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Michael Ruhlman

Celebration of the Pig: Battuto (Cleveland)

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I don’t know where to put this on egullet, but it’s too exciting not to mention prominently for any egulleter pork lovers in cleveland. Mark and Giovanna Daverio, owners of Battuto in Little Italy, are having a special evening devoted to the pig next wednesday at seven. but not just any pig.

about two hours south of cleveland, an amish farmer named daniel stutzman has been raising some amazing hogs. when brian polcyn and i bought some two years ago we were astonished by the quality and abundance of its fat, its size (the belly was an astonishing and gorgeous four inches thick). daniel is raising hogs as they're meant to be raised; they feed on acorns and onions and apples. they have bedding indoors and and are free to roam if they wish. they are humanely raised. the result is pork of astonishing quality.

Mark Daverio, an alum of pork guro Paul Bertolli at Olivetto in Oakland, will be featuring an evening of this pork and i will be working with him to write the menu. pork belly confit? you bet. trotters? oh, yeah babe. maybe a couple of pigs head preps. and of course some traditional cuts from the loin and tenderloin to show how amazing pig can be.

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Wow!! Michael, can you please post the menu asap? Also, what breed of hogs are these? Having just read Pig Perfect by Peter Kaminsky, I am very tuned into this right now. I wish I could make it to Cleveland. Will you please post a report after the event?

=R=


"Hey, hey, careful man! There's a beverage here!" --The Dude, The Big Lebowski

LTHForum.com -- The definitive Chicago-based culinary chat site

ronnie_suburban 'at' yahoo.com

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daniel is amish and doesn't have a phone, so you have to go through a friend of his, james falb. i'll try and find his number. there are a lot of difficulties working wth amish farmers because of things like phones and cars which makes the meat a little less accessible.

i believe the hogs are duroc. i was just with peter actually and he was very eager to taste duroc (which is a hearty fatty pig likethe iberico) that's fed on acorns.

will try to take pix of the pork.

clevelanders can buy this pork at the farmers market on shaker square saturday morning, or order it from james who is usually there.

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I wish I could make it to Cleveland. 

=R=

I'm with you, boss. But those are words I honestly never expected to utter, I have to say :laugh:

Edited to make sense :wacko:


Edited by moosnsqrl (log)

Judy Jones aka "moosnsqrl"

Sharing food with another human being is an intimate act that should not be indulged in lightly.

M.F.K. Fisher

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... pork belly confit?  you bet.  trotters?  oh, yeah babe.  maybe a couple of pigs head preps.  and of course some traditional cuts from the loin and tenderloin to show how amazing pig can be.

My gosh... no need to show me, just feed me!

... one of my college roommates is in Cleveland.... :hmmm:


“Watermelon - it’s a good fruit. You eat, you drink, you wash your face.”

Italian tenor Enrico Caruso (1873-1921)

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I didn't know that Mark Daverio cooked with Paul Bertolli. I've always wished that we in Cleveland could have something like the "Whole Hog" dinners of Oliveto. Sounds like we're finally getting closer to it *, and I'll be out of town. :sad:

Here's to hoping that this will become a regular event....

I know that Parker Bosley did some Heritage Pork "theme" dinners, but I don't know if they were as comprehensive as this sounds. The Oliveto dinners included cured products, so the Wednesday event at Battuto isn't quite the same thing. Still, it sounds wonderful.

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i've described the menu on my blog, fyi, and there's two pix of the bellies and the fat.  these hogs are amazing creatures.blog.ruhlman.com

Thanks, Michael, for the link. Those pics are amazing. Tonight should be quite the experience. I look forward to reading all about and only wish I could participate.

Enjoy!

=R=


"Hey, hey, careful man! There's a beverage here!" --The Dude, The Big Lebowski

LTHForum.com -- The definitive Chicago-based culinary chat site

ronnie_suburban 'at' yahoo.com

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Michael, the menu looks awesome. Excellent blog. Will the trotters come out crispy?


John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

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Here in North Carolina, I had a great whole hog dinner last week featuring a pig that was a cross between an Ossabaw and a Gloucestershire Old Spot. The details of the hog can be found here and a brief overview of the dinner can be found here.

It's great to see so many places making a commitment to bringing back tasty, sustainable pork.


Dean McCord

VarmintBites

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What a wonderful time was had by all! The food and the wine pairings were superb and our hosts were warm and gracious.

First - the Menu:

gallery_21337_3895_123258.jpg

First Course:

gallery_21337_3895_1144067.jpg

Second Course:

I found the flavor of the roulade a little too "porky" for my taste - until I ate the three components on the plate together - they made for perfect culinary harmony.

gallery_21337_3895_996944.jpg

Third Course:

The item on the right was a strip of pork rind that was out of this world.

gallery_21337_3895_165812.jpg

Fourth Course:

gallery_21337_3895_57875.jpg

Fifth Course:

What can you say about a plate full of pork - I can't believe I ate the whole thing!

gallery_21337_3895_1359328.jpg

Dessert:

This dessert explains why so many bakers are passionate about using lard in their crusts - a completely different "crunch" than you get from from Crisco (and richer flavor, too).

gallery_21337_3895_403324.jpg


Edited by NancyH (log)

"Life is Too Short to Not Play With Your Food" (coined while playing with my food at Lolita).

My blog: Fun Playing With Food

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That looks like a satisfying and delicious meal! What happened to the sausages, though?


John Sconzo, M.D. aka "docsconz"

"Remember that a very good sardine is always preferable to a not that good lobster."

- Ferran Adria on eGullet 12/16/2004.

Docsconz - Musings on Food and Life

Slow Food Saratoga Region - Co-Founder

Twitter - @docsconz

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That looks like a satisfying and delicious meal! What happened to the sausages, though?

Oops! You're right! Here they are:

gallery_21337_3895_57875.jpg

And they were amazing - especially the sundried tomato-olive ones on the right.


"Life is Too Short to Not Play With Your Food" (coined while playing with my food at Lolita).

My blog: Fun Playing With Food

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Below are my comments in response to a question about the evening from a fellow poster at Cleveland.com. I want to share them here too!

Porkapaloozaa made for a very special evening.

Michael Rhulman started out the dinner with a brief talk about the specific pig from which we would partake. He also spoke about the importance of insisting on humanely raised food and of knowing the source of one's food. It was a pleasure to here him speak. He seems deeply interested in effecting change in how and what we eat and he is able to talk about issues relating to that in a manner that is both thoughtful and conciliatory. He could be an iimportant part in the food movement in Cleveland to eat better and more local food. Cleveland is fortunate to have him here and I hope to see him become more involved in the food life of Cleveland.

The pork dishes were simply amazing. Each course was well thought out and executed. From the starter of perfect salumis to the finish of an apple galette, each course was nothing short of stunning. I was very partial to the sweet Italian sausage that I believe had been made by the house. Each course was about the pork. No dish was overshadowed by seasonings or preparations rather the pork shined through in its own different way for each course.

Finally, as much of the star of the evening was the pork, so to was the restaurant that hosted the event. Pchak, I know you and Sheb have mentioned this place before but Steve and I had never made it there for a meal. They were the second star of the show last night. From the executions of the kitchen to the superlative service Battuto really shined. I looked at their regular menu and though 'my gosh, this is one of the best menus in Cleveland". I can't wait to get back there soon for dinner.

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Thanks for the reports and the pictures. What an awesome meal that must have been. That little chunk of belly in the 3rd course looks so delectable, I can't stop thinking about it. Wow!!

=R=


"Hey, hey, careful man! There's a beverage here!" --The Dude, The Big Lebowski

LTHForum.com -- The definitive Chicago-based culinary chat site

ronnie_suburban 'at' yahoo.com

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Also, is there a link to more information about the event itself?  If so, can you please post it here?

Thanks!

=R=

I don't post often here on Egullet, but I have James Falb's number if anyone is really interested. just call or email me. 440-622-5071 brian@worldsfareculinary.com. I am getting the same breed next week for making various items this winter.

Cheeers,

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Also, is there a link to more information about the event itself?  If so, can you please post it here?

Thanks!

=R=

I don't post often here on Egullet, but I have James Falb's number if anyone is really interested. just call or email me. 440-622-5071 brian@worldsfareculinary.com. I am getting the same breed next week for making various items this winter.

Cheeers,

Thank you :smile:

=R=


"Hey, hey, careful man! There's a beverage here!" --The Dude, The Big Lebowski

LTHForum.com -- The definitive Chicago-based culinary chat site

ronnie_suburban 'at' yahoo.com

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I forgot to mention that the apples on the dessert were amazing in their own right. Does anyone know what kind they were and where they were from?


"Life is Too Short to Not Play With Your Food" (coined while playing with my food at Lolita).

My blog: Fun Playing With Food

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Great pictures Nancy! Thanks for letting me re-live the dinner.

It was a lovely meal, with very good company.

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wowwwweee! Great pictures as usual, Nancy, and great description of the evening LuckyGirl, much appreciated. Sounds and looks fantastic.

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