Briefs

[Florida Jim]

N/V Gloria Ferrer, Blanc de Noir:

Perfectly acceptable, well flavored, lively bubbly. Most enjoyable.

2004 Quinto de Ameal, Vinho Verde:

Nothing like the vinho verde I’m used to; no spritz, smoothly textured, some depth of flavor and nicely balanced; even has a finish. Very nice.

2003 Bonny Doon, Malvasia Bianca:

Smells like gum and tastes sort of like it, too – but in a good way (if that’s possible). Idiosyncratic stuff and not something I’d buy but not a bad wine.

2003 Chat. St. Julian, Chardonnay:

Overwhelmed by oak. Bad wine; astringent; bad wine.

2001 Bonny Doon, Le Cigare Volante:

34% grenache, 33% syrah, 27% mourvedre, 2% viognier, 2% cinsault, 2% carignane; pleasant, Rhonish stuff with little to distinguish it. Eh.

2003 La Legua:

Mostly Tempranillo and mostly good. Not bad, okay. Tolerable, plus.

2002 Barkan, Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve:

From Israel; this is oaky but not overwhelmingly so and pretty well balanced; not my style but pretty decent for its style. Sold like hot cakes at this tasting.

2003 L. Latour, Volnay:

Pinot noir that is from anywhere and completely resolved; not bad but without character or reason to have a second glass.

2003 Bonello, Merlot/Nero d’Avola:

If you’re keeping score, 51%/49%, respectively. Pretty ugly wine and not worth a second taste.

2005 Terres Dorées, Beaujolais Nouveau:

There is an exception to most rules and this is it; wonderful, essence of black fruit, fresh, juicy, glorious and I’m-so-glad-to-be-alive-and-drinking-this-juice. And it’s on sale at Astor in NYC for $7. The ultimate no-brainer.

Best, Jim