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Excess


Florida Jim

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The following is a list of wines tasted over a recent weekend. I did not take individual notes but if anyone has questions, I will probably retain my impressions for a couple days so ask soon. Some wines, however, deserve brief comments.

Wednesday:

1983 Bouchard et Fils Beaujolais Villages

2000 Capcanes Cabrida

1993 Noel Verset Cornas

1965 Krohn Colheita Porto, alc 21.5%

The joys of 22 year old Beaujolais are fleeting but not to be missed; for about twenty minutes, it was something.

Thursday:

1999 Nigl Sauvignon Blanc, alc 12.5%

1998 Valentini Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, alc 12.5%

1999 Max Ferdinand Richter Riesling Brut Mulheimer Sonnenlay, alc 12%

(sparkling)

1992 Alain Voge Cornas Vielles Vignes, alc 12.5%

1995 Mommesin Clos de Tart, alc 13.5%

1999 E. Guigal Lieu Dit Saint Joseph, alc 13%

2000 Edmond Vatan Sancerre Pinot Rouge, alc 12.5%

2001 Domaine Durieu Chateauneuf du Pape, alc 14.5%

Nigl’s sauvignon might bring me back to the variety; combining the gassy, citrus and melon aspects of the grape in a fresh and juicy package with good structure and complexity.

My first Valentini but not my last; idiosyncratic and right up my alley.

The Clos de Tart had a magical nose and Voge VV was about as good as Cornas gets.

Friday:

1995 Markko Reserve Chadonnay Conneaut Ohio, alc 11%

2001 Les Brugueres La Conreria d’Scala Dei (Priorat) alc 14%

2003 Domaine Labbe Marc et Roger Abymes Vin de Savoie, alc 11%

2002 Bruno Giacosa Roero Arneis

1988 Clemente e Roberto Franceschi Il Poggione Brunello de Montalcino, alc 13.5%

1997 Argiolas Turriga Isola dei Nuraghi, alc 12.5%

1994 Argiolas Turriga Isola dei Nuraghi

2001 Jorge Noble Moreira Poeira, alc 13% (Portugal)

1995 Seghesio La Villa Barolo, alc 13.9%’

1996 Castello Banfi Summus, alc 13%

1999 Colli Orientali de Fruli, Petrussa, alc 13%

1997 Russiz Superiore Collio Russo Riserva degli Orzoni, alc 13.5%

1990 Tenuta Caretta Barolo, alc 13.5%

2001 Cantina Sociale Vermintino di Gallina Piras, alc 12%

1999 Monchiero Rocche Barolo, alc 14%

1993 Villa Caffagio Cortaccio, alc 13%

2004 Masi Masiano Pinot Grigio and Verdizzo, alc 13%

1992 Santa Cruz Mountains Vineyard, Duriff, alc 12.5%

(84% Duriff (petite syrah), 8% Merlot, 8% Chardonnay)

2002 Ghislane Barthod Bourgogne, Les Bons Batons, alc 12.5%

1998 Chapoutier Vin de Paille, alc 15%

2001 Anselmi I Capitelli, alc 12.5%

1997 Bussola Amarone della Valpollicella Classico TB, alc 16%

I would be happy to drink the ’88 Brunello any time; wonderfully feminine and balanced.

Saturday:

1996 Michel Gendrier Cour Cheverny Cuvee Francois 1er Romartin VV, alc 12%

1996 Franz Hirtzberger Singerriedel Smaragd, alc 13%

1991 Dunn Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon, alc 13%

1989 Orion in magnum, alc 13.4% (corked)

1989 Michel Ogier Cote Rotie, alc 12%

1999 Domaine Raveneau Montee de Tonnere Chablis, alc 13%

1991 Domaine Alain Graillot Crozes Hermitage, alc 12.5% (corked)

1999 Eric Texier Hermitage, alc 13%

1995 Bollinger Ay Rouge La Cote aux Enfants Coteaux Champenois, (still red wine), alc 11.5%

1995 Jean & Jean-Louis Trapet Chambertin, alc 13.5%

1996 Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Rouge, alc 13%

1988 Cos d’Estournal, 13% alc 13%

1988 Leoville las Cases, alc 13%

1989 Joseph Drouhin Clos de la Roche, alc 13%

2004 Selene Hyde Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, alc 14%

2001 Gundlach Bundshu Cabernet Sauvignon Rhinefarm Ranch

1998 Domaine Pegau Cuvee Lawrence, alc 14.5%

2001 Chateau Fortia Cuvee du Baron Chateauneuf du Pape, alc 14.%

2004 Weingut Rosenau Rosenauer Sauvignon Blanc, (Switzerland), alc 12.1%

2000 Siduri Arbre Vert Pinot Noir, alc 13.8%

1989 Aigle Blanc, Prince Ponsatowski, Vin de Tris, alc 12%

1997 Sean Thackery Orion Old Vines, alc 13.9%

2002 Chateau de Villeneuve Samur (Blanc) , alc 13%

1992 Vigne Arborine, Elio Altare, alc 13.5%

2002 Equilibrio (E.Q.) Syrah, Do San Antonio, Valle do Rosario, Chile, alc 14%

2001 Cayuse Callouix Vineyard Walla Walla Valley, WA, alc 14.5%

1989 Clos du Bois Marlstone (61% CS, 26% Merlot, 13% Malbec), alc 13%

1999 Panther Creek Pinot Noir Bednarik Vineyard, alc 13%

1959 Bourillon d’Orleans Vouvray Molleux, alc 12%

2001 Sessantarini Primitivo de Mandurua, old vines, alc 14.5%

1974 Ridge York Creek Petite Syrah, alc 13.9%

1927 Alvear Px Solera, alc 16%

2002 Grifo Malvesia, alc 15%

1996 Daniel Rion Vosne Romanee Les Beaune Monts, alc 13%

1995 Daniel Rion Nuits Saint Georges Vielles Vignes, alc 13%

1995 Domaine Fourier Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru Vielles Vignes, alc 14%

The Cour-Cheverny was another idiosyncratic and complex wine that I enjoyed; the Singerriedel took awhile but, once open, was knocking on great and, the Dunn was really good despite being opened about twenty years too early. The 96 Chave is close to perfect now, the Bollinger still wine was a delight, and the Fourier was surprisingly quiet. The Malvesia was charming.

Sunday:

1995 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc, 1lc 13%

1996 Clos Marie Les Glorieuses, Pic Saint Loup, alc 14%

1995 Michel Ogier Cote-Rotie, alc 12%

1996 Torii-Mor, White Rose Vineyard Pinot Noir, alc 13%

1998 Araujo Eisele Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, alc 13.8%

1965 Krohn Colheita Porto, alc 21.5% (Bottled in 2003)

1994 Churchill Porto, Vintage Port, alc 20%

2001 Epiphany Revelation Red Wine, alc 16.9%

1998 Vincent Arroyo Greenwood Ranch Petite Sirah, alc 14.%

1998 Sean Thackery Orion Old Vines, alc 14.3%

The Torii-Mor was truly complex and delicious, the Chave Blanc sang once aired out, and, the Ogier was better than mother’s milk. A small forest was sacrificed for the Araujo and Arroyo; blah.

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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Your opinions on

1992 Alain Voge Cornas Vielles Vignes -

1999 Domaine Raveneau Montee de Tonnere Chablis - consisitent with your previous notes?

1996 Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Rouge - how close?

1927 Alvear Px Solera - I just purchased a case and find it a bargain but sweet (almost cloying) by itself

1998 Domaine Pegau Cuvee Lawrence?

1997-98 Sean Thackery?

thank you, Jim

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I'm curious about these:

1992 Santa Cruz Mountains Vineyard, Duriff, alc 12.5%

(84% Duriff (petite syrah), 8% Merlot, 8% Chardonnay)

2000 Siduri Arbre Vert Pinot Noir, alc 13.8%

1997 Sean Thackery Orion Old Vines, alc 13.9%

and how was the Ohio chardonnay?

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Mary Baker

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Mary and Gordon,

1992 Alain Voge Cornas Vielles Vignes -

- as good as it gets. I always find Cornas distinctive on both the nose and palate but sometimes that character can obscure or detract from the fruit; this wine had both while still being balanced and complex. It did not fall off even a little over the hour or so it was open and was ready from the moment the cork was pulled. It may go longer in the cellar but I don't see the need. Killer wine.

1999 Domaine Raveneau Montee de Tonnere Chablis - consisitent with your previous notes?

-thinner than previous but still a fine rendition of Chablis; drink now.

1996 Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Rouge - how close?

-As good as it was, I will have a tough time keeping my hands of the bottles I have. But I have a predeliction to drinking Chave rouge younger than many people I know - I base that upon drinking a few older ones and finding them less pleasing to my palate than newer versions. Hence, you may want to adjust any assessment accordingly.

1927 Alvear Px Solera - I just purchased a case and find it a bargain but sweet (almost cloying) by itself

-Agreed. Not something I want any more of as, even with cheese, I thought it cloying.

1998 Domaine Pegau Cuvee Lawrence?

At first I thought it was California syrah (say Lagier Meredith or similar mountain producer) with its chocolate texture and big fruit. But it became somewhat more refined with time (relatively speaking, it is immensely concentrated). Not a wine I would pay the price for but a wine of considerable impression.

1997-98 Sean Thackery?

-I don't think I have had a single Orion that was ready to drink save the 1989 (notice the corked mag. of '89? 'Shame.) And frankly, I am not a fan of the style until it has considerable age and soaks up the wood. These were not my favs. but certainly were enjoyed by the majority.

1992 Santa Cruz Mountains Vineyard, Duriff, alc 12.5%

(84% Duriff (petite syrah), 8% Merlot, 8% Chardonnay)

-Odd, tannic, disjointed but not without merit. A curiosity; no more.

2000 Siduri Arbre Vert Pinot Noir, alc 13.8%

-Maybe the best Siduri pinot ever and certainly the best from Oregon. But then, its only 13.8% alcohol so Adam wouldn't like it :) I thought it excellent.

1997 Sean Thackery Orion Old Vines, alc 13.9%

-as above

and how was the Ohio chardonnay?

Clean, unoaked, reasonably crisp and otherwise, forgettable (although, it gives me reason to hope).

Best, Jim

www.CowanCellars.com

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