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  1. I thought about using a high-temp thermal pad. It will tighten the hysteresis loop. But it's ultimately going to be limited by the conduction of the pan between the inner induction ring and the sensor, probably too much trouble for the benefit.
  2. Who is less likely to take a band-saw to a pan?
  3. Service delivery is 240V single split-phase with neutral wire, most circuits/outlets get half a phase. Certain appliances like electric ovens and dryers get high current 240V outlets. Since lower amperage 240V sockets aren't common (even though they are standard https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NEMA_connector), nobody builds appliances for them, and so nobody installs them, and we complete the circle of dumb.
  4. 1800W = 15A * ~120V. Sadly many many electric appliances in the US get a bad reputation because there just isn't enough power available at a standard socket. Even though all residences have 240V service. 😑 Now whether the US version can actually take 240V and 2400W that's a good question. My unit is labeled only for 120V, but need to do some surgery to see what's actually inside. Almost everything else I own supports 120/240 as the result of incredibly common switching power supplies, or least a dip switch for the input transformer.
  5. Looks like there is a newer bigger display. Hopefully it's glass. I put a small piece of automotive PPF on my display so I could wipe the grease off with paper towels without scuffing it up. What does the weight sensor do?
  6. 2mm of copper/silver sandwich seems to have much less heat capacity that 8mm aluminum? If chatgpt is doing this calculation right, copper is better by about 42% by volume, and silver is just about equivalent. It needs to be 300% better to be equivalent in heat capacity. Regardless, even Demeyere makes cookware like this with a discontinuous base, it's just not their skillet. See 1:02 below. Depending on your application it may be better to not have the sidewall heated. I don't think one pan could be the best at everything.
  7. Found this detailed comparison of the Fissler Profi vs Proline 7-layer, there's an excel sheet at shown at 8:08, it finds the kind of significant outperformance of the Fissler as far as conductivity as the other review above.
  8. I mostly agree, I'm just saying that the bond between layers is imperfect. 7 layers of the same aluminum will conduct less than 1 layer of the same thickness.
  9. Well, technically it is precise to a single digit, but the control loop just can't keep it to under a single digit under changing load. It basically shows you this on the display, so I don't think it's a secret. I recall seeing about +/- 5F when I used it a few days ago, obviously that will vary.
  10. I see Demeyere mentioned a lot, but it didn't seem to come out well in even-ness tests. Just from a physics standpoint I think it has a basic issue - every time you add a layer it reduces the total conductivity. 7 layers is too much. Still leaning towards the Fissler, it's got a giant piece of aluminum and medium price. Falk copper looks interesting, but I would guess it doesn't make up for in copper vs aluminum what it loses in the thickness of the copper (1.9mm). Copper is 1.7x the thermal conductivity of aluminum.
  11. Cast iron works with the induction but I don't think it should really be used, the thermal conductivity is just too low. People are generally looking for the thermal mass of the cast iron as one of its main properties, but a heavy piece of other metals will do as well. I've never really been a fan, randomly polymerized oil vs specifically polymerized oil for PTFE, why do we think the former is a safer coating? When we know it comes off all time? I'm not betting on it.
  12. Already been using Searzall for years. As well as an incredibly heavy cast-iron griddle on my gas BBQ. I'm trying a new strategy - to get a nice golden sear without burning. First, I'm pretty sure those burnt bits aren't good for you, second, they do add off flavors if taken too far. The temperature control on the Control Freak is already creating good results with a 6mm aluminum pan. A bit more thermal mass for the initial drop would be good, but it only last a few seconds anyway. Dropping on a piping-hot surface is what I'm trying to do away with. Getting a nice golden sear in 3-4 minutes while keeping the sous-vide doneness of the meat. Also thought about putting a thermal pad on the sensor, it will probably help with the initial drop. The contact area with the pan isn't all that great.
  13. Control Freak doing quite a bit better on evenness than the duxtop I returned. Convertor plate would only make responsiveness even worse, and breaks the PID loop with the thermal sensor. Slow response from thermal mass but a good PID loop is good enough. Big slab of aluminum or copper sounds just fine to me for searing. Do you know of a better pan comparison than that one? Superficial as it may be, only head to head evenness test I've seen. I don't want to buy all the pans to do it myself.
  14. Was looking at the pan reviews here: https://www.sizzleandsear.com/article/best-cookware-for-even-heating-in-depth-testing-analysis/ Looks like Fissler stainless pan is tops with 8mm thick base including the stainless layers. Right now I'm using some cheap Amazon "Sensarte" pan, it's a big hunk of cast aluminum with a stainless induction insert, I measured the base with calipers to be 6mm thick. Wonder if it would be worth it to upgrade the Fissler ceramic. After spending $1500 on a cooktop why skimp on the cookware. But it does look very similar to the Fissler though.
  15. Just picked up one of these. Has firmware L1C1.0_1.2_A57. Is that the latest? I can't seem to find the updates on the website. Also, how do you guys keep the screen clean? Looks like it's plastic and may scratch easily, I don't want to hit it with a paper towel.
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