TN: Drinkers' dozen

[carswell]

Notes from a recent "new arrivals" tasting of mostly affordable wines currently on sale at the SAQ (the 2002 Juliénas has, alas, sold out). Prices are in Canadian dollars (C$1 = US$0.85 or thereabouts these days) and include 15% sales tax. Since points are de rigueur for a reviewer to be taken seriously, I've abandoned resistance and here introduce my rating system, with all wines being scored on a scale from 0 to 1.

Flight 1

Sauvignon Blanc 2005, Marlborough, Kim Crawford ($17.15) 13% alc.

Textbook New Zealand sauvignon blanc. Explosive nose of passion fruit, melon, jalapeno and a squirt of cat pee. Zesty upfront fruit, zingy acidity and a limesicle finish. Fresca for adults? Sure but so what? 1

Sauvignon Blanc 2004, Marlborough, Jackson Estate ($20.00) 13% alc.

Grassier and greener, the fruit tending to kiwi and gooseberry. Crisp, minerally, refreshing. 1

Fumé Blanc 2003, Dry Creek Valley, Lake Sonoma Winery ($22.35) 13.5% alc.

Initial volatile acidity. Reticent nose, more minerals than fruit. Totally dry, mouthfilling, sharp and grapefruity with a chalky finish. Turned watery and hot as it breathed and warmed. 0

Menetou-Salon 2004, Morogues, Domaine Henry Pellé ($23.00) 12.5% alc.

Delicate nose: white flowers, citrus, hint of chile. Dry, light but flavourful, a tracery of grapefruit and minerals, a taut balance of fruit and acidity, a lingering sourness that draws you back for another sip. 1

Even served double blind, the two Marlborough wines formed an obvious pair. To my surprise, the Fumé Blanc was stylistically closer to the Loire than New Zealand. The Kim Crawford was the crowd pleaser. Pure and elegant, the Menetou-Salon was in a class by itself; just thinking about it sets my mouth watering.

Flight 2

Touraine 2004, Domaine de La Charmoise ($16.95) 11.5% alc.

The bottle at the tasting was mildly corked; this note is based on another bottle purchased the next day. Tart, supple and refreshing, a puckery gush of red berries and slate. Nothing profound, just pure, unadulterated fun. Serve chilled. 1

Beaujolais-villages 2004, Combe aux Jacques, Louis Jadot ($17.60) 12.5% alc.

Pale red, by far the lightest coloured of the flight. Peony, poppy seed, hint of humus. Minerally finish. Honest but one-dimensional, a wallflower. 0

Juliénas 2002, Domaine du Clos du Fief, Michel Tête ($20.95)

Strawberry and black raspberry, irises and stones. Rich, juicy and layered with a long tartish finish. Fabulous wine with years of life ahead of it. 1

Juliénas 2003, Domaine du Clos du Fief, Michel Tête ($22.85) 13% alc.

Darker and less brilliant than the 2002. Bit of funk on the nose but mainly boiled red fruit candy. Dense but flat with jammy/stewed fruit and a slightly burned-tasting finish. 0

The Charmoise, the very model of what the French call a vin plaisir, will make an ideal summer sipper. The Jadot was a disappointment, especially for those who had tasted the house’s knockout 2002 Château des Jacques. As hoped, the two Juliénas illustrated the difference between the vintages and the deleterious effects of 2003’s heat and drought. While Tête’s is the best of the ten or so 2003 Beaujolais I’ve tasted, it couldn’t hold a candle to the 2002. A few tasters preferred the 2003, however.

Flight 3

Primitivo di Manduria 2001, Terrarossa Pichierri, Vinicola Savese ($22.95) 14% alc.

Overpowering nose: dried herbs and rosehips, sawed wood, sweaty horse, humidor. Round, fluid, tasting of plum, burnt rubber and herbs. Not remarkably structured or long. 0

Lytton Springs Vineyard 2002, Ridge ($51) 14.4% alc.

75% zinfandel, 20% petite sirah, 5% carignan. Rich, mellow, broad, layered and long, with great texture and presence. Oak held in check. A bit tight; decant if drinking now or wait four or five years. Classy wine. 1

The Holy Trinity 2001, Barossa, Grant Burge Wines ($30.50) 14.3% alc.

39% grenache, 35% shiraz, 26% mourvedre. Rich fruit tending to plum with some cocoa creeping in. Medium weight with a fluid texture and slightly cloying sweetness. Smooth, easy to drink if a bit simple. 1

Minervois 2003, Le Régal du Loup, Domaine du Loup Blanc ($21.55) 13.5% alc.

The flagship of a winery owned by the owners of Montreal bistro Continental. 76% carignan, 12% grenache, 12% cinsault. Strange nose of dark fruit, flowers and liverwurst. Disjointed and rough on the palate. 0

No one tasting the primitivo would have guessed its zinfandel connection. The Minervois had got rave reviews from some members of the local wine media; either our bottle was off or the media are ethically challenged. The Holy Trinity was a surprise, both lighter and better balanced than I was expecting; it would be interesting to taste a bottle in seven or eight years. The Lytton Springs was irresistible, more subdued than many recent vintages and no worse for it; too bad about the price.

Edited January 16, 2006 by carswell (log)

[thomasein]

Notes from a recent "new arrivals" tasting of mostly affordable wines currently on sale at the SAQ (the 2002 Juliénas has, alas, sold out). Prices are in Canadian dollars (C$1 = US$0.85 or thereabouts these days) and include 15% sales tax. Since points are de rigueur for a reviewer to be taken seriously, I've abandoned resistance and here introduce my rating system, with all wines being scored on a scale from 0 to 1.

Flight 1

Sauvignon Blanc 2005, Marlborough, Kim Crawford ($17.15) 13% alc.

Textbook New Zealand sauvignon blanc. Explosive nose of passion fruit, melon, jalapeno and a squirt of cat pee. Zesty upfront fruit, zingy acidity and a limesicle finish. Fresca for adults? Sure but so what? 1

Sauvignon Blanc 2004, Marlborough, Jackson Estate ($20.00) 13% alc.

Grassier and greener, the fruit tending to kiwi and gooseberry. Crisp, minerally, refreshing. 1

Fumé Blanc 2003, Dry Creek Valley, Lake Sonoma Winery ($22.35) 13.5% alc.

Initial volatile acidity. Reticent nose, more minerals than fruit. Totally dry, mouthfilling, sharp and grapefruity with a chalky finish. Turned watery and hot as it breathed and warmed. 0

Menetou-Salon 2004, Morogues, Domaine Henry Pellé ($23.00) 12.5% alc.

Delicate nose: white flowers, citrus, hint of chile. Dry, light but flavourful, a tracery of grapefruit and minerals, a taut balance of fruit and acidity, a lingering sourness that draws you back for another sip. 1

Even served double blind, the two Marlborough wines formed an obvious pair. To my surprise, the Fumé Blanc was stylistically closer to the Loire than New Zealand. The Kim Crawford was the crowd pleaser. Pure and elegant, the Menetou-Salon was in a class by itself; just thinking about it sets my mouth watering.

Flight 2

Touraine 2004, Domaine de La Charmoise ($16.95) 11.5% alc.

The bottle at the tasting was mildly corked; this note is based on another bottle purchased the next day. Tart, supple and refreshing, a puckery gush of red berries and slate. Nothing profound, just pure, unadulterated fun. Serve chilled. 1

Beaujolais-villages 2004, Combe aux Jacques, Louis Jadot ($17.60) 12.5% alc.

Pale red, by far the lightest coloured of the flight. Peony, poppy seed, hint of humus. Minerally finish. Honest but one-dimensional, a wallflower. 0

Juliénas 2002, Domaine du Clos du Fief, Michel Tête ($20.95)

Strawberry and black raspberry, irises and stones. Rich, juicy and layered with a long tartish finish. Fabulous wine with years of life ahead of it. 1

Juliénas 2003, Domaine du Clos du Fief, Michel Tête ($22.85) 13% alc.

Darker and less brilliant than the 2002. Bit of funk on the nose but mainly boiled red fruit candy. Dense but flat with jammy/stewed fruit and a slightly burned-tasting finish. 0

The Charmoise, the very model of what the French call a vin plaisir, will make an ideal summer sipper. The Jadot was a disappointment, especially for those who had tasted the house’s knockout 2002 Château des Jacques. As hoped, the two Juliénas illustrated the difference between the vintages and the deleterious effects of 2003’s heat and drought. While Tête’s is the best of the ten or so 2003 Beaujolais I’ve tasted, it couldn’t hold a candle to the 2002. A few tasters preferred the 2003, however.

Flight 3

Primitivo di Manduria 2001, Terrarossa Pichierri, Vinicola Savese ($22.95) 14% alc.

Overpowering nose: dried herbs and rosehips, sawed wood, sweaty horse, humidor. Round, fluid, tasting of plum, burnt rubber and herbs. Not remarkably structured or long. 0

Lytton Springs Vineyard 2002, Ridge ($51) 14.4% alc.

75% zinfandel, 20% petite sirah, 5% carignan. Rich, mellow, broad, layered and long, with great texture and presence. Oak held in check. A bit tight; decant if drinking now or wait four or five years. Classy wine. 1

The Holy Trinity 2001, Barossa, Grant Burge Wines ($30.50) 14.3% alc.

39% grenache, 35% shiraz, 26% mourvedre. Rich fruit tending to plum with some cocoa creeping in. Medium weight with a fluid texture and slightly cloying sweetness. Smooth, easy to drink if a bit simple. 1

Minervois 2003, Le Régal du Loup, Domaine du Loup Blanc ($21.55) 13.5% alc.

The flagship of a winery owned by the owners of Montreal bistro Continental. 76% carignan, 12% grenache, 12% cinsault. Strange nose of dark fruit, flowers and liverwurst. Disjointed and rough on the palate. 0

No one tasting the primitivo would have guessed its zinfandel connection. The Minervois had got rave reviews from some members of the local wine media; either our bottle was off or the media are ethically challenged. The Holy Trinity was a surprise, both lighter and better balanced than I was expecting; it would be interesting to taste a bottle in seven or eight years. The Lytton Springs was irresistible, more subdued than many recent vintages and no worse for it; too bad about the price.

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Unfortunately, I can't seem to find my notes from that evening, so I will have to limit my comments to a few major points.

From the first flight, I was not particularly impressed with the Kim Crawford. Perhaps, this is just my bias as sauvignon blanc is not a favourite of mine - as I tend to lean more towards german varietals. Nonetheless, I did appreciate that the Menetou-Salon could be paired very well with seafood and especially shellfish.

From the second flight, the Juliénas 2002 was a revelation for me and the highlight of the night. It was truly fabulous and very well structured. For me, it showed that one can achieve a wonderful complexity of flavours without the result being muddied or overpowering. I will definately be watching what Michel Tête comes out with in the next few years.

I was one of the people who liked the Primitivo di Manduria from the third flight. Though, perhaps it is more accurate to say that I was intrigued. Intrigued by the interplay of the earthiness of the nose and peppery spicyness present in the mouth. Yes, it is a bit ragged around the edges, but that made it kind of exciting. I did enjoy the Lytton Springs, but not at that price.

[carswell]

Great to have your feedback, thomasein!

From the first flight, I was not particularly impressed with the Kim Crawford. Perhaps, this is just my bias as sauvignon blanc is not a favourite of mine - as I tend to lean more towards german varietals. Nonetheless, I did appreciate that the Menetou-Salon could be paired very well with seafood and especially shellfish.

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While I don't consider myself a big SB fan, I have to say this tasting had me questioning whether it wasn't time for a reassessment. To my surprise, in the days after the event my palate was haunted by the wines' clean, pungent, refreshing flavours. I actually craved another taste. The NZ wines are, without a doubt, industrial and geared to a pretty low common denominator; still, I find their exuberence hard to resist. Though not a knock-your-socks-off kind of wine, the Menetou was perfect in its be-all-you-can-be way. Have consumed a couple of bottles since and, yes, it pairs well with seafood. But it also makes a delicious aperitif.

I will definately be watching what Michel Tête comes out with in the next few years.

The 2004 vintage is said to be classic and 2005 stellar. Let's hope the prices stay more or less put.

I was one of the people who liked the Primitivo di Manduria from the third flight. Though, perhaps it is more accurate to say that I was intrigued.  Intrigued by the interplay of the earthiness of the nose and peppery spicyness present in the mouth. Yes, it is a bit ragged around the edges, but that made it kind of exciting.

You weren't alone; several who attended have since told me they found it wow-worthy. I didn't dislike it so much as find it disconcerting (it was nothing like the zin ringer I'd been hoping for). I also wonder how it would fare at table. But character it had in spades.

Edited February 1, 2006 by carswell (log)

[thomasein]

Great to have your feedback, thomasein!

I will definately be watching what Michel Tête comes out with in the next few years.

The 2004 vintage is said to be classic and 2005 stellar. Let's hope the prices stay more or less put.

I was one of the people who liked the Primitivo di Manduria from the third flight. Though, perhaps it is more accurate to say that I was intrigued.  Intrigued by the interplay of the earthiness of the nose and peppery spicyness present in the mouth. Yes, it is a bit ragged around the edges, but that made it kind of exciting.

You weren't alone; several who attended have since told me they found it wow-worthy. I didn't dislike it so much as find it disconcerting (it was nothing like the zin ringer I'd been hoping for). I also wonder how it would fare at table. But character it had in spades.

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Actually, when I said that I will be watching out for the Julienas Michel Tête it is perhaps better to say that I am obsessed with trying to find the 2002. After many fruitless searches I have given up and probably content myself with waiting for the 2004 and 2005 to arrive. I can't wait.

[grill-it]

Heya,

Just stumbled onto this thread...

How does one go about finding such SAQ wine tastings? I'm no longer in the biz - but I do love to eat (and of course, I enjoy my wine ) It seems I'm always a few steps behind whenever there are some interesting nouveautés...

thanks in advance

[carswell]

How does one go about finding such SAQ wine tastings?

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One checks one's PM inbox.