La Tupina

[Mark Sommelier]

Just a quick word to say that I had 2 utterly delicious meals at La Tupina in Bordeaux last week. It had been heartily recommended to me by several people and it did not disappoint. This is the place for hearty Southwest fare served in a quaint and sort of rustic setting. The service was extremely friendly (it helps to show up with some vignerons ). The highlights were the foie gras dishes - both oeuf cocotte with foie gras and the bloc de foie gras, the delicious and tender entrecote and the amazingly flavorful poulet roti. The winelist has some gems, but only includes wines from Bordeaux and some from the Rhone. Prices in Bordeaux are a fraction of those in Paris, I should add.

[ctgm]

Last time I went there I had the duck cooked in its own fat, which I soaked up with the bread provided. i wouldn't recommend this as I was very ill the next day.

[PS]

I was there in the height of summer last year and got the impression it would be an ideal place on a winter's evening. Don't get me wrong - I did enjoy my meal there, but I think the massive cooking range and all the roast meats it can provide would be best appreciated on a colder day than the August scorcher I experienced.

[Mark Sommelier]

I was there in the height of summer last year and got the impression it would be an ideal place on a winter's evening. Don't get me wrong - I did enjoy my meal there, but I think the massive cooking range and all the roast meats it can provide would be best appreciated on a colder day than the August scorcher I experienced.

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PS,

That's very true. This is not food for the meek. The weather in Bordeaux last week was perfect- 75° every day with no humidity or clouds. Evening cooled off into the 60's. I didn't find the food oppressive, but I can see your point about eating there in the winter. Luckily, I'm going back in January.

[PS]

I'd love to be going back in January! If I can only persuade an airline to start a direct flight from Edinburgh to Bordeaux...

Wish I'd tried the entrecote when I was there as well.

[docsconz]

Mark, what wines did you have there? Any gems to bring back

[TomV]

LaTupina is just incredible. My wife and I ate there in February. They started us off with a few pieces of pig instestine hot off the fire. Hard to describe like chewy bacon but crispier. Then we had some little appetizers which were good, but overshadowed by the revalation of the amuse.

For an appetizer, I had the foie gras with grape sauce. This was the most perfect expression of foie gras I've ever had. The texture, sweetness and acidity of the grape sauce complemented and contrasted with the silky sweet foie gras. Another option was an entire lobe of foie gras, but that just seemed excessive.

For an entree, I had roast chicken. This was very good and came with fries cooked in duck fat, which were also quite tasty. My wife had tournedos roissini, which was a major splurge at 65E. IT was worth every penny. The steak was a filet two inches thick. It was crust on the outside and nice and pink inside. The true revalation was the sauce which contained truffles, foie gras and veal stock. It was just heaven on a plate. I'm glad I ordered the chicken because she couldn't finish her entree. I was able to enjoy what was left.

We actually ate again at LaTupina on the same 6 day trip. For me, that's major praise. It was just so good. One reason we went back was to get laprey bordelaise. It was almost like eating braised lamb, but fish. This is a traditional local preparation that includes blood of the eel. I had to try it, because it was so rustic. How many chances do you get t oeat lamprey anyway? I started with a nice pig intestine salad, which was the same as the amuse I started with on our first visit.

In short, LaTupina is one of those restaurants that I will always remember. I just wish it was closer to home so I could eat there more often.

Edited July 28, 2005 by TomV (log)

[Mark Sommelier]

Mark, what wines did you have there? Any gems to bring back

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John,

On the first visit there were 10 of us at the table, so there were plenty of bottles of red Bordeaux flying around. 2002 Leoville Poyferré was particularly delicious. The reason for the trip was tasting and scoring wines for Bordeaux-New York magazine, and after tasting close to 200 wines, I discovered several humble Medoc and Haut-Medoc wines that were stunning in quality and flavor, my favorite being 2002 Rollan de By. I'm making arrangements for one of my importer friends to ship me some cases.

[Bux]

Mark, what wines did you have there? Any gems to bring back

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. . . my favorite being 2002 Rollan de By. I'm making arrangements for one of my importer friends to ship me some cases.

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Rollan de By, at least in previous years has been available in New York. I really don't know the comparative pricing between NY and France, but a previous vintage was once recommended to us by a NY sommelier to serve to a large group of people. It was a special occasion and a much larger group than I normally care to wine and dine, but also a group that included some fine taste buds I didn't want to offend.

[Mark Sommelier]

Mark, what wines did you have there? Any gems to bring back

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. . . my favorite being 2002 Rollan de By. I'm making arrangements for one of my importer friends to ship me some cases.

←

Rollan de By, at least in previous years has been available in New York. I really don't know the comparative pricing between NY and France, but a previous vintage was once recommended to us by a NY sommelier to serve to a large group of people. It was a special occasion and a much larger group than I normally care to wine and dine, but also a group that included some fine taste buds I didn't want to offend.

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Rollan de By was 14 Euros at the source in Bordeaux. I imagine that after importing fees it will still be under $30 in the US. The '02 and '03 were stunning wines.

[docsconz]

Mark, what wines did you have there? Any gems to bring back

←

. . . my favorite being 2002 Rollan de By. I'm making arrangements for one of my importer friends to ship me some cases.

←

Rollan de By, at least in previous years has been available in New York. I really don't know the comparative pricing between NY and France, but a previous vintage was once recommended to us by a NY sommelier to serve to a large group of people. It was a special occasion and a much larger group than I normally care to wine and dine, but also a group that included some fine taste buds I didn't want to offend.

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Rollan de By was 14 Euros at the source in Bordeaux. I imagine that after importing fees it will still be under $30 in the US. The '02 and '03 were stunning wines.

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I will have to keep an eye out for this. What is the wine like stylistically? Is it international or more traditional? In either case, if you liked it that much, I have no doubt it is excellent.

[Mark Sommelier]

I will have to keep an eye out for this. What is the wine like stylistically? Is it international or more traditional? In either case, if you liked it that much, I have no doubt it is excellent.

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John,

The wine had an opulent bouquet and a dense and delicious mouthfeel. I wouldn't classify it as a complete "international" style wine, just several notches up from what you expect from a humble Haut-Medoc wine. Perhaps a solid third to second growth Bordeaux. Rollan de By is a wine to keep your eyes on, as well as the sister chateau, Haut Condissas. The 2002 were both delicious and well structured wines. The 2003 are typical of the vintage and somewhat richer. 2 wines and vintages to watch.

[docsconz]

Thanks, Mark, I will look out for them. Do you know who the importer is?