Goodies

[Florida Jim]

2003 Bruno Giacosa, Nebbiolo D’Alba Valmaggiore di Vezza D’Alba:

More chocolate on the nose than I am used to with this bottling with red fruit and spice; medium body with flavors that follow the nose, fleshy, bright acidity and substantial grip, good concentration and balance; very long, somewhat drying finish. Showing quite young but this is a gutsy, viscous, 14% alcohol wine and, IMO, will be a terrific bottle given sufficient time in the cellar. Everything is there; fruit, structure, balance; all, clearly marked by the vintage but still having excellent potential.

After about nine hours in the decanter, it was much more classic, ripe nebbiolo with dusty rose accents and deep cherry fruit. ‘Quite a wine.

However, the price for this has doubled since last vintage. The whole Giacosa line has followed suit and it is disheartening to think that this will soon be beyond my price range.

Ah well, the way of the world . . .

1996 Pertinace, Langhe:

70% nebbiolo, 15% barbera, 15% cabernet sauvignon; shows some warm brick and floral scents on its nebbiolo fruit nose; nice integration and grip in the mouth with flavors that are mostly nebbiolo but have a definite cabernet streak; and a long, smooth finish. Very slight bricking in the glass gives hint of its decade in bottle and the balance indicates it will last awhile. But very good now with black bean chili.

Truffle dinner with friends:

Truffled croquet, as a starter.

With seared scallops and crab cakes:

2001 Didier Dagueneau, Pouilly-Fume Silex:

A bit of perm solution on nose along with the expected citrus and mineral tones; but none of that perm stuff on the palate, deep citrus flavors, concentrated, viscous and intense; long, clean finish. Youngish and the nose is a bit odd but the wine sang with the seafood and was delightful overall.

With white truffle risotto:

1996 Dominique Laurent, Auxey-Duresses Premier Cru Hospices de Beaune, Cuvée Boillot:

Decanted three hours and, when served, one of the few ’96’s I’ve had that was at peak; ethereal aromatics; rich but focused in the mouth with great fruit and mushroom flavors and a very long, seamless finish. I usually have no use for Laurent’s wines, but this could turn me around. Better still, a classic pairing that lived up to its billing.

With chicken with white truffles:

1995 Gaja, Costa Russi:

Opened and immediately poured, which was a mistake as this needs another decade in the cellar or many hours in the decanter; slightly musty on opening but that blew off to bacon, cabernet and red fruit aromas (nothing floral); very bright acids made me think sangiovese at first but then some of the nebbiolo/cabernet fruit came ‘round, powerful, no sign of overt wood and well concentrated; long, fairly integrated finish.

I don’t taste a lot of Gaja’s wines but, in every instance, I get the distinct impression that their drinking window is measured in minutes. This “younged up” in the glass and never gave full measure. Nonetheless, it was a well balanced and well flavored wine that I will be happy to drink somebody else’s bottles of – no chance I’ll ever buy one.

Best, Jim