Chamarel, Chamarre, Chamarre-Montmartre

[cabrales]

I'd appreciate input from members who have sampled the new restaurant Chamarel at 13 boulevard de La Tour-Maubourg (7th), 01-47-05-50-18. Below are excerpts from a Nouvel Observateur article, *very* roughly translated by me:

"One has to take advantage of a piece of news of gastronomic significance, because Jerome Bodereau is a chef of whom we will talk. Formed classically with a rare finesse, he seeks to find, not to bluff. He surprises, knowing where he would like to go, with superb audacity. He imbues plates with calculated pairings of ingredients. He successfully aligned French technique with elements of Mauritius, the homeland of Antoine Herrah, his associate in the dining room.

The complexity of the pate of young rabit suggests its deliciousness: smoked filet, shoulders and thighs confit, foie gras, and a lining of aubergines. The filet of [marlin] -- rare -- is presented with vegetabes with an oil of curry, garlic and shallots -- challenging as well as seductive. Echoing with that dish are roasted asparagus with their own veloute. A trio of filets of mackeral -- escabeche style, pan roasted and lacquered. . . . Chicken with curry leaves under the skin, cooked in a bouillon of [betal leaves??] is bizarre, but addictive. The pig dish, including head and feet in a galette, has three chutneys (onion, beetroot, tomato). . . ."

Lunches are described as beginning at 30 euros; menu carte at 45 euros.

http://www.parisobs.com/articles/p72/a15519.htm

[cabrales]

Chamarel at 13 boulevard de La Tour-Maubourg (7th), 01-47-05-50-18.

Chamaree (the restaurant name has since been changed) is the subject of a recent Gilles Pudlowski "Restaurant of the Month" article in French Saveurs. A very rough translation follows:

The Island of Mauritius Winks at Paris

An old restaurant has been taken up by a winning trio and transformed into an appealing place where the cuisine navigates between France and the island of Mauritius.

Antoine Herrah and Chantal Dias, associated with a former sous-chef of Alain Passard, Jerome Bodereau, have created one of the [culinary] events of the yaer in retaking the former "Boule d'Or". The metamorphosis is complete. The old restaurant, which used to e a bit cold, has been redecorated in the colors of volcanic earth of Chamarel on the island of Mauritius. On the walls, there are appliques similar to the origami style; in the room, honey-colored banquettes and leather seats in a chocolate color set the tone. The service is discrete, civil and disciplined. Everything has a sobre chic aspect to it.

But the nice surprise is definitely on the plate, with Franco-exotic flavors that are frank and light, with highly capable technique. A presse of rabit with foie gras and aubergine, marlin with crunchy vegetables, snails with a mousseline of spinach and caper butter, sea bream with an etuvee of onions and mango -- everything, like the side of lamb with a fine emulsion containing garlic skin -- is a significant success. The same applies to the vegetables, which are seasoned with ginger and a trace of lemon, after having been quickly sauteed in butter.

The desserts, like a savarin laced with rum or a gelee of exotic fruits, are all appealing. This is a table that will write on a clean slate!

My visit suggested a less tasty cuisine than Pudlowski describes, but our relative assessments are not unusual, I have noted, for a number of Parisian restaurants.

[cabrales]

Below is another write-up in French on Chamaree (formerly Chamarel):

http://www.restoland.com/fiche.php?local=P...C%7C%7C%7C1%7C0

I have translated, very roughly, relevant excerpts:

Price of menu or the a la carte: from 45 euros

Closed: Saturday lunch, Sunday all day.

Comments:

The restaurant of Antoine Heerah, a native of the island of Mauritius, and Jerome Bodereau, a young chef formed at Ledoyen and a former sous-chef of Passard, attract all gourmets. The cuisine is traditionally inspired, but revolves around flavors of the world and spices from Mauritius.

Serves from 12:00-14:00 and from 19:30-22:30 (this might be a possibility for robert brown)

Tasting menu (for all diners) at 70 euros.

Chefs' choice menu with sampling of wines by the glass at 90 euros.

Decor is in reds, ocres and browns. The seats are covered with velour, and light woods furnish a comfortable and elegant ambiance to the two rooms.

Reservations recommended.

[cabrales]

This restaurant is receiving some press. In the November 2002 edition of Travel + Leisure, the Paris description by Christopher Petkanas notes: "The most exciting and original new table in the French capital is the Franco-Mauritian Le Chamaree (... dinner for two $88). Some of Chef Jerome Baudereau's [spelling] dishes demand a leap of faith -- they marry ingredients like chicken and betel juice-- but he's a brave and important talent." The other restaurants listed are Hiramatsu, Aux Lyonnais (now with a new concept and co-supervised by Ducasse's team), and L'Envue ("the chic new canteen for shoppers pounding the fashionable Faubourg St.-Honore").

[cabrales]

The November 2002/January 2003 edition of Elle a Table reports on Chamree (very rough translations provided by me):

Do not hope that you will rediscover the decor of your last vacation on the island of Mauritius. Here, the seriousness is on the plate. In the kitchen, Jerome Bordereau, who used to work with Alain Passard. In the dining room, Antoine Heerah, who is from Mauritius and who is a cuisinier who used to be with... Alain Passard. On the menu, a good, developed marriage between Franco-Mauritian flavors. Pigeon is served roasted with four spices, accompanied by rutabagas; red mullet is accompanied by onions and various Creole condiment; quince is caramelized and is placed on a surprising bed of "Sable" with Mauritian flavors and accompanied by a combawa (a lemon taste with connotations of lemongrass) ice cream; the savarin is served laced with rum and with a rice. The wine list offers a good selection that goes well with the cuisine.

Menu (apps, entree, dessert, entremet and pre-dessert) 45 euros; Discovery menu (7 dishes) at 80 euros without wine.

[Pan]

I used to eat at a Mauritian restaurant in Nice in the summer of 1992. It was more expensive and fancier than my typical dinner, so it was a good date restaurant, and the food was wonderful - a unique type of tasty, Indian-influenced cuisine that used a lot of coconut milk, citrus, and spices! Imagine my disappointment when I came back the following summer to find that it had been replaced by a pizza place!