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TN: Compilation


Florida Jim

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A recent accumulation of notes and impressions:

2005 Chignard, Fleurie:

Light weight, authentic Fleurie with precision, finesse, some beautiful high notes and excellent balance; in other words, charming. A bit tight but a little time in the decanter (or a couple years in the cellar) will make a big difference. Delightful with turkey meat balls en brodo. About $21 and well worth it.

2001 Dom. Leon Barral, Faugères Jadis:

Packed with flavor, complexity and meaty goodness but still polished and very well balanced. My first experience with this AOC and it’ll not be my last. It’s mostly carignan and syrah and built for aging yet still delicious now. Imported by Kermit Lynch, about $25 and I bought several.

2001 Edmunds St. John, Rocks and Gravel:

A GSM blend from the Rozet vineyard in Paso, it’s hard not to compare it to the ’01 Los Robles Viejos from the same dirt; and I find them similar. Which means they are cut from CdP cloth but tailored to the central coast; really easy to drink now but has the structure and balance to go awhile. Bought on close-out for $5 (imagine how fast I got my shopping cart) and worth many times that price.

1991 Lolonis, Petite Sirah Orpheus:

(A short pour at a tasting) Very much alive and still well structured; needs five or ten more years to resolve but carries good flavors and some complexity in a balanced, non-oaky package. Price on release unknown.

2004 Anselmi, Capitel Foscarino:

Crystalline; fresh, lively, good depth, great cut, and striking details; just a joy to drink. Enjoyed with tomato and mozzarella salad one time and with veggie burgers another – excellent with both. Imported by Palm Bay Imports, about $17 and I bought a case.

2002 Baumard, Savennieres:

What hasn’t been said; lovely, stony stuff that may not be the most complex chenin but it certainly is authentic to its place and delicious to drink. About $20 and I’d buy it again at that price.

2002 V. Dauvissat, Chablis:

A simple village wine that is not simple; utterly Chablis on the nose; rich, spicy and nuanced in the mouth with great acidity that carries the ripe flavors into a long, layered finish. Superb. About $25 and worth every nickel.

1995 Snowden, Cabernet Sauvignon:

Beneath too much wood lies a smooth, complex wine with great berry fruit and lots of class. But I could not get past the oak so I don’t much care what else is there. About $45 on release and I’d not buy it again.

2004 Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba:

Another bottle I can’t seem to keep my hands off and every bit as good as the last; pretty, dusty aromatics; solid nebbiolo flavors without much depth but well delineated and good sustain. This wine goes with almost anything, is a pleasure to drink with or without food and will certainly last at least medium term in the cellar. Imported by Locasio/Winebow, about $25 and a no brainer for me.

2005 Vissoux, Beaujolais Cuvée Traditionalle:

Bright, tangy and pretty but still closed. Decant or wait until next year. About $14 and I’d buy it again at that price.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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