Gambero Rosso Digest

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Please, do not add replies to this thread, which is intended as collection of ongoing digests of the Gambero Rosso magazine. If you wish to discuss any particular article or theme please start a new topic. To go the digest of the most recent issue just follow this snapback link ←

April '04 Issue

In this month's Editorial: introducing the new GR layout. More wine articles and degustation notes and a new price oriented division of wine and restaurant reviews

Daniele Cernilli's Wine Editorial attacks the EU, for its blindness, and the Italian political class, for its inactivity, on the denomination problem. (The EU has recently decided that while local denominations are to be protected, like Valpolicella and Montalcino, the same doesn't hold for non strictly terroir connected ones, like Amarone, Recioto and Brunello. These latter ones can eventually be protected from the wine consortiums in question.)

Cover story: Il panino

- The origins and today: The history of panini and the reasons for today's panini trend.

-Milan, the Italian panini capital: A critical view of Milano's panini scene. The virdict: a few really good addresses but also a lot of confused ideas and all at quite high prices

Young Italian Chefs: an ongoing series presenting the most promising Italian young chefs

-Paola Budel,Galleria dell'Hotel Principe di Savoia, Milano. After a working history Gualtiero Marchesi and Gavroche, just to name the most important, Paola Budel leads the kitchen of the Hotel Principe di Savoia, trying to replace the somewhat old-fashioned with a more modern style. Recipe: L'oca nel piatto (goose on the dish) a creative dish using breast, leg and neck of the bird to create a play of textures and flavours

-Davide Oldani, D'O, Cornaredo (MI). Oldani is Gualtiero Marchesi's former sous. His recently opened restaurant D'O, situated in the Milanese hinterland, bravely tries to match high end cooking and low prices (lunch menu starting at 11,50 Euro) by focusing on cheap ingredients and hard work. Recipe: Caramelised onion with warm and cold Parmesan cream

-Niko Romito, Ristorante Reale, Rivisondoli (Aq). A self thought cook who recently attracted lots of attention from reviewers and foodies around Italy. Recipe: destructured Pancotto (a classical recipe from Abruzzi)

Indovina chi viene a cena: Vyerat and Cracco

Episode of the GR organised series of meeting between French and Italian chefs. Vyerat, the king of mountain herbs and holder of 6 Michelin stars and 2 20/20 from GM, meets Cracco, chef of the acclaimed Cracco-Peck in Milan.

Vertical degustation of San Leonardo (Trentino)

The history of the vinyard and the Guerrieri Gonzaga family

Great wines: Barbaresco

A chronological tale of Barbaresco's history. From the origins in 1893 till today, passing through the founding of the Cantina dei Produttori di Barbaresco, the first signs of success in the '70s, Gaja's worldwide recognition in the '80s, the growing number of successful high-quality producers in the 90's from Bruno rocca finishing with the Rivetti's brothers La Spinetta. Portraits of emerging producers: Piero Busso,Ada Nada, Lequio

Donne del vino, ongoing series of articles presentig portraits of Italy's wine women

In this issue Luisa Averna (of the famous Amaro Averna grouo), working at Villa Frattina in Friuli talks about the emotion of working with wine. Chiara Lungarotti describes growing up in her family vineyard and her work today as wine-maker. Elena Perdomini (Podere San Giorgio, PV) about her work as marketing director for the family vineyard and her plans for the future.

Wine stories: Chianti Rufina.

A look at the less-Chianti like of the Chianti DOCs discussing if the region should remain inside the Chianti denomination or not and how new combined agronomic-enologic studies might bring a change in the wines produced here

Food itineraries

-Val Venosta, Sudtirol/Alto Adige.

-Pollino, Calabria.

Parma Special:

-Prosciutto di Parma and Parmigiano Reggiano: moving towards higher quality? The article analyses the situation for these two famous Italian products, between pleasant but average "mass products" and the few producers going for top quality.

-High quality food industry: A portrait of a the food industries, some of the very few in Italy, producing high-end base products for the restaurant business,

-The best salumi from Parma: an article on the best "less known" salumi of the Parmesan traditiond from culatello to lardo, from4 different salami (crespone, gentile, verdiano and pallavicino) to spalla cruda.

-The other face of Parma, Oasi di Neviano and its organic products

-Eating out: The review of Parma best eating spots portraits a city still much anchored to it's traditional regional cooking, often well prepared, but in most cases excessively priced

Wine tasting

-Top range wines. In this issue: Langhe rosso Sefile (Nada) '99, Montepulciano D'Abruzzo Villa Gemma (Masciarelli) '99, Moscato passito di Pantelleria Martignana (Murana) '99, Trento Giulio Ferreri riserva del fondatore (Ferrari) '93, Montiano (Falesco) '01, Batar (Querciabella) '01, Collio Chardonnay Selezion (Borgo del Tiglio) '01, Amarone della Valpolicella Acinatico (Accordini) '01, Acininobili (Maculan) '00, Pelago (Umani Ronchi) '00, Montevetrano '01

-Wines under 30 Euro: focus on Veneto

-Wines under 8 Euro: focus on Toscana

-Beer tasting: British ales

Luciano Di Lillo's Contrappunto on Lupicaia and Maremma wines

Chef's recipes

-Luciano Pompili, from the restaurant Symposim in Cartoceto (Ps) cooks Castelluccio lentil soup with squab breast, tacconi di biada (home made fava flour pasta) and baccala', Cardamom flavoured chocolate tartlet with toasted coffee sauce

-Agata Parisella, from Agata e Romeo in Rome, cooks Viole di bosco (ravioli made from bluberry flavoured dough with mushroom stuffing), Rabbit loin with aubergine puree, Sharon fruit and yogurt mousse.

- Angelo Troiani from Il Convivio in Rome prepares a gourmet sandwich with coppa di testa (cured headcheese), mayonnaise, scamorza, anchovies and puntarelle (a typical Roman salad)

"Tastes"

In this issue Cheeses presented by Alberto Marcomini, Italy's first maitre formagier: mountain and goat cheeses with many cheeses form Veneto

Book reviews: Davide Paolini (Sole 24ore gastronomic critc) Pasta an Bread A to Z books, Anjali Mendes Indian Cuisine (presented as not only Tajines (sic)), La Crisi di crescita, a book on Fair Trade, Cucinare nelle Dolomiti, aboutSudtirol's cuisine, and two music and food books: Ensaladas e Pasticci (Rollin), a book about classical music and food anecdotes, and Canzoni da magiare (Raganin) between rock and pop and recipes

Nutrition

A very unflattering article demolishing the Atkins diet

As usual the issue includes many restaurant, bar and food-shops reviews.

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With quite some delay, here it is.

Gambero Rosso June Issue digest

Editorial

see the thread about Italian restaurants from a few weeks ago.

Wine editorial

Daniele Cernilli previews the '99 Brunelli di Montalcino and gives them the thumbs up. These are wines which, in his opinion, the wine enthusiast should invest some money on even in times of economic "difficulty". Some of the wines named as a good investment: Poggio di Sotto (Palmucci), Poggione, Pietranera (Centolani)

The event: Sirio Maccioni gives a short interview in occasion of the launch of his autobiography and talks about La Cirque, his views on restaurants, his plans to bring "his" Italian cuisine to Paris, and his critical views on Italy's too French-influenced new chefs

Wine Bar story

This month's cover story is about the wine bar phenomenon in Italy. Ranging from restaurants with a focus on wine to places serving fine wines by the glass with a few cheeses and salumi, wine bars are becoming more and more popular in Italy, since their beginning in the mid '70s. They are the natural evolution of the osterie and wine shops.

A brief interview with Giorgio Pinchiorri opens this special. Pinchiorri opened his famous Enoteca in Firenze back in '72 with a concept very similar to today's wine bars. Only in '79 did Enoteca Pinchiorri start to serve food. Pinchiorri shares his wine philosophy, his new wine interest (Spain and Argentina) and his not too flattering opinion on today's wine bars.

A few symbolic wine-bars are presented:

- Enoteca del Gatto, in Anzio (Roma). This wine shop and now wine-bar has been one of the important players in the gastronomic "revolution" which has turned Anzio in one of the most interesting places for seafood restaurants. They've been responsible for setting up the wine list of many of the city's restaurants.

- Enoteca Ombre Rosse in Parma, an emerging and young wine bar with a love for Spain and spanish wine.

- Enoteca Picone in Palermo, probably the best wine shop in Sicily and a precursor in southern Italy where the wine bar phenomenon still hasn't reached the proportions seen elsewhere in Italy.

- Enoteca Vanni in Lucca, is an example of a wine shop between old, with its tradition and middle age cellars, and new, with their on-line sale system.

- Treviso's Vineria story is instead one of a group of wine lovers who have decided to open the wine shop of their dreams: low prices, up to 40 wines to try by the gass and a big collection of smaller producers and smart buys.

- Last but not least Vinus Peter's Weinbistro in Brixen/Bressanone (BZ), the shop of Peter Kantioler, former sommelier at Pichler (Val Pusteria), offering all the best of South Tyrol's wine production.

Syrah and Shiraz: GR reports on the birth "Syrah Worldwide", a network of syrah wine producers from around the world, including personalities like Michel Chapuotier (France), Lagier Meredith (USA) and Planeta (Italy).

Tastings

Top wines (over 30 Euro): Cerviolo Rosso '00 (S.fabiano Calcinaia), Terre di Franciacorta Chardonnay '00 (Ca' del Bosco), Fratta '00 (Maculan), Barbaresco Serraboella '00 (Cigliuti), Recioto della Valpolocella '01 (Begali), Collio Merlot Selezione '99 (Toros).

Some of the best Italian whites in the category between 30 and 8 Euro

Wines under 8 Euro: focus on Abbruzzo

Beer: porter and stouts

The chef's school. Three recipes from chef Gaetano Trovato of "Arnolfo" (Colle Val d'Elsa, SI): thyme perfumed red mullet filets with artichoke variation, lamb variation with Taggiasche olives stuffed salted potato and Brunello sauce, puffed and caramelised green apple tart with Calvados sorbet.

Cheese tasting. Focus on "pasta filata" cheeses, i.e. cheeses produced with the shaped-curd method, like mozzarella. The tasting ranges from fresh cheeses, like mozzarella and burrata, to ripe ones, like caciocavallo podolico and ragusano.

Books. This month's reviews: JM Smith's "L'inganno a tavola" on genetically modified organisms, the re-published Luigi Veronelli classic "Alla ricerca dei cibi perduti", P. Mazza's "I grandi vini del mondo", "Racconti a DOP" a fiction-food pastiche with stories centring on DOP products from Modena, "Primi piatti alle stelle" a collection of the best primi piatti from Italy's top chefs published by Bibliotheca Culinaria, "Cucina da mar" on the evolution and history of sea cuisine around Veneto.

Health and food. This month's theme is overweight children. The role of familiar and personal habits is analysed. The negative role of TV (as opposed to more physically engaging activities) and snacking outside meals is highlighted.

In Viaggio: food notes from around Italy

Restaurant: Chef Marco Ceriani's Spezie (Gerenzano, VA). The spices of the restaurant name refer mainly to the ones traditional to the North Italian cooking (like saffron and nutmeg), though a "fusion" menu is offered as well.

Agriturismo: Monte Pu' (Castiglione Chiavarese, GE). Aurora Giani runs this agriturismo cosisting of a former Benedictine building and the surrounding land which gives plenty of organic ingredients for the kitchen.

Bar: Denis Buosi's (Varese) creations make this bar and pastry-shop an emerging address for the chocolate lovers in Italy.

Artisans: In this issue highlight on the meats and salumi classics from Macelleria Carani (Bevagna, PG) and the interesting ice cream, both classics and new creative ones (like parmesan and pears, dukkah with hazelnuts, cumin, coriander and sesame) from Fatamorgana (Rome).

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A little note: if anyone is wondering what happened to the July (and May) issue, well I still haven't got mine. Not totally Gambero Rosso's fault, who've actually been very helpful once I contacted them to complain, but rather a recurring problem with the subscription service company GR uses, which is... well, not the best I've ever met.

Gambero Rosso, August '04

In this short, vacation-time issue

Editorial comment: Stefano Bonilli sums up the positive changes the Italian food and wine scene has undergone, especially in regard to the protection of typical products, and the great work still ahead of Italy's food lovers.

Wine editorial comment: Daniele Cernilli analyses the state of affordable wine in Italy lamenting how entire DOCs, such as the Barbera and Dolcetto ones, have disappeared from GR's every day wine guide (under 8 €), Almanacco del Bere Bene. This, the author claims, could be potentially negative as many of these wines have been, for many Italians, the starting point eventually leading to quality wines.

Special: Last minute gourmet. This issue's special gives a few last minute eating-out tips for the foodies travelling around Italy and Europe

- Paul Kitching's Juniper, Altrincham. For more info look at the UK and Ireland forum Juniper thread.

- Peter Millson's Les trois salons, Uzes. Hailed as one of the most interesting young chefs in France, the Swede comes from three years working under Michael Portos. In this little town south of Avignon Millson prepares dishes which look at Provence through Scandinavian eyes.

- Nicola and Flavia Silvestri's Il Gelso di S.Martino, Cazzago S.Martino (BS). After working for some of Italy's best known big names, Marchesi, Pinchiorri and Santini the Silvestri siblings have decided to go back home, between Bergamo and Brescia, and open their own restaurant. This hard to find establishment seems to have all the numbers to become one of the most interesting addresses of the region.

- Riccardo Agostini's Il povero diavolo, Torriana (RN). Agostini's year-long experience as sous chef under Vissani, Italy's most media-exposed chef, have made this one of Italy's most awaited new openings. His cooking has already impressed the critics: his dishes still show the influence of his teacher but already show a promising strong personal touch.

- Christophoros Peskias's, 48 The restaurant, Athens. Peskias has been acclaimed as the best Hellenic chef in the Greek press and runs the kitchen of one of Athens most fashionable restaurants, 48. His destructured traditional cooking tries to show a side of Greek cuisine very distant from the food tourists have used to know as Greek fare.

Wine Special: Prosecco spumante

Prosecco di Conegliano e Valdobbiadene is one of the few Italian wines, in these wine export crisis times, that has managed to increase its sales in the last years. Marco Sabellico looks at how this wine has managed to compete with cheaper "frizzanti" Prosecco and other sparkling wines on the international markets and at the projects the local wine consortium is carrying out. Short interviews with Franco Admai from the homonymous wine firm and Pierluigi Bolla of Valdo Spumanti.

Donne di vino, wine's women portraits: Katia Gabrielli, wine maker at Velenosi

Italian Microbreweries: Microbirrificio Beba, Villar Perosa (TO), A portrait of one of Italy's first microbreweries its history and production, which concentrates on German and Czech style beers.

Wine tasting

- top range, this month wines from international wine sorts with two intruders (Serpico from aglianico and Gagliole from sangiovese) : Camelot '01 (Firriato), Alghero Maarchese di Villa Marina '99 (Sella e Mosca), Serpico '00 (Feudi di San Gregorio), Collezione De Marchi Syrah '99 (Isole Olena), I Renai '00 (San Gervasio), Gagliole rosso '01 (Le Gagliole).

- between 8 and 30 €: summer wines. Full bodied whites and light reds from Italian grape sorts

- under 8 €: focus on Sardinia

Contrappunto, Luciano Di Lello's column on wine: this month the author discusses his impressions on the 2001 Aglianico wines. The author underlines how this grape might be the most important autochthonous grape for the future development of Italy's wine world. In this first part (to be finished next month) he looks at the "minor" aglianico DOCs like Cilento, with two wines Zero (De conciliis) and Respiro (Rotolo) as top wines for the area, and Taburno, here with Bue Apis as top wine.

La scuola dello chef: chef recipes. In this issue Mark Ellman and his Maui-Mex creations

(note: I've translated the titles of the recipe from Italian back to English so it might be that the names are somewhat different from Ellman's original ones. If anyone knows what Ellman calls these dishes in English please write me a PM and I'll correct them). The recipes: Maui chicken salad with ginger vinegar and soy, whole fried fish in black bean sauce, spare ribs with mango barbecue sauce.

Panini d'autore: panini created by Italian chefs

Marco Milani, chef of San Rocco (Monterotondo, Roma) prepares a "Panzanella with burrata d'Andria and Mortadella Bologna".

Reviews highlights

Restaurant: 1500 (restaurant of the Vigilius Mountain resort), Lana (BZ). In one of Sudtyrol's most exclusive hotels chef Paul Schrott, with experiences ranging from China to Heinz Winkelr (Germany's top chef, 15 times Michelin 3 stars), offers a refined and light Mediterranean cooking enriched with a touch of local ingredients and traditions.

Wine Bar: La Porta, fraz. Monticchiello, Pienza (SI). This pleasant wine-bar between Pienza and Montepulciano offers some of the best wines from the surrounding Val d'Orcia. The food offer, concentrating on fine salumi, cheeses and some local classics, is a good match for the wines offered and has received praises from the press in Italy and abroad.

Hotel: Altafiumara Hotel, Villa S. Giovanni (RC). On Calabria's tip, looking at Sicily, this new ambitious five star hotel hopes to become a shining example of what Southern Italian hospitality can be. It is designed for minimal impact as a group of small "settlements", adorned with Italian modern art, without loosing touch with the gastronomic side.

Agriturismo: Il casale nel parco, Norcia (PG). At the border between Umbria and Marche, in the Monti Sibillini national park, this agriturismo offers a perfect blend of nature , sports and local, meat centred, home-style cooking.

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Gambero Rosso, September '04 Issue

Editorial. Could Spain be an example of what the Italian restaurant business needs? This month's editorial compares the Italian and Spanish restaurant situation, with a look at laws, political protections, image issues and leading personalities (or lack thereof) in both lands.

Wine Editorial. A new wave of "extreme" wines is gaining ground in Italy. Wines made with unusual wine-making techniques, often giving products far away form the accepted quality standards of today. Is everything negative though? The editorial looks at how some of these "extreme wines", like Gravner's Ribolla from 2001 (note: a white fermented in huge ceramic amphorae with long skin contact) might be an example of how unusual yet great these wines can be when properly done.

The case: Francois Simon's Toscane(s). A review of the Figaroscope critic new novel, laden with gastronomic citations.

Reportage: the future of Italy's cuisine. A special feature presenting 20 of the most interesting young Italian chefs. The article looks at their view of cooking, professional history, relationships with their colleagues, and research between tradition and creativity.

A brief overview of the 20 chefs picked by Gambero Rosso:

- Fabio Barbaglini, Caffe' Groppi, Trecate (Novara)

- Enrico Rippa, will be at the helm of Bruno Ceretto's new project in Alba

- Davide Palluda, All'Enoteca, Canale (Cuneo)

- Paola Budel, Galleria dell'Hotel Principe di Savoia, Milano

- Nicola Cavallaro, Ama, Milano

- Davide Oldani, D'O, Cornaredo (Milano)

- Matteo Pisciotta, Osteria del Sass, Besozzo (Varese)

- Nicola Silvestri, Il Gelso di San Martino, Cazzago San Martino (Brescia)

- Riccardo Agostini, Povero Diavolo, Torriana (Ravenna)

- Massimo Bottura, Osteria Francescana, Modena

- Massimiliano Poggi, Al Cambio, Bologna

- Marco Garfagnini, Ninan, Carrara

- Paolo Lopriore, Il Canto de 'Hotel Certosa di Maggiano, Siena

- Enrico Pezzoti, La Trota, Rivodutri (Rieti)

- Niko Romito, Reale, Rivisondoli (L'Aquila)

- Rocco Iannone, Il Faro di Capo D'Orso, Maiori (Salerno)

- Carmelo Chiaramonte, Il Cuciniere del Katane Palace Hotel, Catania

- Pino Cuttaia, La Madia, Licata (Agrigento)

- Ciccio Sultano, Il Duomo, Ragusa

- Roberto Petza, S'Apposentu, Cagliari

Indovina chi viene a cena, (guess who's coming for dinner) Italian and French chefs meet. In this episode: Gennaro Esposito and Nicolas Vagnon. Vagnon, enfant terrible and acclaimed as one of the best neo-bistro chefs of the Parisian scene (Le Table de Lucullus) meets Esposito, one of Italy's raising stars and chef at Torre del Saracino.

Great wines Focus on Fiano and Greco di Tufo. An overview of the many new wine-makers and an in-depth look at the best producers: Feudi di San Gregorio, Mastroberardino, Pietracupa, Villa Raiano, and Colli di Lapio.

Vertical wine tastings: Masseto, the Merlot wine from Ornellaia.

Sweden Special: see the post on the Elsewhere in Europe forum ←

Wine tasting

Over 30 Euro: Saffredi '00 Le Pupille (92), Barolo Cerquio Tenuta Secolo '99 Contratto (91), Amarone della Valpolicella Cl. Casa dei Bepi '98 Viviani (90), Montefalco Sagrantino 25 anni '00 Arnaldo Caprai (90), Bolghieri Rosso Superiore Paleo '00 Le Macchiole (88), Casalferro '00 Barone Ricasoli (88).

between 8 and 30 Euro: Barbera 2001

under 8 Euro: everyday wines from international grapes

Contrappunto Luciano di Lello praises the quality of the 2001 Aglianico del Vulture, some of the best Aglianico made in the last years.

The Chef's school: this Month Anthony Genovese, chef of "Il Pagliaccio" in Rome cooks thyme flavored loup de mer with mushroom mashed potatoes, fried borage and Fondant Tropea onion, Lamb skewers with ginger caramel sweetbreads, puntarelle and crunchy polenta, White chocolate tart.

Books. Reviews of: Ricette di Osterie d'Italia, Il Pesce (Slow Food) over 600 fish recipes and related information, from regional names to fishing methods; Patricia Gaffney's novel "Il cuore nel Piatto" (Salani); Il Cibo dell'Altro (Edizioni Lavoro), an essay on Torino as a melting pot of culinary traditions; Elsa Petersen-Schepelern grilling book, Grigliate (Luxury books); Bibliotheca Culinaria's Antipasti a collection of starters recipes from 28 of Italy's best chefs; Torte from Maxine Clarke (Luxury books), a collection of savory and sweet cake recipes.

Nutrition and Health. Vitamin E, food and the importance of this vitamin for our health.

The Hotel: Il Monastero, Ischia (NA). Part of the project of renewing the Castello Aragonese of Ischia, this new hotel occupies the former convent. The conversion of the old cells to hotel rooms is only apart of the restoration project, involving the nearby chapel, cloister and gardens.

The Agriturismo: Tenuta Stoccatello, Menfi (AG). A pleasant agriturismo, near the beautiful Porto Palo, now also producing liqueurs according to ancient recipes.

The Wine Bar: Uve e Forme, Roma. A new address in the growing Rome wine-bar scene, in San Lorenzo. Interesting food-wine pairings from sommelier Sabrina Iasillo, previously at Uno e Bino.

The artisan: Il Gelatauro, Bologna. This well known ice cream shop, acclaimed as one of the best in Europe from the Observer and the German magazine Focus, reopens in its new home, near Porta San Vitale.

The Artisan:Fontegranne, Belmonte Piceno (AP). A small producer from Marche, focusing on raw milk cheeses inspired by the French and Piemontese tradition.

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Gambero Rosso digest: October ’04 issue

Editorial: Stefano Bonilli comments on the situation of tourism in Italy, its crisis, the lack of serious services and ideas with an eye to the political decisions of the Italian government, which, instead of offering a plan of intervention and commitment, hits, with the newest tax plan, those few sections of the Italian tourist market that actually work.

Wine Editorial: On the role of the Gambero Rosso Wine Forum for the growth of the magazine’s wine section, through the smart critiques and suggestions coming from the forum members

The case: A new concept restaurant, @point, inside the complex of the Saint-Luc hospital in Lyon, run by chef Alex Alexanin and offering a mainly vegetarian menu using organic ingredients with a look at healthy eating.

Special: Salt.

- Italian chefs and their salts: Some of the best chefs in Italy talk about the salt they use in their dishes and the role of salt in both savoury and sweet dishes.

- UK and France: a look at the famous salts of Maldon and the French coasts.

- The history of salt and salt curing through the ages

- The best Italian “saline” (salt producing facilities), unknown to most but finally free to offer their salts to the open market directly, now that the state monopoly on salt has been lifted in Italy: Salina di Cervia in Emilia Romagna, and its, Salina Atisale in Puglia, and the Saline Ettore E Infersa in Marsala, Sicily.

Great Wines: Sangiovese di Romagna. Sangiovese is best known for its Tuscan wines but it originates between Toscana and Romagna. In Romagna a different biotype of the grape has evolved, giving warm, fruity and generous wines. This article looks at the history of Sangiovese di Romagna and tries to make a classification of the seven different terroirs producing this wine (Serra, Faenza-Brisighella, Modigliana-Marzeno, Oriolo dei Fichi-Vecchiazzano, Predappio, Bertinoro and Covignano). Some of the best producers are presented through a brief portrait: Fattorie Zerbina (Faenza), Fattoria San Patrignano (Coriano), Tre Monti (Imola), Leone Conti (Faenza), Stefano Berti (Forli’)Giovanna Madonia (Bertinoro) and Castelluccio (Modigliana).

Donne di vino, Wine’s women: In this issues interviews and porteraits of Graziana Grassini, running one of the best labs dedicated to agrarian analysis in Italy, and Jose’ Rallo of the Sicilian Winery Donnafugata.

Tourism: Alto Salento.

Alto Salento, the part of Puglia between Ostuni and Brindisi, is a growing but still mainly unknown tourist destination. The article looks at the best local products (olive oil, wine, cheese and fish), and the most interesting eating and sleeping offers.

Great Wines: Pommard.

A look at the Pommard denomination with its best crus and producers, plus an interview with Jean-Louise Laplanche, till recently owner of Chateau de Pommard.

Antwerp special.

Andrea Petrini takes a look at Antwerp, and its role as new avant-garde fashion centre in Europe looking for the best eateries there.

Claudio Puglia’s Mangia e Bevi, Laboratorio Culinario, an Italian restaurant serving only traditional dishes made with ingredients selected by Puglia himself, in declared opposition to any gastronomic fashion.

“New Scandinavian Cooking” author Christer Elvfing’s Absoluut Zweeds, which offers fusion-tapas, christened Wappaz by the cook, mixing Spanish, Italian, Japanese and even South American inspirations.

Kaspar Kurdhal’s Hecker, a dinner wine bar with a carte based mainly on simple comfort food, but also offering two special menus: a wine based one, choose the menu and the cook will come up with four dishes to match it, or an off-track menu, with dishes following a molecular gastronomy theme, not surprisingly given Kurdhal’s close contacts to Davide Scabin and his experiences with Adria’

Julien Burlet’s Le Dome is presented as the newest hot spot in town offering a superbly made French cuisine inspired by the classics.

Wine Tasting

- Over 30 Euros: Chianti Classico Castello di Fonterutoli ’01, Barolo Vigan Bricco Gattera ’99 from Monfalletto Cordero di Montezemolo, Marciliano ’00 Falesco, Villa Gresti ’00 Tenuta San Leonardo, Rosso di Sera ’01 Fattoria Poggiopiano, Anghelu Ruju ’97 Tenute Sella e Mosca.

- Between 30 and 8: “high” wines, i.e. bottles from grapes grown at altitudes over 600 meters above sea level.

- Under 8 (Almanacco del Berebene wines): southern Italian wines from Primitivo, Negramaro, Aglianico and Nero di Troia grapes.

Contrappunto

Luciano Di Lillo has a look at one of the best Bordeleis cut wines in Italy, San Leonardo and the youngest wine of the same winery, the Villa Gresti, which, rather than being a second win, turns out to be a great wine from Merlot grapes.

The chef’s recipes

Da Vittorio’s chef Enrico Cerea cooks some of his signature dishes: Raw tuna with fried bread, potato cream with veal cheek, and Vanilla flan with caramelized apple and cinnamon ice cream.

Books

The reviews: Camillo Lagnone’s Maccheronica, “A reactionary guide to Italy’s Restaurant Scene”; Slow Food’s Ludwig a Tavola, the memoirs of Ludwig II of Bavaria’s cook; Maruzza Loira and Sergio Quadruppani’s Alla Tavola di Yasmina, a culinary fairy tale taking place during the XI century in Sicily; Marina Fuentes looks at Salvador Dali’s relationship to food in her book Il Surrealismo in cucina tra il pane e l’uovo; Luca di Francia, a young barman with an astounding career in Italy and abroad, tells of his experiences and his tips for classic and modern cocktails in his book Io e il Bar; Nicoletta Negri’s Fusion da Sempre looks at 50 “fusion” recipes of yore that are now classics in their respective cuisines.

Nutrition

This month, a look at the link between cancer risk and nutrition. The role of diet (fibre consumption, fat origin, food linked with an increased risk) and physical condition (activity level, weight and so on) are discussed on the base of the latest medical informations.

Travel tips:

- Hotel/Restaurant: Hotel Paola-Ristorante 1 Maggio, a pleasant place to spend a few days discovering Carloforte (CA, Sardinia) with its peculiar traditional cuisine laden with Genoese and Tunisian influences.

- B&B: Antica dimora is a the last addition to the B&Bs Lea Gulmanelli runs in Florence, in a ancient city centre building , offering high standard hospitality.

- Shop: da Claudio, a famous fishmonger in Milan, has now become a hot spot for midday break offering among others shellfish, and a great array of raw fish.

- Oil: Antico Frantoio in Sambuca (AG, Sicily) produces an excellent EVOO from the local biancolilla and nocellara del Belice olives

- Oil: Le Contrade SOLEC is a small oil producer from Capaccio (SA, Campania), inside the Colline Salernitane DOP area, bringing together eight young friends with a love for high quality .olive oil

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Gambero Rosso digest: November ’04 issue

The HUGE guides issue.

Editorial: How do the Italian medias speak of chefs? According to Editor Stefano Bonilli they’re mainly used, either instrumental to the Italian food craze or trying to force them into stardom. Most chefs seem very uncomfortable in these roles and the article ends with a few suggestions to them on how to improve their media image.

Wine Editorial: The Italian wine production is in crisis, both economic and of image. While the new world moves compact to win positions on the European market the Italian wine scene does not manage to overcome its inability to communicate in a positive and concrete way.

The case: Fabio Parasecoli takes a look at the Washington DC Restaurants frequently patronized by politicians, their history and what the outcome of the Presidential elections could mean in term of menu changes.

Special: Vini d’Italia 2005, the Slow Food-Gambero Rosso guide to the Wines of Italy.

The Vini d’Italia guide comes to its 18th edition. As usual GR awards, apart the famous Tre Bicchieri, some special prizes for the best wines and wine personalities in the following categories:

Best buy: Alto Adige Terlano Pinot Bianco Vorberg ’01, Cantina di Terlano, a full of character pinot bianco Tre Bicchiere at the unbeatable price of 11 Euros.

Best White: Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Villa Bucci Riserva ’01

Best Red: Brunello di Montalcino Poggio al Vento Riserva ’97

Best dessert wine: Angialis ’01, Argiolas

Best sparkling wine: Trento Giulio Ferrari ’95

Vineyard of the year: Castello d’Ama, winning three Tre Bicchieri this year; Chianti Classico Castello d’Ama ’01, Chianti Classico Bellavista ’99 and Vigna l’Apparita ‘00 .

Best “newcomer”: Pietracupa, producer of some of the most interesting white wines in the Avellino region.

Best oenologist: Giuliano Noe’, the name behind the rebirth of Barbera, started with his work with the late Giacomo Bologna.

Best wine Maker: Elio Altare in GR words “a vineyard and a life teacher “

The complete list of the tre bicchieri is available either on GR’s site (you’ll have to sign up) or on the GR discussion forum (scroll to the second last post).

Wine and Terroir: Italian Grand Crus

Italy has not undergone a systematic classification of its Terroirs like France has. Nonetheless special crus exist and from this issue GR will describe the 100 best ones, starting with the first ten, in Northern and Central Italy, in this issue.

- Piemonte: Bussia. Top wines: Barolo Mandoca di Bussia Soprana (Oddero), Barolo Bussia (Prunotto), and Barolo Gran Bussia Riserva ( Aldo Conterno).

- Piemonte: Cannubi. Top wines: Barolo Cannubi (Marchesi di Barolo), Barolo Cannubi (E. Pira e figli) and Barolo Cannubi Boschis (Sandrone).

- Piemonte: Martinenga. Top wines: Barbaresco Camp Gros Martinenga, Barbaresco Gaiun Martinenga, and Barbaresco Martinenga (all from Tenuta Cisa Asinari, Marchesi di Gresy).

- Trentino: Vigneto Pianizza. Wine: Trento Giulio Ferrari Riserva del Fondatore (Lunelli).

- Alto Adige/Sudtyrol: Kolbenhof. Wine: Alto Adige Gewurztraminer Kolbenhof (Hofstätter).

- Veneto: Monte Lodoletta. Wine: Amraone della Valpolicella Vigneto di Monte Lodoletta (Dal Forno).

- Friuli: Montsclapade. Wine: Colli Orientali del Friuli Montsclapade (Dorigo).

- Toscana: La Selvanella. Wine: Chianti Classico La Selvanella Riserva (Melini).

- Toscana: Poggio al Vento. Wine: Brunello di Montalcino Poggio al Vento Riserva (Tenuta Col d’Orcia).

- Umbria: Vigna Monticchio. Wine: Torgiano Rosso Rubesco Vigna Monticchio Riserva.

Special: Gambero Rosso’s 2005 Ristoranti d’Italia Guide

The awards Gambero Rosso handed out have been discussed in detail on this forum elsewhere. The Special Itself includes a portrait of the new entries.

The new Tre Forchette, each introduced by a short story of the restaurant and interview: Leite in Sappada (BL) (Fabrizia Meroi, chef, and Roberto Brovedani, maitre); Perbellini in Isola Rizza (VR); Arquade dell’Hotel Villa del Quar in San Pietro in Cariano (VR) (Bruno Barbieri, chef); Lorenzo in Forte dei Marmi (LU) ( Gioacchino Pontarelli, chef, and Lorenzo Viani, owner) and Antonello Colonna in Labico (Roma).

Some of the emerging chefs, new entries in the 80-90 points range, are introduced to the GR readers: Alberto Faccani of Magnolia in Cesenatico (FC), Cristiano Tomei of L’Imbuto in Viareggio (LU) and Libera Esposito of Il Melograno in Ischia (NA)

To close the special, the new tre Gamberi trattorie: Locanda del Gambero Rosso in Bagno di Romagna (FC) and Nangallarruni in Castelbuono (PA)

This month’s La cucina dello chef, the chef’s cuisine goes with the Restaurant Guide Special, presenting the recipes the Tre Forchette chefs prepared for the guests of the award ceremony, which took place in Rome in Gambero Rosso’s Citta’ del Gusto.

Menu Gran Sala 1

Moreno Cedroni: “Crudo di Baccala’ salato in casa, papa di pomodoro cipolla, olive nere e maionese senza uovo” (Home salted cod with tomato and onion pappa, black olives and egg-less mayonnaise). La Madonnina del Pescatore, Senigallia.

Gennaro Esposito: “Cannelloni con verdura e pescato di paranza” (Vegetable cannelloni with paranza fish). Torre del Saracino, Vico Equense.

Bruno Barbieri: “Caldofreddo d’anatra al latte di cocco e melone. Cannolo di datteri e frizz di spezie” (coconut milk and melon flavoured duck chaud-froid with date cannolo and spice frizz). Arquade, San Pietro in Cariano.

Giancarlo Perbellini: “Momneto Italiano: anice e caffe’” (Italian Moment: coffee and anise). Perbellini, Isola Rizza.

Menu Gran Sala 2

Cioacchino Pontarelli: “Zuppettina con chiara di pesce e crocchettina di gamberetti” (white fish soup with mini shrimp croquette). Lorenzo Forte dei Marmi.

Antonio Cannavacciuolo: “Risotto ai gamberi di Sicilia, slasa ai limoni di Sorrento” (Sicily shrimp risotto with Sorrento lemon sauce). Villa Crespi, Orta San Giulio.

Gianfranco Vissani: “Filetto di Vitella con flan di rigatoni in umido avvolto di spinaci, pure’ di patate all’arancia” (Braised calf tenderloin wrapped in spinach with rigatoni flan and orange flavoured mashed potatoes). Vissani, Baschi.

Corrado Fasolato: “Sensazioni di Rum, Tabacco, curry e Caffe’” (Sensations of rum, tobacco, curry and coffee). Siriola, Badia Abtei.

Terrace Menu 1

Nadia Santini: “Anguilla marinata in carpione al profumo di agrumi” (In carpione eel with citrus fruit aroma). Dal Pescatore, Canneto sull’Oglio.

Elia Rizzo: “Risotto alla zucca e amarone” (Amarone and pumpkin risotto). Il Desco, Verona.

Heinz Beck: “Agnello in crosta di pane” (Lamb in bread crust). La Pergola, Roma.

Annie Foelde: “Pensiero d’uva” (Grape thought). Enoteca Pinchiorri, Firenze.

Terrace Menu 2

Alfonso Iaccarino: “Naif di astice, mozzarella, pomodoro con raviolo di barbabietola, pesca e bolllicine” (lobster naif, mozzarella, tomato with bettroot raviolo, peach and bubbly). Don Alfonso 1890, Sant’Agata sui due golfi.

Norbert Niederkofler: “Risotto con wasabi e anguilla marinata e affumicata” (Wasabi risotto with marinated and smoked eel). Sant’Uberto, Badia/Abtei.

Romano Tamani: “Guancialino di Maiale stufato con funghidi Borgotaro e polenta di Quisitello” (Pig cheeks braised with Borgotaro mushroom and Quisitello polenta). L’Ambasciata, Quisitello.

Paolo Teverini: “Viva le castagne” (hurray to chestnuts). Paolo Teverini, Bagno di Romagna.

Kitchen Theater menu

Antonello Colonna: “Guanciale di Maialino, farro e mele cotogne” (Suckling pig cheeks, farro and quince). Antonello Colonna, Labico.

Massimiliano Alajmo: “Risotto allo zafferano con polvere di liquerizia” (Saffron risotto with liquorice powder). Le Calandre, Rubano.

Antonello Colonna: “Guanciola di Manzo Brasata” (Braised steer’s cheeks). Antonello Colonna, Labico.

Massimiliano Alajmo: “Sorbetto di pompelmo rosa con insalata di olive condite e aneto, spuma frizzante di limone gin e cannelloni di mandorle e pinoli” (Pink grapefruit sorbet with dressed olives and dill, sparkling foam of lemon gin and almond and pinenut cannolo). Le Calandre, Rubano.

Wine Bar menu

Fabrizia Meroi: “Terrina di foie gras e anguilla affumicata con composta di finocchi e rabarbero” (Foie gras and smoked eel terrine with fennel and rhubarb compote). Leite, Sappada.

Fulvio Pierangelini: “Zuppa di burrata con ravioli di aringa” (Burrata soup wit herring ravioli). Gambero Rosso, San Vincenzo.

Fabrizia Meroi: “Cervo cotto a bassa temperatura con cenere di cipolla” (Low temperature cooked venison with onion ash ). Leite, Sappada.

Fulvio Pierangelini: “Fagottini di fagioli e pepperoni, crema di peperoncino” (Bean and bell pepper turnovers, chilli cream). Gambero Rosso, San Vincenzo.

Indovina chi viene a cena

(guess who's coming for dinner) Italian and French chefs meet. In this episode: Gilles Choukroun, acclaimed as one of the top young cooks with his Parisian Café des Dèlices and L’Angl’Opera, meets Massimo Bottura, indicated, together with Davide Scabin, as one of the only Italian avant-garde chefs, in Bottura’s restaurant Hosteria La Francescana (Modena).

Dieci anni a tutto cibo

(An enquiry on ten years of food as a fashion) Raffaella Prandi takes a look at the effects, both positive and negative, the food-wine mania has had in Italy and possible evolutions through interviews with chefs, journalists and celebrities.

Trends: food and design

This year one of the highlights of the Sia, Salone Internazionale delle attrezzature alberghiere (international showroom of hotel equipment) will be a matching between some of Italy’s best chefs and designers. Each pair will develop a special themed dinner room. The article gives a preview of the event.

Special: Bar d’Italia guide

After a first edition enclosed with the magazine last year, GR’s Bar d’Italia enters the world of Italian food related guides. Each bar in the

The Bar of the year award goes to Converso in Bra (Cuneo).

18 Bars receive top marks, four more than last year with two famous cafès, Caffè Cibreo (Firenze) and Caffè (Perugia). The best Bars in Italy according to GR are:

Baratti e Milano (Torino), Caffè Mulassano (Torino), Stravinskij Bar of the Hotel de Russie (Roma), Balzer (Bergamo), Dandolo of the Hotel Danieli (Venezia), Biasetto (Padova), Caffè Platti (Torino), Caffè Sicilia (Noto, Siracusa), Caffè Torino (Torino), Gren Caffè Cimmino (Napoli), La Bottega di Barbanera (Foligno, Perugia), Caffetteria Piansa (Firenze), Spinnato Antico Caffè (Palermo), Staccoli Caffè (Cattolica, Rimini), Strumia (Sommariva del Bosco, Cuneo), Tuttobene (Campi Bisenzio, Firenze) Zilioli (Brescia).

Patagonia special

Rosario Scarpato takes a look at the nouvelle vague of Argentinian cooking starting off in Patagonia. Through the rediscovery of the Mapuche tradition and forgotten fruit, vegetables and meats a group of young chefs is developing a unique cooking style

Berebene special

As every year, GR publishes an everyday wine guide called Almanacco del bere bene for wines priced up to 8 €. For each region a special oscar award is given as recognition of excellence. The winners of the 2005 edition Oscars:

Valle d’Aosta: Valle d’Aosta Chambave ’03 La Crotta di Vegneron.

Piemonte: Dolcetto D’Alba Roccabella ’03 Terre da Vino.

Liguria: Golfo del Tigullio Bianchetta Genovese U Pastine ’03 Enoteca Bisson.

Lombardia: Oltrepo’ Pavese Barbera Autari ’03 Cantina di Casteggio.

Trentino: Teroldego Rotaliano ’02 Cantina Rotaliana.

Alto Adige: Alto Adige Santa Maddalena Classico ’03 Cant. Prod. Santa Maddalena Cant. di Bolzano.

Veneto: Bianco di Custoza ’03 Cavalchina.

Friuli Venezia Guilia: Friuli Grave Sauvignon Sobaja ’03 Pradio.

Emilia Romagna: Sangiovese di Romagna ’03 Leone Conti.

Toscana: Morrellino di Scansano Roggiano ’03 Cant. Coop. Del Morellino di Scansano.

Marche: Rosso Piceno Superiore Castellano ’01 Cantina dei colli Ripani.

Umbria: Colli del Trasimeno Grechetto Nuricante ’03 Duca della Corgna.

Lazio: Satrico ’03 Casale del Giglio.

Abruzzo: Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Tralcietto ’02 Zaccagnini.

Molise: Sangiovese Terre degli Osci ’03 Di Majo Norante.

Campania: Sannio Falanghina ’03 Feudi di San Gregorio.

Basilicata: Barigliott ’03 Paternoster.

Puglia: Primitivo di Manduria Archidiamo ’03 Pervini.

Calabria: Savuto ’02 Odoardi.

Sicila: Nero d’Avola ’03 Cusumano.

Sardegna: Cannonau di Sardegna Costera ’03 Argiolas.

Contrappunto

Luciano Di Lillo reflects on the ’99 vintage of Brunello di Montalcino wines as a key step to the qualitative maturity of this area..

Books

The reviews: Alberto Calosso and Pietro Gallarino use comics for their take on traditional Pemontese cooking in their Cucina di Tradizione del Piemonte; Allan Bay tries to replicate the success of his first book, with new recipes and cooking tricks and advices, in his Cuochi si Diventa 2 (Feltrinelli); La cucina di Roma Antica (Newton Compton) by Francesco Maria Amato looks at the cooking of ancient Rome; Italian actor Alberto Sordi’s relationship to food is analyzed in Cristina Gimignani Il Marchese e’ Servito (Effequ); Biblitheca Culinarai publishes the Italian translation of Paco Torreblanca’s pastry book;Bepi Pulciarelli’s L’Italia del Cavolo looks at cabbages and their tradition in Italian cooking and closes with 32 cabbage based recipes from top Italian chefs, again from Bibliotheca Culinaria.

Travel tips:

- Restaurant: La Locanda di Bu’ in Nusco (AV). Chef Toni Pisaniello’s restaurant is one of the best example of the new wave of hogh quality restaurants in Campania. For more details I should leave you with the words of our own special reporter from Locanda di Bu’, Ore.

- Hotel: Antica Locanda Leonardo in Milan is a rare find in the local hotel scene made of business clientele oriented places. Leone Frefel’s and Yumi Chiara’s Locanda tries to offer a special familiar atmosphere inspired by the Japanese yado concept executed with Italian style.

- Agriturismo: Foresteria Duca di Dolla (cison di Valmarino, Treviso) is an agriturismo run by the Prosecco producers Bisol. A former monastery situated in a magnificent location, with part of the building used for the appassimento, the drying of the grapes that go in the Duca di Dolle sweet wine.

- Producer: Simone Turus of Mossa (Gorizia) is bringing the local cured meats tradition to new levels with his take on the ancient local recipes with products ranging from Salame Gentile, lardo with eight spices up to cotechino.

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Gambero Rosso digest: January ’05

Editorial: Stefano Bonilli looks at the interest the US academics are devoting to gastronomy, with departments and publications dedicated to the theme, and compares this to the poor situation in Italy and the growing need for an interest of Italian Academia in the subject.

The interest of big multinational wine groups I Italy is the theme of this month’s Wine Editorial from Daniele Cernilli.

News: A preview of the upcoming Gambero Rosso book “Onorevoli a Tavola”, a series of food centered interviews with Italian politicians carried out by Silvia Rossi

Report: “Home cooking on the change.” A look at how the increasing popularity of celebrity TV chefs is changing Italian home cooking, from the home cooks desire to surprise to the disinterest in tradition.

Vertical wine tasting: Tignagnello, Antinori’s Supertuscan, vintages 1971-2001

Wine and Terroir: Italian Grand Crus

In this ongoing series Gambero Rosso presents the best crus of Italy. In this number of the magazine:

• La Crena, Piemonte (Barbera d’Asti la Crena – Vietti)
  
• Vigna Ronda, Piemonte (Barolo Vigna Ronda from Pira, F.lli Oddero and Massolino)
  
• Spessa di Capravia, Friuli VG (home of some of the best Italian Pinot Bianco, like Di Santarosa from Castello di Spessa ans Schiopetto’s Collio Pinot Bianco)
  
• Il Greppo, Toscana (the birthplace of Brunello, Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta “Greppo” form Biondi-Santi)
  
• Nova Serra, Campania (Greco di Tufo Nova Serra, Mastroberardino)
  

Wine tastings

Over 30 Euros: Sweet wines

Between 30 and 8 Euros: the best smart buys from Trentino with a special eye on Teroldego wines

Under 8 Euros: A selection from Veneto

Contrappunto. Lucian di Lillo discusses about the different styles of Brunello di Montalcino looking at the 99 vintage wines.

Cover story: “Album di Famiglia”, a behind the curtains look at the Trattorie dinner Gambero Rosso has organized last November in occasion to the awarding of the tre gamberi prizes to the best trattorie in Italy (the winners here). The awarded chefs discuss on their perspective of Italian cuisine and share the recipes prepared for the dinner.

Travel tips:

Restaurant: Ophelia, Catanzaro a new stimulating address in the city’s sleepy culinary scene.

Pastry shop: Rinaldini in Rimini is the shop of Giovanni Rinaldini winner of the Junior World Pastry Competition in 1998 in Barcellona and youngest Master Pastry Chef of the Italian Master Pastry Chef Association.

Gambero Rosso digest: February ’05

Editorial: Italy tourism and gastronomy crisis, Editor Stefano Bonilli argues, could be the occasion to finally change attitude and invest in the education and promotion of the Italian tourist sector.

Wine Editorial: Daniele Cernill asks if Italy can really compete on the international markets as wine producing country. Although Italy produces amounts similar to the French ones, only 40% of Italian wine is bottled. To compete with New World wines Italy has to start working on its “commodity-wines”.

News: Preview of the movie “Mondovino”, to be released in spring in Italy.

Cover Story: Has Spanish cuisine already won? Gambero Rosso interviews some of the Italian chefs who travelled to Lo Mejor de la Gastronomia in San Sebastian and tries to reveal what they think of modern Spanish cuisine, its strength and weaknesses, how cuisine is evolving, the central role or less of ingredients, and the Spanish chefs as professional examples.

Vertical wine tasting: Montevetrano, the cult wine from Campania, vintages ’91-’02.

Gastronomic travels: Valtellina and its gastronomic treasures: the salumi, Bresaola and Violino, cheeses, Bitto, Casera and Scimudin, and the local buckwheat.

Wine tastings

Over 30 Euros: Structured reds from autochthonous grapes

Between 30 and 8 Euros: the best reds from Puglia

Under 8 Euros: A selection of the best Chianti in this price range

Contrappunto Luciano di Lillo compares the best Soave wines aged in steel tanks and in casks.

Books. Among the newly published books reviewd: “Atlante dei prodotti tipici – Pasta”, the last volume of the typical products atlases from INSOR; “Mangiare di Festa”, a look at Sicilian food traditions connected with festive occasion written by G.Basile and A.M. Musco; Barbara Bertuzzi’s traditional recipe collection “Cucinare alla Bolognese”.

Food and nutrition: Cristina Barbagli discusses the health advantages of cocoa and chocolate, the myths, the prejudices and the actual scientific knowledge on the theme.

Travel tips:

Hotel: Relais Todini a beautiful relais in the Umbrian countryside next to Todi.

Restaurant: A.B.+, in Turin, is a brave new project including a restaurant, headed by chef Alessandro Buglione, an exposition space, conference rooms and a club born around the idea of modern design meeting the ancient building hosting this space.