jimtmcdaniels

Hi, Just wanted to share here for whoever might find it helpful (Can alter it to fit your set up), a 2 page sheet made for operating/handling CO2 tanks for fizzy beverages. The problem was there was no condensed easy to short read literature for staff & management to refer to and learn for operating, safety, trouble shoot and what to do in an emergency release with our CO2 system. SO after scouring the internet and bringing ALL the pertinent info in and then greatly condensing it, without cutting anything needed out. We got a 2 page list. We printed it, laminated it and displayed it. Wanted to share it below for anyone looking for something similar. Also At the end, some labels we printed and added to some of the equipment. Thanks Take care --- Soda Syrup, Water & CO2 Cylinders(aka “Tanks”) - Important Info Syrup Bag-In-Box(“BIB”) Replacement (Syrup is empty/running clear): 1. Reach into the hose-connected-box opening & feel the syrup bag. 2. If it’s not totally empty: Enlarge the box opening so to hang the bag out. So that all the remaining syrup portion is outside & above the hose. The remaining syrup will flow again. 3. Otherwise if/once the bag is empty: Find & select the oldest new box of the same syrup (hose is also flavor labeled). 4. Follow the box instructions, hand tear cardboard perforation. Avoid puncturing the bag with your nails. 5. Pull the bag neck out & secure it in place. 6. Remove & discard the bag’s seal-cap. 7. Unscrew the hose’s colored knob from the old bag. 8. Screw the knob fully onto the new box. 9. If available: record on a change out/re-order log-sheet. 10. Discard the old bag in box (recycle the cardboard). 11. Trigger the soda gun until the new syrup comes out. When a syrup bag runs empty, CO2 tank consumption increases greatly - syrup pump exhaust puffs, rapidly-sucking: If a new box is not available Or a pump is broken: quick disconnect(Pull Red-release tab) & pull out that pump’s CO2 white-supply-line. It auto seals. Syrup hose knob’s color coding & fitment vary: Red=Coke Brand, Green=Pepsi Brand, Maroon=Dr Pepper, Yellow=non-diet, Red=diet(artificial Sweetener), Blue or White=Sometimes Caffeine Free, Orange or Green, etc=Specialty/Energy/Juices. Black=Sweetened sodas, Grey=QCD pop-out-style connectors for non-Coke/Pepsi products. Individual Syrup & Water Flow Cut-Off Valves: Soda Gun - when a button is not shutting off: Manually turn off that liquid’s supply hose, by turning its yellow knob, found on the soda gun hose’s wall-mounted-manifold. Order repair. Water/to Carbonator Supply, Main Shut Off Valve location: Under NE Bar Sink upstairs. CO2 Tanks & related equipment should Only be handled & operated by authorized & properly trained personnel. Wear appropriate PPE: gloves, safety goggles & protective clothing. Tank Replacement?(Soda water is flat): If the line(carbonator) gauge reads above 100 psi, check: the carbonator’s AC power plug & if the Soda water is not cold, ice chest needs filling. Otherwise verify tank gauge is also reading low, proceed to replace the depleted Tank: Disconnecting the Old Tank Hose (keeping Tank Outlet pointed Away from you): 1. Turn Tank’s top-knob-valve-off(CW). 2. Using the supplied 7/8” wrench & finally your hand: Unscrew(CCW) & disconnect the hose’s female coupler-nut. 3. Remove the used sealing-washer (can be saved to repurpose. For a non-sealing ordinary-washer purpose). Connecting A New-Full Tank: 1. Select one(dust-cover is unsealed). 2. Open cover, revealing a new sealing-washer to use in hose’s coupler-nut. 3. Very briefly-slightly open & close the Tank knob, blows out any foreign material. 4. Strongly hand screw(CW) the hose’s coupler-nut onto the tank(avoid cross threading). 5. Use the supplied wrench to turn the Nut further, approx. 1/4 - 3/4(“good & tight”). 6. Turn fully Open(CCW) the Tank Valve. If leaking/hissing, tighten the nut more. 7. Trigger the soda water gun until carbonated water comes out. Checking for small CO2 gas leak(s) - 2 common methods: ▶︎ 1. Pause dispensing. With Tank connected to the hose, Tank Knob Open & Gauges stable: 2. Listen for any faint leaking sound(s). 3. Next: Close(CW) the Tank Knob. 4. Note All 3 gauges’ readings. 5. Any dropping, even subtly, indicates a leak. 6. To test for smaller leaks, write down readings & come back 5-30 min. later(overnight is best) to check for any changes. ▶︎ 1. Brush/Spray onto the Hose to Tank connection: a sudsy mixture of 1:10 (dish soap:water). Also anywhere the system might leak. 2. Expanding soap bubbles, indicates an active leak. With no leaks, a 20 LB tank makes approx. 140 gal. Soda(using 23.5 gal. of box syrup @ 5:1). 3 Pressure Gauges @ manifold: 1. Line w/Adjustable(105 PSI=Ideal) Regulator (Carbonator/Fizzy Water Maker): Hoses(Connections, Disconnect Check Valves), Carbonator(Tank, Valves, Internal Water/CO2 Back-flow Check Valve), Soda Gun(Fittings/Handle button Valves). 2. BIB(Bag-In-Box) Pumps Adjustable(65 PSI=Ideal) Regulator: powered by CO2 gas exhaust “Puffs”. Hoses/Manifolds to Syrup Pumps, Pump Diaphragm. 3. Tank (CO2) fill. (If in the Red & Line gauge is below its 105 psi setting=replace the tank). (Multiple gauges dropping indicates: a leak before the Adj. knob regulators Or multiple leaks). Lifting Tanks: A common “20 LB size” Aluminum CO2 tank, weighs 25 LB empty(T.WT) & 45 LB when filled(w/20 LB of liquid CO2). Use proper lifting techniques, your legs, not your back. Use 2 people when needed. Never roll, drop or drag a tank, it can damage the tank/valve. Tank(s) Limit connected-to-equipment: > 99 LB CO2 requires an alarm system & more. Securely fasten ALL tanks, grouped together in place: Install the Restraining Buckle Strap tightly around the tanks’ metal bodies @ 2/3 rds height. Assure they can not move/fall over. Transporting: Use equipment, such as trolleys/carts. During transport, storage & use, securely fasten tanks & in an upright position. Fastened: with approved chains/straps/racks, to prevent them from falling/rolling damage & personal injury. Upright: so that the CO2 liquid is in the bottom, while the rising gas is in the top-valve portion of the tank. So that the valve can dispense the proper metered gas, to the connected gas receiving equipment. Also to discharge only gas firstly, during any incidental high-pressure safety-valve discharge. Common Uses of CO2: Various applications including fire suppression & medical & industrial processes. Also the Beverage Industry, to carbonate cold-water for soft-drinks/beverages. Physical & Chemical Properties: Carbon dioxide is naturally present in our atmosphere @ .04%. Is a colorless, odorless gas, heavier than air & is non-flammable. When stored in a high pressure(860+ psi) metal CO2 tank, it’s a concentrated, potent high-volume liquid. Potential Hazards Associated with concentrated CO2: Asphyxiation: High concentrations can displace oxygen in the air.This is particularly dangerous in confined/poorly ventilated spaces/basements. Direct contact with escaping CO2 from a high-pressure tank can cause severe frostbite, due to the extremely low temperature, liquid releases create, as it rapidly expands(1 LB into 8.74 cu ft), back into a natural state. Vent/Explosion Tank Hazard: An over filled/pressurized or over heated(125+ F) CO2 tank is designed to safety vent, but it could rupture, especially if damaged. A rupture can cause serious injuries/property damage & even turn the tank into a very dangerous projectile. Corrosion: CO2, when combine with cold water, forms a weak carbonic acid. Store CO2 tanks in a dry place, separate from: reactive materials, gases & heat sources. Primary safety concern is gas leakage: Tanks are robust, compared to the associated soda equipment. A large/long term leak can fill a room, incapacitating/suffocating persons. Fatal if exposure is long/severe enough. Heavier than air, CO2 tends to accumulate in low-lying areas(basements/floor areas/under). Lingering for hours if not properly ventilated. Signs of a Large Leak: A hissing sound/frost formation. The presence of a white fog, etc. Immediate Actions are Critical in the Event of an Uncontrolled/Large Leak: CO2 Tank Shutoff: If safe to do so. Use appropriate PPE & protect skin from frostbite. Evacuate the Area: Move everyone from the affected area to a separate well-ventilated location/outside. Account for everyone/assure no-one is left behind/has fallen unconscious. Ventilate: Open doors & windows. Use ventilation systems/fans to disperse the gas. Exposure Symptoms (Mild to Severe): From headache, dizziness, rapid breathing, to confusion, nausea, short breath, chest pain, loss of consciousness(might require CPR). First Aid: CO2 doesn’t stay in the body. But severe/prolonged exposure=body organs stress & brain fog. Avoid injuries from falling. Monitor breathing & provide aid to anyone who has been exposed. Especially if severe & to vulnerable infants/children, pregnant women, elderly & those with a preexisting medical condition. Symptoms usually disappear within a few hours. Call 911: Their first aid/oxygen treatment can be critically beneficial & is generally a totally Free service. A person’s insurance is only billed, if they need & agree to be transported. ------------------------ Some Helpful Equipment Labels (Print, cut out, clear scotch/box tape on both sides to make water proof. Attach with double sided tape on the label backside and Clear Tape On top). : When a syrup bag runs empty, CO2 tank consumption increases greatly(syrup pump exhaust puffs rapidly-sucking): If a new box is not available Or a pump is broken: quick disconnect(Pull Red-release tab) & pull out that pump’s CO2 white supply line. It auto seals. Insert hose to reinstall. Syrup(“BIB”)Bag In Box PUMP- Powered By CO2 Gas Line Syrup IN Hose -From a Syrup Box Syrup OUT Hose -To Soda Gun CO2 Hose To Syrup Pumps- Gas Powers The Pumps Red-release tab-(Pull Tab To Disconnect. If needed, use a small tool, to pull Red tab towards you) Please place used CO2 sealing-washers here. Generally Not CO2 reusable. Great repurpose, for a non-sealing, ordinary-washer purpose. Thank you! TAKE CARE

Good points. I did research using dry ice in a walk in and the hazard. These particular sites were very informative: http://www.acmedryice.com/power_outage_dry_ice.html#:~:text=WALK-IN REFRIGERATOR,the air is sucked through. https://www.philadelphiadryice.com/how-much-dry-ice-do-i-need/ https://extension.umn.edu/preserving-and-preparing/power-outages-keep-food-safe#:~:text=For a 20-cubic-foot,on top of the food. The amount of dry ice recommended varies a bit between sources. Individuals online have had very good luck with one block of dry ice lasting an entire week. The dry ice is in the "short term" options of the list. A generator is definitely the best option. Multi fuel which can run on propane or gas is a better option during a prolonged power outage. Our power outages in town very rarely last for more than 2 days. In rare instances, in some isolated pocket areas, no more than 7 days at the most. I wanted the list to be encompassingly comprehensive so that Everyone, the restaurant workers and their families, would have an idea of what options they all might have for saving food in their personal home refrigerators and freezers. The dry ice could be a sweet spot for some of them to consider. Also for if their unit breaks while waiting to buy a replacement or get repair on it. It seems dry ice availability has been on the decline. However some cities might have an abundance of dry ice suppliers/makers. If there is a dry ice warehouse or if they start trucking it into the city during a big power outage, dry ice might be what many are using during a crisis. It might be easier for authorities to truck or rail road in dry ice, then to give every a band new complicated generator which needs hard to get fuel that no one has. The word generator seems to encompasses solar and battery generators. The restaurant has 2 ice machines with bins. I wanted staff to know that using that ice can prolong the time in the units if placed inside in a large container(s). I wanted people to know that ice is what we use to use to keep food cool before the 1935's. It's our history. Ice boxes were small because they needed to be to conserve how much ice was needed and didn't keep food quite as cold as our modern refrigerators did. The food in them didn't last as long. I also wanted people to know it is possible to feed rinsed or cooked spoiled food to dogs. Dogs have to eat too during a power outage. Also if people realize they can feed some of it to their dogs, they won't feel so bad that the food and their money is going to waste and so want to try to save it and eat it or feed it to humans..... I also wanted all the info to be printable, to fit on one side of a sheet of paper, in a larger 24 font size.

Thanks for the discussions ALL! I've made a reference sheet containing the strategies and information I found in a lot of my research online and condensed it all into useful sheet to review during an outage for a restaurant or home. We'll reference it when we need to. I'm going to find some places to post it, like with the generators etc. I don't think you'll find such a thorough, comprehensive and succinct list on the subject elsewhere. So during such crisis we will have a clear mind and not be too indecisive and making poor decisions and panicking. Thought I'd share below for anyone interested in using or building from for their fit: Take care. PRINTABLE INFO LIST: POWER OUTAGE/UNIT FAILURE-FOOD PRESERVATION INFO: Outages Often Do Not Last Long. If So, Food in Refrigerates Is Quit Safe & Unaffected For A Few Hrs., In Freezers Even Longer. DO Check CSU.ORG For Expected Restoration Times! If Outage Might Be Much Longer, Read Below & Take Appropriate Short/Long Term Actions ASAP. This Info Is Also Applicable For: Broken Units, Or When Planning For A Potential Imminent Storm/Power Outage. Without Power, Your Unit Is Still A Powerful Insulating Box. -Do Not Place Food Outside In The Snow. The Sun Warms Food. Avoid Unnecessarily Opening Units. - REFRIGERATORS: Foods Will Maintain A Spoil Safe Temp. (≤40℉/4.4℃) For 3-6 Hrs. However After The First Couple Hrs., Foods Can Begin To Age Faster, About 1 Day For Every Hour. Above The Safe Temp., Food Will Begin To Spoil By Accelerated Natural Growth Of Bacteria & More. Many Foods, Left Over 2 Hrs. Above The Safe Temp., May No Longer Be Considered Safe To Eat. Particularly Uncooked: Fish/Seafood/Poultry/Red Meat, Dairy/Milk & Aged Leftovers. Also Some Chopped/Cut Fruits/Vegetables. If It Either Doesn’t Look Good Or Smell Good, It’s Definitely No Longer Good. Anyone Eating It May Become Quite Ill. Rinsing or Cooking Slightly Spoiled Food, May Make It Safe For A Dog’s Robust Food-Scavenger Digestion, But Not A Human’s. SHORT TERM Actions Which EXTENDS The Time: Placing Into The Refrigerators, ASAP: Ice (From An Ice Maker)/Snow/Gel-Water Packs/Frozen Water Bottles/Cooling Paddles Sometimes Stored In Freezers. Dry-Ice* Can Be A Strong Option, Be Aware It Can Freeze Food Near It. Also: Consolidate Food From Another, To Fill A Unit (Leave Room For Ice). Move Freezable Food(s) Into A Freezer. - FREEZERS: Frozen Food Will Thaw In 12, Up To 24 Hrs-If Unit Is Packed Full. Even Then, Food Won’t Reach An Unsafe Temp. (≥40℉/4.4℃) For Another 12-24 Hrs. Time Can Be EXTENDED By: Consolidating Food To Pack Into One Full Unit. Adding Dry-Ice* On The Top Shelves, Atop The Food. Once Power Is Restored, Food That Did Not Reach An Unsafe Temp. Can Be Safely Refrozen. Taste Might Be Effected Some. = LONG TERM Outage Actions (Also For SHORT TERM - IF A Generator Is Available): Power Refrigerator/Freezer Units With A Portable Generator(s), Until Power Is Restored. This Can Also Power Lighting & Small Items. Add Units & Motors One At A Time, To Avoid Multiple Start Ups, Over Loading The Generator. If The Generator Isn’t Capable Of Running All The Units At Once: Simply Rotate Powering In Split Groups, Approx. Every 30-60 Min. Once All The Cooling Units Reach Their Temp. Setting, Their Motors Will Cycle Off & On. You Then Might Find You Can Now Power All The Units With The Generator. If Food Is Cold Enough, To Conserve Fuel, You May Turn The Generator Off Occasionally. Be Aware, That During A Wide Spread Power Outage, Generator Fuel May Be Scarce, Gas Pumps May Be Out Of Order, etc. Only A Large Trailered 250vac Generator Is Capable Of Powering All Of A Restaurant’s Open For Business Equipment. i.e. Electric Grills, Espresso, AC, Vent Hood, Make Up Blower, Etc. -A Portable 12vdc to 120vac Power Inverter, Connected To A Running Car, With An Extension Cord, Might Power 1 Refrigerator. When Done, Be Sure To Shut Off Its Fuel Supply Valve & Run The Generator(s) Till They Stall. So Their Carburetors Will Not Be Gummed Up With Dried/Gelled Fuel Next Time They Are Needed Again! = *DRY-ICE(Penguin Brand?): Is Sold At Some: Local Grocery Stores & Some Other Places. In A Chest Freezer, Up Front By Customer Service. Wisely Call First To Check On Current Availability. I.e. Walmart @ $2 Lb., King Soopers @ $2 Lb., Safeway @ $4 Lb. Also: Butcher Shops/Ice Cream Shops/Supply Companies. The Expense Can Add Up. -Dry-Ice Is Super Cold Frozen Solid CO2 Gas @ -109℉/-78℃! Normal Ice Is Only A Bit Below 32℉/0℃. Avoid Frost Bite, Handle Only With Thick Protection i.e. Gloves/Cloth. Keep Away From Children. Direct Contact Can Damage Temp. Vulnerable Surfaces(i.e. Glass, Plastic, etc.). Place Some Insulation i.e. Cardboard Sheet etc. Directly Underneath It. Suggested Quantities: Refrigerator: 10 Lb.(Replace Every 1-2 Days). Freezer: 15-50 lb.(Dependent On Unit Size. Replace Every 1-4 Days). 12’x12’ Walk Ins*(Replace Every 1-2 Days.).: Freezer: 150-150 lb. Refrigerator: 50-100 lb. *Use In A Walk In Can Cause A Suffocation Hazard. The Room Can Fill From The Floor Up, With The Odorless & Invisible, Melted Carbon Dioxide Gas. So When Entering, Just Leave The Door Open & Do Have A Rescue Buddy Outside. -Use In Refrigerators Can Freeze Food. Start With Conservative Quantities & Monitor Temp. -Store Excess Dry-Ice In A Freezer Unit. Otherwise In A Camping Cooler. -But Never In Any Container Which Is Latched/Sealed Air Tight(Drain Plug Closed). -This Could Pressurize As The CO2 Turns To Gas. Causing A Real Hazard Upon Rupturing/Opening. -To Dispose Of Dry-Ice, Place It In A Freezer Unit. It Will Help The Motor Keep The Food Frozen & Save Some Electricity. While It Slowly Sublimates Away & Disappears Over A Few Days/Weeks. Otherwise, Leave It At Room Temperature In A Well Ventilated Area. With Cardboard Under It. For A Small Fog Effects Show, Place Some Into A Large Pyrex Glass Bowl Or Metal Pot, Half Filled With Hot Water. Once The Water Cools(10 Min.), Most Of The Show Is Over. -Never Place Down a Plumbing Fixture Or Pipe. It Can Easily Damage Them, With Its Extreme Temp. Fun Related - Did You Knows: Interesting Dry-Ice Uses: Removal Of: Car Hail Dents, Floor Tile. Mosquitos/Ticks Attractant(Away From People) & More. Refrigerators Were Originally Just Insulated “Ice Boxes”. Cooled Simply By Placing A Large Block Of Ice Inside. Common In American Homes, Between 1835-1935. Until Our Modern Electricity Powered Refrigerators Were Perfected & Popularized.

Thanks for Sharing. The "dust" hasn't settled on these new emerging options and I like the portability of a portable generator, without spending too much money for something generally rarely needed. My boss got a portable 220v generator but it's gas only, not multi fuel(for propane as well), he probably should have got instead. But we are in CO and don't get hurricanes that can take out power in very large areas, making gasoline hard to find in a prolonged event. I do like that it's portable because our city can have isolated outages where you might need to take the generator to help a friend who is only effected.

Oh another option I now see, especially in the future may be using an electric or a hybrid electric's battery to power a building during an outage. Thanks

Great info AlaMoi thanks. Yes well the generator we had didn't start because of the lacquer problem I believe. Took lots of starter fluid and such. We realized later when we went to run it dry of gas to avoid the lacquer problem in storage, the fuel cut off valve would drip(and keep the engine running). We had to replace the little valve so this won't happen again. We did find it cheap online. Wow gas pumps not being able to pump the gas in the ground. Sounds like quite a mess. Yes a Siphon hose would be very handy then thanks. I may buy one. Guess that's why a generator that runs on both gas and propane is handier. Natural gas generally continues at buildings is my understanding they have generators to keep the gas going(or the gas is under natural pressure) if the lines aren't broken due to like an earth quake. The gas line could run the generator for as long as you needed in extreme outages. But doesn't seem generators which can run on the natural gas line of your building are sold in stores.. Interesting.. Thanks for mentioning why the generator has to be monitored if running close to max with appliances/motors. I'm going to add that as a sticker explaining why. The generator will be stored in a shed. I might also buy a very affordable cover on aliexpress. I'm like the handyman and just gathering info for action and directions on things. If the owner had purchased one size larger generator model, it would have had the electric start motor. I like your back feed plug method as long as you turn off the main switch, cool. thanks

Cool Interesting idea to see restaurants equipped to be shelters for the public. Thanks for the input.

Hi, I'd like to open a discussion to explore & share actions and solutions to the problem us restaurants face in an unexpected power outage, to minimize impact, damage and loss of income and be more prepared. - Background: We had a power outage recently due to a bad wind storm damaging our city's electric lines. It lasted almost a full day. As the temperature in our stand up refrigerators was surely rising, our walk in frig. held better and our freezers as well. Of course we kept the doors shut or opening to a minimum. Yet the clock was ticking and not knowing when the power would be restored. Of course the restaurant couldn't even open. We rushed and moved some food(was an ordeal moving it) to from one Building to another and had an electrician temporarily wire into our circuit breaker in the other building with a 220v gas generator. The generator we had, wouldn't start(we did get it started later), so we also had to rush to Home Depot to purchase another. The old generator was only a 110v so it might not have met our needs for the walk in. The electrician temporarily disconnected the circuit box main breaker(turned off) from the power grid so no power would enter the utilities system and shock the city workers repairing the lines, wherever the faults were in our city. This allowed the building's power and units to come back on and bring the temperature back to normal unit the power came back on a few hours later. Of course we had to shut off non essential items in the building because the generator was a smaller portable unit. - So Well, In hind sight and to prepare for another future event, we need to make a plan of actions. Also depending on the length of outage etc. - Can I get input and knowledge and experiences sharing on this subject? - I mean, can we do better/more/missing options? Like we do have 2 ice makers which always have full bins. We could have moved that ice into refrigerators to help maintain temperature. We also had some frozen "rapid cooling water paddles" in a freezer we could have moved to different units to help maintain their temperature. Also dry ice is available in some of our local grocery stores(if not sold out). Yet these frozen items might make the refrigerator too cold and damage sensitive food... Especially the super cold dry ice I suppose perhaps....although it is commonly used in coolers for recreation. But must be wrapped in newspaper/cardboard I've read, to avoid damage to the cooler bottom surface material. Perhaps we didn't even need a generator for one day of being without power. Although it seems these alternatives I speak of might not last long. Perhaps they should be implemented for a short expected outage. If we had outages more often, I suppose we would want to fill refrigerators and freezers with like Gell bags(gourmet to home food boxes often contain) to absorb the temperature and act as a cold sink to prolong the inside temperature during an outage. I believe the refrigerators need a max of 40 degrees F to maintain food and the freezers shouldn't thaw, yet that can take longer. I'm guessing the health department is just focused on not letting the temperature rise too much and for too long. It seems a waste to have a large gas generator sitting stored, which might not be needed often at all. Yet these new pricey lithium battery generators probably can't power so many cooling units or for long. It seems nothing very affordable could power the restaurant to keep it going/fully open. I mean it would have to power virtually everything. The high electricity users such as the 220v espresso machine, ALL the refrigerators, freezers, ice makers, dishwashers, stereo system, Sandwich grills. Thinking out of the box, allowed us to help a friend who lost power some years ago. To power his residential refrigerator with no available generator. We used a 12v power inverter attached to his car battery with the engine running and an extension cord. We were able to turn it on whenever his frig temp started to rise. He was without power for a week, with no food loss. But the inverter couldn't power much more than that. I know I've read that solar yard lights can be brought in to provide light inside a home at nite, and then brought back outside in the daytime to recharge, which is clever. Just looking for the prudent sweet spot solutions in all this and a deeper look into what I shared and what I've missed. Thank you Jim

We care about our staff and these concentrated chemicals can dangerous and even cause permanent blindness or eat through your gas pipe next to the range(don't ask how we know!). Their SDS's are too long to print/post or even read/remember. So we made this simple all encompassing sign to post, all compressed nicely down. Thought we'd share for those like minded: COMMERCIAL DISHWASHER’S 3 LIQUID-CHEMICALS HANDLING/WARNINGS These Are Highly Concentrated, NOT Like Your Home’s Mild & Slow Dishwasher Products. *Hazards: Chemical Skin Burns/Holes/Permanent Blindness* A Delayed/Sudden Burning Sensation Can Be Indicative Of Skin Exposure. Handle With Care & Avoid Exposure. Wear PPE, Eye Glasses, Gloves & Long Sleeves. Immediately After, Thoroughly Water Rinse/Mild Soap Wash: Hands/Any Potentially Exposed Skin Areas/Clothing & Spills. Eye Exposure: Water Rinse For 15+ Minutes. Remove Contact Lense If Present, Once Easy To Do. For A Serious Exposure/If Needed: Seek Medical Attention Protect Containers From: Damage/Fall/Impact. Acids/Other Purpose Chemicals. The Reach Of Children. Remedy Any Leaks & Avoid Stacking. May be Highly Corrosive To Pipes/Metals. Store In Suitable & Properly Labeled Containers. 1. DETERGENT: Removes & Suspends Soils & Grease/Oil. Typically Contains: A Very Strong Alkaline Formula, Such As Sodium Hydroxide. 2. RINSE AID: Speeds Drying, & Reduces: Hard Water Spots/Streaks. Need For Hand Drying/Polishing, For A Sparkling Shine. Typically Contains: Citric Acids, Alcohols And Other Things To Help Water Slip Off. Concentrated Rinse Aid Is Relatively Skin Safe, Compared To Detergent Or Sanitizer. 3. SANITIZER: Germicide/Disinfectant. Typically Contains: Chlorine Based Bleaching Agents. Never Allow This To Mix With Acid/Ammonia: Creates A Dangerous Chlorine Gas. (For Ingestion & More Info: See Mfg’s Online S.afety D.ata S.heet) = Take Care! COMMERCIAL DISHWASHER’S 3 LIQUID-CHEMICALS HANDLING/WARNINGS These Are Highly Concentrated, NOT Like Your Home’s Mild & Slow Dishwasher Products. *Hazards: Chemical Skin Burns/Holes/Permanent Blindness* A Delayed/Sudden Burning Sensation Can Be Indicative Of Skin Exposure. Handle With Care & Avoid Exposure. Wear PPE, Eye Glasses, Gloves & Long Sleeves. Immediately After, Thoroughly Water Rinse/Mild Soap Wash: Hands/Any Potentially Exposed Skin Areas/Clothing & Spills. Eye Exposure: Water Rinse For 15+ Minutes. Remove Contact Lense If Present, Once Easy To Do. For A Serious Exposure/If Needed: Seek Medical Attention Protect Containers From: Damage/Fall/Impact. Acids/Other Purpose Chemicals. The Reach Of Children. Remedy Any Leaks & Avoid Stacking. May be Highly Corrosive To Pipes/Metals. Store In Suitable & Properly Labeled Containers. 1. DETERGENT: Removes & Suspends Soils & Grease/Oil. Typically Contains: A Very Strong Alkaline Formula, Such As Sodium Hydroxide. 2. RINSE AID: Speeds Drying, & Reduces: Hard Water Spots/Streaks. Need For Hand Drying/Polishing, For A Sparkling Shine. Typically Contains: Citric Acids, Alcohols And Other Things To Help Water Slip Off. Concentrated Rinse Aid Is Relatively Skin Safe, Compared To Detergent Or Sanitizer. 3. SANITIZER: Germicide/Disinfectant. Typically Contains: Chlorine Based Bleaching Agents. Never Allow This To Mix With Acid/Ammonia: Creates A Dangerous Chlorine Gas. (For Ingestion & More Info: See Mfg’s Online S.afety D.ata S.heet) = Take Care!

Thank you for the conversation. I found the fix seems to be we bent the tips of both blades Down some. The staff says it seems to move the food down through the blade enough now, even when filled to capacity. We first loosened the attaching screws some as not to allow bending force to by chance crack the plastic center cone. Then we used 2 large pliers on one blade at a time. Take care

Ok thanks for the discussion and suggestions. The solution I found after bending the blades a bit several times per suggestions on this site and another is: I bent the 2 S blade’s 2 tips down. Because the food simply needs to get pulled down. And the S blade really can’t be bent much anywhere except for the tips. Even when placed in a vice bench. The spinning blades are throwing food out to the container walls but the blade must also pull food down to circulate it through the S blade. The staff says it is working alright now, problem solved. When I bent the tips, I didn’t bend too much but it is visible yet the bottom blade does not touch the bottom of the container there is still clearance. Also I made sure to loosen the metal S blade’s attachment to the plastic center cone screws to avoid any possible cracking of the plastic while flexing the blade tips. I always gripped the metal blade only with large pliars. Thanks again.

We are using the correct lid for the S blade per the manual. What I mean is the staff wouldn’t fill the container much because they found the food processor S blade wouldn’t pull the upper area down to chop it up properly.

No, they have stamped in them “this side up”.

Hi Just looking for Any insight and direction to this situation: Small commercial kitchen with a non-convection, 36" Wide, 6 stove burners SouthBend Brand Range Oven, Model# 300F that needs some replacement parts because some of the burner's pipes are rusted through. Also some gas leaks out of the burner knobs(I think that just needs to be taken apart and re-graphite greased). SO I see for just one replacement for the rusted burner is $487 on Amazon(had the best price found): Amazon.com: Southbend Range C50-00006 Stainless Steel Rear Burner : Appliances Amazon.com: Southbend Range C50-00006 Stainless Steel Rear Burner : Appliances www.amazon.com This range has other rusted through parts that need replacing. These crazy prices are cost prohibitive and makes the purchase of a new range make sense. Especially when I see what looks like a similar size SouthBend range for as low as $2700: https://www.katom.com/348-S36DNG.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=%5BROI%5D%20Shopping%20-%20PMax%20-%20Push%20Harder%20SKUs&utm_id=17563307644&utm_content=&utm_term=&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA9dGqBhAqEiwAmRpTC5r0Sk2TV3a9gQphyAU5t1vd7g73hA1hzlARR3pYLeDuOZM51bxOPxoCweQQAvD_BwE Yet another similar size SouthBend models are $6000, don't understand why: https://www.katom.com/348-4364DNG.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=%5BROI%5D%20Shopping%20-%20PMax%20-%20Push%20Harder%20SKUs&utm_id=17563307644&utm_content=&utm_term=&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA9dGqBhAqEiwAmRpTC6fDZOhahtkdX_Ewl6rCqOM8HXgfG6hyjjAd50FTLbuVSSCW8e7FLhoCnpEQAvD_BwE SouthBend 300F Manual-(Owner/Service/Parts/Schematic Wiring): https://static-pt.com/modelManual/SOU-CO-300_spm.pdf?v=1655476559196 Q's: 1. Are the replacement parts prices so high because its an old model(not sure how old) or does SouthBend price Gouge their parts? 2. Should we shop for a new Range instead of replacing parts on this old range? 2a. What Range brands are recommended (for price, reliability, serviceability, parts price/availability? 3. Are we missing something here or not understanding something about this situation? THANK YOU FOR ANY REPLIES! Take care Jim

Hi, Any suggestions?!: Our new Waring by Cuisinart Commercial Food Processor Model# FP2200 is not Pulling the upper food down properly to Cutting it all to size when using the supplied S blade. It won't turn the peas into Humus! This is causing our staff not to use this pricey machine! This S blade does have an upper small "wing" that doesn't seem to do much of anything. The blades look straight, sharp and are new... The blades do have screws and so are removable from the center plastic cone they are affixed to. So I can remove them and bend in a vice if that might help. But which way to bend them... The blades spin counter clockwise when turned on. I have called Waring customer service for a different matter in the past and they were no help whatsoever.. Anyone have an idea what to do/alter? Thank-You!