paulbrussel

Diner (September 2003) Tasting menu (42 €). Started with an aperitif: Billecart-Salmon Rosé (6,90 €), ordered after good advice a very interesting, characteristic Viña Cimbron 1999. 1) Co2 de mojito. A small glass filled with liquid and rum; the glass was filled with foam (Adrià) of mint. Nice start with the two tastes that rested separate in the glass but came together in you mouth. Nice combination, but much alcohol. 2) Bikini d'espàrrecs al pesto. Small sandwich with green asparagus; quite ordinary. 3) Bikini de pernil mozzarella i tartufo. Another small sandwich with ham, melted mozzarella and truffle. Nice harmony, but still quite normal. 4) Bonitol amb soia i jengibre. Small piece of tuna in a soy sauce. Little Asiatic influenced though. Tuna with a light smoky taste. Nice. Another piece of tuna with much more oil, more taste of fish. Nice too. 5) Llauna de xampinyons. Paris mushrooms, marinated in oil, with garlic and bacon. Seemed very simple but tasted very nice, almost à la campagne. 6) Llauna de barat amb ceciche. A small fish with tomato, herbs, vinaigrette. To acid for me. 7) Llauna de musclos en escabetx. Spanish mussels, also a bit acid. 8) Cornete de xips amb escopinys. A paper cornet filled with some chips and the taste of something like oysters but dried. Very fishy taste and very nice. 9) Ventresca amb pebre sechuan. Nice, sort of popcorn but tasty because of the sechuan. 10) Madalenes d'olives negres. To tiny Madeleine cakes of black olives Very nice, very taste. Excellent! 11) Rabes amb vinagre. Radish with a special but very sharp taste and much acid. Advice to finish this range of dishes was therefore excellent. 12) Tagliatelles vegetals. Just tagliatelli of cucumber with yoghurt. Just nice. 13) Les sopes d'estiu. Three summer soups in small glasses. First one with cocos: very nice (and which reminded me very much of the nice soupe glacée of Cavaillon melon of Daniel Boulud). Second was really a soup with melon, also very nice. Third soup was concentrated cherry soup: very nice too. 13) Salmó & salmó. Just salmon with salmon eggs, sauce of vanilla and a little bit of dill. Excellent dish, extremely well balanced. 14) Surprise egg An egg filled with a sort of sabayon, mixed with truffle. Very, very nice and excellent (which reminded me a bit of the dish Huevo Cremoso con "Tartufo Bianco di Alba" I had last year at Gaig in Barcelona and which was one of the most impressive dishes I had in 20002). 15) Hamburguesa de foie i tófona. Just a plain hamburger. 16) Llagostins cruixents amb romesco. A langoustine with a light crust. Very well cooked, just right, and given with the famous and very nice romesco sauce. Excellent, well balanced dish again! 17) Foie i préssec. Goose liver with peach and just a bit aceto balsamico. I liked the liver, but found it nicer without the fruits… Next to it came a glass with a liquid of red peach which was very nice. 18) Roast beef amb brots al wok. Very soft roast beef with some groceries "al wok". Good but a bit ordinary. 19) Les tapes dolces. Four desserts. First a soup of breams (?): nice! A coupe of 'pinacolada' crème of cocos with a bit of peach at the bottom, very creamy and very nice. Thirdly, a cream of apricot: very nice too. To finish with the famous crème brûlée Catalane; just good. Many small dishes, some very nice, some just nice but not very exciting or showing the creativity I had perhaps too much expected here. [My rating: 15/20.]

Well, I have been to Ibiza and I was quite impressed by the restaurant Cana Ioana where among others I had a great dish with beans and truffle. Since I liked it so much, I went back the other day.

(They said lamb, the menu gave veal, I didn't recall.) If I do give the impression that this is classic, that's not what I meant at all - sorry: that must be my bad English or lack of expressing myself in that language... It is classic oriented, but I did compare him with Alain Dutournier, also one that is not classic at all. Anyway: I am definitely going back next time, and it was the best meal I had during those days in BCN (mainly because of the perfection, I suppose), although I am much more into innovative cuisine and I was very much impressed by the young chefs of hisop and Alkimia - the latter are more exciting cuisines, but I can't say I was not 'excited' about Santamaria. And you are quite right: it is much easier to talk about surprising, new, innovative cuisine...

Lunch at Can Fabes (September 2003) Interior: mixture of classic and modern. Menu: tasting menu 118 € (without 7 % VAT) Wine: excellent wine list; in fact there are five for different parts: champagnes, white wines, red wines, port and sherry, digestive. Many Spanish, but also excellent ones from France – the latter always to be the great cru's. Not many old wines though. With the glass of cava came a tablet with 2 times 6 amuses-gueules, all very nice. Chosen wine (after the good glass of cava): a white rioja: El Dorado de Murietta 1998, of the same house as those of Marqués de Murietta Ygay. I found it a very nice wine with many different tastes, full bodied, not too easy but rather complex and with a nice after taste. First course: Veal Carpaccio with fresh anchovys / Cordero y anchoas frescas. 'Sauce' with much oil, then the anchovy, then the veal, all in a mixture of oil and bouillon. More classic impression, quite a taste of fat. Next to it came as a side dish caviar of egg plant with some spring onion. Simple but good. Second course: Fennel Cream with crab / Crema de hinojo con buey de mar. A small tartar of crab meat. The cream was put in the plate separately. Impressive dish, almost perfect. Third dish: "Pasta a la plancha" with red pepper and basil / Pasta a la plancha con pimiento y albahaca. A sort of pancake of pasta with pesto and the great and famous romesco sauce. Some basil and finished with rasped Parmesan cheese. Excellent balance between everything again. Fourth course: Lobster with tomatoes and oninos "sofrito" / Cangrejos de río con sofrito de cebolla y tomate. A small but excellent cooked lobster from the river, with tomatoes and different sorts of salad with a vinaigrette. All went well together: sweet taste of the lobster, sweet of the tomatoes and the sour taste of the vinaigrette mixed beautifully, and also different bites. Fifth course: "Cocotte" of scampi with "bouillabaise" juice / "Cocotte" de langoustinos al jugo de bollabessa. A bouillon with different legumes (carrot, zucchini, etc.) Then: red mullet fillet and the king prawns. The bouillon was extremely hot (in the beginning), but amazingly the cuisson of the prawns and mullet, as well of the legumes was excellent (although seconds do not make that much of a difference for the latter). Main dish: Sweet bread with mashed potatoes / Ris de veau con puré de patatas. Just good sweet bread with the potatoes puree. Quite heavy since the sweet bread was caramelised. Good but not creative at all. I took a glass of red wine with it. [This caused the only real complaint. I asked the sommelier first whether I should not better take half a bottle from the wine list. He suggested some by the glass; the first was to simple, but I could change to another one – opened the day before and it had the acid of a too old wine. The third was then OK.] Bit strange perhaps, but I asked for a second main course that was suggested at the beginning: wild pigeon. And since I do like that very much, I really wanted to have it. It came with goose liver and it was a great dish. After the Fabes cheeses board / Quesos Fabes came desserts, coffee and petits fours. I thought it was an excellent meal! Classic, more French oriented. But all so well prepared and excellent products. Not old fashioned at all, there were modern influences as well. [My rating: 19/20.]

Since I have been to BCN last week, I visited several restaurants. Can Fabes is not Adrià'n cooking at all. It is more classical inspired and reminded me much more of Alain Dutournier in Paris. But it was great and it has an excellent wine list. I had the tasting menu which I liked very much. [by the way, I went there by train (30 minutes on the express train from centre of BCN) which went very well; I am not sure it runs late in the evenings, but there is a website of regional trains.] Of all the others I visited (Commerç 24, Alkimia, Àbac, Espaisucre, Gaig, Hisop and Cat 1.81), I liked the young chefs of Alkimia and Hisop the most, although not very Adrià either but certainly very modern and personal. PS: I posted a brief description of my meal in the Can Fabes thread.

Unfortunately, my one and only experience at Gordon Ramsay was in August 2002. And I do fully agree, what else could you do then compare with your previous, other and recent experiences elsewhere. My experience at Ramsay's was not one that reminded me of innovative cuisine, but more personal, slightly modern, excellent cuisine based on more classic cooking. Probably I will go to London next month, but since I heard about Pied a Terre as well, I could perhaps better reserve a table there. Although I do like the innovative cuisine more, I can highly appreciate the more modern cuisine based on classic cooking.

Is it really fair to compare your meal of years ago with that one you had now? I suppose you, as well as he have evolved quite a lot. To be surprised / impressed will be for you much more difficult. And although it should not happen at a three star restaurant, there could have been simply a day off, and then, compared with you high expectations? Go back to Pied a Terre for your 20th wedding anniversary... I will be very curious what you will say then [i won't talk about the passion Winot is talking about.]

Some users may be vulnerable to charges they have a vested interest, or that their personal tastes lead them to prefer dining in Spain, but I, Robert Brown and possibly paulbrussel, arrived in Spain with prejudices for French food, but now find Spain exciting and satisfying. Well, on the moment you were writing this, I was enjoying Barcelona food . Nevertheless, I do fully agree with you, as I have said before, that Spain is sort of ignored by Michelin. Just to give an impression of my own [very personal!] ratings for the meals I had in the last couple of days [but I will update later on the meals, if you want]: Comerç 24: 14-14.5/20 Alkimia: 16-16.5/20 Abac*: 16/20 Can Fabes***: 19/20 Espaisucre: 14/20 Gaig*: 16/20 Hisop: 16-16.5/20 Cata 1.81: 13/20. Nevertheless, I spoke to several of the chefs, and of course the NYT was mentioned, but also the French and Spanish, the traditional Spanish and innovative cuisine. Perhaps to your surprise, most of them are not at all Adrià-followers, but more French orientated. And I did take the NYT article after the chefs talks much more easy. Nowadays there is a big difference in French and Spanish creative restaurants; but the French and Spanish traditional cooking can't be ignored at all. If even the chefs say that French cuisine means much to them. The one that was the most Adrià (who I admire greatly!), disappointed me the most. That a restaurant like Alkimia, which for me was one of the most interesting together with Hisop, is not mentioned by Michelin at all, is ridiculous! [Considering that my personal ratings can be compared in general from 16.5 onwards to two Michelin stars...]

The bankruptcy has become definite today, by decision of the Court. There will be no restart.

For foodie shops I would rather recommend the Guide Champérard - there are also many (good!) critics on restaurants in this great guide.

Txs, First, I thought we get ordered to book a table in september . Nevertheless, I will try to book a table in October and buy the book as well in the restaurant. Great: the first book of PG.

May I ask something in general? Not familiar with all, apparently famous, restaurants, I do not always now where to find restaurants that are only mentioned by their name. In this case it was not too difficult to find out that it was in London, but still. BTW, it is the same for chefs, regularly mentioned here only with their first names; and also then it takes me some time to figure out who are they talking about.

Some people say that the density of great restaurants, compared to the number of inhabitants, is nowhere as good as in... Brussels :-) But perhaps I am prejudiced...

Well, I sometimes do get the impression here that I haven't been to restaurants at all! :-) And indeed: that's all! I do think that since I haven't been to the French Laundry, Alain Passard, Blumenthal, Alain Ducasse, that I haven't been every where... But I do admit as well that it is also a question of money; the Parisian chefs I mentioned and I haven't been too, are terribly expensive! But I can admit: I have been twice to el Bulli, several times to Pierre Gagnaire, I will be to Can Fabes next weekend, and I will revisit Gordon Ramsay soon as well... But still - it is probably that I am so impressed by eGullet and there members that I feel a bit "that's all" :-)

Do you really think so? Elsewhere I have stated that the Brussels ***, Comme chez soi, does not at all deserve, in my view, three stars. The same has been said by others about Paul Bocuse (which I can't judge, and I am not interested in his ***-restaurant). But I can't judge it completely; I have only been in ten *** so far.

About Michelin, especially in France, have been various discussions; not every one believes that France is as good as it looks in Michelin but that there is a sort of strategy and self protection of French cuisine, compared to other great countries, notably Spain. Although I do believe that the 10 *** in Paris seem to be quite good, but I can't judge them all myself.

Il Latini is indeed a very nice and good place to eat, and cheap as well. But they don' accept reservations, as is more often the case in simple trattoria's; I was told, when I went there, to be there about 30 minutes before it opens and then you don't need to wait too long to get in, although there was already a line of about 20 people. Most of the people lining up are Italians, I thought. However, I heard that the other bib gourmand's in Firenze are better / more interesting [Del Fagioli and Trattoria Cibreo-Cibreino]. I can't judge, I am afraid, but I would like to get more info about them.

Bojo can be good or bad. It is just very simple and if you don't have luck, it can be horrible. Difficult to recommned in my view, because of the lack of stability in quality... Anyway, it is very cheap - that remains true.

Txs! That is what I thought - I will call again tomorrow - if I don't manage, I would be very gratful to you to be able to come back to you! I will lett you know...

It is a very short and quick statement he made, I think, perhaps based on a very quick and in a way superficial interview. I don't believe BTW in jealousy for Mr Gagnaire - which doesn't seem to me to be in his character. And I do think that there has been a change in France. It can't beat Spain, I think, but you can't blame him to be a bit chauvinistic. Also at eGullet, I think, there are traces of young chefs in France that try to do their best to change to a new cuisine. I still think that in general it is far behind what happens in Spain, but I think Gagnaire is right in the statement that history and tradition in France will matter too. Also Adrià and Arzak believe in tradition, and since culinary haute cuisine in France has longer history, there is an advantage not to be forgotten.

I tried to book at Alkimia just now, but they told me that you had to book a table for 7 - 8 people - you can't dine there alone!? I was surprised... (They didn't speak English, so I spoke French.) Has anyone more information about this?

Txs a lot! I was a bit afraid, as you gathered right... I am very curious, but can update later if any one would be interested. I do know BCN - I have been there several times now, sometimes work, mostly for pleasure (= dining), as will be the case now. It is quite a nice area indeed!

Well, GaultMillau suggests quite otherwise. Anyway, I have given elsewhere a description of the meal at Bristol's, indicating why I was disappointed. And of course, "surprising" is perhaps a difficult term to use and very personal. I must say that I am already quite satisfied when I have one "surprising" dish (no matter in what way: prepared excellently, dish that is full of harmony) in a meal. Being surprised almost continuously, as can happen in some Spanish restaurants, or at Pierre Gagnaire, is very rare to me.

Next week I will be dining at Comerç 24. My reservation was confirmed. But, since I am dining alone, I could not get a table in the restaurant but have to take a seat at the bar - sounds like New York's Nobu. I really hope that this doesn't imply that I cannot get the tasting menu. Anyway, I think it's rather odd not to get a table when you are booking a month in advance... We will see.

In what way? I was at La Régalade last December and I liked it a lot; it is indeed pure, but modern. I liked it more then the Bristol, as you know. [My ratings: La Régalade: 15/20, Bristol: 14/20.] Just because I found the food rustic, does not mean I thought the cooking lacked finesse. That was wahat I found strange in a way about La Régalade - it seems simple and rustic, but after all, it isn't to me. It surprised me, more then Bristol did - but of course in quite another sense then Gagnaire or Adrià could do. Since you normally take a three course menu at La Régalade, there is no way of getting from high a to high e, so to speak...