WTN: Montevetrano and Campogiovanni

[Brad Ballinger]

Dinner with friends last night. It was supposed to be out at a Campania-themed restaurant, but the place is closed on Sundays and we grilled steaks and crab legs instead.

1998 Montevetrano, Colli di Salerno Rosso IGT. 60% caberent sauvignon, 30% merlot, 10% aglianico. Decanted for two hours. Some bricking at the rim of the glass. Forthcoming nose of leather, cedar, tobacco, cassis, light oak. Soft in the mouth but not without backbone. Texture was a little chewy, and the flavors were of blackcurrant, spice, coffee, dried cherries. Tannins were juicy and fairly softened. Turned a bit puckery on the finish. Overall, a nice companion to the steak. I don't think the wine needs much more time.

1995 San Felice Campogiovanni, Brunello di Montalcino. Decanted three hours, which at its current stage of development is the minimum amount of time I'd recommend. Aged in 90hl Slavonian oak casks for 36 months. Lovely nose of graphite, menthol, ripe cherry, chocolate, and black cherry. Juicy and mouthfilling from the beginning of the first sip. There is ripe fruit, ripe tannin, an orchestra of secondary elements. Very nice balance. Finshes with a flurry of fruit and mineral without any abrupt shut-off. And even better match with the steaks. Needs another five years to peak IMO.