Pera

[Sneakeater]

Pera is a new upscale Turkish restaurant -- it is denominated a "Medditeranean brasserie", a combination of buzzwords that in the context of this restaurant is virtually meaningless -- that newly opened on Madison Avenue between 41st and 42nd. It's worth popping into, if not travelling to.

Pera lacks the madcap edge of the Turkish restaurants run by Orhan Yegen, New York's mad prince of Turkish cuisine. So on the one hand, the place doesn't seem as if it's about to careen out of control; but on the other, you never get the feeling you might be about to taste anything startlingly good, either. What you get instead is a very consistently high level of accomplishment.

You can also get a startlingly good value. That's the tasting menu (called, I think, the "Pera Tradition Menu") where, for $46 a person, you get a fairly big selection of mezze, a delicious topped flatbread, and a whole host of grilled meats. (I think this may be an especially good deal for solo diners, because I got the feeling they haven't figured out how to portion the tasting menu for one, and so pretty much gave me what they'd normally give two people. Of course, to appreciate this bargain, you have to be someone -- like me -- who will pretty much consume any amount of food that is put in front of him.)

When you eat the cunningly seasoned, and beautifully prepared, hummus at the start, you begin to see that this is going to be Turkish at a level of preparation you don't ordinarily see. The various brochettes nail it. The meat is perfectly tender: not at all chewy. Well butchered: no gristle. Cooked -- and spiced -- to a turn. No blatant seasonings, just enough to bring out what's best in the meat. Served with superlative housemade bread. In other words, just what you want this food to be like.

I can't speak for the rest of the menu, but what the "Tradition" menu isn't, is haute Turkish. This isn't a place that's showing you new aspects of Turkish cuisine that you've never imagined before. (That's more Orhan Yegen's thing.) Rather, this (again, at least on the "Tradition" menu) is a place that's doing the old standbies better than you've probably ever had them.

Well worth a try.

PS -- I'm always ready to support a place that has Mussar by the glass.

Edited February 26, 2007 by Sneakeater (log)

[Pan]

Which restaurants does Orhan Yegen run?

[Sneakeater]

He always leaves after a few months, so I don't know if he's ANYWHERE at present.

The last one I knew he was at was Sip Sak, in the high 40s on (I think) Second Ave. Orhan Yegan was there as of last year.

Before that was a place on 81st or so and (I think) Second (or maybe Third). It was called something like Begalyu. That place is still in operation, but without Orhan Yegen. There may have been another one in between. There were certainly a few before.

[Nathan]

I think you mean Beyoglu (I confused it with Pasha on this board awhile back).

Did he ever have anything to do with Turkish kitchen?

[Sneakeater]

1. Yes!

2. No (AFAIK).

[weinoo]

There was also a seafood place on 57th - denis or something like that. Great chef, crazy man...he once told me that he could find 7 things wrong with any hummus I could make and bring to him to taste.

Pera sounds great, though!

Edited February 26, 2007 by weinoo (log)

[Sneakeater]

Right right. Denis. That was the first one I knew him at.

Edited February 26, 2007 by Sneakeater (log)

[Eatmywords]

Don't forget the short lived Divane on 8th and 52nd (now Cosmic diner). That's were I met Mr. Yegen. Super nice and engaging if a bit wacky. Like a mad-scientist Yanni.

I wonder what kind of deals he orchestrates to get in and out of these places apparently unscathed.