am not a daily eGulleteer. (A shocking admission, yes.) Yes, Sami's crab cakes really are marvelous. They are constructed like "regular" crab cakes - mashed fishy bits shaped into patties as usual, but these babies have fennel seeds, cilantro and Sami's curry powder mixed in (and sometimes shrimp as a special). They are served in a folded roti-like bread and to make the fusion of ideas even wilder, the presentation looks like Falafel. Sami Lalji is an East Indian from Uganda who has lived in Canada since the 70s, so he knows diversity. I have had celestial Smoked Salmon Pakoras (yes!) at Sami's and think his spicy Osso Bucco and Baby Back Ribs are amazing. If you go and his Pappadum Crusted Salmon is on the menu, don't even think of ordering anything else. The restaurant is in a little corner strip mall beside a 7-11. Do NOT allow that to put you off - it means that Sami can offer entrees for two with wine for under $50. And the constant coming-and-going of the 7-11 crowd guarantees only a short wait for a much-coveted free parking spot. Anyone can do a fancy meal and charge $100+. I am much more fired up about bargain spots, because they do more with less. I want imagination, not silver serving dishes. Sami Lalji is, for my money, the most inventive restauranteur in Vancouver. Vij's is fine, but sometimes you don't WANT to take the boss to dinner. I also must add that Sami does his best to teach patrons about wine pairings with Indian food by putting a copy of his little book on each table for reference. Not only can you look through the book and find the recipe for the meal you plan to eat, but you can compare the wine suggestions listed with the current wine list on the menu. Dare I call it "interactive"? Of course, buy a book on the way out - you'll want to make the Butter Chicken again and again. (Incidentally, I have made that recipe and found it to be EXACTLY the same as Sami's - now THAT'S a souvenir!) SAMI'S 986 WEST BROADWAY (near Oak) Vancouver, BC 604-736-8330 (no reservations) GO AHEAD, MAKE MY CURRY! New Indian Cuisine Sami Lalji Vancouver, Whitecap Books, 2001 $14.95 CDN ISBN: 1-55285-210-5 Cookbook Lady

Here in Vancouver, two other choices come to mind - Sami's and Maurya. Sami's is a tiny, lively and inexpensive place. The cuisine would loosely be called "Indian fusion" - Cardamon Crab Cakes, that sort of thing. Very Raji Jallepalli. The proprietor wrote a great little cookbook of recipes from the restaurant called Go Ahead, Make My Curry. (Cheesy, perhaps, but utterly charming.) This place is a helluva bargain for lunch and is a fun and casual place for dinner. The Butter Chicken is unbelievably splendid. Maurya is more of a "take the boss to dinner" place (does anyone actually do that?). It feels much like the serious "statement restaurants" of Toronto. Expensive decor, gentle subtly piped Indian music, semi-formal service. Wonderful wine list, elegant dishes. It is my favorite Vancouver restaurant for out-of-town guests. For those who can get it, the current issue of VANCOUVER magazine March 2002 (www.vancouvermagazine.com) has a detailed article and review of several Indian places here. Caution - reading it will make you ravenous! Cookbook Lady