Gruaud, Tyrells, Torres and Taylors

[bills]

Monthly lunch notes:

1993 Dom. Closel Savennierres Cuvee Special – yes, I brought a white wine! These Chenin Blanc wines are little known and under appreciated.. They start life with almost searing acidity and it takes around 6-7 years for this to abate and for the wine to start drinking really well. This wine showed a fair bit of colour and a slightly Maderised nose that just kept opening up and adding layers of different fruit. It perplexed several people who rightly stated that if it were a chardonnay, fotr instance, it was showing all the signs of being over the hill.I got wax in the nose as well as peaches, and it was all apple on the palate with excellent balance. That’s what makes these wines worth cellaring. Don’t tell anyone or the prices will rise.

1998 Tyrells Vat 47 Chardonnay – a nice toasty nose on this one, but none of the over exuberant use of oak that would lead you immediately to an Australian chard. Full and smooth in the mouth and crisp at the end. They do make this style in Oz – the pity is that most of the export chard that comes to North America is in the “have to be a woodchuck to get through all that timber” mould.

2004 Sogrape Douro Reserva Blanco – made by an excellent co-op, from indeterminate grapes, this one wasn’t showing much yet in the nose. It was fresh, clean and young with a fair bit of acidity at the end and some interesting notes in between. I think it needs some time to develop.

2000 Au Bon Climat Bien Nacido Pinot Noir (Santa Maria) – no problem picking this out as a Pinot and also fairly easy to say it was American based on the primary fruit nose. It showed medium colour, and was clean and pleasant on palate, perhaps slightly simple, but no less enjoyable for that.

1981 Gruaud Larose – instant recognition of Bordeaux followed by much fumbling around as to vintage as 1981 isn’t exactly at the tip of anyone’s tongue. Finally got there. Showing an very nice cabernet nose with some spice and a hint of dustiness. Very harmonious wine still with some tannin (which kept bugging me when I was thinking 1985 – not quite the right balance for that with too much tannin and not enough sweet fruit….) Well constructed, nice fruit level and pleasant to drink.

1995 Torres Mas La Plana – this is the new name for Gran Coronas Black Label of old – they took the Ull de Lebre (Tempranillo) out in the early 80s and later changed the name and went through a period where it wasn’t nearly as interesting as it had been. It would seem that it is back! This wine showed excellent levels of solid fruit in the nose, some tannin, but soft, and good length. Quite enjoyable now.

2000 La Piaggia Carmignano Riserva – this one really fooled us – purpley dark wine with a sweet fruit nose, sheets down the glass, can’t see through it – your first inclination isn’t Italy. Very interesting in a new age sort of way. Tannins are soft but I think this one will continue to improve awhile yet.

2000 Kir-Yanni Ramnista – or at least I think that’s what it said but then I don’t read Greek very well. I can now add another grape to my life list – Ximomavro. Sweet minty nose (to go with all that lamb…?) that added aspects of dill, roses and tar with time. Medium colour, almost indicating age, but it was young in the mouth and had a slight astringency at the end.

2000 Fontodi Flaccianello – this 100% sangiovese IGT was fairly dark with some Brettiness in the nose, and light tar. It has significant tannins and was slightly hot. Could use more time.

1974 Taylors Late Bottled Vintage Port – ever wondered what happens to an LBV that you leave in the cellar for years? It finally throws a fair bit of sediment and assumes a lighter colour party way between vintage Port and Tawny. This garnet coloured wien was elegant and silky on the palate, a bit hot in the mouth and no longer as sweet as I remember it being on realease. Quite a nice end to a lunch.