C.I.A.

[Florida Jim]

California, Italy, Austria:

1995 Snowden, Cabernet Sauvignon:

14.5% alcohol shows in volume but not with heat; black, big-assed CA wine with huge fruit aromas and flavors in the blackberry/blueberry/black currant register, big tannins, moderate oak, dense but disjointed, good acids; a raw, young wine that needs another ten years in the cellar. Not for me but has promise for those who enjoy this style. ‘Needs powerfully flavored food. $45 on release; I’d not buy it again.

2001 Giacosa, Nebbiolo d’Alba:

Singing! Redolent nose of dried roses, cherries, light tar and mineral accents; expansive on the palate with flavors that echo the nose but do it in layers of complexity and ripe fruit; intense, moderately concentrated, good grip, clean and has good length (slightly drying). No, it isn’t Barbaresco but it certainly is a superb rendition of nebbiolo and its ready now (although I’m sure it will last). About $20; I’d buy many cases at that price. (So much better now than bottles tried last year; and those were very good, indeed.)

2001 Hirtzberger, Riesling Singerriedel:

Solid, concentrated riesling with little to distinguish it. I assume this is closed down; if not, this doesn’t measure up to the maker and dirt from which it comes. Tasted over 24 hours. About $47 wholesale; I’d not buy it again at that price. (The second time I have tasted this in the last 6 months and it’s was similarly unimpressive on both occasions.)

Best, Jim